*I have searched and read the FAQ, and I haven't been able to find a definitive answer for this...

I am swapping an LS1 out of an 02 Camaro into my 92 Firebird. I'm connecting the stock hard lines on the driver side frame rail to an aeromotive regulator using -6 AN lines. The adapters I am using for the stock lines to -6 AN are Earl's part numbers 9894DBHERL and 9894DBJERL. My question is: what adapter do I need in order to connect the -6 AN line to the LS1 fuel rail? I believe it is Russell part # 640940, but I'd like to be sure before I order it. The people at Summit were not very helpful.

Thanks!
-Chris

 

As quoted by Pocket:

Hope that helps. Not sure which one it is though.

 

Well, according to some other thread on here, I'm supposed to get something like this:
Fitting -6 AN Male to 3/8" Push-on EFI N/A 640940 N/A * Fits LT1, LT4, and LS1 (pressure side).
That is from the Russell website. Here is a pic:


I'm just not sure if I should get the 3/8 or 5/16 version...


P.S. Did you get your flanges yet? I shipped them last week.

 

*That also looks very much like the part shown in Hawk's fuel line kit. I would just buy that, but I think the price is ridiculous for what it is...

 

Is that list that Pocket made just for the feed line from the stock hard line to the regulator and then from the regulator to the fuel rails? Or does that also incorporate the return line from the regulator to the stock hard return line?

 

I forget, hopefully he will chime in

(And yes I got the flanges, thanks!)

 

Thats the old list using an engine bay mounted regulator. The fuel rail fittings are not listed... for some reason. Maybe i was tired?

Anyways, this is my new and improved setup designed to be plug and play with daily driver reliability with part numbers. I switched to Russel parts since Earl's didnt have a complete line of the necessary pieces

 

The info I posted was incorrect. Sorry about that.

Chris had it correct

Fitting -6 AN Male to 5/16" Push-on EFI Russ#640930
Fitting -6 AN Male to 3/8" Push-on EFI Russ#640940

 

pocket

what would you suggest if i were using a ls1 fbody plastic tank , stock ls1 fbody fuel pump system, stock ls1 fbody filter , the stock ls1 fbody fuel lines that connect the hard lines to ls1 fbody fuel rails. it has some kind of port with a green port on it.

i want to run ss braided 3/8 and 5/16 lines. basically i want to replace all hard lines with flexible lines and keep everything else stock ls1 fbody. I have place that can make them in any length with any fitting on the end but crimped. fire systems place.

do i just get a whole bunch of Russell #640850 (feed) Russell #640860 (return) fittings ?

thanks in advance

 

You would need the correct fittings to attach to the sending unit. What those are I do not know

The plastic tank regulator is either inside or attached to the fuel tank so the return side will be very short. 4th gen filter uses quick connects (I cant remember if one side is saginaw or not). The rest is pretty simple

I do know that you will play hell trying to find and run braided 5/16 line. Thats An-5. Bumping the return up 1/16 wont matter and the common AN-6 size will save you alot of time

 

Man, I sure wish I'd seen that diagram when I was piecing together my fuel system - would've saved me a LOT of time...

 

Pocket,

Thanks for the information. Excuse my ignorance, but what exactly makes using the vette filter more reliable than something like an Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay coupled with a high-volume fuel pump in the stock tank?

 

I think it's just price. The Vette filter / regulator combo is only like $50, where as a regulator is a lot more pricey (Hawks is charging $170 or something like that I think)

 

I thought Russell #640850 (feed) Russell #640860 (return) QD fittings can be used to convert those plastic pipies on the fuel pump housing. The consern here is would plastic and aluminium comingle. Trying to find on tech pic of if anybody changed them to brass fittings.

The regulator is in the fuel pump bucket inside the tank.

The only issue would be at the engine bay side. I am not sure if i need to keep or get rid of the stock ls1 fbody flex line with that green port.

anyone know what that thing is used for?

If i am keeping that piece, I could possibly use Russell part # 640940 that chriswenk posted.

Then run a -6AN to 3/8 FNPT braided s/s line in between them.

I think there is is a couple of saginaw fittings in the filter/Tee area.
But looks like one of the fittings in your diagram can adapt that to a An or NPT thread.

 

Dummy me bought the stuff on Jon's list and I forgot all about this fitting you need too. (Not Jon's fault, I should've checked over the stuff lol)

 

I chose the vette filter for reliability since its used on a stock car. Talk to HSR guys about aftermarket regulators blowing out on a regular basis. I want something I can install and forget. The vette part got it at the cost of adjustability. Its my daily driver, once the pressure is set, its not moving

I dont know about the 4th gen tank fittings. Search on 'tech

 

I used that same Russell fitting on a 4th gen tank, then ran 3/8" aluminum tubing off of the tank. Pics are available here https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-ls1-tank.html . The supply and return were both 3/8".

The 4th gen tank regulates pressure on the return line in the tank pick-up/pump assembly. So I just used a 3rd gen in-line filter and Y'd a return after the filter. All of the line was new from the tank to the engine compartment.

 

Would by chance have specific pictures of the fuel pump housing and how you ran the lines from the tank ?

Hopefully you got some before you put the tank back in

 

If you are using everything from the 4th gen...you can get away with only buying compression fittings to modify the hard lines. Im running the 4th gen tank, filter, hardlines etc. I kept the plastic lines that come from the tank to the filter. One side is quick disconnect, the other is saginaw...or whatever the screw fitting is.

For the engine bay, you can use the factory lines. I did for awhile. The one with the green cap is the EVAP line. If you are trying to use EVAP, you will keep it. However...and Im sure you've read this...you cant use EVAP unless you are running 100% 4th gen dash. If you are, then you just keep the stock lines...or make new ones out of braided stainless if you wish.

I relocated my EVAP to clean up my motor and just used hose to extend things...that was before I did my second swap, where I just eliminated the EVAP all together since it wasnt working anyway.

I wouldnt replace the soft lines off the tank. They'll work fine for ya.