i have searched. has anyone used a true stand alone harness such as these.
http://www.nelsonperformance.com/product_gallery.htm
http://www.currentperformance.com/eng_mgt.html
http://www.speedscenewiring.com/LS1PAGE.html

and then just pinned in what you needed like the speedo and use adaptors to put in the sensors needed with the factory gauges. one of the reasons i am asking is i went to carb and removed a bunch of wires from mine. maybe it can be salvaged. most of the wires i removed are cut off at the pass fender well still. other parts of it were hacked up before i got it.

 

nothing out of the passenger wiring selection is for the new motor IIRC. Your gauge wires all come out of the drivers side.

 

thats good to know. i think the stand alone harness only needs a 4 wire hook up. then maybe some pins for the gauges.

 

there are no pins for the gauges per say....you would use the factory wiring harness off the factory senders man. coolant, oil pressure, volts, etc. All factory senders wired in.

 

Whoops, I read this all wrong. Dont worry, the only thing used from the passenger side is the C207 connector for your pink ignition commons which is under the dash.

 

so i suppose the only pin that i would need to worry about would be the speedo since mine is 92. and i know that the ls1 oil pressure sender will work my gauge. so do does the ls1 water temp sensor run the gauge in my cluster also or do i have to buy adapters and run my original sender.

 

Speedo, idiot light(MIL), park/neutral.

 

ok so i can throw out the whole passenger side harness correct.

 

Bought mine off ebay almost 2 years ago. Like 400 bucks. Labeled and everything.

 

Yes you can. If you look in Pockets 'How to prep a third gen harness' thread you see that he cuts that entire side of the harness in half.

 

Sure, if you want to eliminate your SES light, your speedometer signal wire (90-92 V6 and TPI), your stock wiring you should be hooking your injector power to since its already there, and has corresponding fuses for in the stock block, ALDL port wiring thats already there...

 

All of those have to be cut away from the old ECM connector and reattached to the new PCM whether you like it or not. Just leave as much length of the C207 wires intact as you can.

(I'm assuming this thread is talking about you going FI LSx correct?)

 

yes i am going lsx. all the wires from the pass side harness are cut back to about the edge of the heater box. but still there. i suppose the wires for the speedo and stuff are inside the car or are they outside. i have talked to a couple a people on those sites and they said they would pin the wires i need and run the wires out for me to the length i wanted.

 

There is a BIG difference between telling someone they can toss half of a harness, and still needing to connect wires to that side, most people would assume you mean they dont have to hookup jack on that side and would likely throw away that half of their harness with the C207 connector attached by following your suggestion.

 

With your car being a 92 RS, the speedometer wire is actually going to be on the connector for the speedometer buffer box, inside the dash near the ecm.

90-92 cars:

V6/TPI the speed signal is input to the ecm, and then the 4000 pulse/mi output goes through the C207 to the instrument panel

TBI cars the speed signal wires go through the C100, over to the buffer box, and the buffer box outputs a 4000 pulse/mi signal to the instrument panel, and 2000/mi to the ecm and cruise control module.

With an LTx/LSx swap on a tbi car, you can leave the unused C100 vss wires, remove them, it doesnt matter, the only wire you need is the buffer box to i/p signal wire to be hooked up to the output on your PCM.