I have this LQ4 crank, but I don't know if it can be saved. The PO used a flanged nut to seat his damper puller, but it pushed the nut all the way into the snout, probably damaging the threads. Also, he used a pry bar between a rod journal and the block to stop the crank from turning. It left a mark.
I think the rod journal could be turned, if only there were undersize bearings for these LQ4s like there are for SBC and BBC. Could Clevite custom-make me a set for a reasonable price?
I guess the snout could be drilled and tapped, but then what bolt and washer?
Please help!

 

Rod bearings aren't the problem, SpeedPro has you covered, with under-sizes of 0.001", 0.009", 0.010", 0.011" 0.019", 0.020", 0.021", and 0.030", the basic part number is 8-7100CH.
Also, the indent isn't the problem. Think of it like a crater, the one in Winslow Arizona. The raised bit at the rim, that's the problem. That has to be knocked down, but that's it.
I don't know as I'd now trust this crank for really high rpm or serious boost / nitrous. Or even serious trailer towing in a pickup.
The snout is a disaster by comparison. Anyone know if Heli-Coil is an option? And even if it is, you still have to finish drilling out the nut, or cut the new bolt short.
Admittedly, cheap used LQ4 cranks are scarcer than hen's teeth, and this is far cheaper than buying something new.

 

Id find a different crank. 5.3/5.7/6.0 all used the same cranks, just have it rebalanced for your rotating assy. You can pick them up all day for $50-100

 

Buying a 5.3 crank, plus balancing with Mallory metal, would be more money than saving this one. That's assuming he can find one. Otherwise, add in shipping costs.

 

Thank you for correcting me about the bearings. So, does anyone know about the heli-coil situation? Do I just take the big old damper bolt to Fastenal and ask them? It can't hurt, right? They should at least be able to figure out the thread size and pitch.
Atilla, should I go ahead with the grinding, or should I wait until the threads issue has been resolved?

 

M16x2.0x103mm

A tap, helicoil and install kit are already above the cost of a replacement used crank that isnt already fubar. Then you have to risk applying 240lb/ft of tq on the new helicoil which covers ALOT less thread than the old crank bolt did. I wouldnt run it if I were you

 

Theres a company called time-sert that makes hardened, threaded inserts that would work in this situation. Id personally just try to find another decent used crank as it would be cheaper (consider how much a tap and bit that size will cost), but if push comes to shove, they may be an option.

http://www.youtube.com/user/powerstr...94/7rUA48ZAZOg Theres a video of someone using them. Pretty neat if you have something demanding that needs thread repairs.