I am at the end of my swap (and have been for sadly some time). Lights come on and the engine cranks but not getting any spark (or starting fluid would have worked) nor fuel (no gas smell in exhaust). I have tried shorting the fuel pump on to bypass the '95 fuel pump relay I installed and no difference.

I have installed a 6-way fuse box that pulls power from the starter and on it I have:
* 30A circuit for the Walbro 255 pump and relay
* 7.5A circuit for C100 pin A (pink): Injectors (fuse #9 underhood)
* 7.5A circuit for C105 pin B (pink): Injectors (fuse #10 underhood)
* 15A circuit for C230 pin G (pink): Ignition power feed (fuse #5 underhood)
* 15A circuit for C100 pin D (orange): Power feed to PCM (fuse #8 underhood)

I have VATS override currently hooked up to the radio switched power which isn't working nor would it (not sure why I didn't remember radio isn't hot while cranking).

I honestly need to run a feed for switched power to the fuse box and move the always hot circuits over to the main fuse box but cannot figure out where to source it from.

Does the braided copper strap ground location matter or can it be pinched between washers and the like on the shock tower? Probably will relocate this anyways but throwing it out there in case its what is killing me.

I read a post Pocket had made saying all pink wires get switched 12V and orange get constant 12V. Does this include the Spark Retard circuit for Performance/Traction or is that omitted? Thanks in advance for help. I have been beating my head against this project since February and am anxious to get it on the road.

 

Rewired VATS bypass into aux. fuse box and now car almost starts on aether. Thought I would update this in case anyone was having this issue.


Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

 

im guessing you are dealing with a 93 lt1. un hook your battery then unhook all 4 plugs from the ecm. (((DO NOT BACK PROBE WITH ECM HOOKED UP.))) then hook your battery back up. then check the green ecm plug pin 6 orange wire battery feed for power. next check 12 ignition feed pink for power (key on). then pin 17 battery feed orange. if all is good go to red plug pin 6 blk/wht ecm ground & 17 blk/wht and #22 tan/wht all should ohm 0 . your vats should be 30hz and hooked to gray ecm plug pin #19 dk blu. hope this helps and either is very bad use gas in a squirt bottle if you have to use something.

 

Motor is from a 95 actually. Unsure why I failed to mention that in my first post. Going to hopefully hook up the NOID light this weekend.

Also, why is ether (starting fluid) bad? Risk of backfire?


Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

 

How did you override your VATS system? I have a 1997 LT1, in a 86 IROC, do not have the 97 key, and I am hoping there is a way to override the VATS system.

 

http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/

I installed a device like this to supply the required 30Hz signal to the PCM. As for why I wasn't able to get the engine to start, it turned out that the Ignition Control Module had gone bad from the engine having sat around for months without use. Once I replaced that, it fired right up.

I'll help how I can but don't have the car anymore. Bad headgaskets and no time to work on it.