kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

the only thing left to do is unbolt the tranny and the driver side motor mount.

here on the drivers side i was wondering what to do with the connector in the middle of this pic, lowest towards the ground- the cover disconnected with clips, but it looks like the wires go through and it is only protective?

TexasLT1

thats the main firewall connector for the wiring harness. pull the relays from above it, and there is a bolt, I believe 8mm socket, that holds the connector in place

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks texas ill get that out tomorrow or wednesday.

also after evaluating my time, money, and the current state of the bay, i decided painting would be over kill. im going to grind and paint the pass. side battery tray to fix the rust, but the rest im just going to simple green and wipe down. i think it will look good as it is with some tlc.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Once you are done you will regret not repainting it

The C100 bolt is a 1/4". Shallow socket, 3" extension and 1/4 ratchet is the easiest way to get the connector off. The bolt will stay attached to the connector

TexasLT1

knew it was something around there. It's only been 9 years since I did the swap

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i appreciate the point that painting the bay is a good idea, but i simply cant do it. the car is kept inside at my school, i cant spray any sort of paint in there, and it is around 20 degrees outside and will be too cold for paint until at least march, probably may. thanks for the input, but its unfortunately not going to happen.

today, i got the distributor cap off, removed the motor mount bolts, disconnected the throttle cable, and started on removing the wiring harness....
i got the connector off from my previous post, and starting there, began removing the wiring. so here are my questions.

right off of the main connector, a strand of the harness goes straight up to the headlights, is there a way to leave this part or do i have to remove it all the way from the lights?
tracing over towards the pass. side, i got the wiring off the starter and the battery, and undid all the grounds. there was a whole strand that had the HVAC on it with its own grommet through the firewall- i presume this goes to hvac controls and center console- can i leave this portion alone?

finally i followed my washer fluid reservoir to what i guess is the motor for the sprayer which had a wiring connector, but there was another thing just to the left of it on the firewall which also had a connector that i couldnt identify.


also, my fuel tank arrived today. the lines in yellow are the vent related
lines that currently go to nothing. should i cap either of them, or cut them close and leave them open?

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

You can leave the light harness on it will un-cilp from the c-100 once you get it out you will see it better .And you can leave the HVAC alone also.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Unplug the ECM and pull the harness from behind the fender. Drap the ECM side and C100 side over the engine and pull it as one piece. The harness is difficult to remove from the engine while it is still in the car and the engine has to come out anyways

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

so today i was all excited to pull the motor, but then two things happened. one, the cherry picker was still holding a motor for a friend of mine, and two, my teacher wasnt there which means were not supposed to do anything serious like pull a motor.

anyways, i spent alot of the day getting a transmission mount ready for the motor out of the jensen healey, and finally got it mounted so the cherry picker is ready for my motor.


here it is. Its really a cool engine- 1972 lotus designed four cylinder with a dual overhead cam. Its wierd its a four piece block thats bolted together.

anyways i got my ls1 fuel tank sender ready by removing the regulator:

here it is without the fpr.

i also capped off the fuel lines and everything so that the only thing holding the motor in now is the transmission. Next is drop the driveshaft and unbolt the tq converter and bellhousing

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

so the engine isnt out yet

i was taking out the driveshaft, and the four bolts that hold it in in the rear gave me problems, three came out but one the head stripped straight off...
im going to either cut it or drill it out whenever i get back to the lab. other than that i unbolted the transmission from the xmember and so literally all i need is to get that driveshaft out... ugh.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Cut the U-joint strap and weld a nut to the stripped bolt

Removing the engine/trans from the bottom is the easiest. Once you do it once youll never go out the top again

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i dont think i could get the car up high enough, although that sounds really convenient.

is there a picture or diagram or something that you could point out exactly what you recommend i cut? i could weld a nut onto the bolt but honestly we were just going to bust out the sawzall and go to town

Gordiggz

Just saw this thread today.. great project so far. I'm doing a similar swap of my own.

I would reccomend purchasing a "damaged nut and bolt remover" set from Craftsman. It's like 40 bucks, but I have never, ever, had a bolt that I couldn't remove with this set, and I live in Western NY, the friggin road salt/metal rot capital of the world.

In fact if I'm bleeding the brakes on anything over 10 years old, I just buy all new screws before I start, because at least two will require me using this remover set.

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

If you have a hoist, you can get it high enough. That's what everyone uses.

Ghettocruiser that's on this forum.. and tech where I stole these from, from a recent very LOL thread.

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

got a link to that thread?

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

If you insist.. but it's not what you expect. LOL

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/multim...ull-motor.html

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i still think going out the top is going to be easier in the space ive got- it really doesnt seem to be that much harder...
anyways ill put up pics or a video of when that POS finally comes out, however that may be.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Yeah, that's what I said, too.

Should have dropped it out from the bottom.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Guys, dropping the engine is much more complicated than pulling it out imo. As long as the transmission is unbolted and the hood is off you literally just pull it out and the car can still be rolled away, how could you do that when you drop it?? the hood removal is much easier than having to remove the whole k-member, disconnecting brake lines, and then having to bleed the breaks and such, dont forget not being able to move the engine out of the shop if you need to. IMO from its easier to pull it out, i can pull one of these engines out by myself in around 2 hours

ericjon262

If your not going to paint the engine bay, invest in some Simple Green and start scrubbing, it will be worth it!

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

Don't worry I'm going to clean it up nice.

One thing I have been happy about so far is the absence of rust. Other than the battery tray, the bay and under the car are really dirty, but not corroded.

Anyways, I agree with Noboostnogo, for simplicitys sake if nothing else, I'm gonna go out the top engine and tranny. Sorry if you don't like it but I have seen it done and I'm not too worried about it.

One thing someone could tell me is how to get the huge bolts that hold the torque arm in out since they are put in from the top.

ATX-Iroc

To get the torque arm bolts out just jack up the car and put the frame on jackstands and then lower the rear end until its hanging on the shocks im pretty sure you can get them out by then. if not unbolt the bottom of the shocks and lower it more but watch the brake hose. when you get the bolts out leave the arm in place, it kind of cups the pumpkin you can slide it off easily when you put the rear of the car back on the ground. Tip for putting it back on, us a jack where the panhard bar connects to the rear (you wont be using alot of force just enough to rotate the pinion downward. Nice work, please cover the t56 swap in detail as im getting ready for mine

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That doesn't work. The springs will be loading the axle in a twisting mode, which is resisted by the torque arm. You need to support the axle in a "neutral" fashion.

You usually have to lower the axle to get the bolts out.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

the easiest is to pull the engine out by itself then to drop the transmission and slide it out from under the car, or vice versa, tranny first then engine.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you have the right shop equipment.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

alright so the driveshaft can come out while the torque arm stays in right? i was going to take it out just to make some more space available to fit my fat face under there, but maybe ill leave it. I know im dropping the rear end to get the new fuel tank in so maybe ill pull it at that point to clean it up and put it back in when im buttoning up the new tank and lines.

as for the pull- im either going to go all out the top or tranny out the bottom and motor out the top. how difficult is it to unbolt the tq converter and bellhousing from under the car? is it just a matter of a bunch of extensions and a universal joint on your socket driver?

mikespeed

I've seen people use hocky pucks for that. It fit really well!! I didnt even see it at first.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

If you take the distributor off the car you should be able to get to the top 2 bellhousing to block bolts, the other ones are easy just unbolt the transmission mount from the frame and let it drop a couple of inches but BE CAREFUL if you remove all the transmission bolts it could just drup and crush you, make sure you use a little jack stand or jack to put on the transmission mount.

The torque converter bolts are easy to get to, its just 3 bolts, what ive done before is put a big screwdriver throught one of the flywheel hole to keep it from turning, then you could get a praybar or a big flat head to turn the engine on the flywheel side you could also do it from the front by putting a socket on the big bolt where the pulley is. whatever is easiest for you.

Dont forget the TV cable, shifter cable, speedo cable and the plug as well as the 2 oil lines. I say leave the dipstick on, it shouldnt get in the way of anything, chances are that if you remove the dipstick alot of oil will come out of that hole when ur droppin the tranny

ericjon262

Have a bag of kitty litter handy, you are going to lose some trans fluid, unless you drain it first.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks for all the input everyone.

school was cancelled all week due to the two feet of snow we got over the weekend, so that kindof ruined the whole get the motor out before 2010 idea...

anyways im leaving wednesday to cruise the carribean and do some scuba diving so ill be back next year to finish this thing up.

merry christmas and happy new years!

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

im back.

i had a good trip to the cayman islands, honduras, and mexico, but i really want to get back to the project. more pics starting monday

hope everyone had a great new year celebration and vacation.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

driveshaft bolt: 2
Steven : 0

i still couldnt get the SOB out so i started drilling the head off but ran out of time. other than that i got the computer out, the harness draped over the motor and off everything but the transmission, and removed a few more miscellaneous engine bay items.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Hammer a smaller socket on it or weld a good nut onto it

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

if you can get a bite with it try heating it up with a torch and it still doesnt give...i wouldnt drill it unless you absolutely have to,it wouldnt be fun.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

already tried the torch- no dice. this thing is evil.

tried a smaller socket as well- still nothing.

if possible ill weld a nut on it, but if not then off with its head.

Rich2279

iTrader: (7)

How are you going to mount the dual fans on the newer radiator? I have a similar looking dual fan and was just wondering if you purchased some kind of mounting kit.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

they are already mounted with plastic pins that go through the core, looks like they were just stabbed through. i bought it from a guy on here in the fall, and thats the way he had it set up- its not going anywhere. six ties overall, one on each corner and two in the middle.

ill get a picture or two tomorrow if you want

~Steven

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/elec...-mount-kit.htm

Rich2279

iTrader: (7)

Sure, I love car pics.

The plastic zip tie kit seems like an easy solution. Thank you for the link (noboostnogo).

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

sorry i didnt grab any photos i didnt see your post till after school- but that zip tie kit is exactly what I have on mine.

i die grinded the head off of the driveshaft bolt, got the bracket off, but the driveshaft wouldnt budge. I sprayed it with liquid wrench to sit over the weekend, but how exactly should i persuade it to drop without damaging the bearings or anything? i saw mention of a pry bar in another post? i am leaning towards being gentle with a blunt impact.

~Steven

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

Heat would definitely help ya out on that one. If you don't see that helping much, give the u-joint, not the yoke, some gentle whacks at the caps to try to un-seat them from the yokes. Be careful not to damage the yoke, and if possible, go light enough that you don't damage the u-joint caps either. Prying in between the yoke and the u-joint (inner side of the yoke...) can help pop it out, but for really tough ones, they usually need some hits on the caps themselves.

Go slow... don't go all-out immediately and damage something if it just needs some steady persuasion. It'll come out eventually...

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok thanks a ton- i really dont want to f this up, although i do have a spare driveshaft...

would it help to put something between the hammer and the caps like a bolt with a large head to keep the caps from denting or being deformed?

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

YES - Definitely. Whatever you can use to disperse the blow and make sure that it's being applied evenly is good. It's not the best idea to hammer on sockets, but I'd choose that over nothing at all. I find that the female end of a 1/2" extension can make for a nice round object to disperse the pressure.

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

you shouldnt have any problems if you give it some good wacks with a 3 pound hammer they just get a little rusty from sitting in there overtime

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

so after soaking over the weekend and a little gentle persuasion the driveshaft finally dropped. here are pictures of the yoke with the bolt i grinded the head off of, the transmission output, and my two driveshafts. As far as i know, the only thing i need to do is get the shifter out from the top, and then unbolt the x member / trans. mount. I already removed the torque arm from the bushing/mount. When i removed it, it clearly has the weight of the rear pulling it up towards the floor pan, probably about fifty pounds of pressure. Is this ok for setting the car down since it is jacked up right now?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Leave the torque arm attached to the rear. It will want to rotate upwards resting against the trans tunnel. This is ok. Just dont drive it like that

Grab a new yoke from a junk yard and some good straps/bolts. Itll be easier than trying to fix your current

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks pocket it is sill attached at the rear and i would never drive it like that.

ill keep my eyes open for a new yoke, but maybe i will just get a new rear entirely since i have been thinking about it.

i have seen mixed reviews on fourth gen rear swaps, and hear that they are no stronger than third gen stock rears but do offer better ratios if you find a 3.42 or something. i am NOT going to buy a new rear for thousands of dollars, but if i find a good used rear i will consider it. what do you recommend for that purpose? a fourthgen rear or just a good used third gen rear?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Stick a new posi and gears in yours and call it a day

4th gens use the same housing, just slightly longer axle tubes. Ratios are comparable, but with the availability of good aftermarket, why bother

Nab a new yoke of any GM rearend of comparable year. V6 or S10's should also work fine