arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Operation Frankenstein


Before I get to deep I just wanted to thank the people on this forum for there swap guides, and the information they have put up and linked.
Now as the tittle says i'm putting 6.0 into a 85 T/A, and here is some specifics.

85 T/A bought from friend, just a shell only has cosmetics and rear end, very clean though no major rust at all.

6.0 01 Has 200k miles (I know it was a risk to buy it but the cylinders seem good)

Th350 turbo Rebuild by friend got a great deal on it

9 bolt burg rear end. (we think it is 3.23 posy)

Other than that just the basic swap parts If you have any question just ask me and I would be glad to answer them.

Things I have leaned.
1. The 6.0 that I have did not need an adapter or anything to bolt up to a Th350 turbo trans.

Disclaimer: I am new at this so I could be wrong in some areas... just sayin.

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You don't need an adapter for the bellhousing, but you do need either a flexplate adapter, or a specially-built torque converter.

I assume you noticed you lose one bellhousing bolt in the process, though. It's already weakened by only being supported on the top side. One of the improvements with the LS series engines is getting support from the bottom. The 4L80E used a cast aluminum lower cover that had two bolts pick up the oil pan. With a little modification, it can be used with the older transmissions and LS series pan. My son's S10 Blazer with 5.7 LS & earlier 4L60E had this cover added to it.

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

I did notice that but I was hopping by using grade 10.9 (metric grade 8) I would be able to get around that. But, by the sounds of that I might be wrong.
Option two might be drilling and taping the block but i'm not sure if that is an okay thing to do.

Also this is my first time doing something like this so i'm sure i'm going to run into problems like this.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It's the transmission bellhousing that is weakened. Better bolts is a good idea, but won't change the stresses on the bellhousing.

The water jacket is too thin where that bolt is missing. That's why the factory left it out.

If you don't have the flexplate spacer (there are also specially-built flexplates for the swap), the torque converter doesn't properly engage the front pump. You can break either the TC or pump. If your 6.0 had a 4L80E behind it, the flexplate will already have the adapter.

Are you going to keep it FI? If so, are you keeping the truck intake? A stock hood won't fit with it. Also, how are you going to get the VSS signal to the PCM?

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

With two people worried about (talked to another guy) it seems like i'm going to have to fix the bell housing problem (were is a good place to get one of those), and yes the spacer was already on the engine, trust me I bought it then got very confused and then we figured it out.

And as of right now I am going to try and keep it FI and also for now keep the truck intake (and I am aware of the hood issue.) However I have no idea how I am going to get the VSS signal to the PCM.

(Were going to have a lot of trial and error with the wiring/pcm just need to be careful not to break anything)
Also I thank you for taking time for this, i'm not really sure on the subtle parts of the swap and you are saving me much time and headache.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The p/n for the lower cover is 15765623. Goggled it, prices ranged from $55 to $95 new. Might be able to find it cheaper used. It would be installed on 2000-up trucks & vans, mostly 3500 but may be in some 2500.

I'm not sure what to tell you about VSS. There may be some cable adapter out there that will put out the required 4000 pulses per mile, but most that I found in a quick look didn't go that high. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Found an older thread about it
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ensor-5-a.html
looks like it's not going to be to bad. But, then again with this swap nothing is as easy as it seems lol.

NemeSS-TyranT

iTrader: (1)

Looking forward to finished car.
A ls6 intake will solve the hood problem.
You can keep the truck crank pulley snd use car intake.
Just have to use 97-98 bolted pulley car water pump.
Space the pulley .625. Works.perfect. Ive done this on 2 other swaps.

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

i used the car intake on my build with all the truck acc. take a look at my build thread in my sig to see how i did it.

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Update
Going to order some Stainless works 1-3/4" x 3" headers on Friday (unless someone has some laying around they would like to sell)

Also was wanting to get some opinions on a sub frame. Was planning on taking it to work and basically reinforcing the hole bottom side of the car but, i'm not sure exactly what the best things to do as far as that.

Also @Brando Very clever.

brdofpry85ta

iTrader: (1)

hey, good luck on the swap..

I noticed that you said that you are going to stick with the truck intake....I have a stock LS1 intake for sale, it came of my ex's 2000 WS6....

Here is the link.... http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/pts/3540947865.html

There is nithing wrong with it. I took it off and installed a FAST 90/90 intake/TB combo.....

let me know if you are interested.....

Prokilllsx

Good luck with the build. Looks like you are headed the right direction by knowing when to ask for help.

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Update.
After playing with it for a couple of nights now I have decided that i'm going to scrap the EFI (for now maybe go back in the future) and swap it over to a carb.
Probably going to use this kit
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...ductId=2379912

Thoughts?

lunati397

makes great power for the setup that with ls3 heads and a showroom stock cam made 505 hp

its real nice setup looks clean makes good power and get a wideband and get that carb tuned in and you will hang and pass most LS setups and still get dcent fuel milage

Ive done MANY LS swaps and after 1000s of dollars staying EFI I want one to say hell lets do the carb but havent had one yet

Keep us posted I am sure you will be happy

Richboll

I'd like to see some photos of the finished project. Let us know how it goes. Good luck with it.

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

@lunati397 I know the article you are talking about and that is what helped me decide to go this way. And the fact that I don't have the knowledge or equipment to do EFI.

And if all things go as planned (and summit gets my parts to me on before the weekend.) I should be able to do a start up this weekend. (A video and pics will be up if that happens)

lunati397

you may still be able to get a set of ls3 heads for 325 ea from a dealership the price went to 499 ea on jan 1st

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Update time:
As of right now we have the new intake on, and the engine back in.
Still need to plum every thing, and install new fuel pump.
Then we begin the little touches.

lunati397

looks good

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Solved the problem
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=598497943511547

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Update time:
Car runs great (thou we can only run it for seconds at a time) and we have the drive line all hooked up, so it moves! (fist time that car has moved on it's own in 9 years)
As of right now i'm waiting for some parts (snow storms slowing things down) and should have the coolant system up and running this weekend.
Also happening this weekend the car will go into primer and if things go very well also into paint.
Then it's ill get it licensed and take it to my work and make a better trans/turq arm mount.

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Got busy over the weekend
Got the coolant system running (Except the fan)
And put it in primer (probably going to be like that till end of summer or fall.

Richboll

Nice progress!

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Thanks we have been working our asses of on the thing for the last couple of months. Can't wait till summer and it get's to the track.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Looks good man, nice work!

arustedspork

iTrader: (1)

Alright problem time again, and it's a fun subject.
Right now I have an alternator for a 2001 Chevy 2500 HD (same truck my engine is out of lq4 btw in case of confusion) and I have tried almost everything blew two alternators and still no juice. Running a 12v switched with a 470 ohm resister 1/2 watt to pin B and nothing. Tried running that and a 12 volt to pin C and still nothing. I don't want to hook up 12v to pin B and fry this one out (the guys at auto parts store only like me so much.) Andy ideas?
Also the ALT is a Reman, think I should get a shiny new one I have herd of people having problems with them in the past.

Also in other news the car is doing good runs drives more pics and updates to come.

BlackMamba

iTrader: (6)

Looks good man
I'm thinking as well to do a LSX carb set up

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Looks great. I have done two carbed Ls third gen TAs. Worth it all day.