Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Don't tell me the 4th gen lower seat plastics won't work....is that what you're saying? I DO NOT want to reuse my thirdgen switches and white velour covered plastics...the passenger side seat went in with no issues...but of course, it's a manual seat.

I just had to quit assembling the driver's side because I just discovered the new turn signal arm I had lying around for over a year isn't the right one....my existing one clearly has 3 contacts on the plug end, where the new one only has two contacts.....let me guess...the 82-84 style are different from the 85-up??

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

...

Not what I was getting at!!..

Try to re-word it---
I am wondering how the plastic covers for the power seat gets assembled.
Was asking if a pic was possible so I could put our plastics back on.
The interior plastics were in boxes & when I got the Camaro. Looks like I'm missing quite a few pieces for the driver side power seat track & rails.
I have the bolt covers, & 1 long thin plastic with screw holes in the front & back.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Ahhh...OK...You were freaking me out!!...DONT DO THAT!! I've had ENOUGH issues already!! lol

I'll take a couple pics and post up what the seats came with. The lower side plastics SEEM to be straight forward. These don't have the air lines for lumbar support, so it should be simple (famous final words)...

Haven't looked real close, but I'll be surprised if the power connectors mate up.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Looks great, I like those seats. Were those door panels from a car with manual windows?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! Good eye...yes, they were manual window door panels...but I have early Camaro emblem plugs in the crank holes....I never knew they existed till I bought them from the same guy I bought the other stuff from.

I know I never seen them before...

tylercamaro

iTrader: (1)

i had those door panels in my 85 well i still have them i love those ones.

chops1sc

I gotta get me some of those seats!! Looks great!!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks!.....but they weren't cheap, I can tell you that...

Seems the turn signal lever for a '83 isn't cheap either...it seems the 82-83 ones are different from the newer years. Mine has a 3 wire connector wire unlike the cheaper two connector ones. Anyone know where to get one?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Swap in a later year column and save the cash

Rockauto.com have anything?

Kingsobieski

I believe the turn signal levers are interchangeable on the column. My friend had a problem with his wipers after swapping out a steering column - he had to swap the stalk from his other column.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Hey!....it's just that easy right??

I found them on Fleabay for 99 bucks. Ironically, the newer style I can get for 30 bucks...figures....I'll check Rockauto just for sh*ts and giggles.

The newer ones will physically fit....well, the lever will at least. But the connector won't fit my harness for the wipers or cruise control...not that the cruise has ever worked (old vacuum type) ...but working wipers would be nice!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Welp, 99 bucks later and 2 hours (yes 2)...I now have my new turn signal lever in. I thought I'd be smart and tie a string on the connector and snake the new one back in....BUT...

Of course the old one wouldn't go through because it got caught up on the turn signal assembly inside the steering wheel. So of course, I had to remove the steering wheel, lock plate and pull all the screws out of the turn signal switch to move it enough to snake the old one out and the new one in. I had to go to Autozone to get a lock plate compressor...and man does it make removing the snap ring easier!! I don't see how I did that in the past without the tool, but I did somehow.

Now when I turn my wipers on, I don't need to shut the whole car down to get them to stop!!

Only have the DS kick panel, the piece that fits over the fuse box, the DS sill plate and DS seat to put in...then I'm DONE with the interior!!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Be sure to take some more pics once you get it all done. Any decisions on a steering wheel yet?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Awesome! Finished making my headers. They're off to be finish tig welded and coated. $750 materials, $260 tig work, couple hundred more in coating. ....ouch

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for reminding me it won't be done!

As far as steering wheel choice, I think the Grant wheel you posted would look nice, but I'm on the fence with a couple others too. Along with that, I plan to either get a real nice OEM dash.... but the prices I'm seeing those go for, I may just bite the bullet and spend a little more for the OER reproduction dash pad at Hawk's. But- With the $$ I've just spent for seats, carpet and interior panels, I'll probably let my credit card cool down a bit till I get the wheel or dash pad..

xpndbl - With over 1k in just headers alone, I feel better about my little project...Thanks! Will you showing them off at the fest?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Interior is finally ALL IN !!

Its the first time the interior has all been put together literally in 10 plus years!! I had to dig up all the under dash panels I had packed away.

Pics Below:


I need to dig up the rear shade I bought and get that in too.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

I got a toothache looking at that sweeet interior!!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Nice Job, looks great. The black interior completes the look of the car.

tylercamaro

iTrader: (1)

excellent!

Trevmust

would using the old carpet as a template work at all? or would that be too risky?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

It wouldn't be a bad idea to use the old original carpet as a loose template just to dial in the length and width...and perhaps the console cutout. Just remember to not cut too much, and leave a little excess because if you cut it too short anywhere, you can't put it back!

For the small seat belt bolt holes and things like that, I used an awl and poked through from underneath the car.

-Thanks for the compliments guys!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Yes they're going to be done being welded tomorrow. Then off to be coated this weekend. Then back on the car for the fest. Might feel frothy and bring it open headers this time. Muahahahahaha.

FinallyGotMyZ

Looks really, really good. Congrats.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Then you must feel "Frothy" a lot...have you ever had an exhaust on it at the Fest? Haha..

If I don't get my exhaust done, maybe I'll have open shorty headers!! Talk about disturbing the peace!

On another note, I decided to actually sit in the drivers seat (car is on jack stands ATM).....and the seats seem to be higher than the originals. Do 4th gen seats sit higher??

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Yes true dual 3" with huge fullsize mufflers to quiet down the engine. Ya it'll be a lot louder this time around.

Also fourth gen seats and tracks are approximately 1" lower than 3rd gens. Could be your old seat bottoms were worn out big time.

lonestar7

iTrader: (1)

Very nice! The hard work really paid off.

Ruckusz28

iTrader: (3)

What a world of difference! Great job!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Now I'm installing a non-AC heater box...I managed to get all the AC stuff off. It's definately going to clean up the passenger side of the engine compartment!

This non-AC box came with the original motor, resistor and wiring plugs for it. Even came with DVD instructions and schematics! But I'm trying to decide on whether to just cut a bigger hole and just use my original resistor and wiring, or use the non-AC resistor and splice in the different plugs for it.

So I've been told, the non-AC motor doesn't run as fast as the AC motor...which makes sense because it's a smaller motor. SO...is it worth having all three fan speeds using my original resistor anyway? I'm opting to reuse it and cut the bigger hole in my box for it instead of splicing wires...I'm assuming I'll keep 3 speeds, but the low speed will most likely be pretty useless....what do you think?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well, I decided to just use my existing harness and not cut and splice anything new into my existing one. It came out pretty good if I say so myself. I had to cut a bigger hole in the non-AC box to accept my 3 speed resister:

I gave myself enough room to relocate a MSD box above it. I opted not to keep the hood light since I have my hood open occasionally at local shows...don't need to drain my battery. I also have the big plug I'm just hiding that used to plug into the AC receiver. If it's a constant 12V source, I wonder if I could use it to power my MSD box??

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I prefer to run msd box off a relay and its own power wire IMO

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I actually have an older MSD box installed already...it has a boost retard with the dial, but does not have multi-spark. I got another newer digital 6BTM on fleabay at a decent price, so I'm replacing the old box with this one. I never ran a separate relay with one...do you run your relay on the batt. side or the 12V "switched" wire?? Gues I don't get how you have yours wired....I just followed the diagram that came with mine.

It was a little weirder because I'm running a Mallory uni-lite distributor...I finally figured it out though without burning anything up! lol. Hopefully I'll get lucky and the new one will wire up identically as the old box, and even have the same connectors....but with my luck, it won't...

EDIT: Just ran out and did a quick check...No - of course it doesn't have the same connectors except for the retard dial.
-Xpndbl3: Did you get those sweet headers on yet??

-I still need to tow mine to the exhaust shop. Remember the issue I had with the Dyno Don's y-pipe not fitting? - Well it still don't....

Oddball

Hi,

I have not read through all of the replies yet but will shortly. I am finishing up the resto of my 86 IROC to bring the exterior back to factory color. I have the gray interior with the "deluxe" interior, but the carpet in the front area is nearly white due to sun fading and wearing out so it's time to replace the carpet.

A few months ago I scored a set of black Trans Am leather seats for $60 in a u-pull-it boneyard. They are about $600 - 800 online but if you can find them in a boneyard they are a direct bolt-in.

For me, the only problem is now I'll have black seats and a grey everything else so I am considering a complete black interior swap. I have been looking online for the plastics (you can get them from Hawks). My vision is to have the "good afternoon officer how fast did you clock me" red with a black interior.

Anyway you wanted peoples thoughts, this is mine: swap the carpets and plastics and seat belts. Install 4th gen leather (I already have 4th gen gray cloth seats). Keep everything else original.

Oddball

Ok ignore everything I said. Looks great!!!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Headers are at the coaters.

Hope you get that exhausting problem solved soon. Lol

nickyakker

iTrader: (1)

I had that Tan interior from 82, when I bought the car it was soooo sun bleached it was faded and falling apart. It had scratches all over it and you could take your finger nail and scratch a line across the plastic and have residue in your fingernail.

I sanded it down as much as I could, I painted each piece with Krylon plastic paint, wet sanded, and painted a couple times. Then I did a fine coat of Plasticoat bedliner, all in black. the bedliner gave it a fine texture and it looks awesome. I can post pics of the finish product if you guys want

tylercamaro

iTrader: (1)

you have one of the best setups currently imho. i see all the people with nice ls cars that are overly flashy, others with shiny carbd motors that have no power anything or any other functionalities besides power, and yours is just well thought out. not every creature comfort but ever plan is thoroughly though out it seems. great job bud keep it up.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Oddball - Yeah, I know how these long posts are to go through...I've been there and asked questions in which the answers were further back in the post..haha

I left my headliner gray, and I think it turned out just fine. Nothing wrong with two-tone at all IMO.

xpndbl3: Hey buddy, I hope I get it solved too!! I took a week off work, and I've been working on the car on-and-off. I could spend the entire week on it...but I have too much other crap to do around the house.

I'm putting the new type of aluminum header gaskets on it now, and I'm pretty disappointed with the fit. The headers have roundish flange ports, and my heads have square ports (Dart Iron Eagles)...so I can only really match one or the other. I had what Dyno Don recommended on it before...the Earl's round graphite insert ones.

They fit the headers great, but not the heads. Now these aluminum Percy's gaskets fit the head real well, but don't fit the headers worth a crap...I can't win!!!...thinking about just going with these new aluminum ones because I need to have the headers on it before I can get the thing towed to the shop so they can fit up a decent Y-pipe - I hope. - I have developed a strong dislike for these headers...I just hope they don't leak..that's all I can ask at this point.

nickyakker: Actually the old interior color in my car was "Sandstone Grey"...basically off-white and was always dirty looking. I did end up re-using a couple of my old panels after prepping and painting them black...it looks great! Only issue is, if you scratch them at all...well, you know.

tylercamaro: That's quite a compliment - Thanks! And although I do appreciate it, I think you give me too much credit. Just like everyone else, I really do try to think things out well...but they don't always turn out too well!!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

It's almost unreal how much better access I have to the pass side of the engine now! For the first time, I just installed my spark plugs on that side and dropped the header right in! Easily got all the bolts in and used a ratchet on the bolt nearest the firewall....Ive NEVER been able to do that before!

For those of you that have an old busted R12 AC on your car, and you don't mind going without AC...I highly recommend getting the non-AC heater box!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Match the heads, forget about the header shape. Needs to have no over hang in the port to create a hot spot. I only use aluminum or copper sprayed fel pro gaskets.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! -That's what I ended up doing. The car just got towed to the exhaust shop...I hate it when I have to trust others to work on the car...but I don't bend pipes or weld worth a d*mn, so....

I also discovered that I'm not done with my interior! I noticed my fuse box cover and small ECM cover wasn't on there yet...and when I found them after sitting for years, the fuse cover is busted and the ECM cover thing has broken tabs. Maybe Denny has those??

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

you mean the ADL port or whatever the crap its called, and ya he should have those and the fuse panel thingie. Tossed all my 3rd gen stuff out a while ago, I had both in mint shape....whoops. 7-10 more days for my header coating, not to mention building a shed so I can have room in the garage to work on it. Fun times while working 7 days a week for 3 weeks now. Booked up with business until june 22 at the moment...ouch!

RedLeader289

iTrader: (2)

Wow! love it. Those '02 seats look great too!! great work

FLWhite92RS

Great job! Looks beautiful congratulations on your finished product...

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys!

RedLeader289 - I'd rather have the T/A seats you're putting in your car! I tried to bid on a nice set of those on flea bay in new condition and got outbid…I believe those have lumbar, bolsters…the whole nine yards!

johnw999