camaro1185

So yeah those SS wheels...are they up for grabs or are you using those? I have been looking for a pair of those for while!

TP355Z

Trying to get caught up with my thread before Friday comes. I've got Friday --> Monday off and am aiming to get a LOT done.

While I was home this Monday the garage delivered the plucked LT1, complete with entire car/engine harness. I'll have some separating to do...what a mess!

I also finished scuffing the rust encapsulator with 320 grit paper.

The plan for Friday is to start spraying at 8 AM. Tangerine base, then the pearl / gold flake will go on top. Finally the clear.

By the end of Friday I hope to have a beautiful engine bay to show off! That leaves Saturday for it to cure before I start re-installing the front suspension.

Hold on tight TGO - the fun part is about to start!! Giggity giggity goo.

TP355Z

Forgot to attach the motor picture...I suck at this...

R13_Braz

Holy mother of confusion, Batman...

TP355Z

Confusion = the ugly harness?

If so, yes, I agree. Mild coronary looking at that mess. But I'll figure it out!

TP355Z

The base coat has been laid! So far everything is going well today. The only hiccup was minor: I bought 3 cans of base coat and actually needed 7, so that was a revelation.

Now I've got 3 cans of pearl/gold flake to lay down, then the clear.

Everything is proceeding as I have forseen it...

TP355Z

Yesterday I spent a few hours doing 'easy' stuff - mostly bead blasting nuts / bolts / etc and got a new steering box. The old one was probably ok - but since the car was born an RS, it didn't have the IROC performance box. Removing the pitman arm from the old box required 2 tools: an arm puller (which bowed considerably) and finally, a big-red-wrench.

Today was the first time I've bolted something back onto the front of the car in 10 years. It's funny - just having to move the jack-stands so I could get the k-member installed felt like a milestone...

This coming weekend I'll shoot to get the rest of the front suspension put together. Should be easy enough. In the meantime I've got a big shopping list starting to pile up...

PS - if any of you guys don't watch Roadkill on youtube - you NEED to. Awesome program featuring Finnegan and Frieburger (formerly of Car Craft). It's a real representation of what car crafting looks like, unlike what you find on mainstream TV channels.

R13_Braz

Man, that is an eye-popper! Very nice sir!

TP355Z

Got some stuff on order last night. Now I get why those car-show guys on TV are always smiling. Car crafting is fun when you only touch clean, rust-free, new hardware!!

- BMR battery relocation kit
- Wiring for aux gauges and reloc. battery
- Pre-bent brake lines from Hawks TG
- AC delete box for firewall from Hawks TG

This weekend I'll finish putting the front suspension / steering together...

mikezohsix

Grass hopper, don't you understand that GM oil leaks were incorporated by the design staff in the late 80's to prevent the corrosion that was plaguing the brand at that time. The thought developed by a team of engineers and financial people, if it leaks enough oil, it's automatic undercoating, and can not rust. Kinda like a Harley automatic chain oiler.


As far as cleaning things up - who would be doing that to a 30 year old car anyway?


I lost track of what you've been doing. It all looks good. You know my thoughts on the LSX and rear discs, but I understand and respect your decisions. You're going to have a piece that you can be proud of for a very long time when you're done.


Put a temporary motor in and drive the sucker!

TP355Z

Well, despite spending half of my weekend being preoccupied, I still got quite a bit done. First: the LT1 came <mostly> apart. This thing was absolutely disgusting. I actually broke out the shop vac to clean the intake before I broke the seal.

The previous owner claimed that the heads had recently been apart, surfaced, new valve job, etc. He also claimed that it had a new water pump and clutch. 100% of what he claimed was totally false - which makes me feel better about making him drive 2 hours to get the rest of his money. But that's a story for another time...

Picture: piggy piggy piggy...

TP355Z

Check this action out: 190,000 miles and zero taper and you can still see cross-hatch! I could probably re-ring it and give it a light hone and run it for another 200k. hahaha.

I'm currently stumped by the harmonic balancer. My Harbor Freight puller kit is flexing like Stretch Armstrong: it's either time for a new puller, or some help from the big red wrench...

TP355Z

I also finally got the front suspension and steering loosely thrown together.

Bummer number 1: my nicely painted (used) mid-link had stripped threads, so I'm picking up a new one tomorrow.

Bummer number 2: my nicely painted (used) shock covers don't work with the AGX shocks and Founders plates. I guess my shocks are going commando for now...

15th ANNI T/A

I just read all 4 pages of your build and the work you are doing is just amazing! I got hooked by your car's back story and then the build itself has been a fun and motivating read for me. Needless to say I have subscribed to your thread.

I am currently working on two cars simultaneously. My recently acquired 15th anniversary TA and my first car (1985 Chevy Impala)that I got from my grandpa when I was 16.

Loving the progress!! keep it up!

TP355Z

Thanks for checking in and for the kind words! This build has been all about love of the car and of the hobby, so its made it easy to be positive and do things right. When you put aside the forum jockeys and the one-ups-manship, car crafting is a ton more fun.

Tonights research project: finding a good deal on some Nitto NT01 DOT legal road race tires.

Today's tech tip: if you need to disconnect the fuel lines off an LT1 intake but don't have the tool, a short section of rubber fuel line (slit on one side) can be used. Just place the fuel line around the intake-side of the fuel line and slide it 'up' into the chassis side QD until it pushes the prongs out of the way. Wiggle and disconnect.

Happy Monday TGO!

TP355Z

Ever notice how the less you push yourself to work on a build, the more you WANT to work on it? In the last 4 days I've put in something like 12 hours on the build (with today off).

The IROC rims went out for media blast and cleaning. In the meantime I'm awaiting 4 BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Comp-2 Tires which are available in 255/50/16 - perfect for a stock rim.

I also continued tearing down the LT1. The heads are in great shape - valve guides and seats look awesome. In addition to the cylinder bores being tip-top, the factory pistons have ZERO wear on the skirts. I'm just going to re-ring this motor, throw a light hone on it, and run it as-is. Even the crank and rod bearings looked awesome. This will save me $2000 that would have gone to rods, pistons, crank, and balancing. I'm pretty pleased.

TP355Z

Also got the T56 cleaned up for my transmission guy. Figured he wouldn't want to work on a filthy scummy mess. I know I wouldn't.

Thanks to a case of brake cleaner, it came out pretty good!

Unfortunately I think my garage is a superfund site now...(VOCs anybody???)

TP355Z

I could use the communities help on a couple questions that came up this weekend...

1. Does anyone know if the shifter for my T56 (see picture on last post) is aftermarket? It looks nothing like a stock T5 shifter, and the gold anodizing seems overkill for an OEM part. Thoughts?

2. What type of fitting are the connections from the fuel sender? I can't quite tell if they're a standard "dash X" connector, NPT, flared, or something else, and since trial-and-error is going to be tough by mail order, I thought I'd ask...

3. Is there any interest in me posting vidoes of the build? I did a couple short vids this weekend to see if I was any good on camera (I am not. lol) but if the pictures work for you guys I'll leave well enough alone. If you'd like a little more personality to the content, I can give it a shot...

Thanks for anyone who offers their $0.02

camaro1185

Yeah that looks like a pro 5.0 shifter. Its not stock. I have a stock one I can post a picture of.

Id like to see the video of the the build!

TP355Z

Alright, I'll try putting together a half-way decent video. Maybe for the motor autopsy.

Lighting and my 2001 circa camera are going to be the limiting factors...you guys are ok if I film in 120p? lol

TP355Z

Morning TGO,

Tadaa! Painted rims as of yesterday. I used a SEM self-etching primer and a single stage paint (rattle can) from PPG. Came out pretty well. Only had one minor hiccup...

After carefully finishing the last rim (propped up on a milk crate) I turned to go back in the garage only to hear the distinct sound of a rim falling onto my gravel driveway. Nicks, dings, and debris all over the nice fresh paint. I was fuming.

But after a couple hours (to let the paint kick) I was able to blend it and re-shoot. Alls well that ends well.

The color is "polar white".

TP355Z

"One step forward and two steps back, nobody gets too far like that"

Well, today I'm a nobody. Went to test fit my new LS1 calipers/rotors and I found that the rotors are a very loose fit on the modified hubs - probably something in the neighborhood of 0.015" clearance.

Common sense tells me that this is no bueno, so I tried another set of rotors from NAPA - same result. Now I'm stumped. Time to email Mr. Bigbrakeupgrade.com and see what he thinks.

I doubt putting a wobbly rotor together is a good idea.
I'm tempted to use feeler gauges to shim them to center, but that also seems a touch hack.

I was hoping I'd have a roller weekend. Bummah.

camaro1185

Im trying to understand the problem. The rotors generally have a bit of a loose fit, they get tight once the wheel is put on. The back of the wheel comes in contact with the rotor and once bolted down they are solid.

TP355Z

There's 2 kinds of 'play' here:
1. Radially: where you can 'clock' the rotor back and forth on the lugs
2. Concentricity: where the rotor ID doesn't match the hub OD, and the rotor can be offset.

In this case the radial looseness doesn't matter. But having a non-centered rotor would create an imbalance at speed. I don't think having the rim bolted on will somehow center the rotor on the hub.

That said, Scott from Bigbrakeupbrade.com said that the play I'm observing is typical. While I respect his opinion, I'm not comfortable with it. So I found a solution:

1. Measure total gap between hub and rotor
2. Take a feeler gauge 1/2 the thickness of the gap and cut it lengthwise
3. Install rotor, then slip the feeler gauge "shims" between the hub and rotor - now everything is concentric.

I'll upload pics soon. Everything is painted and mocked up, just having a small issue getting the flex lines routed happily. Details...

S76

TP355Z,

Just got caught up on your thread. Nice read. Humorous. Even though I looked at the car recently, reading the thread produced a lot more detail. Nice. You definitely have the drive to pull this off. Keep Digging.

S76, aka Dad.

"Don't confuse me with the facts, I've already made up my mind."

ThirdGen1984

iTrader: (1)

just earned a subscriber because i love the background and the story and the build phase so far, cant wait to see it when she's done

TP355Z

Welcome to the thread 1984 - thanks for saying hi and for the kind words.

It was a couple very frustrating last couple days in car land. I was at my buddy's house last night working on his mid-12 second G8 putting a new diff in. It turned into a debacle but pizza and beer was provided, so all is well. As soon as he sends me some pics I'll do a post on his car. It's nasty.

Today I thought I was going to install my LS1 big brakes. Eventually: I won. But it was a struggle. The issues were:

1. (Documented last week) the hub and rotor didn't fit very well. I turned some 0.010" feeler gauges into shims and now everything is snug.

2. The driver side caliper bracket spacing was NOWHERE near correct. The rotor rubbed on the inside-bottom and had a huge gap on the inside-top. Not good. So I dug a little deeper...

3. When I took the LS1 conversion bracket off the knuckle I found that both the bracket and (lower) knuckle hole were threaded. That's right kids - BOTH. So I had to drill out the knuckle hole (just a pass-thru for the bolt).

4. Once I fixed the bracket I started playing around with shimming / spacers / removing material. 2 hours later I had a reasonable gap between the rotor and caliper bracket. Oddly enough - the passenger side: no issues, though the caliper bracket was still by no means centered.

Hawks HPS pads were used for a little extra ooomph.

TP355Z

So what did I learn? For the LS1 brake mod, if you have any mechanical aptitude or a local machine shop you trust, you're better off modifying your own spindles and making your own adapter plate. I've even seen blueprints on some forums with all the dimensions you need. That way you can test fit things as you go and ensure the work is done right. Brakes are NOT something to hack together.

--Rant---
The quality of work that goes into your vehicle is only as good as you insist upon. Purchased parts don't equal quality. Despite the commercials and advertisements and magazine articles, these companies primary reason for existence is to make $$$$$$$, not to make you happy or make your car go fast.

So if you want it done right - do it yourself!
(Or at least double-check the people that did it for you).
---End Rant---

Tire smoke forever.

92BLKL98

I installed my LS1 big brake kit a few years ago The only problem I've had is the banjo fitting contacts the lower control arm on a turn to the lock when the pads are worn to about 1/3 pad left not good caused a fluid leak. I may try a set of tubular control arms or at the least try to grind a relief in the control arm (not too crazy about that though). I also installed a set of braided SS lines on the car. These brakes flat out work, but that issue wont fly.

TP355Z

I expect I'll be thrilled with the results. It just bothers me that the "hidden" worksmanship was so poor. A trial fit of a rotor/caliper bracket would have shown that one of my spindles was machined wrong.

Shrug. What can ya do.

The banjo-interference is an acceptable side-effect to me though. You can't expect the guy to sell us modified a-arms too. Gotta draw the line somewhere.

TP355Z

As promised: the G8 story...

My buddy Max has a 2008 G8 GT that's had the bolt-on book thrown at it. With traction the car has destroyed (1) carrier bearing on the driveshaft and the poly diff bushings (!!) he upgraded to. This led to a vibration and some bad diff noises.

Friday night the plan was to remove the axle-shafts (leaving the stubs in place), drop the diff, swap the diff, then do burnouts.

Turns out - contrary to what the 1300hp axle vendor told him, you cannot remove the center-section of the axles without unbolting some of the suspension (voiding the alignment - d'oh!). So after 7 hours of wrenching and fighting the car, we had 1 axle out and that was it. We felt pretty defeated.

Resume Sunday morning with our lessons learned, we got the other axle out, dropped the diff, and did a quick autopsy. It appeared that the spider gears in the diff were smoked because there was a lot of play in the output shafts (up/down - in/out).

The new diff went in and most of the bad noises / clunks were gone. There's still a vibration at speed, but my money is on the carrier bearing (on the NEW oem driveshaft) being trashed again - it had a lot of play and had sprayed grease on the tunnel.

Time for him to finally install that carbon fibre driveshaft I suppose...

Enjoy the sexiness pictures!

92BLKL98

No, not really acceptable to me. I would like to have known to be on the look out before I pumped my front brake hydraulics dry because the fitting contacting the control arm and cracking the banjo bolt. I would have addressed it at the time I installed the kit. One thing I've learned in my 40+ years of hot rodding is that for every mod you make on a factory built car expect to mod something else to compensate for the previous mod. This is a serious safety issue, since I am so deep into it I am probably going to replace the factory control arms with tubular control arms. Don't get me wrong here I'm not ticked with Scott at bigbrakeupgrade.com he has a decent product that addresses some of the performance shortcomings of the third gens. We just need to be aware of this beforehand.

TP355Z

Fair enough. I'd have put a banner in bright red on the web-site, or included a print-out of instructions warning as much.

Either way - it's documented here now. Caveat emptor!

Just ordered new brake booster, master cylinder, and entire clutch-line for the T-56. Pedals are painted and drying - pics soon.

TP355Z

More goodies! New brake booster / master cylinder and clutch parts. I didn't know I'd have to re-use the stock braided line for the clutch, but I suppose that's okay...with the SS jacket I think the odds of it blowing out are low...

Tomorrow: paint!

TP355Z

Today was all about the firewall. Some victories...some fails...

Pedal assembly - total victory. I bought a package of various thickness shims to take some of the play out of the pedals. Grease the plastic bushings, install pedals / shims, and slowly tighten down. You'd think my 200,000 mile LT1 pedals had 2,000 miles on them.

Clutch assembly - this was a bit of a fail. I wrestled getting the 3rd gen brake booster in with the 4th gen pedals (less accelerator pedal) then put in the clutch master cylinder. Unfortunately the alignment was off by quite a bit - maybe a 1/2". This means I had to either butcher my firewall to move the master cylinder over, or figure out a way to shim the T56 master cylinder.

I've opted for the shim solution. I'm going to try to order some high-temp plastic from McMaster so I can fabricate something up. If I '****' the master cylinder just a little, everything lines up. I think this is do-able...

Steve Mack

iTrader: (5)

Those pedals look brand new.

TP355Z

These last few weeks have been the part of the build that tests your commitment. First it was the snafu with the LS1 brakes. Then it was this weekends debacle: getting the T56 clutch married to the IROC.

I'll spare everyone the gory details, but after 3 hours and zero success, my beautiful, slop-free 4th gen pedals came OUT and the 3rd gen pedals went back in. Nothing I could do fixed the clutch-rod being severely cocked. So here's what I learned...

HOW TO MAKE 3rd GEN PEDALS WORK
1. The 3rd gen clutch pedal stud is thicker than the 4th gen. I 'machined it' with an abrasive wheel in a zippo.

2. The 3rd gen clutch pedal stud is SHORTER than the 4th gen. The fix here was to remove the shoulders from the 4th gen clutch rod bushing.

3. The 3rd gen pedals are quite a bit beefier than the 4th gen pedals. In the end, I'm glad they went back in...my neck, back, and arms however don't share my appreciation of the situation.

And I already had new rubber pads for them, so at least from the driver's seat I still have sexy looking pedals.

TP355Z

After resolving the clutch issue I stripped / painted my SFC brackets and hood hinges (which will be installed tomorrow or Monday).

I also mounted the Hawks AC Delete Box. More learning to be done here...

HOW TO MAKE THE HAWKS BOX WORK...

1. If you're like me and you hacked your AC box off the firewall without unbolting it from inside, you now have a problem - how do you bolt up the new heater box? The top 3 bolt-holes of the Hawks piece match tapped holes in the firewall. But the the rest line-up with the old box bolt holes that are now open and unthreaded.

2. I used plastic 'push-in' body buttons (like the kind that hold your door panels on). If you get the double-shoulder kind, you can screw them into the firewall, leaving the shaft protruding into the engine bay. (Advance Auto carries 2" long ones that worked GREAT). Drill the holes in the box to match, then just "push-on" the heater box to secure it. If you get long enough buttons you can grab one end with pliers and pull the heater box tight to the firewall. Then just cut off the excess.

3. Huge headache finding the right blower motor/fan. In short: there are 2 styles of blower motor. One has a nearly-round flange and the other is more angular, with several straight edges. YOU NEED THE ROUND FAN MOTOR. It's PN PM102 (35587 equivalent) from AutoZone, then you need fan PN 35602.

I've got the parts on order, should know by tomorrow whether I've won or not.

I'm dying to post an engine-bay picture with all the progress, but I want to wait until I have as many parts bolted in as possible.

Pictures are coming!!!!!

TP355Z

Picture of the Hawks box installed. Bolts holding it from the top, push-clips holding it from below. Not awful...

Also got the BMR battery relocation bracket installed. Very straight forward, and honestly, in the third gen it fits like a glove. I used adhesive-backed rubber strips anywhere it touched the chassis to prevent rubbing or squeaks.

Now I just need to figure out how to wire it...

TP355Z

Also picked up the short-block from the machine shop yesterday. Everything was hot-tanked and washed clean - for 200,000 mile parts they look really good.

My 'motor guy' is Joe from Earl's Engine Machine in Stafford CT. He basically runs the show alone and is very detailed oriented. You guys think that I'm OCD? Joe puts me to shame - but he doesn't charge up the nose. He's working to focus the business on street/strip and purpose-built-strip motors and has the tools to do it. His motors are in several 9 to 11 second cars and there isn't anybody else I trust. Right now he's up to his eyeballs in work - so he's available by appointment only - but if you're in the area and want to do business with an honest guy, look him up.

He mic'd up the crank, pistons, and block and everything looked A-OK, so now I can mockup the bottom end and see how much we have to deck this thing...

camaro1185

Sounds like a good way to figure out the the pedal problems. I had both 3rd and 4th gen pedals for my swap I took the pivot from the 4th gen pedals and mounted it to the 3rd gen. It works excellent for me!

TP355Z

Goodies!

Harness clips of varying sizes from Clips And Fasteners.
Autometer oil temperature gauge.
AEM wideband O2 sensor.
35602 squirrel cage for my blower motor.
Heater blower resistor.

I need another 5 day weekend to work on the car!

TP355Z

Got a few things sorted over the last week.
- Pillar gauges installed
- Mid-gauges installed
- Heater box FINALLY finished

Wire management was the name of the game with the gauges. Everything was either taped, shrink-tubed, or installed with convoluted tubing. Since my cruise control is long-gone, I used the vacuum-line pass-thru in the firewall for my aux-gauge wiring. It'll look pretty clean when it's done.

To mount the trips pod (upside down) I ordered some 1/8" plastic stock from McMaster Carr, cut it to shape, and used a combination screws / double-sided tape to secure it to the bottom of the dash.

Funny thing - the dash had a little removeable cover (for a night-light?) that allowed perfect access for the pretty-big gauge harness. If I ever remove the pod, you'll never know it was there.

WTR388

Awesome build man.

Thanks for bringing up your issue with the C5 conversion, planning on doing that to my car. Luckily right now in my training we're in our machining phase and hopefully I'll get some spare time to machine down my own hubs, figure I'll bring it to a .001 clearance between my hub and the C5 rotor and call it good lol.

TP355Z

Hey WTR - I'm glad my info proved helpful. In the end, while it's fun to do the thread, it's nice knowing it's helped others.

Last night I came to the conclusion that it's way to frickin' hard to make seals for my sport-coupe wing.

If anyone has a 1988 SC rear wing with the factory plastic gaskets please LMK. I'll post something in the "wanted" ads too.

Bummer! I'd really like to avoid painting a new spoiler and rear deck...yuck.

TP355Z

Not much to report this weekend that's sexy to show. Got the deck-height measurements taken on the LT1 block, now that has to go back to the machine shop...

I did buy a new daily driver though...plan is to drive it in salt/sand-free weather only. The truck will cover the rest.

This makes the life-car-tally: 13

In order of least to most recent...

Mazda 3-something-something (Sold)
1990 Honda Accord (Sold)
1985 IROC Parts Car (Parted)
1987 Camaro V6 Parts Car (Parted)
1988 Camaro RS (Orange Car - Still Have)
1998 Nissan Maxima (Sold)
1984 Mustang GT (Still Have)
2005 Caddy CTS-V (Sold)
2004 S-10 (Traded)
2005 Ford 500 (Sold)
2002 Dodge 2500 (Still Have)
1995 Z28 Camaro (Parts Car)
2006 Pontiac GTO (Just Got!)

Details on the newbie:
2006 Pontiac GTO
6.0L LS2
4L65E Trans
3.42 Gears
66,000 Miles
STOCK STOCK STOCK

It looks like the car's never been driven - the previous owner was almost as OCD as I am. Perfect

TP355Z

Hey TGO,

It's been a few weeks - I wish I had more to report, but here's the latest and greatest:

Got some new (used) interior panels from Hawks. I had a few red / tan panels that I had painted to match the black, but over time they've chipped, flaked, and been scratched to the original color - didn't look great. For a couple hundred bucks I got a box the size of a coffin from Hawks with nice clean black panels. I've got a huge box of Dynamat to put down first though. At least the interior is coming together...

The 200,000 mile T-56 is currently being rebuilt too. My guy @ Don's Ring & Pinion said it looked awesome inside, just needed syncros and small parts. Cool.

TP355Z

While waiting on interior parts I figured out some looming details for the LT1...
- Comp Cams 503 w/Beehive springs
- Manley Street Flo valves
- 1.6 RR (brand TBD)
- Rocker stud girdle
- 52mm TB
- 10.75:1 compression (slight bump)
- ARP main studs
- Canton road-race pan w/windage & baffling

I also spent a few hours gasket matching and porting the heads. Mine had really poorly finished casting parting lines...even though my work isn't close to even a LE1 head, I'm hoping they breathe better than before...

Intake runners: before and after...

TP355Z

A few more. The exhaust pic shows how much larger the gasket port is, and the other two show the exh/int valve guide with the extra casting material cut down.

For those curious, here's what I did.

TOOLS
- Pneumatic cut-off tool (die-grinder), straight head (NOT 90 degree)
- Eastwood porting kit PN 46056
- Various cutting tools (see www.carbidebur.com for good visuals)

STEPS
- Use a sharpie to mark the intake / exhaust runners & highlight where there's "extra" material making the head port smaller than the gasket. I recommend using bolts/washers to hold the gasket in place - if you free-hand it and you're off - your head ports won't line up to the gaskets once installed permanently.

- Remove gasket and start cutting with the carbide tools. For the runners, use a cylindrical cutter and keep it parallel to the runner. The goal is to slowly open up the runner until it perfectly matches the gasket. I blended the material removed over the first couple inches of the runner.

- Note: don't hit the sharpied area at a 45 degree angle and 'cheat' by chamfering the leading edge of the runner. This isn't as effective as widening the whole "hallway" evenly...in fact...it's probably worse than leaving it alone.

- To remove the excess casting around the valve guides, I used a cylindrical bit with a radiused end. Go in through the valve opening, hold the die-grinder firmly, and sweep around the valve guide, evenly removing material. You could knife edge it (toward the direction of flow) but I'm not that fancy.

- Lastly, switch to the abrasive porting bits and smooth the runners from intake to valve.

While my approach is nowhere near as effective as a proper CNC job, I maintain that opening up the ports and removing some of the excess casting flashing must do some good.

When I hit the dyno some day we can find out.

TP355Z

Sick as a dog this weekend, but since I'm too stubborn to NOT accomplish SOMETHING I figured I'd start on my wiring harness...

CRC makes a great cleaner (see pic) - if you're cleaning a harness (mine was covered in oil) get a couple cans of this stuff and an old tooth brush. Spray-scrub-spray again. My connectors look great now.

I did find a couple frayed wires near the ECM plugs, and my oil pressure sensor plug came off in my hands (oops!) so I have some soldering to do.