jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Earlier this year, My 383 HSR decided it didnt want to be with me anymore after the #3 rod broke on me. I had spent the better part of 2 deployments worth of savings taking this car from the 305 TBI that was stock in the car to the state it was a few months ago. Long story short, I have been back and forth over the last month deciding if I would swap a LS series motor into the 92 camaro or rid of her and purchase a 4th gen with LS1.

I have decided to keep the 92 and implant a LSx and T56 in the next year or 18 months. This will not be a weekend adventure or even a month of sundays job. The Army has me going to school next week and I will be away about 2 months and then in March, I will be off to Korea for a year long tour, After being in Iraq for 12 months last year. At least I will have plenty of time to decide which power adders to morph into this joker prior to doing so.

The last couple days I have spent stripping the already engine less bay of the Ac/heater box, brake booster, engine harness, and other items in preparation of a makeover under the hood. Tomorrow, I plan to remove the Hood, Nose, and quarters so that I can get a good cleaning and sanding for a engine bay paint job.

Before heading off to Korea, I plan to have at least the engine bay painted to Bright Orange Metallic and a BMR tubular K member along with their lower control arms. IF time and money allows, I will have a LS/t56 pullout sourced also. Otherwise that will be handled before I return from Korea.

Pics will be updated as I go...

Current goals are 400 wheel horse in a 3200 lb bullet. I dont see that being too hard to attain at the minimum.

chevymec

iTrader: (5)

Good luck on the project!!

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

ditto, good luck with the project, and welcome to the LSx family!

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, Am extremely excited about this project. Too bad by nature it has to take more time than would like. But that isnt always a bad thing.

I just came across the chance to buy a set of barely used Texas Speed ( PRC) Stage 1 ported LS6 heads for 500 bones. Im thinking i gonna be all over this!! Friend of mine is having a pretty serious LS3 built by our local speed shop.

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Some pics of the strip down of the engine bay. Have lots of work to do!

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Some more of the Nose and Quarters removed. Wasnt too bad of a task, with the exception of the top most nose to fender bolts and the 13mm bolt to sub frame on passenger side.

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Have a decent amount of prepping to do before I can blast this with primer and paint. Probably should put some sealer also? Planning to get ahold of a pressure washer in the next day or two to wash this down. Then I ll get a gallon of POR 15s marine clean and some metal ready and of course some grinding wheels and sand paper. Will be removing the Steering Gear box also. Might replace that with a new one while I am at it
A couple more pics

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Came across an engine from a 2002 Camaro. It has the Texas Speed Stage 1 LS6 heads, a Texas Speed LS6 oil pump, Texas Speed 228R cam and the Comp 918 springs. These parts have 5000 miles on them. The engine has 115K miles. I have seen the car run at Pueblo Raceway in Colorado at 7200 DA in 12.8. He wants $1500 for the engine. No accessories or computer and harness. I will not be able to get the engine until late October due to being in school in Virginia at the moment.

I think its a fair deal. What are thoughts on the deal from you?

chevymec

iTrader: (5)

Doesnt sound like a bad deal with those mods.

86_irocz-28

Subscribed

supamaro383

Ditto

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Got these made by one of TGO members recently. Pretty excited to get my flavor on these. Some polish, paint and some clear. These wont be installed until the car under goes a paint job. With the exception being the dash emblem. I will prepare that one in Late October and install once done on the 02 dash that is installed in car. The pic was taken by the maker before he did final touch up to them

supamaro383

I'm jealous I want one were? And how much

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

PM TGO member FSTFBDY for the info. I ve seen others and they look awesome installed. He can do about whatever you want done in this format.

supamaro383

awesome thanks

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Making some small progress on the swap. Got the LS1 that was mentioned a couple posts back. It will need the sensors, valve covers, and coils. The accessories as well.

Here is a couple pics of motor




Started on on the harness mod, courtesy of the threads by Pocket. Started with a 2002 Truck harness and the 0411 computer from a V6 truck.




Engine set in to get a good idea of how I want to run harness once the C100 is put in place. Drilled hole underneath ac Delete box. Will have computer in "stock" location. I use stock location loosely as I have have 4th Gen dash installed. The computer will fit nicely in the area where Passenger side air bag was.

quickkris2006

iTrader: (2)

im in the army also and im currently in korea!! do u know what camp u will be comming to? im at casey..

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

I'm goin to Casey too. End of march

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Trying to complete harness work. When I was looking at the c207 to connect the B32 and B34 leads to the park/ neutral lead I noticed mine didn't have the lead in it. I assume since the car was stock 5 speed is why. Found a couple threads that mentioned just to ground the two leads from the PCM. Just want to have this confirmed by someone. So I could just splice these two leads into one of the ground commons and I should be fine?

Also noticed that I didn't have the speedo lead in the c207 as mentioned in the wiring threads by Pocket. I found that I could use pin K and splice into the speedo lead from PCM. Along with the Splicing of lead F and C on the buffer box.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

I guess I see why you were selling off all your small block goodies! I was wondering Dude I think that is a great deal on the engine, and I'm excited to see how this turns out.

Chris's emblems are gonna look sick on your car... I know I love my set!

Subscribed

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You'll only have the P/neutral wire if the car was an auto. I do suggest adding the wire from the shifter to bump up idle instead of permanently grounding them

90-92 TBI cars used the same pin K for speedo as older V6/TPI cars. Dont forget to bypass the buffer box by connecting pins C&F

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

And if I go manual ?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ignore the pins

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Yea. Luckily I have found some good deals. I have only have about 80 in the harness and computer so far. Buddy of mine swapped a 4.8 into his 2002 4.3 Silverado. I got his V6 harness and computer( 0411 ) in addition to the 00 6.0 harness I got from LS1 tech classifieds. Plus a few misc items from JY to include the S10 power distro block.

Gonna be a long process before it is done. Leave for Korea in a few months for a year.

Want to get some more prep work done to the emblems before I put them on car. Want to put some paint accents on them and polish them a bit more and clear coat. Just havnt decided what accents to go with yet.

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

I acquired a MAF that came off a 02 4.3. It has a Delphi part number of 25168491. My research found that it is a 85mm. The one that I have is screened, but apparently the same part number that was on the 02+ ZO6's was descreened.

What would be the best way to descreen the one that I have. Would it be beneficial to do so? I understand that it would require the MAF table of the Z06 for tuning once I get that far.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I wouldnt bother descreening it. Adding tuing issues with no real benefits

Its a pressed in disk, so popping it out requires a long shaft of some sort, a fat dowel or butt end of a screwdriver with a hammer work well if you must take it out

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Pocket. Wasnt sold on de screening anyway, was just looking for others opinion and reasons for such.

Got the battery tray replaced and cut for the 4th gen battery holdown/coolant bottle. Also put some POR15 down in the radiator support and some other areas that needed such before engine bay paint prep.



After that roughed up the engine bay with a scrotch brite pad and then masked off windshield, heater core, hood release, and other areas. Blew dust off and wiped it down with some warm water and cleaner. Let dry and began to spray Summits Gray Primer. Sprayed 4 coats.



Cleaned gun and mixed up some color. Again from Summit, Bright Orange Metallic. Sprayed 4 coats and a dust coat.




Pretty happy with it, considering first time ever spraying with a gun. I know it is not the best or even show quality, but It works for me.

Thinking of painting the intake the same color, but worried about too much BOM under the hood.

85streetmachine

Nice job on the engine bay

quickkris2006

iTrader: (2)

nice!!! will finally have a fellow fbody lover here with me.. lol im in ftab333.. ill be going on leave in the beginning of march for 14 days.. but feel free email me when you get here we can go grab a beer or two and talk cars!! amazing job on the engine bay by the way.. always loved that color! heres my email armyracerws6@yahoo.com

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the kind words. I ll get with you for the beer and car talk.

rock861261

WOW BRO WOW!

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Researching this some more. I think if I was to use the cruise control clutch switch to do this I would be fine. Since I am not using cruise.

I would use switch pins A to ground and pin B to the B32 on PCM. Or vice versa. This should work like the stock switch does. since they are NC switches( meaning the 3rd gen cruise control clutch and the 4th gen CPP ), Correct?

quickkris2006

iTrader: (2)

pocket would be the one to talk to about that.. hes the wire genius

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You dont need to wire in the CPP for a manual car unless you really want to. I would say P/neutral switch is mandatory for autos though

Not sure of the 4th gen CPP is N/O or N/C. Doesnt really matter, try it as-is and if it doesnt work, mod a brake switch. 3rd gens use both, so grab another from a JY and adapt the collar to the pedal stop

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Just basing my NC comment about the 4th gen switch by looking at the schematic.

What is the benefit of having this circuit working in the PCM? What will not happen if I was to ignore it?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Technically, it's a NO switch. With the clutch pedal all the way up, it closes. So, the normal "running" position is closed, but the switch is spring loaded to "normally" open it.

A brake light switch won't work, because they are normally closed. I suppose you could rig up a relay using a brake light switch, but that's a lot of hassle.

I tried to come up with some way of using the 4th gen CPP switch for both the CPP and 2-step. I never got there, and currently don't have the CPP signal hooked up. It turns on the SES light after awhile, I just clear the code and keep going. One of these days I'll have it tuned out.

I rigged up a 3rd gen brake light switch in the place of the CPP switch for the 2-step.

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Im looking for the Starter Enable relay. Cant seem to find it behind the Drivers kick panel. I thought I had seen a post on here somewhere that had a pic of this relay in the vehicle. I couldnt find any by searching. Can someone take a pic or post one of the relay installed?

EDIT Found it... Was looking behind the goop stuff. Found it taped to a harness. Probably could have gotten to it without taking the kick panel off.

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know answer? About the CPP that connects to B32

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Bumps idle when clutch is depressed similar to the P/neutral switch but isnt critical for manual cars

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

This week I cleaned the intake and prepped it for paint. Sanding started with some 150 grit to knock down the casting circles on top of each runner. Then I used 500 grit and sanded to smooth the roughness caused by the 150 grit and to smooth out some of the factory finish.


Blew off the dust with air and cleaned off the intake with some soap and water and let dry. Then i masked off the throttle body opening and the intake openings and sprayed 2 coats of Duplicolor Adhesion promoter. The shot some primer down. 4 coats starting with a light coat and finishing with slightly heavier coats.


Also prepped the fuel rail and painted it with a black metallic. Here is a couple shots of it resting on the intake.

Will rough the intake prior to spraying the color on, more to follow on that

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Also started cleaning the block for paint. Cleaned and cleaned the block with some degreaser and parts cleaner. Masked the machined areas off so that they dont get painted. Painted the oil pan, heads and balancer with Duplicolor, Aluminum engine enamel. Once there is 2or 3 coats on those, I will mask those so that I can paint the block and valley cover burnt orange.

86White_T/A305

Thats one bright engine bay color..love it.Great work..looking forward to seeing the end results.

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Mocked up a bracket for the 4th gen wiper fluid bottle today. Used some flat steel and square tube that I had laying around. It drops the the bottle down from upper radiator support 5 inches and is 22 inches wide. Its pretty solid once its bolted down. It will be a few inches below the stock "cover" that will be in place once complete. Undecided if I will put a hole in cover and put a riser in washer bottle to rise it up flush or just leave it hidden and remove the cover whenever I need to top off the fluid.

Grinded the welds down and smoothed the corners then painted it. Once it dries, I ll install it again for final pics.

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

Finished painting engine today with some Engine paint.

stereojnky

iTrader: (2)

Sweet mod! Thanks for the idea!

jamieschott

iTrader: (2)

I modified the bracket some by adding some more metal to from of piece so that it could be tied into the front bumper support to eliminate some looseness that the reservoir had. Don't have any pics currently of the final product

stereojnky

iTrader: (2)

I've just never seen anyone mount that without modifying either the bracket or the tank. I think I'm going to try a triangular piece with two bolts at the top instead of one.

fastsspr

Hello you finished the project?