89chevycamaroRS

i have been doing research and sudying this swap befor i acually get into it. i have a questions about the wireing. i plan on getting the hawks LS1 swap wireing harness. does this mean all i have to do is take out my old motor and drop in the new one and hook up all the wireing and the wireing is done?

will all my lights and suff work or do i need to change fuse bloks and stuff also. i have seen a few times tha people use fuse bloks from the LS car.

i guess im asking becuse i dont know if is better for me to find a wrecked complet donor car so i have all the fuse blocks and stuff or just buy an LS1 drop out with computer and wireing?

thanks for he help

ShMaCk2004

$1000 for a harness...

Aaron91RS

iTrader: (2)

I just sat on my living room floor and rewired another 4thgen ls1 harness/fuse box last night while watching TV.
If anyone wants to send me the low low price of $500 and their factory 4thgen fuse boxes and wiring that comes out of it I'll gladly do the same!
That's a savings of $500 over what you already convinced yourself on spending so I don't really feel bad taking your money.
For some reason people still give tons of money for other people to make a wiring harness. Might as well be me.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Read the wiring threads in the sticky and PM me if you get confused or just dont want to do it

I build plug and play harnesses too

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Pocket's harnesses are the bomb. I'm not using any sort of LS1 fuse block in mine, everything in the 3rd gen block stayed the same and I even got to re-use the three relays on the firewall.

Aaron91RS

iTrader: (2)

If you're really going to use the stock harness, and cut those nice plugs that allow you to easily disconnect something should you have to pull the engine later, it's 5 whole pink wires and an orange one.
How people get away with $10 for this much less a $1000 is beyond me.
I don't even think the provide relays when they 'rewire' it.
So then to do factory ratings you need 80amps worth of relay to power those 5 wires.
I hope whether you use your factory 3rdgen stuff or 4thgen stuff you spread the load around.
Personally I fuse it before the relay with a 50amp fuse, then never put more then 30amps through a single relay, then fuse each line after the relay with 15amps.
Over protective, yes, but better then the other way around.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thats part of the reason I used the 4th gen fuse blocks. Everything was fused and relay'd and ready to go. And labeled nicely with the lids. Took me an evening of fooling around to have my harness ready to go, and Im not an electrical wizzard.

If you use the 4th gen fuse blocks, yes you have to figure out how to mount them, but you are almost completely plug and play throughout the entire system. Big plus to me...and it actually made my second swap that much easier. I just unplugged it, swapped the motor and all over to the other car, plugged it back in and viola.

I would NEVER spend $1000 on a harness... Heck I dont even think speartech's where that much were they? $1000??!?! Man...Im in the wrong business!

J.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

What I am scratching my head over is .......

I got the motor to run using the LS1 fuse box and harness.
I kinda took a short cut using logic and worked ....I unplugged the 3rd gen ign switch that goes to the steering column keys and connected the 4th gen switch that connects to the 4th gen fusebox.

And gave a few grounds for the VATS and fuel pump and NSS and the engine started.

I just now need to figure out how to connect the wires comming out of the 3rd gen C100 plug to the wires comming out of the 4th gen fuse box.

I think its mainly 12 volts, ign power and gauges.

A plus would be to get rid of that bulky 4th gen fuse box all by it self.

I just have re read and re read all of Jon's sticky

89chevycamaroRS

Maybe it is just that i am making it too hard on my self. i will admit i dont know alot about wiring new engines into a different car.. i just dont konw what it would take to wire a LS engine into my car. i just thought it sounded easier to get the harness and plug it all in and start the engine but i dont have that 1000 dollars just laying around to throw away

i think my biggest problem is i dont understand where wires go. like in a fuse blok thier are fueses and relays for stuff like lights, door lock, ect and i didnt know how to chage all that over.

maybe if some one can stear me in the right direction... or show me a link to a page that will help me out. i have done research but i am still confused on the wiring... but like i said i am sure i am just making it hard on my self.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The swap sticky contains both methods. Full disassembly like what in mine and BlueZee28's cars, and the more common repin the 4th gen harness

I will tell you from experience, troubleshooting a repinned harness is extensively more difficult if you dont get it right the first time

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Youre right...buying the plug and play harness is "easier"... but not $1000 easier. $1000 easier should include a technician coming out and professionally wiring your car Chip Foose style haha.

What pocket said about trouble shooting is true. If you repin, you BETTER draw up some nice diagrams and label it all.

That was another plus to leaving it as GM intended. I can follow factory wiring diagrams for the 86 for my body stuff, and for the 99 for the power train stuff. I drew up my own diagram for my gauges since they are stand alone. And where the two harnesses merge, in the few places they do, I just made notes in the back of the wiring books.

89chevycamaroRS...Dont stress out about wiring just yet. You dont have to be a wiring tech. The main thing is to take it one step at a time. Get yourself some masking tape and a sharpie and start labeling the plugs that you know you need. Grab a wiring diagram, and just take it one circuit at a time. Thats how you learn it. It'll start off looking like a ball of spaghetti, and it'll be very intimidating. But soon after you get started, it will start to make complete sense, and you'll see what you need to do.

Go over the stickies both here and over in LS1tech...the info is here. Pocket has some VERY good write ups on reducing your harness and tidying it up. If you run into issues...post up, or PM Pocket or me or someone. We'll get you straight.


J.

89chevycamaroRS

i was reading pocket's write up on LS1 harness and i have seen C100/C207 and the relays come up alot in this and other write ups i have looked at.

can someone tell me what these connectors are? i couldnt find anything on them. are they what goes into the dash for the gauges and ingnition?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

C100 is the main bulkhead connector near the booster. Its split into two halves: engine and light harnesses. Light harness half is untouched for any type of swap. Engine half needs to be trimmed down to power and gauge functions with a few relays

C207 is the clear connector near the ECM. Several fuses and the speedo wires go through this connector. Some years also had a C221. This small gary connector houses the INJ 1/2 fuses along with the fan fuse. Other years moved these functions to the C207

Relay locations depend on the year. Often they are near the C100 on a bracket, some are behind the pass headlight. MAF TPI cars used a MAF enable and burnoff relay, neither LTx/LSx use these functions and the relays are deleted. Only fan(s), fuel, AC (if equipped), and IGN (if stock fuseblock isnt used) will remain

Rule of thumb with relays, the ECM/PCM almost always grounds them out to enable them. The exception to this rule is the fuel pump relay which is given 12v to enable. The IGN relay would also be an exception, but it pulls 12v switched from the IGN switch directly. Computer control for a relay is generally dk grn/wht or simply dk grn

Gauges are powered with signals from both of the connectors, hence the scrutiny. Essentially any connector not gone over in detail with the threads is not critical and is removed