Rethinking approach to ls rebuild
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Joined: Dec 2011
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 tbi for now (SLOW)
Transmission: factory auto
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Rethinking approach to ls rebuild
hey guys just ordered my suspension parts to get started on my 92 rs project. I have an ls1 I had planned to rebuild to a 383 until I figured out how much just the rotating assembly would be along with machine work on the block. So my question is what have you guys done for the most power for budget. I would like to have a good loping cam for good sound at idle. I need to get the block hot tanked and cylinder walls honed. I would like to keep the budget for the actual motor build around or under 2000 dollars. I know ill have to spend around 1000 on new heads. I have the intake and all the other components. I have a stock crank but would like to get new rods and pistons. Can you guys give me a shove in a good direction?
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From: Bethlehem, CT
Car: 1983 Firebird SE
Engine: C5 LS1
Transmission: 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Rethinking approach to ls rebuild
The old saw:Try nosing around this sub forum. Lots of stuff posted here. From what I have seen posted, heads, cam, and long tube headers will go a long way.
For the real loose cannon mechanicals, try LS1 Tech website. They all crazy over there. Big HP, but often $$$s up. BTW, 4th gen headers will NOT fit our cars.
For the real loose cannon mechanicals, try LS1 Tech website. They all crazy over there. Big HP, but often $$$s up. BTW, 4th gen headers will NOT fit our cars.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,263
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From: Canada,Ont
Car: 1987 TransAm Ttop
Engine: 2005 LQ4
Transmission: Ls1 T56
Axle/Gears: 3:54
Re: Rethinking approach to ls rebuild
There are alots of combos that will net you good power without too much trouble.Bigger cubes like a 383..then Id say shop for an lq4/9 or ls2 to start with.
With the ls1 you can save by using stock heads/ported/milled or upgrade to stock 243(ls6) heads and have them ported($500 roughly),you dont have to buy new aftermarket castings and drive your budget way down.Look into eps cams,tsp cams like the torquer 2/3 on a 112lsa or go to ls1tech and speak with pat g about a custom grind cam for your needs(cost the same as off the shelf cams)with supporting pushrods and valve springs,get a decent exhaust setup with headers.And ls6 used intake will help especially on the topend and usually cost $300 used.Stock cranks are very stout pieces from gm,as long as it is within spec..keep it.Resfreshen the block isnt a bad idea if it has high mileage.
Making 400+rwhp isnt far out of the question with those mods if thats what you are after.Realistically I see you spending closer to $3000-3500 at the end for a solid motor build with parts/labor
With the ls1 you can save by using stock heads/ported/milled or upgrade to stock 243(ls6) heads and have them ported($500 roughly),you dont have to buy new aftermarket castings and drive your budget way down.Look into eps cams,tsp cams like the torquer 2/3 on a 112lsa or go to ls1tech and speak with pat g about a custom grind cam for your needs(cost the same as off the shelf cams)with supporting pushrods and valve springs,get a decent exhaust setup with headers.And ls6 used intake will help especially on the topend and usually cost $300 used.Stock cranks are very stout pieces from gm,as long as it is within spec..keep it.Resfreshen the block isnt a bad idea if it has high mileage.
Making 400+rwhp isnt far out of the question with those mods if thats what you are after.Realistically I see you spending closer to $3000-3500 at the end for a solid motor build with parts/labor
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Joined: Mar 2004
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Car: 1984 Camaro
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/4.30
Re: Rethinking approach to ls rebuild
I don't know what kind of past engines you've had and how much HP you're used to/bored with...but for simplicity I think I'd keep the LS1 stock for now and mod later. You'll have enough headaches getting it running, and once its in the car its a lot of fun even stock. Then its time to work on the drivetrain to get it ready for 400+rwhp.
Either way, dig around on people build threads here, read the stickies, and buy a few LS books. Education is key.
Either way, dig around on people build threads here, read the stickies, and buy a few LS books. Education is key.
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I just don't understand that. A loping cam does not equal power.
My son bought a 2001 S10 Blazer that had a 5.3 bored to 5.7 put in it, loping cam, Yank converter, Hughes transmission, 4.10 gears. He's had it dyno tuned. While the Blazer is about 300 pounds heavier than my LS1/4L60E Camaro, the smooth idling untuned Camaro outruns it by almost a second.
A loping cam does not equal power.
My son bought a 2001 S10 Blazer that had a 5.3 bored to 5.7 put in it, loping cam, Yank converter, Hughes transmission, 4.10 gears. He's had it dyno tuned. While the Blazer is about 300 pounds heavier than my LS1/4L60E Camaro, the smooth idling untuned Camaro outruns it by almost a second.
A loping cam does not equal power.
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Joined: Dec 2011
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 tbi for now (SLOW)
Transmission: factory auto
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Rethinking approach to ls rebuild
Sorry, I didnt mean a loping cam for more power. I just meant I like the sound. I know thats gay but I just think the rough idle lope sounds good. I understand in some cases it does not mean anything. On the other hand if I loose it then its not worth it. ha Thanks for the input. Building factory and figuring out the issues is prob a good idea.
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
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Re: Rethinking approach to ls rebuild
Just buy a stock shortblock if you're on a budget.
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