Well after all my hard work shes still being a pain in the ***.

my fuel pump is working, I have power at sensors, coils and fuel rails... I have compression.. 160PSI but it wouldn't start, So i pulled a spark plug out and it was dry.. Went ahead and put some starter fluid into the throttle body and it pops now so I can only assume its getting spark and its not the compression igniting it.

This car was previously LSx swapped and I still have the ECU it used, I only assumed vats was tuned out but maybe I am wrong?

Does grounding R 11 Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable (Factory Only) bypass vats?

I built this harness from two V6 harness, So I have some worry it could have been me, But Since its got power and notthing has blown up yet.. I think I did ok.

 

Crank sensor failure will cause no-start.

Have you verified what fuel pressure you have at the rail? The fuel pump can sound like it's running without actually pressurizing the fuel at the rail.

 

Yes it has fuel pressure, I think it's either crank sensor or vats, are there any wires
I need to ground at the computer for vats?

 

Only thing I've heard about VATS is programming it out.

If the car ran before, it shouldn't be a VATS issue.

 

no fuel injector pulse! but they have power!!!!

If i disconnect the battery, then reconnect it, she fires 3 or 4 cylinders then dies.

What gives!

 

Could be the PCM, but their failure rate is pretty low. But it does happen.

Do the injectors have the same amount of voltage?

The pule signal is sent through the ground, so check your continuity.

 

Ill check my grounds again, It will sputter on starter fluid... So I feel like the computer is atlest sending signal too the coils right?

But I guess I could have one ground not working that it needs for the fuel injectors?

 

Its VATS me thinks. VATS cuts fuel so you need to tune it out of the PCM ( best option ) or you can wire in a VATS bypass module that you either make, or buy. Heck i think I still have one kicking around somewhere

Anyways search it out, you'll find it

 

I know in my lt1 the injector pulse is tied into the ignition/opti. but i dont think thats the case in LS series motors, so might be VATS.

If you dont want to bust out the coin for a tune, you can get a VATS bypass module off ebay for 20$ or so. Pretty simple install

 

isnt vats will start run great and then die after around 2 secs exactly like if you were idling and killed the fuel pump

 

no grounds go to the injectors each injector wire has 2 wires a ignition on and a second wire that goes to the ecm. are you sure your using the correct 97 wiring schematic and not a 99+

 

So i put a test light on the injectors, The hot with key on is working fine, But the signal wire on the other hand... When I put the test light on the signal wire of the injector, the injector fires and the light comes on and stays on...

I checked my grounds, they are working.. there are 3 PCM grounds correct?

What else could it be?! This is something simple..

 

red 72, 76 blue 60,21 make sure you have power all times at pin blue 61

 

ok I was missing blue 21, but the result is the same as above.

 

did you check pin 61?

 

should have 12volts with key off and on

 

yes pin 61 has 12v constant, its wired straight up too the battery at the moment.

 

red 33 should be inj 1
red 23 should be inj 2
red 9 should be inj 3
red 15 should be inj 5
red 6 should be inj 6
red 27 should be inj 7
red 31 should be inj 8

blue 20 should have power with key off
blue 19 should have power with ignition



Double check those thats everything you need to run

 

cylinder 1,3,5,7 is the driver side.
cylinder 2,4,6,8 is the passanger side.

 

Ok the car now has a check engine light for the crank sensor, Ita only getting 5v..i thought it needed 12v?

 

yes should be 12v sounds like you have the wires in the wrong spot

blue 44 pin A
red 22 pin b
red 62 pin C

pin C should have 12v

 

got it running!

ill post up a build thread later..

heres what I got for now, with the vats needin to be tuned out