kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

the gauges ran me 575. Its a covans classic bezel to fit my car w/ ultra lite series gauges and electric programmable speedo.

just heading home now- pics when i get back.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

today was fairly productive for me, so here goes:

first off I pulled the #3 fitting off of my LT1 water pump- it used to go to an oil cooler which I am not installing. I will fill the hole with an expandable freeze plug later on.


next i took apart the dash a bit and pulled my gauge cluster out. I also started on the pedals but more about that later.


victory.



this is where I am planning to mount my new fuse block as long as there is room behind my heater blower motor.

With the pedals, I got the gas pedal bracket off, so all that is holding it in is the throttle cable. I also got the two left hand booster studs taken care of, but I was having issues reaching the right hand studs with a socket. I dropped the two nuts holding the steering column up to make room, but no luck yet.

Thats all for now

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

my girlfriend bought me some presents...
this is going to be way too loud.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The booster bolts are a pain, but doable. I cant remember any special tricks from the last time I did it

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

i spent all day with my wiring harness- got all the commons in and started to point things towards the C100, fuse block, etc. I havent started extending pcm wires yet because the cable i used to find the distance i need is really long- 8 ft long (from the trans. connectors at the back of the intake). I thought that seemed to large, but the more i think about it the more it makes sense. I ran it over the blower motor, through the stock fender route, and then to the front of the passenger seat. Does this sound reasonable?

also for the fan relay, since the PCM supplies ground, how will my four connections work?

I am feeding it +12v through its fuse, then i put the PCM control into the ground pin, a 12ga wire feeds the fans through the output, but what do i put on the last pin? On my other relays I have +12v, ground, trigger, output
here i have +12v, trigger is ground, ?, output

edit: guess i just needed to look at the howstuffworks page for relays, so i will have the ignition and the pcm (ground) on the magnet pins, and then power from the distribution block and the fan output on the switched pins.

~Steven

DanTheAngry

Subscribed. Keep it up man.

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

Does the #3 fitting on the water pump just pull out with pliers?

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

its held in by some sort of hardened sealant- i used a mallet to knock it back and forth about ten times before using channel locks to twist and pull it out. It will take about five or ten minutes if you use a hammer to loosen it up first. Just pulling would be a nightmare- its in there pretty good.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

today i got the gas pedal all the way out, and....

got all four booster nuts off in 45 minutes! It hurt alot but i got all of them. I ran out of time right afterwards, and couldnt figure out how to disengage the brake rod from the brake pedal to remove the booster entirely. Can anyone explain the clip that holds it in for me? Maybe i just need to look closer, i really didnt have time. Other than that the pedals are pretty much out as is the booster so i can paint.

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ive seen two types of pins on the brake stud

Common push pin like on tractors, and the retainer clip like GM put on factory throttle/cruise cables to attach them to the TB. Push pin just pulls out and the clip comes off with a small scredriver

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

ok great thanks ill have to check that out so i dont have a bolt plugging it off anymore!

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

once the fitting is out, a 1/2" NPT plug fits perfectly if you want to tap it, I am planning on just using a rubber plug.

thanks Pocket, I looked at my new pedals and there is one of the wierd GM clips on it, so i guess even if I break the old one there is another one lined up- ill try to get it off tomorrow.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

booster out





pedals out.

starting to get the fourthgen pedals ready tomorrow and plasma cutting the battery tray for the fourth gen coolant reservoir.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

I was just reading through my information for the pedal swap, and I was wondering if i need to drain the fluid out of the new clutch master and reservoir? I know there is fluid in there now... Is that separate from the transmission fluid in the trans. itself? How should i take care of it?

~Steven

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

It'd be a good idea to bleed the fluid in the master/slave assembly, ya. It is totally separate from the fluid in the trans. It'll just use standard brake fluid. Do a search on bleeding clutch hydraulics and you should find enough posts on it... when I did mine... If I remember correct... I pretty much did a gravity bleed job. Been working fine for months now... no issues at all.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

thanks josh, that never gets mentioned in any of these threads- probably common knowledge but not to me haha.

today i drilled out the booster holes on the fourth gen pedals, then started drilling a hole in my hand....
it wasnt actually all that bad but i did gash my hand pretty good on the side of the drill press trying to catch something- damn reflexes. Needless to say that stopped my progress for the day.

~Steven

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunetly its almost nearly impossible to do a project like this without getting banged up at least once lol be aware that clutch suck to bleed..ive tried a couple of times and havent had any luck with them and ended up going out and buying pre-bled assemblys...go by the "if it works,dont fix it" saying,your more than likely regret it if you end up draining the fluid IMO.

ericjon262

Good luck making the goods fit under the car, unless you notch you floorpans your mufflers are going to be scraping everywhere.

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

why not get a new clutch assembly that you wouldnt have to worry about bleeding or anything. Thats what i did with my t56 swap i bought one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-T...Q5fAccessories

they come already bled and ready to go. Its the stock replacement. But of course when i bought my t56 swap it didnt have the clutch assembly.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ill figure out the mufflers when i get there- im really not too worried about making the exhaust work- worst case scenario i take it to a shop and have them fab something up for me if i cant.

for the clutch, i dont have 200 bucks to spend, so i am going to install the assembly that i have as it is, it has fluid in it but hasnt leaked at all etc.

today i got the fourthgen pedals mocked in, now i just need to drill out the master holes.

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

Something to consider - If the fluid looks pretty dirty inside the reservoir, you'll probably want to bleed it. Also, it is MUCH easier to bleed everything off of the car rather than on... so if there's any question about it, I'd say to bleed it now.

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

Hey take some pics when you drill the holes in the friewall,thats one thing i havent done yet id like to see appx where they go.How was it taking out the brake booster?

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok well today was good after a lot of frustration with the pedals. At josh, the fluid looks pretty clean, i am going to think it over and decide when the time comes about bleeding (aka after i spray the engine bay and get to installing it).

the pedals were interesting, i drilled out the booster holes- that was really straightforward, and i guessed on the top bolt hole and it worked out alright. That top bolt gave me the most trouble to get back in. I wasted a lot of time and alot of cuts and scratches and curse words trying to thread that sucker. I finally got it in, not flush because of the washer, but definitely doing its job and tight. I used four large bolts to be my fake booster studs for alignment purposes, and drilled out my u bolt holes from inside. I took the gas pedal off then clipped it back in after mounting the bracket.








the gas pedal sits a bit awkwardly, but it also doesnt have any tension on the throttle cable: by the way, do i need a new throttle cable? I havent read about whether or not i need a fourth gen one anywhere. I hooked up my stocker for now but thats an easy replacement if not.

My biggest headache was with the clutch pedal travel. When it is fully disengaged (ie out towards the driver), it hits against a metal bracket that is part of the steering column structure. It is only in the last inch or so of travel, and i finally decided it has plenty of swing before it reaches there, and that if i screw in the switch on the top of the clutch all the way it still hits it before it gets stuck, so it should be fine.

The fourth gen pedals are definitely doable, you just have to take your time and go at the bolts in bursts. I kept getting frustrated, my hands and wrists hurt, and it really got to me, so i took breaks. Finally got them in though, and it feels good. They are being held in by one gas pedal stud, the top bolt, and the booster and master will go in after paint. I got a hole saw for the master hole but didnt have time to make a template and cut it.

~Steven

(as a side note, it is really satisfying to click each wire into the pcm connectors after redoing the entire harness)

Kamaros

ya same here. ive been waiting for this weather to go away. i started in november but this snow is killing me. nice project. hope to see it finished soon.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You need a 90-92 TPI throttle cable. Your stock carb piece wont be long enough. A 4th gen LT1 cable will also work

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok ill look around for a cable, if not they would probably have one at autozone or something.

josh- sorry didnt see your post earlier. Taking the booster out was a breeze compared to putting this stuff back in... The drivers side nuts are easy, but on the passenger side i found i could only get them with a rachet wrench when i lay on my back with my head where the gas pedal is...

for the holes for the master i bolted the pedal assembly in and then from the inside used a cordless drill and went through the bracket holes through the firewall. After slight filing that worked fine and the u bolt fits well enough. Ill get you some better pictures when i go back on monday and cut the big master hole.

~Steven

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

ok great thanks..i may just drill my hole from the inside without taking out the brake booster..idk how i feel about laying under my dash again for an hour lol got my LT1 fired up today sounds nasty,still got alot of work ahead of me as you do too! keep it up!

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

today i pulled the rest of the center console to get ready to cut my new shifter a hole



used my master to make a template in cardboard with the u bolt, then used a 1.25" diameter hole saw held downwards to cut my master hole- came out reallllly tight but everything fit. I actually wound up with problems fitting the u bolt- turns out my holes were too far apart in the firewall. I used a circular file to open the right hand one up on a diagonal, and now everything fits fine. I pulled it all back out for paint, but it is ready to rock and roll. A word of advice- measure the distance between the holes on the master itself, not the pedal bracket... I drilled from the inside using only the pedals as a guide and it turned out wrong.



there it is.

questions- when i install it for good should i put some black sealant around it to close it up around the edges?

also, what thread/size is the ubolt- i currently dont have nuts or washers for those two studs on the inside.

~Steven

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

less than ten wires to go... with the 8' from the back of the intake I am planning on running stock wiring route to place the pcm behind my head unit and heater controls.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Wheres your build thread? Post up! We want to see it!

Your engine bay wont get as smokey or wet as youd think. Seal it up if you want, its not going to hurt anything being without

Take the U-bolt to the hardware store, they carry metric stuff too

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

today i got the rear of the car on stands under the subframe and got to work on the fuel tank. I got the shielding out, the exhaust unbolted, and the wheels off...

I ran out of time since jacking her up took a while due to the limited space im working with. Looks like this is pretty straightforward though (fingers crossed). Between the factory manual and the haynes manual i have good instructions, and I see everything they have mentioned so far clearly. I read alot of horror stories about getting the tank out, but I think it looks ok. We'll have to wait and see.

Pics to come tomorrow.

~Steven

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

It's really not too bad or complicated... just a bit time consuming to go through all the steps when you're not familiar with them yet. I've had to do it twice over the past year. I'd say the most helpful thing with getting the tank out is to make sure that it's as empty as possible - run the pump to get some fuel out if you have to. Otherwise, you can do it on your own... but it's probably more helpful if you have help. Getting it out is also a bit easier than going back in. And be careful not to bend the filler neck - it's not flexible.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The less gas there is, the easier it will be. I doubt he will have a helper pump because the car was originally carb'd

A helper makes any job 10x easier

Be sure to disconnect the lines and plugs before lowering the tank. The straps will hang directly in your way, remove them by turning them 90* and sliding the pins out. Youll see what I mean when you get there

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

Wasn't the car switched over to carb?? I was under the impression that even the carb units came with a low press pump (like TBI...) but I've never had a reason to look into it. If it was originally TPI like I'd figured... then there'd be a pump back there.

So... no pump at all out back?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ive seen either or

He didnt have the INJ fuses in the stock block, so its a safe bet it was always a carb car

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Just so you know, kthxbai, although i've seen no mention of it in any swap threads, in the pic of the engine bay when you cleaned up everything of rust, you cleaned the motor mount clam shells, it appears everyone bolts up the motor mount brackets instead of the clam shells on the k-member so before going to drop the motor in don't forget to get those swapped out. I noticed this myself when stairing at my engine bay and wondering where eveyrone way assaulting their k-members with hammers when their motor mounts were pushed up so far, but infact the bracket goes back a little farther than the motor mount. Hope I'm right on this, hate to waste either of our times.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

yeah its carbed from the factory based on vin and rpo.

redta, im not sure i follow you. I have swapped the SBC clam shells onto the lt1 block, and it will sit over the mounts that you are referring to and then a bolt goes through each one...

am i wrong?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

K-member mods are for AC compressor clearance, both LTx and LSx swaps

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

pocket is right,i swapped my factory motor mounts from the 305 onto the LT1 and with no AC it bolted right in with clearance issues at all.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok cool.

today i pulled some more out of the rear-


heat shielding, track bar and brace under the car



took a hack saw and cut the exhaust near the axle. Dropped it down- muffler says super turbo on it, stock?



heres my rear end with the extras out of the way- that numbering in paint makes me think this is from a yard? which means it may not be 3.08s which means my tune may be wrong

how can i check on the ratio?

~Steven

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Probably not.

Pull the cover. Look for a couple of numbers stamped on the edge of the ring gear (like 41, 11). Those are the numbers of teeth on the ring and pinion gears. Divide the larger number by the smaller, round off to the hundredths, that's your ratio. For example, 41/11=3.727272727272 = 3.73 ratio.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

ok so i have to drain the diff then :/

today i was working my way back from the front taking the clips off that hold the fuel lines and the drivers side rear brake line, and the brake line started leaking from where there is a screw on fitting after a bend directly in front of the rear end... I was really hoping i was done spending money but i guess i need at least a few feet of brake line and ill have to do some flaring. Any other suggestions?

On another note I removed three of my four lines from the hoses coming down from the tank, and then i pulled off the feed line stupidly creating the perfect gas siphon directly above my face

im going to put the tires back on and roll her outside on monday to get the rest of the gas down and primer the engine bay. Is that ok to put the tires back down and set the car on the ground without the rear track bar and brace? I havent undone anything crucial to the rear end or springs etc...



edit: im also curious about my new fuel pump wiring- how should i route the new +12v and ground for it from the relay? The connector pack only has two wires one is fuel gauge the other i dont know ground possibly? Should i run the new wires in the interior then down and through our tuck them up along the tunnel?
~Steven

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

What kind of a connector is on your gas tank right now? If it's the standard 3-pin, you really don't need to run wires all the way to the back... just tie in to where they come up front. The three would be 12v, Ground, and Gauge.

What exactly do you have holding your rear end in right now?? I get that you have springs and LCA, but is the Torque arm still mounted up? It's reeeally not recommended that you roll it much if the torque arm isn't mounted both front and rear... but I haven't tried it. If it's not mounted up front, depending on which way the rotational force is, it'll either be pressed up hard against the trans tunnel or it will slam against the ground.

You'll be happy you drained the diff anyways... get some fresh fluid in there Find out what gears ya have. Have you checked to see how the wheels spin? Posi... open...? Your gearing will have no effect on the tune though... so don't worry about that.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Cut the old 2 wire plug off and solder a 3 wire plug in its place. Use either factory style or universal weatherpack

The two wires were for gauge sender and ground. The ground needs to be the same size as the new fuel pump wire or you will have problems. Its a simple ground, so it doesnt have to go far

You can move the car around with no issues with the torque arm free. It naturally defaults to upward force (quite a bit actually) and rests against the trans tunnel. It wont hurt anything like this. The only way youd drive it into the ground is to roll forward at considerable speed and lock the rear brakes

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

the ratio changes the speedo output so it would be wrong if the gears arent 3.08

i dont know the visible difference between a posi rear or an open dif?

ill try to find a universal three pin connector to put there. From inside the car, how do i get to that area, is it below the rear seats? I need to run the fuel pump 12v from the relay under the hood along to the pcm then up the center console and down?

also to Pocket: i have a 12ga wire to feed the fuel pump from the relay, but the wires inside the sender that actually plug into the pump are more like 18ga- doesnt that choke it down no matter what size wire you run up to that point? I will put in a 12ga ground from the interior side of the connector as well just to be consistent but I'm curious.

~Steven

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

OEM pump wiring should be 16ga. Its fat enough to hurt your fingers, but doesnt do much else

Youve found why 90% of the large wire hotwire kits are complete hogwash since they plug into the factory connector

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

so running 12ga wont help at all or is it still a good idea?

still dont know where to go inside the car to get to the connector since im adding a wire all the way from underhood.

~Steven

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Sorry, saw this in a few threads above :



and thought that it was supposed to be like this :



Excuse me for whom i borrowed this image from. Just looks like there would be a two inch difference in putting the clam shells on the k-member instead of using the brackets on the k-member like in the second picture, which made me wonder why a/c can't be used like that (first pic) with no modification along with less of a hassle for the T56 and the two inch farther back mount it needs in the second bracket setup. Sorry for my misunderstanding.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

12ga wont give you any benefit. If you've already got it, then then go for it. It wont hurt

Run the wire along the drivers door sill along the stock harness and drill a hole in the pump body connector behind the back seat

The mounts are wrong

LTx swaps use SBC mounts. LSx mounts use the funny red mounts in V6 location

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

alright ill have to get in there and get to it sometime this week.

Also, Pocket, i bought the AN fittings based on your fuel diagram that assumed i would reuse a thirdgen fuel filter, but i dont believe that i have one like your diagram assumes. Is there a direct replacement i could buy that will fit the AN stuff Ive already got?

Ill start searching summit etc...

will this do?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-74720/

~Steven