if you are thinking about yonaka seats
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 122
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From: Auburn, ME
Car: "Nina" 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: TPI 305 V8
Transmission: T-5
if you are thinking about yonaka seats
So I just received a set of black vinyl Yonaka Ronin racing seats and they look pretty good. Only problem is the brackets dont fit and the seats are a bit too wide to clear the seat belt mechanisms located by the plastic step panels. Yes, I did expect this even though they are supposedly designed to "fit 95% of all vehicles". Basically the distance between the floor bolts are 13.5" all around, the aftermarket brackets are 11 inches. Plus when mounted to the seats the brackets are 16 inches apart. Anyways I think there is a wicked simple solution to getting these seats (or similar aftermarket seats) to fit without modding your floorboards.
Here's my idea:
1.) Take apart your original seat brackets and keep only the bottom rail parts, mount these to your floor.
2.) Cut 2 lengths of flatstock steel of approx. 17". Drill bolt holes on both ends of each piece and mount the aftermarket brackets to these.
3.) Mount the new aftermarket bracket "assembly" to your seats and put them in the car on top of the brackets. When they clear everything and are in a comfortable position to you, vicegrip the flatstock part of the "assembly" to the original seat brackets.
4.) Demount the original brackets from the floor and take everything out, all held in place with the vicegrips.
5.) Mark where the flatstock and the original rails meet and weld, it would be advisable just to tack weld at first so you can check once more if the seats will align right in the car and then do a final weld.
6.) Just cleanup and some beauty work now. Round the edges of the flatstock and paint everything with black (or whatever color your interior is)
Here's my idea:
1.) Take apart your original seat brackets and keep only the bottom rail parts, mount these to your floor.
2.) Cut 2 lengths of flatstock steel of approx. 17". Drill bolt holes on both ends of each piece and mount the aftermarket brackets to these.
3.) Mount the new aftermarket bracket "assembly" to your seats and put them in the car on top of the brackets. When they clear everything and are in a comfortable position to you, vicegrip the flatstock part of the "assembly" to the original seat brackets.
4.) Demount the original brackets from the floor and take everything out, all held in place with the vicegrips.
5.) Mark where the flatstock and the original rails meet and weld, it would be advisable just to tack weld at first so you can check once more if the seats will align right in the car and then do a final weld.
6.) Just cleanup and some beauty work now. Round the edges of the flatstock and paint everything with black (or whatever color your interior is)
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Auburn, ME
Car: "Nina" 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: TPI 305 V8
Transmission: T-5
Re: if you are thinking about yonaka seats
yeah, so this doesn't work for numerous reasons. I just wasted about $30 on flat stock that can't be returned because I already drilled it!
Easiest way seems to be to mount new floor bolts.
Easiest way seems to be to mount new floor bolts. Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Nebraska
Car: 1989 Formula
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 -> 3.27 9 Bolt
Re: if you are thinking about yonaka seats
Just curious, but were the brackets you made too tall or wide or what? I've been wanting those same seats for a while now and was planning on doing the same exact thing as far as using the stock sliders but wasn't sure if they'd end up way too tall after I made them, since that seems to be the biggest problem with mounting aftermarket seats.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Waukesha, WI
Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: LT1 200cc Ai heads and cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10:1 Zexel Torsen
Re: if you are thinking about yonaka seats
I'm reviving this one to see if you found a usable solution. I have a set of the same seats back at home waiting to be put into my car.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 322
From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
Re: if you are thinking about yonaka seats
i also am curious as to how it worked out. i am going to be ordering the yonaka samurai seats within the next few days.. if my measurments are correct.. i think the samurai style seats WILL fit in the car with no clerance issues.. but i will have to weld up custom brackets to mount the new seats to the stock floor mount bolts.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Waukesha, WI
Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: LT1 200cc Ai heads and cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10:1 Zexel Torsen
Re: if you are thinking about yonaka seats
These seat brackets work great for mounting the Yonaka seats. The Yonaka seats are reboxed under a lot of different names, these will fit any of them that cross over.
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/store/...roducts_id=210
I installed them both with and without the slider rails. without the rails the seats sit a little too far back for me and I am 5'9". They had to be installed with the 4th gen seat belts because of the bulky lower part of the factory set.
Here are some pics of how the parts look installed.
I bought 8mm bolts with flanges that were 20mm long and matching lock nuts. I then ground down the sides using a dremel, so that they would fit into the rails and not spin. I used the thick washers that came with the kit on those bolts too. It worked out great.
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/store/...roducts_id=210
I installed them both with and without the slider rails. without the rails the seats sit a little too far back for me and I am 5'9". They had to be installed with the 4th gen seat belts because of the bulky lower part of the factory set.
Here are some pics of how the parts look installed.
I bought 8mm bolts with flanges that were 20mm long and matching lock nuts. I then ground down the sides using a dremel, so that they would fit into the rails and not spin. I used the thick washers that came with the kit on those bolts too. It worked out great.
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