That adjustable torque arm mounting bracket beats the heck out of Currie's. I like it. A lot. do they sell it separately? How much $? And do they have a website? If not, what's their phone number?

 

Website: http://www.quickperformance.com/Products.htm

I don't know that they sell it separately, but can't hurt to ask. I asked them to not include it at first, but decided I might as well have it in case I run into problems with the ladder bars.

I might be running into problems with the ladder bars. I'm a noob when it comes to 9" rears, didn't think through how the axles are retained. Their website says of their f-body housing, "Allows use of factory brakes on 93 & Up". Well, I figured I had bolted LS1 brakes to my '83 disk brake housing, so why wouldn't my '83 disk brakes mount up to their housing? I guess the answer is the backing plate retains the axle bearing, and I can't get the '83 backing plate over the bearing. Do I have to have the bearing pressed on after the backing plate is put over the axle?

The reason I ended up not using the LS1 rear disks is the caliper mounts to the front, and interferes with the ladder bar upper link. LT1 rear disks would work because the LT1 calipers mount to the rear.

Gads, wish I knew everything.

 

Their prices seem pretty nice. I may go with them when I buy a 9" for my car. Thanks for the link

 

89ROC-Z mentioned them in post #4, I just Googled them and found their site.

 

Ahh, I must have missed that post then. Either way, good info to know.

 

I don't know everything either, it does get frustrating. I do know there's NO way to run C-clips in the 9", so you do have to have retaining plates on the axle shafts before the bearings are pressed on. I think I'm inclined toward custom brake backing plates and custom caliper mounting brackets.
Then I'd go LT1 calipers on LS1 rotors, if the rotor thickness is similar.

 

i run lt1 style brakes on my rear end. search for my how-to assemble moser 9" rear end in the drag board for step by step on how i did it. I still can't believe its not a sticky.

 

thanks, I'll need that when I get closer to installing my 9".

 

I found that searching. All of your pictures are gone (or there's something wacky about my ISP/computer).

 

I didn't actually go try to find it. I assumed it's good, just from considering who posted it.

 

The pictures were a big part of it. At least for what I was looking for.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...our-moser.html

pictures are fixed, I had to delete a couple since the board only allows 9 per post now and I couldn't edit in the others. Hope this helps. Too bad it's not in the tech article or sticky section.

 

Ah, yes, much better with the pictures.

Update on my saga:

Today took the axles w/pressed-on bearings (came that way from Quick Performance) and the caliper mount plates to the drivetrain shop that built the center section. First question he asked was whether the bearings mount flush, or stick out for a pilot surface for the plates. Since I hadn't stuck the axle/bearing all the way into the flange, nor measured either flange or bearing race, had to zip home to do that and find out. Turns out they mount flush. So, they're going to try pressing the bearings off, putting the plates in place, and pressing the bearings back on - may need new bearings if the ones on the axle don't come off cleanly.

Next was the axle seal. The bearings are "sealed", meaning they are greased and sealed, and don't rely on differential lube for lubrication. But, they also don't have any sealing (such as an o-ring) on the outside, and he stated the bearings will not "seal" the differential lube. The axles (Moser) have a seal surface inside the bearing, but no seals were included with the housing or axle. So, he gave me a pair of seals and said to see if they fit in the housing (that will wait until this evening).

At least it looks like I can use my brakes and conversion ladder bars.

One other "glitch" - the panhard bar mount is too narrow for the bushing to fit into, and they only drilled the small hole on both sides (the bolt head side is bigger for the larger shank than threads bolt). I called them about those - not so they would fix it for me, but so they would know and could fix it for others. They claimed the mount width was based on a factory jig (or, jigging based on factory dimensions); I do have stock bushings in the panhard bar, but didn't have that problem mounting it to the factory 10-bolt. I'll have to cut the rear plate off (welded two sides) and weld in a new plate. Not a biggie, just one more thing to do before getting this thing in.

Another detail - their shock & LCA mounts are made from thicker plate than factory, which is a good thing. Except, the bolt on LCARB's are made for factory thickness mounts (basically sheet metal). Since they have to maintain the inner dimension for the LCA bushing, that makes the outer dimension too big for the LCARB's (which slide over the stock mounts from the rear). Also, the leg on the LCARB to the shock mount interferes with gusset they have to the shock mount (the factory mount has an indent where the LCARB leg goes), so I had to trim that all up. I managed to get it all to fit with cutting and grinding, and the end result is a very well supported system. I then proceeded to treat them like weld-in LCARB's using several 1/8" 6013 weld rods. I'm going to suggest to them that they just extend the LCA mount so people don't have to buy brackets to install them - who's going to run a 9" in a 3rd or 4th gen f-body with the LCA's in the stock location??? Even if you do want to run in the factory location, it's simple enough to put holes there, plus for lower locations.

After I get the panhard mount fixed, I can mock up the housing with the springs & shocks to get the pinion angle roughed in before welding on the ladder bar upper link tabs. The links are adjustable, but I'd rather have them at least close before I commit to welding.

That's the good news, the bad news is I probably won't be able to work on it the rest of the week. I have meetings after work today and tomorrow, my wife & I are going out of town Thursday thru Saturday for an early anniversary celebration (actual anniversary is next month, but this is the only opportunity on the calendar for the next two months), and Sunday is Father's Day (and I think my presence somewhere other than the garage will be expected). I am on the books to have the car back to the exhaust shop on the 21st, but that will have to be postponed. Next Stick Shift race is the next Saturday, the 26th, and it would be really nice to have it back together by then.

Oh, and the alternator died on the '57 this past weekend, so I need to get that taken care of by the 25th. . .

 

Verified - the seals fit both the axle and the housing.

 

hmm... :-) the good and the bad, but at least, with all new parts, there's no ugly

 

Hey, at least something is working out in the right direction. . .

 

The shop finished the axles/bearings/mount plates today. Wasn't too bad, the bearings weren't trashed in the process.

I'll be out of town until Saturday. Getting a little anxious about being able to get far enough to get a measurement for the driveshaft length in time to get it all back together by the 25th.

 

Just 1 more time, because it can't hurt:
The correct way to measure for a driveshaft is to put jackstands under the rear axle, put the wife and 2-3 bags of flour in the driver's seat, push the trans yoke in all the way, then measure from the center of the front u-joints to the center of the rear u-joint, then subtract 1".

 

Yeah, the shop wants me to measure from the end of the tranny output shaft to the face of the pinion yoke. They say they know what to do from there.

(It would probably be more like 6 or 7 bags of flour. Or 12 or 14 small bags . . .)

 

I've done it that way, but it involves twice the math for the guy building the dang thing. And it adds at least 5 more minutes to every build, I so swear.
But if that's their thing...
And I agree that some wives are featherweights compared to their hubbies. But still, best to get as close as possible to normal driving weight / distribution as possible before getting either measurement. And how many wives can take much more than 60 pounds on their lap? Probably best to call a buddy, but wives tend to be more readily available.

 

I call this, "Time to get my gear in rear."


Actually, that part is now done. Measurements for driveshaft taken (had I not requested 1" shorter than stock for the 3" DOM shaft, with a 1350 rear u-joint & U-bolts, it would probably be ready to go now). Need to button it up - finish axle/backing plate install, brake install, sway bar install, etc. Just might get it back together in time for this weekend's race.

 

Rear mounted, drive shaft finished. Bleed brakes and mount tires, then run it in.

It's been a challenge getting it in, mostly of my own making, but the finished product is looking promising.

Was too tired for pics when I finished last night, I'll try to get some this evening.

 

You keeping stock suspension like the PH bar or you just have not replaced it yet?

 

The PH bar is a boxed stock unit. The car isn't lowered, so I didn't see a need to replace it. I need to verify side-to-side placement to make sure the aftermarket housing brackets didn't relocate it. If necessary, I'll get an adjustable, but otherwise, it doesn't need it.

 

Oh, the PH bar is the closest thing to "stock" on the entire rear suspension. . .

 

Those things flex like a wet noodle on the launches too, when you step up to bigger slicks you can really see the car move around with the stock panhard bar FYI.

 

Even boxed?

 

Did you swap the stock bushings for poly bushings? I have no idea if boxed would help a large amount or not, once I saw video of mine moving all around at the hit I swapped it all out for rod-ended chro moly pieces immediately. Luckily I didn't cut down a slick.

 

Yes, everything is poly bushed. I haven't seen video or pics of a launch yet, maybe this weekend. I've got plenty of clearance everywhere with 9.5" DOT slicks on 7" rims.

Oh, and the rear is nicely centered.

 

looks nice man! qp is actually based out of the town where i live. i'll probably be buying a good amount of stuff from them

 

Their "standard" packages include Motive gears. Tell 'em you want Richmonds.