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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
On my app im getting less than you..about 18mpg. When i had stock ls1 i easily had 22mpg.But honestly i can do better if i was tried and didnt enjoy the sounds after 2500rpm lol.That and ive added weight to the car with the stereo in the back.Doesnt seem like your out of line.tune can always be improved for fuel mileage but that will net some loss in power from what ive heard anyways.
On my app im getting less than you..about 18mpg. When i had stock ls1 i easily had 22mpg.But honestly i can do better if i was tried and didnt enjoy the sounds after 2500rpm lol.That and ive added weight to the car with the stereo in the back.Doesnt seem like your out of line.tune can always be improved for fuel mileage but that will net some loss in power from what ive heard anyways.
im not alone!! , yeh I cant keep my foot out of it especially when i see a mustang. But im doing what i can to drive like an old man to get the most out of it. I think whats throwing me off is my gauge is reading empty when there is still fuel in the tank so im not making the most out of each fillup.
To those of you that have your cars ls swapped what kind of fuel mileage are you getting. I went on a road trip yesterday and was only 19.24 mpg using my app. Could it be the tune or is it just a con of having a 6.0? Any input would be appreciated.
5.3/4L60E/2.73 got mid-high 20's not trying to conserve. Every setups Ive done since then has been considerably less. Now I get 12mpg if Im very gentle on the highway, but Im making 3 times the power as the 5.3
I purchased 750 lb front springs and heavy duty rears but was informed that my car will sit too high? Should i cut a coil so it sits at stock height or will the car settle out over time.
Had the SFC installed today. I did run into an issue with the PO jacking the car in the wrong spot cause one of the weld points had a significant gap but it is being taken care of. Road conditions are not ideal to play around with the car. I ended up having near miss due to ice in the road but when i get a dry day i will see how everything is. I did notice pulling out of the parking lot i no longer hear a creaking sound making turns on hills. Like when i pull into the driveway.
Last edited by punkmaster98; Jan 7, 2015 at 02:21 PM.
Been Dealing with low voltage. I purchased an overdrive pulley for the alternator. Since it has an underdrive pulley kit on it. Hopefully this will resolve my issue
This morning on a cold start I put a meter on the battery. 14.48V I drove around all day and let the car get to normal operating temp and put the meter on it again while it idled. 12.5V
when drive it charges normal but sitting the engine is going fast enough. when i give it gas you see the lights get a bit brighter. The misfire issue was my plugs having the wrong gap. Also the plug wires i had used burned up even with the heat shields. I switched to a different type of plug wire that clears the headers no issue
The over drive pulley is on but i wasnt able to go for a drive with the pending snow. Cold start though was 14.47v and after letting it sit and warm up it only dropped to 14.1v. Im using 76.3in belt and it runs fine but for safe measure I may drop to a smaller size belt cause based on the tick marks the tensioner is close to full extension. When the weather clears Ill take better readings.
If your ammeter drops to 11-12v, then the alt isnt charging at all. You want the belt tensioner to be about 1/2 way at rest, maybe a touch tighter if thats your only belt choice. Belts flare out some at higher RPMs pulling the tensioner tighter and stretch for shock loads (quick revs and AC kicking on) releasing the tensioner. 1/2 way is a safe medium
Ive swapped to a smaller belt now. Did some extended driving and when i return home i checked my meter. 13.38v idling. On the dash it was 1 mark below 13. I know these are not the best guages. I was thinking of installing a digital Meter Flush mounted with the rest of my after market pillar gauges going in to just keep an eye on it.
Thats a touch low, but still within range. Stock gauges arent super accurate, but get the point across. Too low, within range, and overcharge. Same with the coolant. I know its not exactly 195 like it shows, but I can clearly see cool, operating temp and getting hot
Got my 3200 FTI stall today. Was Recommended to me by a fellow member on here as well as Tick Performace. Looking forward to to putting it in. I took My car to a Local reputable trans shop and let them drive my car. To me the one-two shift was very hard and i initially thought something was wrong when i was just driving my swap for the first time. The shop thinks the trans was modified. The second owner of the donor vehicle has no clue. I may just leave the trans alone for the time being. I will be looking into a bigger trans cooler with a built in fan though.
Took my car to advanced to test the electrical system. These were the printed results. Not sure if i should maybe test with a second alt? Battery is brand new as well.
Some thoughts: how is power distribution done in the car - is it like the stock third gen - power distribution at the starter or more 4th gen - meaning heavy wires to a fuse block under the hood, then to cabin.
Also what is the size of the battery cable going to the alternator. You might need better battery cables - look at innvoative solutions LLC. You might also need to ground the engine better.
If you recall the 3rd gen alternator had a couple wires going to the alternator, one of which was hanging on by a thread and caused me to get around 12.5 -13 volts with the tpi. When I fixed it it shot up to 13.5 -14, then slowly creeped down to and held steady at 13. Now with 4th gen power distribution and new cables, it holds steady under load at 13.5 to 14 volts.
Had new springs and steering installed. had to cut the springs cause i forgot the new motor is lighter -_- . 2nd times the charm lol. I had a hard time finding a shop to do the alignment. they denied me after looking at the car. Its good to go now though. One part is a tiny bit out of spec though.
Ran into a snag on the road and was hopefully able to save the motor. Destroyed my oil pan. In the process of replacing it but we pulled the trans and the fluid was burnt so that is a ticking bomb at the moment. I only need it for 2 more weeks and then i go back to work.
Developed this horrible ticking sound. Thought it was the motor after my oil pan disaster. Thankfully it was just the flexplate. I marked the cracks with a marker so you can see it. Replacing it with a thicker street/strip one
Last edited by punkmaster98; May 3, 2015 at 04:37 PM.
As of now i have 17k miles on the swap since finishing in september. Things are going great. As of recent i have been commuting between NJ and VA so im racking up miles very quick the car has overall been running flawless. In the meantime, I had a Hybrid Ford 8.8 built locally. Going to be changing to 3.55 gears.
Currently have 25K miles on the swap and so far so good for the most part. Tonight driving from VA to NJ my LOKAR throttle cable snapped 150 miles from home. Minor bump in the road. Thankfully the lace of my sneaker provided an emergency cable as that was all i had sitting on the side of the road. Not sure whether to get another lokar or get a 4thgen cable.
Get a 99 fourth gen cable and also go find your old TBI cable. Cut out the plastic firewall grommet from the old cable and open up the center so that it fits and locks into the range of the 4th gen grommet. Them secure it of you want even more. To weather proof I also put sealant over mine. Works like a charm and no complaints as of yet.
Lol damn..never heard of a lokar cable snapping.Ive had mine a long time and multiple swaps with no issues.Was it too tight and broke from hard wot snaps? I had mind set too tight and it was just touchy...breathing on the gas pedal would rev the motor lol.
Lol damn..never heard of a lokar cable snapping.Ive had mine a long time and multiple swaps with no issues.Was it too tight and broke from hard wot snaps? I had mind set too tight and it was just touchy...breathing on the gas pedal would rev the motor lol.
Not too tight at all. there was a little amount of slack i had put in it but it it was tighter i assume it would have failed sooner than 25k miles
But im doing what i can to drive like an old man to get the most out of it. I think whats throwing me off is my gauge is reading empty when there is still fuel in the tank so im not making the most out of each fillup. 
