sorry all, Ive been super busy, but I finally got the new reprog'd pcm back from w8t4meperf. & did all the re-wiring needed on the '04 harness & as soon as i put in the new pcm it fired up fine so I'm thinkin it was bad wiring & a bogus pcm from the seller, also i want to say that i know theres some bad pres about w8t4me perfomance but I gotta stand by them on this one, becuase when i sent them bolth of my pcm's they did the full hi-perf. tune on them w/ all the extra stuff I needed for my set-up(wich would cost $150 - $300 from other tuners) for $85 shipped & they didnt charge me to re-tune the 1st one that I thought I fried (but turned out it was just wiped out, blank) so they did a great job for me & didnt screw me on the one I screwed up when they could have easily re-charged me for it.
I still have not bought a scanner yet but the car is running great & i have other, more pressing issues at hand like the power steering pump goin out on me, wich is in another thread on here if any one knows any info on that kinda stuff.
thanx again for all the help!

 

so what does it mean when the feul pump just keeps running for about 5 min. after I shut off the key? it wasnt doin this before, but has done it a few times now in the last few days
is this good or bad?

 

Oil pressure switch is stuck and slowly bleeds off

 

I dont have that hooked up to the ls1 pcm though, how does that affect the f/p ? oh, sorry bout that you meant the oil pres. swich on the 3rd gen f/p relay circuit(its late) can that be bypassed or replaced easily?

 

Try just unplugging the oil sending unit and shut it off. If the problem still exists, look elsewhere

The 3rd gen oil switch has a built in fuel pump bypass to get around a possible failed fuel relay. If its bad it could be sticking open until the oil pressure slowly bleeds back down to zero (5 mins or so)

 

ok got a new oil switch, thanx for the info! so now it seems my alt. isnt charging or I have a slow drain on the batt. some where? after about a day or so of driving its dead again & the batt. gauge never shows more than about 10-11 volts after a full charge.
I've tried two new batts & two altrs. same results, I now have the oem GTO 140a alt. in it w/ a 4ga charge wire to a new red top & the batt. guage shows 10-11v tops & when it starts it goes down to 9-10v & eventually lower.
I dont have the other two wires (red&brown) going to the alt. cause I dont have the clip that goes in the alt. do I need those two wires?

 

Without those two wires, you're running 100% on battery power

Red wire to pin B, PCM R15. If not using the PCM, this gets 470ohm resistor and is connected to 12v IGN

Brown(should be gray for GTOs) wire to pin C, PCM R52. No PCM, this gets 12v IGN

I have a few spare connectors, PM me if you need one

 

absolutely, please do send me one!(or 2) how much?

 

so I cant just hook up the wires from the 3rd gen hrn.then? on the 3rd gen harn. I have a small brown wire and a thicker red one wich you say goes to pin B? is pin B & C the ones on the alt. or where do I find them? which pin is which on the alt?
thanx again man!

 

You need to know if the alt is a single wire (Fbody) or two wire (vette, truck)

I dont know what GTOs use

The small red wire goes to the PCM, you ignore your 3rd gen alt wiring in its entirety

 

the gto alt. is a 2 wire, big square plug w/ 2 male pins I put the small brown wire coming from the 3rd gen harn. to the pin closest to the charge (b+) lug w/ the resister inline & thicker red one to the batt.+ is the the one this goes to the pcm? Ive read that you can just jumper it to the main charge wire on the back of the alt.
so thats what I did, dont know yet if it worked

 

So you ran one to the PCM and one to a 12v IGN source? So you have half, EFI half carb setup

Cant say Ive ever seen that done before, but I dont see why it wouldnt work

I like to run them 100% to the PCM for peace of mind. Its designed to run them so why not let it? No fuses to worry a bout blowing, no resistors to loose contact with. Only function and failure

 

hey, which wire is it from the pcm to the alt? connector/pin# & color?

 

Already answered that

 

so its the green conn. on the pcm & the grey wire, pin 52?

 

It is for Red/blue PCMs

Green/blue PCMs are similar but not the same, youll have to confirm the pinout before committing

 

yeah, thats not the alt. sig. wire thats one of the o2 sensors, i've been checkin the pinouts & diags for 04 gto & I dont see an alt. wire on the pcm at all, unless i'm just missin it here?
so I used the stock 3rd gen ign. lead from the key to the dist. & put the 470 res. inline to the 04 alt. along w/ the red wire(also stock 3rd gen) wich goes to the batt. + anyway & that did it!
thanx again for the info pocket!

 

Are THADURTYBIRD and 91FBIRDLS1 the same person/car? Their swaps and cars are identical

Im really confused whos who

 

both me, I forgot I had a login @ work "thadurtybird" & out of frustration I set up a new one from home when I had troubles w/ the ls1 swap this last winter.
sorry for the confusion
so now the batt. guage reads 16-17 volts w/ the 470 res. & 13-15 w/o it?
wuts up w/ that? it was fine last night!

 

Its a single wire alt correct? Your connecting the resistor into a fresh 12v IGN source and not the PCM correct?

 

2 wires w/ the thiker red one goin to the batt. + w/o the res. right now, cuz w/ the res. inline the gauge is 15-16 volts

 

Ok, lets talk about alt connectors

On the left is the LSx friendly connector. On the right is the 3rd gen connector (ignore the 3rd wire)


For your 04 engine, you use the left one. Take the right one and fling it in the bushes somewhere. How did you get it to fit in the GTO/Fbody alt anyways?

I digress

The brown wire from the 3rd gen connector is attached to the fan fuse. Should you use the resistor method, you take 12v from that. The large red wire is not reused in either case

 

I dont think either of those will work there both fbody(I do have a 2000 camaro alt. but the gto is way beter), I didnt use any "plug" at all on the alt. right now I have two female spade lugs(like speaker conn. but more heavy duty w/ plastic covers) that slide onto the two male pins on the gto alt. where the 2 wire plug should be, it doesnt look the best, but you cant really see it & it works great for now.
check out these pix I just took & remember this is only temp. til I get the gto plug,
right now i just need to figure out the voltage issue so I dont kill my alt. (right?)

 

Ive never seen that style alt before

I dont think its a GTO alt either

 

its gota be a gto it came bolted on the motor& all the LKQ #'s matched, any ideas on the resister or what needs to be done to correct this prob

 

Post on LS1tech in the GTO section