kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok so that means that the five water pump fittings we will be as follows:
heater out
heater return
upper rad hose
lower rad hose
cap off oil cooler fitting

and the steam pipe will be "T" ed into the upper (return to rad.) hose

yes?

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

Yes IIRC you can get a 94 upper and it has the T in it for the steam tube.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i have a 95 upper to work with, i will probably try to join them myself. so if i do those connections as i listed, my radiator will literally only have the upper/lower hoses, and the overflow/reservoir line connected to it?

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

Should since you have the 6 speed.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

excellent, there are alot of confusing posts about lt1 cooling on here but that all makes sense now.

my pcm got to Solomon at lt1pcmtuning.com today so i should have it back next week. i am also getting the correct pcv vent hose from brocks camaro and firebird sometime in the next week or two.

other than that i am ready to remove tthe portions of the wiring harness that i deleted and then rewire the engine, and get O2 extensions for my headers.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i need a new MAF connector and then O2 extensions but the rest of my wiring is intact. i went through and labelled everything, and marked the connections i will not be using.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

so what exactly does the pcm need to control the fans?

i know my fourth gen radiator has a temp sensor on the passenger side, but my thirdgen one has no sensors or probes anywhere...
is this ok or will i need to compensate somehow?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Not needed

Ive got several MAF connectors if you need one

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

so does the pcm only use temp. data from the water pump temp sensor?

thanks pocket i just ordered one last night, if it doesnt work out ill shoot you a pm.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats correct. Two wire lets the PCM know whats happening, single wire from the cyl head goes to your gauge. This is true for ALL GM engines except the 98 LS1 and they combine the two into one sensor in the cyl head

Temp sensors in the radiator are usually for fan switches. I have seen CTS' mounted in the radiator but that doesnt mean you must place it there or even use it

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

alright so the car is coming indoors on friday, and i will pull the old engine and transmission.

is there anything in particular i should be sure to hang on to, label, or save?
conversely is there anything in particular i should throw out?

this is my first drivetrain pull so it may be slow going at first. im going to start bleeding things on friday when she comes inside.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You need to keep the 3rd gen harness, atleast most of it

EVAP may be removed if you wish, cruise is up to you. Now would be a great time to upgrade to digital cruise and dump the old vacuum unit.

Itd be a great time to replace the motor mounts, need it or not when the engine is out

I cant remember if you're carb or TPI. Carb fuel lines are a bit different. Near the tank the feed line is simply clamped on because carbs operate at a very low pressure. EFI is significantly higher and has factory saginaw fittings to connect. A later V6/TPI sending unit would solve this. Check this thread for specific fittings for the fuel system

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

when ur pulling out the old engine make sure you take the distributor cap off or it will break, some people like pulling the engine and tranny out still together but i have personally that kind of hard to do and more chances of scratchin or denting your car. It is very easy pulling the engine out, this is how i would do it. disconect the battery, remove radiator and fans remove all fuel lines and unplug everything from the engine, unbolt the torque converter which should be 3 bolts, and unbolt the transmission. hook the engine up to the lift and take the big motor mount bolts off, it should be one on each side and slowly start lifting. You could get one of those carb plates to lift the engine with and they also have one for the lt1, it makes pulling out engines verrrrrrrry easy.

here is a link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/engin...Q5fAccessories

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok thanks,

i was also wondering if there is any last minute things i should do for the lt1 before it goes in, i remember seeing something about heat wrapping the starter when installing long tubes?

i got O2 extensions, and bungs for the sensors, any other things i need to change for the headers?


i got my pcm tuned and returned, cleaned my maf, etc. got my spohn t56 xmember...
i think i have all the hardware i need except the fuel lines taken care of, i should be receiving the sending unit and lines out of a tpi car over thanksgiving


the one thing i am concerned about it the stock wiring harness, i think the PO may have destroyed it when he put in the 350 sbc in it right now, and just made his own garbage wiring... we will see when everything comes out.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

as far as the wiring goes for your tbi engine just look on the c100 bulkhead connector, there are only a few wires you need like the purple wire that goes to the starter, the green wire for the water temp sensor all the thick red wires, white wire for the tach and maybe the oil pressure?? but i dont remember, as long as you have the c100 bulkhead connector with at least 1-2 inches of wires you will not have a problem extending and/or finding what wire is which.

Wrapping the starter helps with starter problems like if you run your car for a while and turn it off and try to turn it back on if the starter is too hot it will not start. i would also wrap the headers with some exhaust wrap because they look nice now but after a couple heat cycles they will change colors, wrapping will also keep your bay cooler and they look better.

Try to make the engine bay be as clean as you can and try to neatly dress the wires, makes the swap alot more appealing

are you getting an exhaust shop to build you a custom system?? what clutch are you going with? or reusing the one that came with everything? dont forget ps lines!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

3rd gen harness info here

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-3rd-gen.html

Fuel line info here

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

for fuel lines i was planning on buying the kit from purechoiceautomotive. for power steering lines, i remembered seeing that you could just bend the lt1 lines and it would work out? if not where can i get them?

i am getting a summit universal x pipe kit and some glasspacks and building my own exhaust, dumped before the rear axle. i am using the stock clutch you gave me, it looks to be in decent shape, and im broke!

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

You can do that for the PS line for the fuel line you can do your own. The fittings you can get at ebay and some FI rubber hose.I took mine and had them crimped.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

got her inside, trying to pull the engine this week.


also, as for wrapping the headers, they came with a big thing saying never to wrap them and that it voids the warranty and reduces their lifespan..?

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

before i get the transmission in etc, i keep on hearing to replace the pilot bearing in the t56. i bought one a while back, but i am fairly certain it is incorrect (my fault or summits, not sure). Will a local parts shop have one in stock? if not can i get a link to a proper one?

thanks

Klortho

I would check the pilot bearing and make sure it isn't busted. You can get those from a parts store, but make sure they give you an actual needle bearing and not just a bushing. Autozone and others showed only a bushing instead of a needle bearing.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone know if the power steering pump bolts are fine or coarse threaded? I have two of each 5/16" x 3" but my bracket was crossthreaded at some point and I can't tell which it should be.

i got a new maf connector from pocket today in the mail and soldered it into my harness:

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i searched the ls1lt1 forums and i think i found that the power steering bolts are actually M8 x 3 x 75.... ill have to give that a shot when i get back to the lab on monday. i was under the impression that everything would be non-metric on the motor, but apparently not.

Rich2279

iTrader: (7)

Yes, if you could verify the size, that would be great. I need those bolts also.

Tpx

just to throw some info in here for ya, if you install full length headers you may or may not have starter problems. If you buy a quality starter, you probably WON'T have issues.

DO NOT wrap your headders short or long tubes! Wrapping them will drastically shorten their lifespan, it makes them rust and deteriorate much faster than normal. If you want them to only last 2 years then go ahead and wrap them. Get them coated instead, i've heard only great things from jet hot coating.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

rich- i went to home depot and bought two M8 x 1.25 x 70mm bolts today, i will let you know how they work tomorrow. they are supposed to be 75mm, but i think it may be alright.

tpx- i have the stock lt1 starter, and i am not planning on wrapping my headers. i dont have the extra money to coat them either, so i am going to let nature run its course on them. they should be fine for quite some time from what ive read.

i re-wired the engine today and mounted the alternator. i will mount the ps pump tomorrow, and the lt1 is ready to go. i just need to tear into my old motor and clear out the bay. hopefully i will get started on that by wednesday.

Rich2279

iTrader: (7)

The bolts should have the same threads as the two bolts that are for the tensioner. They would just need to be longer for the p/s pump. Let me know how those Home Depot bolts work out.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i threaded them today and it is definitely M8. The 70mm bolts from home depot work just fine- they are a bit shorter than they ought to be but they get a good 3/8"+ of thread into the bracket.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

got the car jacked up and started looking around underneath (i was short on time so i didnt really get into it). I am going to unbolt the transmission first then basically go through and disconnect everything from the engine and pull it out. I figured i will wait until the bay is open to install my front end steering rebuild and start the pedal assembly etc.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok i just purchased an ls1 plastic fuel tank with sender/pump/etc. intact- so i am going to be doing my best to make that work properly. from what i have read, the resistance values for the gauge will be wrong, but the tank fits with the stock straps, the filler neck will need to be shortened, and that using some 3/8" to -6an fittings i can run my own lines from the rail back to the tank.

here are my biggest questions: i am not running the evap solenoid off the motor, and do not plan on using the charcoal system. how should i go about removing this from the tank/what do i do with the vent line from the sending unit?

i have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator up on the fuel rail of my lt1, i know there is a built in regulator in this tank. do i need to disable it or will the rail mounted one still work normally?

i remember seeing that it is unsafe to run braided lines from the tank to the rail in some thread on this subject- why is this if so and what should i use instead- solid steel lines? i know pocket had a diagram that looked like it suggested running braided all the way from the tank...

i know i will not be using a T block like most with this tank since my return line comes off the rail for the lt1. I am planning to reuse the thirdgen filter, and run feed/return lines the whole way tank to rail. if you can help with any of the stuff i dont understand that would be great. I really want to get this out of the way before i get the motor in the car.
~Steven

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-lt1-swap.html
Firebat is the only one I know of that had done it,mabey he can help you out on some of the ?'s.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks i hadnt seen that thread before. that answers the regulator question. i guess the charcoal is a more generic issue- what is the proper way to allow the tank to vent without using the evap purge solenoid? can i still run the charcoal without the purge or should i just put a filter on the vent line and let it go to the atmosphere?

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

got the front on dolleys and the hood off today

i think im going to wire in a 140 ohm resistor in parallel with the ls1 tank sender, which should provide a 30-90 ohm range empty-full. this will give me an accurate full and empty will be a third tank on the gauge- i think i can live with that.

as far as evap. is concerned, i think i am just going to remove the charcoal stuff and put a breather type filter on the evap line and leave it at that.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

anybody know what that diaphragm thing is? its clearly not connected to anything properly and i would like to remove it, but i dont know what its function is/was...

got the radiator out today, drained coolant and power steering- just need to remove AC, fuel lines, and exhaust and then ill unbolt the transmission and pull it out.

about the ac lines, is there any good way to remove all that stuff without purging freon all over the place?

~Steven

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

That looks like the cruise control set-up from the top.

Did your AC work? If not, I would just go the the schrader valve and release it... I am not positive though, im sure someone else will chime in with info.

ploegi

You are in a lab? Don't they have a recovery machine there? (freon) Venting it to atmosphere tends to annoy folks.......

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

yeah i figured atmosphere is bad- ive done that before...
no we dont have a recovery machine- and no the AC was not working last time i ran the car

i think ill remove the cruise control stuff if thats what it is. it is butchered and i dont think i really care about it anyways

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Poke the schrader with a screwdriver and listen for a whistle. If it does, the system is still charged and must be emptied before you crack a line. You can remove the entire AC system as one unit though. Its bulky and hard to handle so bring a buddy

If the schrader valve doesnt whistle then the system is dry and you can unhook everything

The diaphragm is the cruise head

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

any tricks for removing the cruise components?
how does that system even work? just curious
~ Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...se_control.jpg

Just unbolt the unit and unhook the cable from the TB. Its simple enough

Remove the miniharness by unplugging a few connectors near the pedals and pulling the harness into the engine bay

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks pocket- ill be taking that out tomorrow. also i just found out my fuel lines are along the passenger side since the car was carbed from the factory- doesnt really matter at this point i am planning on making my own lines tank to rail.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

AC is out, also got the transmission cooler/ac cooler core out. the engine should be out by the end of next week- i just need to take care of the exhaust and fuel then unbolt the transmission.



i was wondering what that wiring is that is attached to the passenger side cowl and what that brace/support type rod does? any help on wiring would be appreciated at this point
~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The brace is GM's version of a strut tower brace. Pretty useless and most later cars didnt have them at all

The sensor looking thing bolted to the cowl is the MAP/BARO sensor. You will not be reusing it for the swap. Your LT1 has its own on the intake behind the TB

Wiring help. Its centered around LSx, but LT1 is the same process, only less wires. Your car is an 85, the thread is on a 90-92 o yours will be a bit different. Check the diagrams for your year and be comfortable with whats there
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-3rd-gen.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...rt-finish.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thank you sir looks like i have some reading to do.

while im on here does anybody recommend a specific type of paint for spraying the engine bay- i decided i need to clean it up and spray it. also how dedicated should the prep work be?

~Steven

TexasLT1

The same paint you would use on the rest of the car.

Depends on how good you want it to look.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

well im just looking to get something on there that will last- spray cans would be easiest for where the car is. i was just wondering if anyone had specific suggestions for paint brand or procedure, im planning on simple green scrubbing then sanding with 400ish paper then just spraying 1-2 coats of whatever paint i get.

TexasLT1

If your going to rattle can it then pretty much anything will work. Just be sure to prime it first.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks texas- btw i was sorry to see your lt1 swap guide site expired. that had alot of good initial info when i was doing research.

i think ill get some rustoleum industrial high heat enamel and spray it red after primer.

TexasLT1

I was too, wish I could have saved it all before it got dumped. All of the info that was on it is on here now, it's just spread out in various threads. Good luck with the rest of your swap.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

after talking with pocket i have decided to make my own harness as per his instructions...

i will have more pics as i ravage my two harnesses and continue the engine pull.

~Steven