i searched a bit, and could not find much, but what are the typical k-member mods for the ls1 swaps? i know with certain accessories setups, (fbody ls1 i think), you need to notch the passenger side of the k for compressor clearance. Also the center of the k-member sometimes needs to be trimmed to clear some pans.

are there any other places that work needs to be done? any good threads with pics you could link with this info?

Im going to be modifying a k-member for my 92, with a bunch of other goodies and figured i would do this while i was doing it.


thanks
-Phil

 

Phil

This is the only pic i got of it, i can get some better ones tomorrow



Aces build thread shows the AC notchh that needs to be made

 

cool, thanks

 

mine looks alot like the pic above. i had mine cut 11" wide and about 1 - 1.5" deep. the fbody lsx pan is about 9" wide, so a little bit of wiggle room isn't a bad thing.

 

Spohn mounts dont require a notch unless you are dropping the engine in from above. Then youll never fit it

Mine went in from the bottom and was this tight


SBC adapter plates move the engine forward 1", so a notch is required either way you go

 

Would a tubular K-member be a better/easier route to go?

 

The notch isnt difficult, tubular K would just be a cool mod

 

tubular k's definitely gives you a lot of extra clearance around the oil pan, but don't consider it a necessity. I'm too poor for pretty things

 

Here's the notch for the a/c.





And I had to notch for my oil pan. Spohn mounts were giving me like 1/8" or less in some spots!!!!

Its not a very deep notch. I probably could have gone a bit deeper.





Now I can get a finger in almost all the way around.

If you are using the stock k-member, I HIGHLY recommend notching it for the oil pan while its apart. Its better to do it now and not need it, than realize you need it after its all together...like me.

J.

 

I think he is looking for another k-member that he can mod out of the car and swap in with the engine, that is if he has convinced himself to actually go through with this swap. I am not helping by collecting parts for my own swap right now. I think the LSx bug has bit him and he is trying NOT to start another project, lol.

 

How I did my first one:

Oil pan - I took about 1-1/2" deep, 9" wide, then an additional 1/2" "wing" on each side:



For swap #2 (in Berlinetta #1), I used 2" wide 1/8" steel strap instead of trying to reuse the cut-out piece. Worked fine.


AC notch in swap #1 (Berlinetta #2) - a bit ugly, but I was reusing as much of the cut-out material as possible:

 

did mine twice from the top to problems

always did the trans last though! but i used to do that with the old eng too.


only mod I made was the a/c notch and that I did last. lol everything in the car and it looks great! however I do plan to add to the a/c thread to help some people out with some real simple things like the a/c lines.. no need to find a welder or waist tons of cash on braided lines and fittings

 

What did you wind up doing?

 

waisting time having mine welded so you end up with an ugly tig weld

they have a rod you can use. its like soldering... looks just like the factory fittings when done.. if you look at the gm lines where they attached the threaded fittings its like that

 

Alumaloy or something along that line, no thanks. I dont know how well that would hold up under pressure.
I thought you had a factory line option figured out or something

 

All TIG welds use a separate rod. not s spooled wire like MIG.

 

I think he means that there is a low temp option that you can do yourself without a welder. This is something I have seen at swap meets and such, low temp, cheap, easy and no special welding equipment necessary, just need a propane torch

 

The K-member is a structural component of the chassis. I wouldnt trust anything that wasnt welded. Soldered/brazed doesnt cut it in my book

 

He was talking about the AC lines, we kinda hijacked the thread

 

Mine fit fine with the stock K member, i dont have AC but with the adapter mounts and the solid moroso mounts on the K member mine went right in but the engine hardly has any room to lean back without a trans holding it up, i dont mind.

 

nice attitude! but yeah you asked and im not selling it. I just like my swap to look factory and clean


and I KNOW what tig and mig is.... wish people could read better oh well

 

thanks guys, the pics are a great help. Like scooter pointed out, im picking up another k member to modify for the swap, and add some other goodies too while im at it. Not totally sure when the swap itself is going to happen, im trying to put it off and keep the car together for the time being. I have a bad habit of taking my cars apart constantly and not driving them....

I would go with a tubular k member, but i dont like any of the ones on the market right now. I figure i can lighten the stock one up quite a bit and still have a strong k-member, and maybe one day a tubular one will pop up that i like and i'll go that route.

As for the AC, since i dont have the engine yet, i dont know what im doing there. I may end up using a different fron accessory setup when the time comes. But as of now, im planning to keep AC of some kind in the car.

thanks again guys, this thread has been quite helpful already.

 

FWIW I dropped the engine and trans in as a unit from the top. I used a leveler, without it, I don't think it would have worked. I left the K member alone and I have poly mounts. If I do take the K member out it will get notched though.

 

YES..this can be done..Ive dropped my LSX in from the top with spohn mounts, stock motor mounts and my automatic attached to it, by myself probably four times now..also in a very tiny garage..it can be done its just a pain in the A..you might have to reposition the way you have the motor hooked up and lifted, but your friend "mr. crowbar" will help out greatly..good luck