Glad to help! my best advice to give is make sure everything stays organized and take plenty of reference pictures and notes. I took lots of pictures of the tear down so I remember how everything goes back together and put all screws belonging to one group in separate ziploc baggies (dash screws go in one bag etc) just so everything doesn't get mixed up. This may be a bit tedious but I had a notepad and wrote down what connectors plug into each other based on their wire color combinations. Good luck! It may look crazy but if you do enough research and you're prepared then it's very straightforward (so far )

 

Okay, cool. I'm just completely stopped dead right now. I can't find the wiring to make the cluster work anywhere.

I'm not sure what I need besides the harness and the various sensors...And I have no idea where I would find the whole set up!

 

Have you looked on the classifieds? I've noticed there's been quite a few full setups appearing lately. The member 6six6 is selling a harness and dash (don't know if he would want to sell the harness separate) it's missing a few sensors but the main part is all there

 

I'm considering just selling the setup I have now, a few other things from my car that I don't need, and just buying the entire setup featured on ThirdGen ranch...It's expensive, but the replacement would be so much easier.

 

I got a near complete set up and I dont want a arm and a leg like most people to. If you need one let me know. Now back to the swap

 

Just to keep you guys posted, I haven't been able to work on the swap much this week due to being tied up with work but I'll have more progress to show to all of you on the weekend. What I plan on doing next is swapping out the headlight harness and hooking up some of the sensors and I'll have plenty of pictures of it too.

 

That pesky day job always gets in the way

Thanks for keeping us updated

 

Hey everyone I'm trying to make more progress but I'm stuck on this part. How do I remove the airbox? I need to remove it so I can pull out the old harness for the analog ac unit

 

Are you talking about the harness that goes through the firewall and over to the blower fan and a/c compressor control? And also has the vacuum lines for the heater control valve and supply for the vents.

If so...you dont need to remove that box. Its a little bit of wiggling, but that whole HVAC harness will come out. You can get to the grommet behind that box, and if you arent using any of it, you could cut it... But it'll all come out without cutting. At least mine did.

J.

 

Ok...I am doing the same thing and have some questions. I have the digital dash itself, the bezels and the harness. I noticed that all digital dash cars came with the push button digital stereo and A/C. What happens if you use the stock analog head unit and A/C controls? Will they still work?
What happens if you dont have the rear taillight harness? Are there special sensors on that harness, or I guess I should ask what makes them differen? If there are sensors, I would imagine that it is looking for a certain voltage. Is there a way to trick the dash by supplying the needed voltage to whatever is "sensing" it, just so the dash doesnt display an error message?
Thanks

 

From what I saw from the last One I removed it was a different set up then I had seen from previous cars I parted out. To be honest thats what I saw but you may not need it but when I sold it i wanted to make sure the guy getting it had everything for it

 

Thanks 6. Does anyone know what will happen if you use non-digital dash components, like the non-push button a/c and stereo, headlights, water bottles, and rear light harness?

 

Headlight harness has wiring for sensors in it for the rad and washer bottle along with another one. If the tail light harness is the same then you might not have to use it at all. Dont know if you can get away with non- push button stuff but I dont see why you cant if your willing to try and make it work

 

Here's some info from another thread from a guy that swapped a digital dash into his Formula.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ns-am-gta.html

From what's being said in the linked thread, apparently there's no need to change out the wiring harness. Maybe I read it wrong...

 

This is the craziest thing I have seen in a long time. I once thought about it till I looked at a schematic. lol aftermarket digital gauges are way easier and far more accurate.

But I must say way to go trying to maintain a factory look.

 

I agree with the aftermarket gauges but if you want to keep the stock look and go say with a LS swap its the best way to go as they are already good to go without buying aftermarket stuff. plus cost is wat cheaper if your on a buget as well as autometer and so on arnt cheap for gauges. The price of 2 gauges sometimes is more costly then the entire dash swap. To each his own as I went with all autometer

 

Hey everyone, I apologize for not updating this thread as much as I would like to. It has slowed down a bit due to a combination of working two jobs and crappy weather but I'm still very determined to get this project done. I'm still working on getting the black air boxes out of the car, not only to get out the wiring harness but to also clean them because I noticed there was a little leak in the heater core so I thought I might as well replace it while I have everything out.

I've been told that the air boxes are held in by a bolt in the engine bay but have been unsuccessful in finding it, I took of a black cover that covers another radiator in hopes of finding it but no luck. This radiator is in pretty bad shape too so I thought I might as well replace it as well given the opportunity. Does any one know what this one is called? (sorry for the noob question ) after I get these done and out of the way, I'll carry on with the swap. Thanks!

 

Wow, Firechicken, dont know the answer, but what is that radiator looking thing ? Is that the heater core/radiator ... thing ? Is that a Canadian thing. I don't have one of those.

 

That's what I'm trying to figure out, it's bizarre because it's nowhere on the forum even after searching it had a black cover on it too

 

Its the AC evaporator core

 

You're right, I just found it out. I heard on another thread I have to remove the core to get to the one bolt that holds in the interior air ducting. Damn you GM

 

i dont think so. i took out the air duct in my vert with out removing it, i believe a stubby ratchet and a very flexible arm is all it takes. can any one confirm if not i'll did out the service manual later tonight and look to see if i can confim it that way. You may want to replace that one anyway, if you do you'll save yourself some skin.

 

Do you remember where the bolts are that need to be taken out to remove it are? I'm absolutely stumped

 

not at the moment
, but i also have realized that i was thinking of the top screw for the heater core cover with out removing the dash. Ill take a lol tomorrow and get back to you.

 

there shouldnt be a screw behind the box at all. Did you get the 2 screws at the bottom from inside the car? All are in the engine bay accept the few at the bottom on the inside at the bottom

 

There is one Long *** screw that goes in from the engine bay into the box inside. Its been a long time since I removed the box but after you remove the upper evaporator cover I believe it was behind the evaporator, or somewhere in that area. Its a long bolt with a big washer, prob covered in windshield ribbon sealer. I'm certain someone on here knows its exact location.

 

I did find a long grey bolt behind the evaporator that was down around the middle of the firewall, I'll have another look and see if I can find any bolts going along the seal of the windshield or something

 

The ones on the bottom that you get from the interior are all unscrewed, I only found one bolt from the engine bay behind the evaporator but that's all I found so far and it didn't seem to make it budge at all

 

Its not by the windshield. lol The black gook they usually shove in and around the gaps of the evaporator and plenum box. My bolt was covered in the gook and was hard to see at first.

 

Okay everyone I've got an update on the progress I've been making.
I have the heater core and the AC evaporator/condenser removed and have the replacements on the way.

I had another look into the engine bay and saw this one last bolt, If this one didn't work I was ready to pry the HVAC ducts off with a crowbar


and.....


Voila!

It was definitely a hallelujah moment once it finally popped out.

So then I thought I might as well completely gut the car to maximize work space and I'm getting all new interior anyway




It was nice to see no serious rust issues on the floorplan especially with it being a ttop car. There is a little bit of surface rust on the drivers side, do you think I could just sand it off, spray some red paint of the same color code and then a protecting coat overtop? I don't car about looks on the floor plan I just want to make sure the rust will be gone

 

So now for the main event: Installation
I removed the analog hvac harness and decided the digital harness would be the first thing I would install


It was a bit cramped shoving it all through the whole into the engine bay but about 15 minutes later I got it all into position and hooked up. So that's it so far, I plan on a full day of the swap tomorrow so check back for more updates!

 

Can anyone confirm the question about the wiring harnesses being different, or whether or not the push button A/C and stereo head unit need to be used, or if the analog ones will work?
Thanks!

 

The harnesses are different for sure. Weather or not you want to use it is up to you as all you would need to retain the normal cable hvac set up would be to find the power wire from the dash harness and tap that into the power for the old harness and your done

 

Personally I just deleted my A/C box rather than try to pull it out intact since previous owner had deleted the compressor but left all the fittings connected up. :/

Excited to see what comes of this. Subscribing.

 

Just realized I haven't updated this in a while but have got a lot of progress done with pictures that I will upload tomorrow. Here's what I've got done so far:

-Taillight harness installed
-Hatch wiring mostly installed
-HVAC harness installed
-Main dash harness %5 installed
-Door lock sensors installed

 

So as promised, here are some progress pictures:

I decided to start with the door lock sensors and get them out of the way, first I (obviously) removed the door panels and removed the locks that keep the door closed.


I was sent the door locks from the donor car with the sensors attached, you can see it in this picture, it's the little black nib with the wire trailing of it on the side. I decided I might as well take the sensor of the donor locks and put it on my original locks which was easy to do as it's held on by one screw


In this picture you can see I have the lock with the sensor installed on the door


Now there is a wire harness that is in the shape of a T and each side goes into the door and plugs into the harness and the body stays in the car and goes into the dash, I tried taking a picture of it but I don't know how well you can see it


This is the wiring all completed and hooked up to the door

 

After that I went for the trunk wiring, still having a little bit of trouble figuring out where it all plugs into but the taillights and side bulbs went in super easily


This is what the taillight/trunk harness looks like


Next up and probably so far the most annoying to do: the headlight harness. The main reason I say it's annoying is because you have to dissemble both headlights, the tray under the hood where the hood latch is and try and pull the harness out under a lip parallel with the radiator. I didn't take too many pictures of this process due to me just wanting to get it over and done with but I did take some.

 

This is the headlight harness


Here is halfway through the installation, on the drivers side you have to hook up the horns and a weird plug by the motor and the dimmer wire which actually comes through a separate hole in the firewall


You'll see this extra cable, this is the low coolant sensor wire that plugs into a spade terminal on the radiator, because my gta is an 89 it didn't come with the spade terminal but rather a plug and when I popped it off coolant started flowing out so be careful at that part, if you have the sensor, it plugs into that hole


Sporting the terminator look


This is the digital dash washer bottle, you can see the extra sensor terminal there, there will be a cable on the headlight housing that plugs straight into it

 

Looks like your making good progess man

 

This thread and most recent set of pictures is ALMOST making me rethink my digital dash swap. I probably wouldn't bother doing this if I didn't have a donor car to disassemble myself so I can see what is and isn't needed and how things are routed.

 

Woah. That looks like a ton of work. Good job on the progress. Can't wait to see it completed.

 

It's a ton of work, more than I realized but it's finally all starting to come together

 

Its not that bad if you got the time and its plug and play. good job getting it in the car tho. Now get it done LOL

 

Would you be able to take a picture of the coolant overflow bottle in your donor car? I'm not sure if there's a different overflow bottle for digital dash cars and a bit of leftover wiring on the pass side in the engine bay is making me suspect this

 

Believe it or not, I'm trying to figure out the same thing too. The coolant bottle in my donor car appears to be just like the regular one, but I don't think it's the right one. The 'COOLANT' warning illuminates on the info center, but that's only because it's not hooked-up. I don't know if there's supposed to be a low coolant sensor inside the coolant bottle or on the side of the radiator.

 

I can help you with the low coolant sensor, on the radiator is a little plastic nib/stopper plug (non digital cars will have this as it is a delete for the digital option) and when you remove it coolant will start pouring out. This is where the low coolant sensor goes. I got one with the package I bought but decided it would be best to get a new one. If you decided to get a new one it looks like this http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...ird&vi=1251447 any parts store should have one. If you would like, I can take pictures of it tomorrow when I start working on my car. This being said, I don't really see any reason why there should be a sensor for the coolant overflow bottle if there's already one on the radiator

 

Well, I must say I'm impressed. This is a big job that's easy to talk about, but a lot of work to actually do properly. Just out of curiousity, do you believe the guy that said he swapped a complete digital dash setup in one day?

And since the "LOW COOLANT" sensor is in the rad, I would guess that the overflow bottle is the same whether the car has digital dash or not. I do know the shape and size of the bottle changed in later years, but it shouldn't matter either way. For reference, this is a pic of a bottle in an 88 digital dash GTA:

 

Thank you, that helps a lot!

 

I've been thinking the same thing...

 

That is one mint looking engine bay, looks sexy. I 100% do not believe that the whole "swap can be done in one day" is true, especially if you want it done right. Thanks for clearing this up, it's a relief knowing that I don't have to go hunting for another part to make this work. There is some wiring in my engine bay that is part of the digital hvac harness that I have no idea what it plugs into, if I take a picture of it do you think you could have a look in your engine bay as to where it plugs into? these stray wires are driving me crazy