after u bought ur motor, transmission, wiring, what all did u pay and for what, with your LT1 swaps, im looking for an average amount i might spend after the motor transmission and wiring harness

 

just roughly estimating I think I am into my swap 2000 to 3000 dollars.
This includes
engine 800
rebuild 400 or 500
wiring harness done for me along with feul and PS line 375
tranny I traded my rebuilt 700r4 for a rebuilt 4l60e
hoses, battery, coil, blah blah blah 800 or so

 

I spent 2000 on engine and tranny, and expected about 1000 for parts required, random stuff, ect. 3000 total.

 

95 LT1 Caprice PS lines from parts store(o'reileys) - $35
Fuel lines from Z 2 8 R I C E R - $125
Hooker Headers and Exhaust, and Magaflow Cat - about 700
TPI fuel lines and sender unit and TPI Walbro pump(to convert to FI) - $200
LT1 Vortec Elbow (cause the rubber ones are crap) and ebay LT1 CAI kit - $135
Programming - Madz28 email tune, ALDL Cable, Tunercat and Tunercat Def Files with free tunercat updates - $190

exhaust and headers were my biggest expense

 

$250 for the T56 crossmember
$20 for fuel lines
$35 for custom made PS lines
$150 for a new Walbro pump
$20 for motor mount clamshells
$150-200 various wire splicing items
$190 Hedman headers
$90 Hedman y-pipe
$120 custom 3" exhaust (no cat)
Oh yeah, $10 bucks to make my ALDL cable and $20 on the Tunercat def file

I didn't buy a custom wiring harness, there is no need......8-12 wires and you are set.

 

ic, how much is the VATS module?? and u need it dont u?? and how hard is it to "notch" the frame for AC??

 

dont need a vats module. Could have it programmed out or use a resistor. If you remove smog/egr/air while doing the engine swap you'll have to have that programmed out too.

Notch out probably isn't the right term. Take a 20/24 oz hammer to the frame. Should be able to tell where once trying to get the engine in.

 

My VATS bypass module was only $30 from e-bay, and at the time, was an easier solution than the resistor. Only 3 wires to connect right at the PCM instead if chasing them through the dash.

To "notch" the frame for the A/C, all you really need to do is locate wher it needs work, and dent it in a bit with your BFH. You don't need to do any cutting or welding.

 

You don't really need a VATS module, if you know someone who can program it out of the PCM, that's the easiest way. Just like the other said, a BFH will do wonders on the crossmember.