Yes, you read the title correctly. I want to remove the modern convenience of power windows and return to the ancient glory known as MANUAL CRANKS.

switches are bad > switches get replaced > motors become weak over the next few months > motors are either stuck or have stopped functioning... again, and sometimes just to mock me, they'll come back for a bit.

To make matters worse, someone must've went through the radio harness with garden shears, installed 3 separate alarm systems from ebay and left them where they died for an archeologist like me to dig up and sort why the battery doesn't last. Luckily, I've got a wiring expert on my labor trade roster and we've gotten all of that mess sorted.

I know 3rd gen's were uncommon with manual windows, BUT, if any of you have been successful in replacing your power windows with manual cranks, impart upon me all of your knowledge and wisdom my good sir/madam, any tips you may have for making it as easy as possible. I do believe from my research that it will rivet back in right where the power windows mounted, so if that's the case, that's one issue out of the way.

That OR, if you happen to see this and want to rid yourself of quite literally the best window technology invented, please, feel free to hit me up with a price and I can either meet up if you're around the Georgia area or we can work out some Paypal G&S and I'll pay shipping (I get it cheap since I have a business account).

Thank You for your time and any help in advance!

 

I swapped mine from manual to power years ago. It was easy. I drilled the rivets w the window in the up position. Used 2 glass suction cups to hold it up while I removed the mechanism. There are 2 sets of holes in the door for rivets. The manual setup uses one and the power uses the other. At least that's how it was in my 82. I know some things are different in the doors of 82-83 cars but I'm pretty sure that's all the same 82-92. The mechs use a large rivit that my standard gun wouldn't fit. All in all, it's pretty easy. The backing of the door panel usually has a hole for the crank.

 

​​​​​​​Good looking out on the rivet size, hadn't thought of that, from what I see online, it says they use 1/4" rivets, so I'll grab one of the Doyle heavy duty rivet guns from Harbor Freight if I ever find the manual regulators. Right now I pretty much have the car gutted on the interior due to years of a leaky T-Top (If it weren't more work than it's worth, I might would do the hard top conversion) that rotted my carpet and Jute underlayment. Which is okay, I plan to sound deaden it, closed cell acoustic layer and do another thing most would scoff at, but put in a molded vinyl flooring instead of replacing the carpet, at least a leaky T-top can never ruin the floor again.

It is good to know that it's a pretty straight forward conversion. I also will likely be running some aftermarket door cards or make my own like LRB speed with the aluminum powder coated panels, so I'd be alright if I needed to cut or drill anything out. I wasn't a fan of the Gray interior so changing those door cards out doesn't hurt me any.

 

I'm pretty sure I tossed the manual regulators. I'll take a look. I kept them for a period of time and think eventually tossed them. If I find them I'll let you know.

 

I definitely appreciate you checking for me! Hopefully they are still laying around somewhere because these things are kinda hard to find in stock online, haha!