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Auto Hatch Pull Down

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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 10:47 PM
  #1  
Annihilate's Avatar
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From: Michigan
Car: 1988 IROC-Z/G92
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45 Eaton Truetrac
Auto Hatch Pull Down

Despite all the wiring diagrams, and all the parts I grab from the junkyard, I can't get this dang thing to work. Any help??

Last edited by Annihilate; Sep 5, 2013 at 10:55 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #2  
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From: RI
Car: 1984 Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.11 LS1 Rear End
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

I don't know what's wrong with your current unit,.... I'd start by checking the PPD Fuse in the fuse-box and the Ground wire first.

If all else fails for you; I've got a fully functional Pull down unit available. Just send me a PM if you need the details.

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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #3  
zenish's Avatar
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From: stallings,n.c.
Car: 1989 camaro rs convertable
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 7.5"3.42 gears forth gen 2000 camar
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 03:54 PM
  #4  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Here is a link to the Tech Article I wrote over a decade ago on repairing these pull-down units. First two pages cover the 86-87, next wto pages covers the 88-91.

https://www.thirdgen.org/tech/hatchpulldown.pdf

Yes I still make and stock the parts to repair these pull-down units. Good luck with the repairs.

Lon
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 03:45 AM
  #5  
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From: Michigan
Car: 1988 IROC-Z/G92
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 3.45 Eaton Truetrac
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Originally Posted by lonsal
Here is a link to the Tech Article I wrote over a decade ago on repairing these pull-down units. First two pages cover the 86-87, next wto pages covers the 88-91.

https://www.thirdgen.org/tech/hatchpulldown.pdf

Yes I still make and stock the parts to repair these pull-down units. Good luck with the repairs.

Lon
Thanks, however I feel mine is more electrical than parts.
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #6  
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From: Menifee, CA
Car: 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, T-Tops
Engine: L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3 2.77 POSI
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Hey Lon,
I just read your complete tech article on hatch pull down mechanism. I replaced some worn out shocks and coincidentally the hatch will not latch now and the motor stuck on. I disconnected the battery to get it to stop. When rear cover was removed, I had white plastic pieces laying in the trunk, noticed the plastic housing was cracked also. Thanks for the article and I'll check out your link and order a kit.
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 06:04 PM
  #7  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Originally Posted by Gruth5
Hey Lon,
I just read your complete tech article on hatch pull down mechanism. I replaced some worn out shocks and coincidentally the hatch will not latch now and the motor stuck on. I disconnected the battery to get it to stop. When rear cover was removed, I had white plastic pieces laying in the trunk, noticed the plastic housing was cracked also. Thanks for the article and I'll check out your link and order a kit.
It sounds as if you need the TDS 204040 hatch repair kit. It includes a new reinforced housing, guides, gear nut, grease and instructions.

The "continues to run" issue is a bad gear nut.

Lon
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 11:18 PM
  #8  
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From: Menifee, CA
Car: 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, T-Tops
Engine: L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3 2.77 POSI
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Is that 204040 kit the correct one for an 89 Iroc Camaro? I trust you would know, it just looks a little different than the one in the car now. Just checking before I spend $100. Thanks
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 11:34 PM
  #9  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Originally Posted by Gruth5
Is that 204040 kit the correct one for an 89 Iroc Camaro? I trust you would know, it just looks a little different than the one in the car now. Just checking before I spend $100. Thanks
If your motor is OK, then TDS 204040 is the kit you need. If the motor is bad, then get kit TDS 300310.

Lon
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 11:45 PM
  #10  
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From: Menifee, CA
Car: 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, T-Tops
Engine: L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3 2.77 POSI
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Motor is fine, I'll order it right now. Looks like you're in LA, I'm in Temecula area, shouldn't take long to get it.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 10:57 PM
  #11  
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From: Menifee, CA
Car: 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, T-Tops
Engine: L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3 2.77 POSI
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Thanks Lon, received my kit today, thanks for the quick shipping, gonna get at it.
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 08:47 PM
  #12  
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From: Menifee, CA
Car: 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, T-Tops
Engine: L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3 2.77 POSI
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Hey Lon, That's a nice kit for the rear pull down unit. Followed the tech sheet, and everything went perfectly, works like a champ! Can I align the rear hatch by positioning the whole assembly? The right side of the rear spoiler is sticking out about 1/4 inch. May have been that way, wondering if there's a remedy, Thanks.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 05:14 AM
  #13  
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From: British columbia, Canada
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 5.0L V8
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

step 1: hit motor with hammer.
step 2: lithium grease anything that moves
step 3: try to see if it works now
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 06:18 AM
  #14  
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Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Originally Posted by Trevmust
step 1: hit motor with hammer.
step 2: lithium grease anything that moves
step 3: try to see if it works now
Hit the motor with a hammer huh? Prolly a bad plan. The housing is a brittle plastic, which is the biggest issue. People slam the hatch and crack the housings.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 06:20 AM
  #15  
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From: British columbia, Canada
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 5.0L V8
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

you hit it the same way you hit the starter, it jumps everything into place. I obviously don't mean wail on the thing lol
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 06:29 AM
  #16  
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Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Well, you never know how someone may take your advice on here. Dude may break out a 5 lb sledge and go to town. Pecking on the motor with the handle of a large screwdriver may be better.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 06:30 AM
  #17  
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From: British columbia, Canada
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 5.0L V8
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

and i said hit the motor, as in the part where the magnets are. not the housing.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 06:41 AM
  #18  
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Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

I totally understood where you were going. But that doesn't mean someone reading this next month,year,decade will. I was just clearing it up a little.
The motor is mounted by that housing, so any force applied to it will be put on the housing, even amplified by the leverage of the distance of the motor from the mount.

Last edited by Joe Tag; Sep 17, 2013 at 06:53 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #19  
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From: British columbia, Canada
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 5.0L V8
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

I don't see how that's possible. you shouldn't own a car if you lack common sense.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #20  
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From: Menifee, CA
Car: 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, T-Tops
Engine: L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3 2.77 POSI
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Talk with Lon@ Top Down Solutions. I just rebuilt my unit, works perfectly, without a hammer involved
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 11:48 AM
  #21  
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From: British columbia, Canada
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 5.0L V8
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

why spend $100+ if tapping it with a hammer and lithium grease works 90% of the time.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 12:20 PM
  #22  
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Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Originally Posted by Trevmust
why spend $100+ if tapping it with a hammer and lithium grease works 90% of the time.
Because, like I said earlier, The problem that happens more often than not is the housing breaks. Sometimes the plastic track guides split and drop out, sometimes the gear strips. If you fixed yours by tapping it and shooting some grease in it, you were one of the lucky ones. This is just the result of a bad design, not contacts getting corroded or arcing and galling like happens in a starter.


"You shouldn't own a car if you lack common sense."

Have you read some of the posts and questions by people on here? There is no entrance exam to buying a car. People do stupid things, not everyone is mechanically inclined. They may have worn out gears, bad track guides,and hit it with a hammer as you suggested. It doesn't work so they hit it harder. Now a simple fix turns into a complete replacement.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 12:21 PM
  #23  
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From: British columbia, Canada
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 5.0L V8
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

cool ****. I'm done with this thread.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 12:46 PM
  #24  
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From: Menifee, CA
Car: 1989 IROC-Z Camaro, T-Tops
Engine: L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3 2.77 POSI
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

Geez man, just tellin you what I had to do, relax
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 04:55 PM
  #25  
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 5.0l V8 TBI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Auto Hatch Pull Down

I'm just posting to say "hit it with a hammer" worked for me. I installed new guides for my hatch today, and when I tested it, the hatch lowered, and went up, but got stuck once up. I read this thread, and tapped the motor with the handle of a screwdriver. Now it works great!
Thanks!
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