I've actually had my swap running for awhile now but the car has been sitting because of lack of funds and doing other work the car needed...anyway with the key OFF and laying in my lap if I turn the parking lights on the fuel pump will cycle. If I have the parking lights on and move the turn signal stalk the fuel pump will cycle. My turn signals are also not working correctly now as we'll. the car is a 86 and was a lg4/700r car. Pocket built the engine harness and nothing else electrical wise has been touched.

 

Have you run this by Pocket to see if he has any ideas? He's pretty good with this stuff.

It occurs to me that a PO might have done some non-standard mods on the wiring in your car, and made it all work with the old setup... but now, with a different engine harness, it is now a problem. Just a guess.

 

Thats a new one on me

I do know for sure the fuel pump circuit and any exterior light should never be associated in the same sentence. They are completely different and fed from different paths

These are for a 90-92 but the basic route is the same. You can see the ext lighting starts at the fuseblock and it constant hot until it is turned on
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...ithout_T61.jpg

The fuel pump relay circuit is completely different. It draws main power from the battery through an external fuse joined with the PCM. EFI to EFI swaps had the external fuse near the battery, carb to EFI swaps have this merged into the fuseblock that controls the rest of the engine circuits
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...ta_sensors.jpg

To track down the crossed wire for your issue, Id start inside the car, likely under the steering column as many circuits are physically close together. An unsuspecting mechanic could easily mix up the many same color/size wires that control completely different things

 

Check your grounds and check your connectors , look for green or white corrosion and make sure your grounds are clean and tight.

 

Well I've had the car for the last 9 and a half years or so and the only odd thing I ever found with any wiring is the power wire for the radio otherwise everything seems fine. However around the time I got the car the ignition switch went bad and I replaced it with a autozone unit and a friends dad did the work. Never really had any issues other than he slightly broke part of the little plastic piece for the horn trigger. I could sometimes make the horn sound with the wheel locked if I would turn it against the lock haha.

 

Messed around a little more and my fender parking lights/turn signals do NOT work at all and nor do my fog lights not sure if maybe I have the wiring for those grounding somewhere causing this or not but ill investigate some more.

 

thats a new one,umm first thing id suggest to you is remove the fuse for parking lights and see if the pump still turns on if you turn the parking light switch on. somehow i think you have wires that have eventually been split open and are touching together.if the car was parked long enough..you might have a unwelcomed friend chew a few things up and you need to thoroughly inspect underhood and under dash wires.

you also say the turn signals do not work properly,what are they doing exactly..flash weird or stay on..or just nothing happens?

 

If I turn on a turn signal it will do nothing at all. I can turn on my hazard lights and all the correct lights BUT the fender lights will flash. The fender lights will not come on when I turn on the parking lights also. Iva had the fenders/hood/bumper off the car at some point also. Never found any sign of any critters but I guess it's possible. I've had two different sets of bulbs in the lights also just to be sure I didn't have bad bulbs and still nothing. At first I just wanted to get the lights to work so I could get the thing inspected but I'm now thinking its more to it than some bad bulbs lol. It's starting to drive me nuts though. The car has sat so long and I'm ready to drive it some.

 

wow thats truly odd.ive had a bad headlight switch on this car when i first got it that did some very unusual things with my turn signals/headlights and when i took it out..saw it was burnt and partially melted contacts together.luckily i had a spare and all was well.

but this doesnt explain your second issue of the fuel pump turning on either.if you turn the hazards on and the key is off..the fuel pump doesnt cycle correct? you had the swap done and running for awhile and this wasnt an issue before it was sitting for awhile or was this always an problem needing to be fixed?

 

Alright in like late 07 or early 08 I pulled the 305/th350 setup out that I had in the car. It sat in moms driveway till sometime in like late 08 then it was in the back yard covered up. Then in like June of 09 it was put into a storage unit and sat there till around November of 2010 when I bought my house. I got the swap running in may of 2011 but the car still needed so much from sitting that with money and time I've just now finally gotten to the point where I can drive it. I never had this issue when it still had the sbc.

 

ok hmm,well being is was an lg4 car before..the wiring for the chassis isnt too complicated.I would first look at the fuel pump relay circuit.Its being triggered somehow by something that isnt the ecm,are you running a carb or injected ls swap? the idea is to isolate the signal turning the pump on.

if your carbed..i assume the fuel pump is wired to an ignition hot in run source,if injected..then the fuel pump should only be triggered by the ecm.where ever this is spliced in should lead to the culprit.do you have a multimeter or test light handy?

 

I am fuel fuel injected now the way pocket built my harness I have a set of relays by the battery and the PCM is or will be mounted in the factory location. It's currently still laying on the passenger side floor so I can easily access it.

 

well solving the fuel pump shouldnt be difficult then,you need to go to the fuel pump relay. i dont know what wire colors pocket wouldve used on the harness so i cant tell you which colors to be testing.unplug the relay,you should be able to find the main 12v battery feed wire probing the relay harness.the rest of the wires you are going to probe with the key off and turn the lights on and see if they get a ground...or a 12v signal.whichever wire is responding with the lights need to be traced from the relay harness all the way to its source of signal and corrected.