LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Hello

I have a question, i am currently doing a ls1 swap into my 91 camaro but i am running into a issue where the steering box is hitting the engine what can i do to fix this and or what am i doing wrong?

Has anyone ran into this issue where the steering off the 3rd gen is hitting the engine???


Any input would help out alot.

-Mike

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Hitting the engine itself, or something bolted to the engine?

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

You referring to the power steering pump, hitting the K-member? I know that requires relocating the pump, notching the K-member, or going with a tubular K-member.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Since when? Are you talking about using Corvette or GTO accessories or something? I used fbody accessories and the power steering pump is well away from the k-member, it's up top on the motor.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

My bad.....Looks like it is a AC Compressor fitment problem. Pics at Post #11.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ompressor.html

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

Got any pics?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Fbody accessories clear the steering. Only the AC hits the K-member, do a search on the M-member notch. Fbody stuff with a truck HD alt will hit the steering box

Truck accessories whack the hood

Ive never seen C5 accessories attempted, but Id assume theyd hit the drivers frame with everything shifted that direction

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Pocket's post sums it up nicely.

You shouldnt have ANY clearance issues with the stock steering box. The only thing you might hit on the box is if you use a 4th gen rad with 4th gen fans. You just have to trim the fan housing a tad to clear.

Otherwise, the steering box is free and clear.

Sounds to me like vette accessories are being used, but we need more details/pics.

J.

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone for the help.

Well i think i figured out the issue. I guess when i was putting back the k-member the control arm off the steering box was hitting. I had gotten under the car after the engine was in placed and it seems to be fine now and will bolt up with enough space.

I dont know why for some reason it didnt look like it would fit.

I am going to try to post some pictures of the swap.

Also i had trouble fitting the stock exhaust manifold with the cats it hits.

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Quick question, where can i get some nice 90 elbows for my intake ?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Fbody LS1 manifolds will clear everything with tons of room left over. All other manifolds will have issues. It sounds like your engine mounts are wrong

For the intake, try intakehoses.com or fab your own with a few bends

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I think he's trying to use stock manifolds and cats... The cats are hitting. Youre going to have to modify all that to make it work..4th gen exhaust does not fit like a glove from the headers back to the merge of the catback.

And what pocket said... Intakehoses.com is the best place for custom intake parts IMO.

It would really help us if you would give us a rundown of exactly what all you are trying to do. What motor, what car, what parts you're trying to use..etc.

J.

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info.

Sorry for the missing info i was rushed when i had posted.

I had gotten a 1999 Z28 auto roller.

Using pretty much everything from the car. To put into my 91 camaro rs i am not running the AC on it. I am trying to do a smog legal swap. The stock manifold with the cats on it wont fit just like (ghettocruiser) said. I am planing on doing some custom exhaust work.

engine
tranny
cats
o2 sensors
rear end
drive shaft
fuel lines
gas tank
radiator
dual fans
harness
pcm/ecu



Parts i got for the swap
spohn motor mounts and tranny cross member
all phy mounts with stock clam shells

One of the issues i have right now is when using the stock manifolds on the driver side the o2 sensor its the k-member is there a way to fix that or do i have to get a smaller aftermarket one???


-Mike

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Also quick question what size elbows do i need to get? 3 inch, 2.5 ??

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

What holes did you use for the K-member mounts? Front set or rear?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

TB is 4", 4th gen Fbody MAF is 3.5" truck 5 wire MAF is 4"

4" tubing is hard to fit in the engine bay

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Rear set

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Ill be using the MAF from the 4th gen fbody

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

I bought a 4'' to a 3.5'' reducing elbow. Then I bought a short piece of 3'' PVC, PVC is measured inside diameter so the outside diameter of a 3'' PVC pipe equals 3.5'' and i used that for my straight piece and ran a 45* elbow from there to my MAF and my filter is after that. I'll post some pics when I get them.

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

O ok nice sounds like a nice set up.

yeah if you can gets some pictures that could help out alot. Thanks man.


-Mike

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

Hey no problem, I know it sounds kinda ghetto but I promise it looks good! I painted the PVC with a flat black spray paint for plastics.

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Naaa man i bet it looks nice.

I sanded and water sand my engine bay and sprayed caned it and it came out pretty good.

Check it out.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Is the stock TB really 4"? I thought it was smaller. Im using a 4" for my Nick Williams set up. 4" tubing is big, but you can fit it in the engine bay pretty easy. I was running an elbow off the TB, to a SLP MAF, to an Amsoil filter. IATs were through the roof so I relocated the filter under the drivers side battery tray and added some more tubing/elbows. Doesnt look terrible and my IATs stay near ambient temp all day. The motor likes it

As for the O2 sensor... Do you have your trans mounted and everything bolted down? Or is the motor tilting backwards? I thought the O2s fit with the stock manifolds and k-member...

Youre engine bay looks good. I didnt see "dash" listed in your list of parts from the donor. If you need EVAP to function, you'll need the dash. Im not 100% on what you need to pass smog for your area. So Im not sure if you can make the thirdgen evap function instead...but in order to use the 4th gen EVAP, you'll need the PCM controling it...and the PCM cant control it without the fuel level input. And with the PCM using the fuel level, your gas gauge wont work.

You COULD make it all work, but just not run a fuel gauge. Or you could try to run a second, universal sender in the tank, but that kinda scares me. Its a give/take situation unless youre swapping the entire dash and cluster.

J.

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a nice intake set up. I was thinking of doing the some kind of set up but dont know yet. And thanks for the complement.

I am going to try to get more pictures posted of the swap.

Yeah the motor and tranny are bolted down i got to double check to see if it can clear but it looks pretty tight on the driver side.

Well i didnt want to use the 4th gen cluster i am not a big fan of the look. I was told that you can use a after market fuel gauge which will have the correct oms for the pcm. I am still looking this issue more but i been talking to some people about the legal swap seeing what i need to do.

For my exhaust i have to get some custom piping down just like pocket did on his swap. But i plan on doing long tube headers after the whole legal swap is done. Well a little more then just headers

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Like I said, it all depends if you need EVAP to function as its supposed to. There is no aftermarket fuel gauge that will hook right up to the LS1 fuel sender as is and work EXCEPT for the programmable one. There is an autometer gauge that is CLOSE...however you have to send it to them and have them switch the air core so that it goes in the other direction...or else it will work opposite. Its not a big deal, but even after you do that, it isnt ANYWHERE near accurate. The programmable one is what I have, and its great. But its also a good bit more expensive than the other gauges. Its full sweep instead of 90*, and will work with any sender you have.

You can do some rigging to the fuel sender to make it work with a standard 0-90ohm gauge, but then you are back to not being able to make EVAP work. I might be one of the few that actually tried to make EVAP function...but no matter what I tried, it all boiled down to either having a fuel gauge, or having EVAP. I chose fuel gauge and ditched the EVAP stuff all together. Just search and look for some of my posts on it...its detailed in a handful of threads.

As far as I know, unless someone figured something out, there is just no way to have EVAP and a fuel gauge unless you use the LS cluster. But do your research and make sure you need to have it.. If its just to pass a visual and an OBDii test, then you might be able to hook things up, and just program out the codes from the PCM. I know next to nothing about getting a car smogged though, so liek I said, you just gotta poke around some and see what you can do.

Otherwise it sounds like you have a pretty good plan and have a handle on it! Should turn out nice.

J.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Could a LS1 gauge motor & needle, be used behind a stock or new screen printed "stock" gauge face? So that stock appearance was maintained?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Hmm...interesting idea. Im not sure if the movement in the LS1 cluster would fit...but that might work.

Dont forget that info to the LS cluster's fuel level gauge is serial data. So you'd need to figure out that whole mess. Figure out connections from the gauge to the PCM. Im not sure if that goes through the BCM or not, but it might. Ide have to check my schematics, which are covered in dust at my garage, which is 45 minutes away haha.

One issue I see, at least for the firebird guys, is the movement is wrong. Im not sure on the camaro's though, I cant find a good picture of the cluster. But if E is on the left, and F is on the right, and the gauge needle is BELOW the print, it might work.

Just a lot of "ifs". But that has potential. Good thinking!

J.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Where the inlet clamps on, yes. The MAF goes down to 3-1/2".

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Thanks. I'm good at ideas, just bad on execution of those ideas.

Needles just swing in half a circle, basically. Couldn't the needle just be repositioned to swing on the opposite side of the "circle"? To line up with the gauge marks? Make sense?

Or since your adapting the needles motor to a different gauge face anyways.....Couldn't you just flip the motor upside down, and mount it that way? Just mount it so that it swings in the correct way.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

On the firebirds, the needle is mounted above the gauge print. It swings counter clockwise...E being on the left, F being on the right.

An LS1 gauge swings clockwise, with the needle mounted below the print and E being on the left, F being on the right.

So there's no dice there.

On the one camaro cluster I found a pic for, it looks like the direction is right. So you'd just have to fiddle with the mounting and all to make it fit. Just not sure if thats going to be possible. Maybe someone with the two dashes can take em apart and compare. Actually, I know I have a stock fuel level gauge completely out of the cluster housing for a 3rd gen firebird...but thats not gonna help the OP. BUT...if I get bored this spring maybe Ill look into making that work. Just for something to do/help haha.

J.

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

Here's the pics of my intake with PVC, you really can't tell after i've painted it flat black.

LBC_camaro91

iTrader: (1)

Look really nice man.

You pimped it out

What did you use to hold on the sensor on the PVC?

Are you still using your stock over flow tank? or did you go a different rout?

Also what did you do to get your gauges to work? (temp, oil pressure, fuel level, etc? i have read some other post on how to get them to work but i just like to know which way other people though of.)

Well here is a little update on my build.

Engine and tranny is in, drive shaft, rear end, fuel tank, fuel lines, radiator, dual fans, PCM, ECU. Most of all the wiring is done. Engine starts and runs my friend got it do start with out tuning out the VATS . All that's left is getting all the gauges to work, do exhaust work, intake and dressing up the wires and bay.

Can wait to drive it

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

I just made the hole a little small and shoved the sensor and grommet in the hole and it holds itself in there pretty well. And the overflow tank is the stock one, and i'm also running the LT1 radiator. As for the temp gauge I will get some pics of the autometer coolant temp sender and adapter I used, You can also use a coolant temperature sensor pigtail from a 98 camaro i think? it has three wires (2 for the PCM and the third for the gauge). Oil pressure gauge I hooked straight to the LS1 sender, the gauge in the car will be pegged out at 60 but its no big deal to me. Fuel level gauge, I'm using the stock tank so nothing was messed with there