alright, so here is where i am at
got the engine and transmission wiring and ecu from a 99 z28, a fuel tank (metal... did they start plastic in 99?) and pump from a 98 Trans Am

I bought the car with no engine, so im not entirely sure what all of the wires in the engine bay are for, so... that will be a fun time identifying all of the wires
I pulled my rear end to put in the new fuel tank, and now that it is ready to be lifted in, i have a few questions, on the 98 fuel pump, which of the fuel lines coming out of it are for what? there is four lines coming from the top, my understanding is one is for the fuel, one return (i've also heard ls1 has no return?), one is vent, and one is some emissions crap... also GM has a wonderful way of turning the four wires coming form the pump into 12!, id like to know if anyone knows what the clips attached to the pump are for, i know one is the fuel pressure sensor, and the other is for the sender and the pump, but what is the third clip for??
also, do you think the stock fuel lines will be good for the swap?

I busted a bolt pulling the k-member, and the easy-outs arent working, so I cant raise the motor till it is out, any suggestions foar that?

Lastly (for now) The o2 sensor on the drivers side exhaust manifold is causing problems mounting to the k-member, what would be the best soulution for this? knoch the member enough for the sensor, remover the sensor and relocate it? any other ideaas?


any other suggestions for the swap are appreciated
Thanks

 

I pulled the intake off my 97 Tahoe to paint it & had an intake bolt break off & the easy-outs weren't working too!

I ended up getting a SMALL standard drill bit & drilling as centered as I could in the broken bolt shaft. Then stepped up, size by size, in drill bits, until I was close to the bolt shank size - the threads on it. I used another bolt I already had out to determine just how big the shaft was.

Once I got close, there wasn't much left, but the threads themselves. Then I was able to "pick" the thread bits out, with a pointed pick & used my shop vac to be sure the pieces that got dislodged came UP & not down into anything (like the ports).

Hope this helps!

 

I'm guessing you're using the stock manifolds and making an exhaust system to match up to them. when you get the exhaust made, plug the O2 bungs with m20 drain plugs (i'm pretty sure m20) and have new bungs welded in place that clear your setup. this is pretty cheap and keeps you from worrying about if the 02 sensor is getting dinged up near the kmember.

I think they technically call it a semi return system.
as long as your stock hard lines are in good shape, they should be just fine. you may want to pull the fittings apart and check them and re-teflon the unions just to make sure. any hoses hit them with g-clamps or something rated for efi. if you're using the adjustable regulator strategy, just place it in the engine bay and use the existing feed and return on it, and run a line from the regulator to the fuel rail. If you do the corvette filter idea (vette filter a has built in 58psi regulator) then you have to form a new line from the filter back into the tank and disregard the return line in the engine bay.

 

alright, i got the bolt out, with the help of my buddy Erik, and a larger easy out. Erik is the kind of person who doesnt like to wait, even if it makes things harder....
example... yesterday we decided to mount the engine, i was going to grab a pallet jack form work to raise the engine on a pallet and lower the car onto it, but instead he wanted to single handedly push the engine and tranny under the car then lift it up into place, so he did..

anyways,
I removed the o2 sensor and am going to plug the hole, still dont know what to do with all of the original wires (or even what they are for, for that matter) im going to try to find someone around here that has an '84 5.0 third gen that i can take a peek under the hood to find what the wires are for...

Erik also busted the a/c box taking it out , is there any other car besides third gen camaros that have a heater/non-a/c box??

 

He busted your non-AC heater box? Tell him to get his wallet out.

Those things aren't easy to find, nor cheap when you do find one.

 

Theirs 4 A/C delete heater boxes at the JY beside me!

 

Maybe you should buy all 4 & sell them to TX people!

While AC is considered "optional", you'd be very hard pressed to ever find a brand new car (including 3rd gens in the '80s) without AC, on a dealership lot. If you asked the Salesman for one, they'd think you weren't right in the head!

 

well, i managed to find a chevy conversion van which has a similar box, so im going to just have to make that work, i bought the corvette fuel filter, but i am still kinda confused about the fuel.... After the filter, i run one line to the engine and the other back to the tank? there is two fuel hood-ups on the engine, do i only need one?
also, im running stock lines with an ls1 pump, does anyone know how im supposed to hook up the stock lines to the engine? just use the stock lines then connect that to FI hose then to a fitting? if so what is the part# on the fitting

 

Then engine and tranny are on the k-member, which is in, but the tranny mount doesnt quite line up, might be because the front of the car is still in the air, and the back is on the ground, but the A- arms are back on, along with the new shocks

 

The lsx platform uses a returnless fuel rail meaning you only hook up fuel to the rail in one location without a return.

If your using the ls1 fuel pump, you dont need to run the vette fuel filter setup. the ls1 pump has a built in pressure regulator. im a bit confused as to what your trying to ask.

Basically the LS1 system runs a pressure line from teh pump which goes to the stock filter, after the filter the line T's, one line running to the engine, the other line running back into the tank (return). its pretty simple. if your using the F-body lines from an ls1 car, the line fits almost all the way up to the engine bay.

 

One is fuel supply, the other is vapor recovery.

 

Alright, the plan is to run stock lines, i have a filter from a 99 z28 and a pump and tank (metal tank) from a 98 T/A How you you run the stock lines with this, i've heard of it being done, but i dont really understand the point of the lines t-ing off after the filter, it seems ridiculous to me.
<img src="http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e297/jhgerten/DSCF5571.jpg">
this is the two lines coming off of the fuel rail, one is for fuel supply, and one is for vapor recovery? where does this one go to? and do you know where i can get a fitting to hood up to these lines?

on the stock fuel pump there is three wires, + for the pump, + for the level sender, and a common ground for both, but on the new pump there is a for the pump, + for the level sender, ground for the pump and a seperate ground for the sender, so... how can i wire this with the stock clip, or do i have to run all of the wires to the computer?

 

Some guys have just gotten the lines off of a 4th gen and installed them. I ran all new line, and got a Saginaw repair fitting from Autozone and spliced it on the end of the line with a compression fitting to connect to the stock line you show in your pic. I eliminated the evap line, just have the canister open back on the tank.

I just spliced the fuel sender wires to the stock harness (without bothering with connectors). My car was originally carb, so I didn't have any fuel pump wires back there. I ran a new ground wire into the hatch area to a ground, and a new power wire up to the engine compartment (I'll be running an aftermarket fuse/relay box). If you are starting with an EFI car, I suppose you could splice into the stock harness. Unless you are using a 4th gen dash, the fuel level won't be going to the ECM, and neither ground goes to the ECM.

 

Alright, im looking at all of the write-ups and pictures for the fuel lines, and im just dumbfounded... what is the point of the "T" after the fuel filter, my buddy and I are both engineering students, but both are confused by its purpose, is it necessary?

 

If you use a 4th gen LS1 tank/pump, the return is after the filter and the regulator is with the pump off the return (basically a relief valve).

If you use a Vette LS1 fuel filter, it acts as the regulator (basically a relief valve) and the return from the filter dumps back directly into the tank.

Some people choose to use a regulator with a return back to the tank.

Multiple options. How you do it is up to you.

 

alright... i've now got everything i need for the "T", and i have the quick disconnects for the filter and fuel rail and ill probably be hooking that up next time i get a chance to get to the shop.
alright, the box i got isnt quite tall enough, so now i am once again looking for an A/C delete box.. ggrrrreeeeaatt
but the engine is in, tranny is in, rear end is back up, drive shaft in, torque arm - still need to put the car on the floor for it to line up, new fluid in the rear, and will be new in the tranny and engine

 

sounds like your about to the stage im at. good luck with your build. post as many pics as you can. everyone likes to see other peoples work!

 

alright, while i was changing the tranny filter, i noticed that there is a circular hole in the bell housing, i was wondering what this is for, and why this isnt plugged... im not really sure why i havent noticed this before...
also, on the top of the exhaust manifold, what is that outlet/inlet for that is connected to the plastic tubes, i thought it was the egr, but its not connected to the intake

 

The tubes off the manifolds are part of the AIR system. you can remove them and just install block off plates.

 

alright, im not really understanding this whole steam tube deal, whats the point of it, and if I am able to get an LS1 radiator will I still need it? Right now the project is held up because I am still waiting on a fuse box to be shipped

 

It's to let steam out of the heads so you have liquid only in the water jackets. I've never heard of anyone capping it off, doesn't sound like a wise idea to me. The LS1 radiator gives you somewhere to attach the steam line.

Factory, or something else?

 

it will overheat without. I had a blockage that clogged my steam tube and the motor would boil over in a matter of minutes.

 

Alright, so i dont really want my engine to overheat... so i guess ill have to read more into how to do the steam tube
the fuse box I ordered off of ebay, it is form a 97 TA, I just thought it would make it easier, plus I knew i wouldnt have a chance to get to the shop until after memorial day anyways
any suggestions on where to mound the computer?
or where i can get a heater box for under $100?

 

Alrighty, wiring is now underway, got the starter to crank, of course the computer wasnt all wired yet or even plugged in so no engine roaring yet, but i was happy nonetheless. alright, i got the radiator in and the hoses in but the steam tube, I dont really understand
im planning to run it from my upper radiator hose, but where do i run it to? the one in the passengerside of the throttle body in the pic in green or to the drivers side which currently has a hose on it? and is there anything else with this? is there anything at the back of the heads or does the fluid drain elsewhere?
also, this is an '84 - it had an electric fuel pump, where would the relay be for this? can find it.

Where is the best place to mount the computer? right by the battery? the harness isnt long enought to reach inside the car

 

that thing with the throttle body is for cold starts. if you dont live or drive the car when its freezing it doesnt really matter, some call it a free mod to move it off the throttle so it doesnt heat up the air any. that metal line goes to the back of the heads on ls1 models, but they block it off on ls6 motors.

 

i kept the line going trough the throttle body on mine and just ran the hose from the throttle body exit to one of the hoses going to the radiator. I figured it should work.

 

The water exits the heads throgh the steam lines that run underneath the intake manifold. what you have circled in red is where the lines come out to the front of the motor. on factory ls1 cars, that line connects to the throttle body with the hose shown in your pic, the water heats teh throttle body up (for cold weather driving), then exits the throttle body (whats circled in green), and goes to the radiator.

if you want to heat the T/B, run just a hose from the green circle to the rad, if you want to bypass the throttle body (free mod), take out that small hose from the T/B to the steam line and just run a hose from your steam line to the radiator. hope this clears up your question.

 

alright, so all i have to do is get a new fuel pump relay, (the old one isnt working for some reason, or isnt working as it should) and set up the steam tube.
What are everyones suggestions for coolant, should i go with dex or should i switch to something different, ive heard some bad stories about dexcool
and what should i do for my speedometer, dakotadigital? autometer? etc?

 

gauge choice is yours. anything aftermarket has its own sending unit anyways. its when you want to hook up the stock gauges you get into the funny business

 

The speedometer question was more asking for opinions of what others like

 

woooooooohhh!!!! got it running last night!!! im pumped
right now I just have water in the radiator, im waiting on the throttle cable and a new shifter cable (old one was kinked and would go into park because of it :/ )

All i have to do is change those cables, flush the powersteering fluid, it was all clean before i started the car, then it became foamy and brown urg...

I want everyone's opinion on gauges, what do you like for looks in a speedometer, and if i wire the temp sender wire to my temp gauge, will it read correctly, i just dont want to have spent all this time for something dumb like over heating to happen

 

Alrigt im pissed!!! its probably something of my doing, but i took the car for the first drive just about an hour ago, and the tranny wouldnt shift out of first when it was in Drive, and im confused

any ideas *fingers crossed* plllleeeeeaaaaasssseeeee

 

Still haven't gotten the tranny to shift... and i just found a vacuum line that isn't hooked to anything, could anyone tell me where it is supposed to go, it has suction when the engine is running...



if the TCC is hooked up wrong, could it cause this problem of being stuck in first??

 

have you figured out what that vacuum line goes to yet? i have the same question and need to figure out what the heck that is for...

 

yeah, it is for H-Vac, so just plug it and your all set

update: I sent the computer away,and got it back with high hopes, plugged it in again, turned the key, it fired! and then died..
I have a feeling that they before they made the modifications the computer that i asked for, they may have reset the computer to stock which would mean that VATS is on the computer once againn

 

Bummer.

I would expect them to provide a print-out of where they set things.

 

yeah that blows... i would be pissed. do you have any more pics of the wiring you did?

 

were you thinking a diagram or a photo of what the engine looks like with the wiring?

 

yeah i would like to see a photo to get an idea of what the connections look like. i am trying to avoid buying a harness and wire it up myself. im doin this on the tightest of budgets so im just tryin to get all the info and pics i can to make sure i do it right.

 

I got the car done a week ago, well not DONE... but good enough to run,
so im running uncorked right now, trying to find a shop that will do the exhaust for under $1k, everybody says they cant run duals and that making a y pipe with the stock manifolds will be expensive. does anyone with stock manifolds have a decent picture from under their car of their Y pipe??
I would be greatly appreciated

 

wow a grand seems a bit much but i guess if they do a kick a** job... heres a link to what another gentleman had a shop do for his. i think he might be running stock manifolds also.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ap-into-2.html
check post #54.

i was thinking of doing the same set up. looks like you can get good clearance that way. i dont see why you couldnt run true duals. i hear of people doing it... cant remember if i have seen one yet but i dont see why you couldnt run the mufflers before the axle and run the pipes up and over.

if you wouldnt mind... ive run into a little trouble trying to hook up my shift linkage at the tranny. for some reason i can get it to shift out of park into gears but it wont move it back to park. would you happen to have a pic of how you made yours work?

 

I dont have any pictures, but i did have a similar problem, from what i've heard, if you have the original shifter, then you have to use the F-body 700r4 cable, if you have a 4th gen shifter, then you have to use the 4th gen shifter cable.
Double check in the center council to see if the black plastic piece on the cable is wedged and locked into place in the bracket in front of the shifter, then check under the car and see if the other end is properly placed in the bracket underneath, if both look good, then loosen the shifter cable and adjust it so the cable sits farther forward on the gear selector, then tighten the crud out of it and you should be good

no pictures, it just had to be adjusted, if you still have problems, i could take a picture of adjusting the cable on the gear selector, as i need to do it a little myself (when i put in OD it stays in 3, unless I tap the shifter a little forward)

 

oh ok.... yeah i have to stock 700r4 cable on there but i also have the 4th gen cable and shifter and i almost considered switchin the whole thing out. i dont want to if i dont have to tho... less work at this point. i did notice that i had to set the bracket a bolt closer than the 4th gen was... i would reeeeaaally i appreciate it if you could snap a few pics tho...

 

For exhaust check out this thread on the web site. Third Gen Dual Exhaust Thread

Dual Exhaust can be done on our cars but it's not easy to route correctly. Print out the pictures and tell the exhaust shop to suck it up and do it. Might cost you close to $1k though to get it done.

 

so what kind of coolant did you end up going with??

 

I ended up going with Prestone green, and have had not problems yet, although i only drove the car for about a month so far... if you go with anything besides the dex-cool orange, be sure the flush your cooling system, just buy a kit from your local oreilly's or NAPA and you should be fine

 

And i wanted to be the only LS1 swapped 3rd gen in NM....Damn

 

you still could be.. im from MN, not NM, Minnesota... i think i may be the only one in minnesota with a 3rdgen LS

 

Midwest has one of the highest populations of LSx cars on the road. Most of the well known speed shops are located out there. Chances are good you are one of several hundred

 

alright, i have to address this problem.. i just blew it off last summer because i was so happy to have the car running and everything, but whenever i hit the brakes and stop, the car seems to want to lurch forward, with quite a bit of strength too.. any ideas? could it be the TCC?