Even for a "built" 10-bolt. Ends of the ring gear teeth are smeared.

Something stouter coming. Probably 9".

 

Man, those hting are weird, i have seen built 10 bolts with manual trans and cammed 400 RWHP last into the 11s, then seen the "upgraded" 10 bolts break behind a stock LS1 with nothing but free mods and a lid/cat back.

 

I'm certainly in the camp that sees the Ford 9" as having some worthy advantages. I'll be eager to see your axle swap pics!

 

When i was searching for 9" i think Quick Performance had the lowest prices on housing, axles, and ta mount fyi.

Good thing rear ends are easy to change out lol

 

Might get an 8.8 and put in it, as stout as a 9", and cheaper to build.

 

Didn't really "break", was just wounded. But, the stories of the former nature were why I took the chance with this one. Only thing I didn't do was the back brace, but I don't think I'm going to bother trying.

The local outfit that builds most of the drivetrains for the stick shift racers around here is going to build it for me. I won't need a TA mount, which will bring the price down (substantially, talking to them). I would prefer a 12 bolt, but they prefer building a 9" - I guess it's time I listened to them.

Quick Performance would be a reasonable alternative. I'll talk to both. Might be easiest to have QP do the housing, and the local shop the final assembly.

 

I certainly lucked out, I am still running a S10 10 bolt rear with a gov-lok and 3.73 lol. It went through the stock L98 TPI, 155mph runs, lasted behind a cammed 383 stroker and slicks, and is still kicking behind a cammed, stalled LQ9!

Pinion seal died long ago though LOL

 

And you're automatic. I assume those 4000 RPMs launches (even though it didn't stick very well, even with the Hoosier QTP DOTs) and 4.10 gears did it in.

 

No way the new-center-casting-12-bolt is cheaper than a salvaged Ford 9" with Currie's weld-on ta bracket. Get a housing the right width, you're done for under $300 if you count your welding as free. That price even includes a salvaged 31-spline 4.11:1 Traction-Lok pumpkin and axles from a pickup truck.
Of course, add another $50 for getting the axles and drums redrilled.
But cut the brackets off your 7.5, weld them to the 9", a rattle can of paint at $2, a quart of fresh 75W140 at $7, you're golden. Figure $10 for shipping on the Currie ta bracket.
$400 versus $2,200? No contest.

 

Getting everything straight is another story lol

 

I'd rather spend $2200 and be back running in two weeks with what I know will hold together, than spend time hunting around JY's (nothing in our part of town, my time off when JY's are open is taken up racing), piecing together unfamiliar parts, and trying to weld up cut-off brackets without benefit of jigs.

I've taken a lot of grief for the G-Force ladder bar conversion. May just go back to a TA, even though I don't have one that fits now. Meaning aftermarket, most likely. And probably rethinking the exhaust system. Right now the exhaust is cats after the collectors, H-pipe after the cats, and pipes on each side of the driveshaft with turn-downs at the axle. Isn't as loud as I expected (the rear end makes more noise), but I wouldn't want to keep it this way.

Oh, also modified the driveshaft loop to give clearance for the exhaust, so if I go back to TA, will need to re-do that.

It never ends. . .

 

The $400 way isn't the best way, but it's strong for cheap for guys like me. It'll hold a nitroused stock 454 forever, too.

 

If I was starting from scratch, and in an auto tranny car, I might give it a go.

Maybe for the LS1/4L60E going into the other car.

For this one, I just don't want any more issues.

 

I just scored my moser 12 bolt for 1500$ and am glad i did.

 

I assume that wasn't directly from Moser.

 

I guess for a price like that, it's okay that it isn't a Strange.

 

The local shop hadn't fab'd a complete 3rd gen rear, didn't have a source for new mounts/brackets, so I ordered a housing from Quick Performance.

Now to decide on the center section. QP was not at all encouraging about a stock Ford case, so we'll see what the local shop has to say. QP did offer a Strange case with True Track for a tick under $1300. Or a Detroit Locker for $30 more.

 

I've tried both. I'd say the Detroit Locker is for drag racing, and the TrueTrac is for road racing, autocrossing, trailer-towing and winter driving.

 

And for street/strip. . .

Local shop said knowing what I've got planned for the car, they'd recommend a spool over a Detroit Locker. But they wouldn't discourage me out of a TrueTrac.

So. . .

They're working up a price.

 

LOL, yes, my Moser was used, but in great shape so i jumped on it.

 

For those doing an aluminum-block LSx with a manual trans, and not needing a torque arm, consider this:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...E.aspx?id=1567
then add to that, page 79 of this:
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html
You could probably end up lighter than the 7.5" rear.

 

TrueTrac will break long before the Detroit Locker, the TT guts are just too tiny for the shock loads.

 

This thread is starting to make me rethink my 9" plans. Is the truetrac that bad? A spool or locker is out of the question for me.

 

And the Zen master said, "We'll see."

That they make a 31 spline version would indicate they have some trust in it.

Talked to the shop, they have the center section parts in hand, I'm next in the queue. Quick Performance says the housing should go out this week. The sway bar mount and LCA relocation brackets were delivered today.

 

Based on my experiences, a 31-spline TrueTrac's best use would be a 700 horse road course car that never sees a dragstrip launch.
The Detroit Locker was intended for drag racing and off roading, the TT wasn't. Drag racing the TT is far safer with an automatic, assuming you don't use a transbrake.

 

if it's mainly a drag car, skip everything and put in the spool, I've had instances where a locker will engage/disengage one axle before the other and make the car want to jerk out of the lane.

 

I am running the True trac in my 12 bolt with 500 hp or so, and it is holding fine. I beat it all the time, aggressive driving is the game.

Now for a full or most time drag car, a spool or locker is surely to be the winner.

 

In my case, it is not. It'll be a summer DD with about 6-7 outings at the track.

 

then I'd bet you'll be ok with the true trac, I honestly don't even notice my spool in street driving except slow turns ie parking lots. The thing that kills the true trac that I've seen is in the water box and only one tires spins then both then boom. You have to hit them immediately and hard in the water box for your burnout and a buddy has over 100 passes on his with moderate HP levels.

 

That's what I've heard.
That's what I intend to do.

 

That is how i did mine when i went to the track.

 

Oh, forgot to mention: The box from Quick Performance with the axles and bearings arrived yesterday as well.

 

Depends on the diff. The Ford Traction-Lok from the 5.0 Mustangs is notorious for this bad behavior, but the D.L. doesn't do this.

 

I have to agree, I think the TrueTrac will live just fine for our moderator, but spools are only bad in parking lots. Then they turn lots of heads as they make the tires chirp, even if you are just idling at 600 rpm in first gear or reverse. Then teenagers look at you like you're clueless, even though you're smirking at them. Old car guys give you knowing nods, and everyone else looks at you like you're publicly raping something.

 

detriot locker in a 9" definitely did this in 2 different rear ends that I've driven.

 

sounds like there's a problem with the track prep at your local dragstrip. That, or your suspension was loading and unloading. Bad bushings or shocks either one can contribute to that. Could even be a combination of track prep and suspension.

 

Track prep is one thing I doubt I'll have to worry about, especially on Stick Shift class days. There are 9 sec cars in that class, and typically even faster cars running that day in other classes.

Even with the Eaton posi in the 10-bolt, it was squealing the inside tire around turns in "aggressive" mode, the little I drove it. That's with relatively skinny highway tires, of course (maintains that "sleeper" look on the street).

(I do miss my Power Trax in the '57. But, the stock carrier bearing supports just couldn't handle the load.)

 

Lol, thats funny. And having a Detroit Locker myself, I know exactly what you mean

 

I used to get a lot of worried comments about my Power Trax ("Your rear end was making a lot of noise as you pulled into the pits.")

Talked to the shop tech (okay, son of the owner) at the track tonight. He got the center section put together late this afternoon. Said it went together well. I told him I've been taking a lot of grief from you guys about the True Trac, he said something to the affect of, "You should be okay." Should be? Not exactly confidence-inspiring, I said. He admitted he's a spool guy, and said, "Detroit has a good warranty - beat on it the first time out, and if it doesn't break, then you'll know you're good."

 

I know what I'm about to advise is both an extra cost and a pain, but instead of cruising to the track on drag radials, making your passes, and cruising home, I advise you put a tarp in the back to protect the upholstery, get a chain and some padlocks, and put wrinkle-wall drag tires on another pair of wheels, put them in the back, and cruise on whatever tires you like.
Once at the dragstrip, put the wrinkle-walls on the axle, and chain your street tires to a light-pile or fence post.
Wrinkle-walls will cushion the blow to the guts of the True Trac.
You might need to deep stage to maintain your reaction times.
As for the PowerTrax, IIRC that's the cheapest of 4 versions of conversion-style locker. I get the names mixed up. But anyway, the more expensive versions are quieter. Some off-road guys like to hear their locker working, but dragstrip tech inspectors get concerned when they shouldn't.

 

Racing tires: Hoosier Quick Time Pro DOT 9.50-26x14. I have this phobia about driving racing tires on the street. So, they go in the back of the car to the track, the rear gets jacked up in the pits, street tires removed and the wrinkle walls installed. When the racing is over, the process is reversed for the drive home. I don't bother with the chain and padlock, nobody is going to steal stock Berlinetta rims.

The Power Trax version I had was the Lock Rite (or however they spelled it). I first installed it with stock 3.08 gears using the "track/street" springs. When I moved up to 3.73's and reinstalled it (with the same springs), for some reason it was quieter after that. Never bothered me to hear the clicks, and the track personnel never questioned it. It was just fellow racers that expressed concern.

You can get aftermarket open 9" carriers, and I did consider that along with another Power Trax. But, that would have actually been more expensive.

 

Now have axles/bearings/flanges, center section, and LCARBs. While waiting for the housing, I'm pulling the 10-bolt.

The ladder bar conversion is going to take a little longer than I had planned. The upper tabs are welded on, and grinding/cutting them off would be a chore. The G-Force Suspension guy seems to have gone out of business - the website is dead, and phone disconnected. Looks like I'll have to fab a set of my own.

And, yes, I have considered going back to a torque arm.

 

In my driveway when I got home today:




First things first:




Back:




Front:




Their version of a torque arm mount (adjustable, no less):




Locally supplied stuffings:




Now, back out to the garage to get the old out and start working on getting this in.

 

Have the 10-bolt mostly unbolted, got the brakes off. To my relief the disks fit over the 1/2" studs on the axles (12mm is only slightly smaller than 1/2").

Still haven't figured out what I'm going to do about the ladder bar upper link mount tabs. I could grind them off the 10-bolt and weld them to the 9" (lots of time and grinder wheels). I stopped at the exhaust shop on the way home (they also do roll cages - in fact, probably more cages than exhaust), he suggested a couple of local places I could check for the tabs. Hopefully I can find them or get a line on some tomorrow.

 

diy4x.com is very close to you. Kurt is the owner, he's out of colorado as well and sells all kinds of thick tabs for roll cages, etc. Shoot him a drawing and he'll cut out anything.

 

Looks like they could do something for me. If I can't find anything locally, I'll give them a call.

Everything on their website says "Little Rock, IA". Are you sure about the Colorado connection?

 

I had never heard of that Quick Performance setup. What torque arms can you use with it?

 

As I understand it, anything that will bolt to a stock rear end. It is a unique approach, from what I've seen. You can even get the (usually) less expense non-adjustable torque arm because their mount is adjustable.

Only thing I don't like about the housing so far is the tall spring mount locators. Will make it hard to install the springs. I think I'll cut them down before I install it.

 

those tall spring mounts are when you run drag shocks so the springs don't fall out The drag shocks are typically a little longer than the stockers, so it helps out actually.

 

I won't be using drag shocks, so they will hinder rather than help me.

I think I'll trim them off.

Didn't find tabs today, but got some good leads. Should have them tomorrow before I need to head for the track.