thanks for the link! i'd like to find some info on a setup for a stock suspension situation though.

i think that a 10pt that's good to 8.50 will probably do me just fine for a long long time as the car only runs upper 10's now. but any info i can get that will allow me to set the car up so that all i had to do was add some more tubes later to have an SFI chassis that'd be really cool.

 

your right a 10point will do you just fine. and as for that last link i just looked into my spec catalog and that was a 25.2. A 25.5 uses the factory floor board that can be only slightly mod'd for tru frame connecters. but take my word if your going to go 10 point you might as well go 12 and really stiffin the car up. then run BMR or spahn stuff for you suspension.

 

I will run the Firebird at the dragstrip occasionally, but nothing competetive. I have a vette for drag racing. The Bird is relegated to road courses, autocrosses, and cruise-ins.

Though tracking the bird this year has been a little heart breaking when it comes to the paint.



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Dave that is a sharp car.

 

Thanks, it has been a continual work in progress since 2000, when I bought it. Not much left of the orginal car except for some glass and sheet metal. It gives me a little pride and a chuckle when people ask if anything has been done to it.

I was hoping those PMD seats would be awsome for racing. I had them covered in baseball glove leather and everything. But they are to tall and my helmet hits the roof. I think I am going to have to get a set of 4th gen camaro seats for racing. That is also why I want a bar because in long sweepers I find myself using the shifter to keep me in the seat. I think a 5 point harness would do much better :-)

 

here's a better link for you sfi 25.5 $35 buys the guid lines. that what i had to do 4 years ago. if you to this be sure to check for revisions every year

http://www.sfifoundation.com/drag.html

 

your right dave. in your case a would go with a 8 point and add the cross bar behind the seat so you can tie your belt in. or just but belt that tie into the floor but i never trusted those

 

Here was the problem I was speaking of. Look how close my head is to the headliner.

 

Fiero seat tracks on the driver's side will give you an inch or more....

 

1meanZ is right after some research i found a couple guys doing this. the only other way is to modify the foor board in such a way to resess the brackets into the floor more. its not really hard its just a fact of how much to you want to modify the car.

 

Thanks for the ideas guys I did not even think of those.

 

i used 4th gen corbeau seat tracks instead of 3rd gen ones and it lowered my seats .75 inch at least I'd imagine on my corbeaus

 

Here is mine. 95% street car. I want to redo the cage now that I've driven it 20,000 miles. I cant find the pic of my door bars..

 

I've had them on my car for 5 years now. I'm 6"4' and couldn't wear a helmet with the T-tops in. My helmet actually stuck up above the windshield, I have pix at autocross events of it. After the seat track swap, I can get my fingers between my helmet and the bottom of the t-tops.

 

Red406, thats the best cage I've seen, wish i wouldve seen it before i did mine!!

 

I think you are talking about mw66nova's pictures.

 

This is the type of roll cage you need to meet most specs for track racings. must be 6pt and attached to frame not body sheet metal. Also, most tracks will req full frame connecton.

 

there is no frame in an f body. as per the rulebook, 6x6" 1/8" thick steel plate will suffice to keep the tube from pushing through the floor(sheet metal)
the track cannot require a frame connection, unless it is mandated by the rule book for the speed you run, which is going to be faster than 8.50 1/4 mile.
25.x spec for 8.49 and faster.

 

While you are partial right about the frame - F body is a uni-body, there are front and rear frames that can be connected with frame rails. The 6x6 plates are hard to locate out of the way on the driver side. Also, depending on where you run the 6x6 plates may not be acceptable.

 

I don't think the plate has to measure 6x6. Thats just how they classify them. There are plates around my car that were cut down to fit the area where they sit.

 

any pics with the side bars and arm rest.. in at the same time

 

ive got some, but i have 4th gen door panels. they really need to have a kick in them. you lose a lil too much clearance if you run them strait, IMO, but ive got wide shoulders.

 

Any place I could get a 4pt?

 

I can probably get some of that for you.

 

 

 

gorgeous justin!

 

 

Thanks so much. It has been so hard to devote any time to this car lately. I have been chisleing away at this interior for about 2 months at 11:00pm to 1:00am every other night. There's still a lot to do but I had the camera out and figured what the heck. I need to go to the J/Y and get all the missing hardware I need. I am machineing a plate for the shifter W/switches that will match the guage cluster and cage. I also need to cut the dash which is a PITA.

The carpet is new ACC and all the guages and seats are new also. I never had that stuff before.

I may switch to black leather some day but I won these seats for $48 on ebay and they were local. lol

 

only before picture I have. Seats and carpet were beat! No tach! blah

 

well i'd say you've done very well so far! i need to get the interior cleaned up in mine...it's in shambles compared to what it was on the first page of this thread, lol...a few drivetrain swaps, and a dash swap, with a whole lot of racing thrown in with little ability to give attention to the small details has let it get in bad shape. i'm going to try to do some house cleaning in it this summer i think when i'm not so tied up with classes.

oh, what steering wheel is that? i've been looking for a replacement for mine (still has the stock airbag wheel in it) and that one looks like a solid replacement.

 

Just a Grant GT from Pep boys. I think it was $79. Cant beat it. The diameter is perfect and the thickness is perfect. Its also a durable material so it doesnt get dirty and it still feels new. I reccomend it. I like the 4 spoke version also.

 

did the swing out side bars in mine.. they have the kink in them to fit the stock door arm rest..made by s&w race cars..sold by sphon..

still alot of work to do..summer is closing fast

 

you bend it up or is it a kit? looks real nice.

i am not a fan of the camaro high back seat and a 5 way harness. if you crash, you might not stay in the seat.

 

It started out as an S+W 10 point kit. He pretty much re-bent everything to tuck real tight. Notice the overhead halo is way out of the window view. I had to cut the headliner back to get it back in. The door bars were re-bent to keep the arm rest from hitting. The rear bars were bent completely different. They go into the rear well when you get them. I think there a bit drastic but he knew I wanted to put the rear seat back in.

I also like a seat with a head rest for the belts to go through but nothing was really available. I'm not set on these seats but the'll work for now. I spent all the budget on the cage and figured on doing something different later.


Also, If it makes it any safer, the belt is bolted to the tabs on the cage which are directly behind the headrest. It keeps it lined up real well.

 

check out hawksthirdgenparts.com for the corbeau inserts like my car had to keep the harness more on your shoulders.

 

Just found this thread and im putting in a cage in the future and this thread was a great help to ma in what I want to do for mine. Thanks Guys

 

sweet! yeah, i wished that this thread would have been around when i started planning mine...but it wasn't...all had to come out of my head, lol

 

How did you make it into a targa? Did you make a thread on it?

 

^^yes he did, a bazzillion years ago, under a totally different screen name if i remember correctly, lol!

 

So why am i not seeing any of the drivers seats actually ATTACHED to the rear bar like they are supposed to be? Or did that rule change?

Also after all of the reading.....My rear bars extend over and down onto the rear rails. I dont see how getting rearended is going to push my main bar onto my head!!! I would have to get hit by a H3 Hummer doing 90 to move that bar i would think.

Another find, was about the 6X6 plate, its only required on the inside if it is welded, not sandwiched like someone was getting all bent out of shape about, that only applies if your are bolting it in.

Ok, i'm done

But when we welded the rear bars on in my 92, we only tacked them on for position then tilted the whole assembly forward to do the full weld all the way around prior to standing up and fully welding in the main hoop.

 

a reclining seat does not have to be bolted in, however, a race seat (like my kirkey) must be bolted to the bar, which mine is.

 

hey bro you car is beatiful.

 

stupid question.. For the guys running back seats and interiors. I'm assuming you guys had the roll cages installed and then were able to install the seats and interior pieces?? I honestly can't picture having SOME interior pieces inside the car while putting in the cage.... The main reason why I'm asking is because I'd like to put a cage in my car but am not thrilled with the current color of the interior. It's currently got a tan interior and I'd prefer black. Also.. I came across a pic of a "trick" swing arm. I'll post a pic... I was just wondering if these are legal for circle track/NHRA???

Before I get hammered with why I want a cage..... my car won't run under 12's on the track. One day I hope it will though... If I do put a cage in I will NEVER DARE put anyone in the back seat.

 

Artic white Z how did you mount the 9" in your car???

 

hey what kind of hurst shifter is that?

 

looks like a quarter stick

 

okay thanks do you know if that will directly fit cable operated th350?

 

yes, but it's not a direct bolt on to the floor. you will need to build a bracket to bolt it to.

 

or weld some tabs.