I have a 91 Z28 that has a stock LSD of a pretty high ratio.

I have recently installed a whole bunch of UMI stuff including the torque arm.

My question is this, If I go the T56 and LS1 route what sort of numbers can I put through the stock diff before I have problems?

Secondly do other stronger diff carriers have the same mounting brackets that my UMI torque arm can attach to?

Prob get a better answer in the Driveline Dept


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ns-drivetrain/

If you don't shock the diff, it'll last through a lot of power.

If you buy an aftermarket rear made for '82-'02, you can mount an aftermaket TA. For some reason, though, I've had to trim every aftermarket TA I've used - BMR, Jegster, UMI. Not sure what I'm doing wrong...

What would come under the term shocking the diff?

Dumping the clutch?

If I leave hard with a tiny bit of clutch slip this is okay?

Does pinion angle help any with keeping a diff alive?

Dumping the clutch, yes, especially with sticky tires. Slipping the clutch does help.

Pinion angle is primarily for efficient transfer of power, but excessive angle under power will put more stress on the pinion bearings. Since the primary weakness of the 10-bolt is the case spreading and moving the ring gear away from the pinion, pinion angle isn't much of a player in rear end life.

Is there a way to strengthen the case or any after market products that are based in fact that demonstrably do something?

An aluminum support cover helps. You should have 28 spline axles in a '91, but aftermarket are typically considered stronger than factory.

My beefed-up 10-bolt with 4.10 gears, behind stock LS1/T56 with headers, LS7 clutch, lasted two launches with sticky tires. It probably survived the first launch because it was a low-RPM, total bog affair. I went with a 9" after that.

But the 9" has the same holes and castings to mount my UMI torque arm? Or at least it will bolt onto it?

My guess is no