i dont know what im going to do about my leaking brake line now... Summit found a pair of rear drum brake lines for 40 bucks, does that sound right? theres no image for them so i would have to go on faith.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-FRA8401S/

tomorrow ill roll the car outside to finish draining the tank, and hopefully primer the engine bay

~Steven

 

See the ship date on that thing? I mean it may not make a huge difference because the likelihood of being all done by then may not be too great, but you could always just go up to Advance Auto and grab some of their lines with the proper ends... buy a cheap bender... and bend to fit.

 

This.

Some line close to the right length is a couple bucks. You can bend it by hand. All you really need is a flaring tool, so if you have to cut the line, just reflare the end, and down the road you go.

 

ok makes sense. i think i have a flaring tool around somewhere... how exactly does a new piece mate to the old piece after being flared? then again the lines are pretty rusty and it might be nice to have new stainless ones from front to rear. Ill think it over.

looks like i need that fuel filter to make the fittings ive got work unless someone has a thirdgen filter they dont need.


~Steven

 

just be careful if you choose to bend by hand - if you bend too far, it'll kink. I prefer to use a bender - they're really cheap for a cheapo one that'll get the job done (less than the cost of another line if you accidentally kink it...) and it'll look more professional having an accurately-bent piece rather than a hand bend. Will both work? Sure. Just a matter of how clean you want it to be.

 

You can buy AN filters, they are significantly more expensive than the stock $7 units

The piece in your link is essentially a very fine stock replacement

Go with the stocker, the saginaw to AN adapters in the diagram are there to mate to the stock style filter. If you get an AN filter, then disregard the adapters and hook the hose end directly to it

 

Practice with the hardline flaring tool a few times before you do the finished line for the car. Its not something you can just wing it and get by with. Also, be sure to get a GOOD flaring tool. It will make the difference

 

ok i ordered that fuel filter and decided to also order new stainless lines for the both rear drums. where is the best place to mount the filter when i start making my lines hopefully this friday?

~Steven

 

Under the drivers rear seat. This keeps it higher than the frame so road debris will never have a chance to rip it off while driving and is well clear of moving parts

 

guess ill have to make a bracket to hold it up there. i also dont want it perpendicular to the lines like that, ill have to find a good spot.

i was going to finish my wiring harness tonight but i just dont feel confident with where to put my fuse block / how long the wires need to be to put it some place good, either by the c100 or on the pass side behind the heater box. When i was looking through the only thing i noticed was that I have a wire labeled Alternator out of my C100, brown, that Pocket mentioned running to the Fans fuse at some point? I have my fans/alt fuse taking power from ign and giving power to the fans relay and the single alt wire w/ resistor. Where does the c100 wire go?

~Steven

 

If you've got the fans/alt covered, then tape off and hide the C100 wire, you wont use it anymore

 

That's the stock location for EFI 3rd gens.

 

my reason was just because i dont have those 90 degree fittings. Would there be room to put it streamline so i dont have to get new fittings or try to force the braided lines over?

 

There really isnt a good place other than right there. Behind that is the axle and gastank. Infront is the trans tunnel which is filled with moving and exhaust parts

The only other option is the engine bay

You could get away with only two 90*s right there with the 3rd gen style filter. Your return line should flex enough to clear stuff

 

its looking good

 

Here is a picture of what the stock fuel lines look like. I snapped a shot when i removed mine to replace them with -8an ss braided lines

 

grr. i ordered the filter to avoid needing different fittings and now i need more fittings anyways?

is the space really tight enough that you cant just rotate the filter 90*? looks to me like you could mount it a touch more inwards and parallel to the lines and use the flex in the lines to get over into the tunnel to run them forwards?

tomorrow its supposed to be 65 outside so im going to try to prime up the engine bay and drain my gas tank. After that i can move forward on the fuel tank and consequently the lines...

i also started pulling the front steering for my rebuild kit. My teacher mentioned a pitman puller to get the centerlink off of the stud?

 

Not really. Here's a shot from a different angle.

 

ok i see now. Im going to at least give it a shot at a slight angle and see how much i can bend the lines without the 90* pieces. Hopefully it will work out. If not ill pony up and buy them.

i made a list of all the stuff i need to do tonight, and it scared me horribly. Ive been really frustrated with how little time ive had recently to get things done, so im going to try to kick it up a notch in the coming weeks. Thanks as always for putting up with me.

~Steven

 

hey idk what kind of lines you are using for the feed but to make you feel better i ran -8an from the tank to the front, and im using an inline fuel filter that is about 2 inches longer than stock and was able to put everything in the factory fuel filter space without any 90* or 45* its all straight fittings but again im using stainless steel braided line which is a bit flexible, and the filter is also not perpendicular to the lines but diagonal. Ground clearance is just like stock.

something like this,

ill try to snap a shot when i get home

 

yeah i have 6AN braided SS, thats exactly what i was thinking. the filter showed up today and its pretty small, so it should work. I need to make a mount for it somehow....

today i installed all of my spohn steering rebuild except the ball joints:

heres the old stuff- which was an absolute pain to get out. I had to use a gear puller rigged on top of a pickle fork to get the pitman arem to let go of the centerlink. A few other studs were stuck, and it wound up taking my whole hour of work time today. I greased up my new components, and hand tightened everything with the wheels straight. I wanted to get the car outside today, but i need steering to do that safely...





the bad news is one of my tires fell over and cracked my center console into four pieces

 

that sucks..check out ebay or on here you'll find something..im baout to do my ball joints too i just finished my front end

 

Hopefully your balljoint will separate easier than mine did. The castle nut backs off maybe half a turn before the shaft froze to it and spun inside the housing. I had to cut it off. Do you know how long it takes to cut hardened steel the size of your thumb with a hacksaw?

A long time

 

That's why God gave us nut splitters.

 

Is this an actual tool or a joke about women?

 

When have you ever heard me joke about women?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66419

 

thanks for the ideas, i couldnt get anything over the 7/8" nut, and i dont have an open ended wrench that big so im going to put off the ball joints since i can do them whenever relative to the swap.

today i used some old radiator hose as a wrapper for my fuel filter and bent two metal straps to make a mount that i can bolt in however i see fit.


basically glorified hose clamps, but strong enough and galvanized steel.



i also dug up my carpet enough to find my fuel tank connector, which is three wires. One of them is snipped under the car before the connector but they are all intact on the interior side... wierd. I dont want to take out alot of carpet and stuff to run new wires, so i was thinking about how else i could do it. Not alot came to mind though, any suggestions or is everything coming out?

~Steven

 

you could just run the new ones along side under the kick panels..if you dont wanna do that then pull the carpet.

 

alright so i found my three wires up by the pedals where they pop out from the carpet, and I decided I am just going to repair them under the car and stick with em. Since I already had most of the carpet up back there though I ran all of my audio wires up the center console along the side of the hump to clear where the shifter will be and up to the head unit. That was all i could do with the rain outside and it being Monday.

In other news I got into Georgia Tech and won an NROTC scholarship! Go Jackets. I also got into Virginia Tech's University Honors so Im going to have to pick one soon. I am going down to Georgia tomorrow night and will be away till thursday. So friday i am planning to leave the car outside and i will go in and finish this painting business once and for all over the weekend.

~Steven

 

i got alot done today. i rolled the car outside for the weekend yesterday, and my dad and I went in early and got in a good day of work. First off I cut the hole for the fourth gen coolant res:




then i drained and removed the old fuel lines. We did a final cleaning and primed the bay:


max pics.

 

since its saturday the school was empty so we had the whole parking lot in the back. it was beautiful outside too, in the seventies. I have the sunburn to prove it now haha



did the first coat of black.



the biggie for the day was dropping the fuel tank and installing my new sender and pump. it wasnt actually too bad once we figured out what was going on down there. here is what we did- first i had removed all the shielding and the rear track bar and brace. we then jacked up the diff, unbolted the shocks, dropped it down, removed the springs. then we unstrapped the tank and wrestled for a while since that is all the haynes manual had in terms of rear end work. we got nowhere for about half an hour, we we went ahead and unbolted the junction in the brake line to give it some more flexibility, and unbolted the brackets on both sides that the swaybar end links connect to. the end links were threatening to snap so we just took the whole thing off. it worked perfectly. at that point we got the rear end almost all the way to the ground without over stretchign anything and the tank fell right out. drained it a bit more, but left some gas in to keep it from rusting. i put in the new sender, plugged it in, and put everything back together.



heres the final pic of the paint work.

~Steven

 

Lookin good! This weather really has been amazing. Good to see some nice progress there. And congrats on the scholarship! Is that a full scholarship or partial??

 

its a full four year scholarship. which means they pay for my tuition, books, and i get a monthly stipend while in school.

~Steven

 

sickk! whens the motor going in??

 

i like the black and red btw

 

well with any luck i can get the motor lifted off the stand tomorrow and start bolting the clutch stuff in. i need to get an alignment tool and sort out which bolts go to which things...

with any luck i could set it in on wednesday, but knowing me ill do something wrong and run out of time haha
then i leave thursday for spring break and its on hold till the second week of april...

thanks for the comments guys

~Steven

 

Just stay late, me and a buddy stayed at school til 10:00 one night changing out his transmission in his Rustang! he didn't think we'd get it done, I told him we just wouldn't leave til it was!

 

clutch is real simple and should go together pretty quick,my advice would be to bolt the trans to the motor and drop it in as one,ive done it before and once you get it ligned up its cake work to bolt it in.

 

yeah im planning on bolting it all together and going in from the top just like the old one came out.



im going insane over how close i am to finally bolting this sucker in. its been far too long....

i got a clutch alignment tool, and i have a new pilot bearing so i guess first order of business once the engine is off the stand is the pilot bearing, then bolt in the clutch stuff and then the trans with the bellhousing.

anybody have torque specs for all the clutch/trans related bolts?

~Steven

 

Linked in the swap sticky for your convenience.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...questions.html

(Except it doesn't appear to have the clutch specs )

 

thanks thats about half of 'em. ill try googling or the instructions for an aftermarket clutch to see if i can find a good number for those bolts.


edit: http://torqspecs.com/t-56-transmission-and-clutch/
might help in the sticky

here is what i have found:
flywheel to engine bolts- 74 ft lbs
clutch/pressure plate to flywheel- 22 ft lbs
bellhousing to block- 35 ft lbs
transmission to bellhousing- 45 ft lbs

~Steven

 

that site has everything but the flywheel/clutch specs!

 

Apparently.

Those numbers look reasonable. I can look in my Haynes if you like. Needs to be soon, though, or this evening - I don't take that book to work with me.

 

ok so it looks like i have all six flywheel bolts, all six clutch/pp bolts, and then...

i have what looks like 7/8 trans to bellhousing bolts and none of the bellhousing to block bolts...

does anybody have the specs or a place to buy these bolts? i think i will try a dealership too....

edit: lots of searches later...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...tall-need.html

trans case to bellhousing bolts are M10 x 1.5 x 40
bellhousing to block bolts are 3/8-16 x 2"
stock bolts are all grade 5

~Steven

 

SAE fasteners are referred to by "grade", metric by "class".

Class 8.8 metric fasteners are of similar strength as Grade 5 SAE fasteners.

 

Are you sure the LT1 block uses metric bolts? My friends swap used the same bolts from his old SBC

 

bolts into the block are definitely 3/8-16
i was only missing one of the original eight trans to bellhousing bolts, and M10 threaded perfectly.




got the motor down off the stand today- ready to replace the old pilot bushing with my new bearing. got the alignment tool today too.


i have a new rear main seal in my gasket leftovers, is removing the old one as simple as prying it out with a screwdriver?

 

Yes, you can see the three slots to fit a screwdriver in there

Lube it up and be careful on the install. Be careful not to roll the lip and tap it in as evenly as you can

 

lube as in grease or is there something specific?

 

Engine oil