1989 Firebird 2.8L.

Assuming I need to join pins K and C to bypass the buffer box. Problem is there is no pin K at the buffer box. There are 2 connectors, one has pins A through H, and the other connector has two pins with no labels. Am I supposed to use my imagination to pretend the last two are J and K?

Or did I misinterpret guidelines and I'm supposed to join buffer box pin C to the lead that came from C207 pin K?

 

Also, it would REALLY help if somebody could share pinouts for C207 for my exact vehicle. Things just aren't the same as other C207 diagrams I have found.

This is what I have been able to verify using continuity checks. You can see I haven't found my clutch position switch.

A. BRN. Can't verify what this is.
B. PNK/BLK. INJ fuse, switched power
C. BRN/WHT. MIL ground --> connect to R46
D. BRN. FAN fuse
E. WHT/BLK. Can't verify what this is.
F. PNK/BLK ENG-IGN fuse, switched power
G. PNK/BLK. GAGES fuse, switched power
H. TAN/BLK. Can't verify what this is.
J. ORG. Datalink connector (3rd gen)
K. BRN. VSS buffer box --> connect to R50
L. BLU. VATS box
M. BLK/WHT. Vehicle speed buffer ground
N. empty
P. empty
R. PPL/WHT. CRANK fuse, cold start injector

 

I think I sorted out the clutch position switch. It is something on a 4th gen car, but my 3rd gen doesn't have one. Any reason why I can't eliminate the switch and just ground B32 directly to back of cylinder head? Car can't crank without clutch pedal depressing the starter interlock switch, and fuel won't inject without cranking speed. Why not just ground B32 all the time?

 

Regarding speed buffer, C207 pin K goes to buffer box pin F. Don't know why I didn't find that earlier. So the remaining question is, which buffer pin goes to speedometer?

 

I found it. Output to speedometer is pin C.
So I need to disconnect the buffer box and toss it, then join wires from pins F and C.

http://chevythunder.com/fuel%20injec....%20pg%20B.htm

 

Thanks for that link (I knew that site existed but totally forgot about it). It answered a question I had about my yellow VSS box... Looks like I'm tossing that puppy out!

 

Correct, ground B32 and B34.

Buffer box

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...SS_V8_vinE.jpg

post #9 last half
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...6-into-my.html

with Pockets photobucket down this is the best c207 I could find

1988 C207
** 89 Similar,... Add VATS !?

PIN Color From / To (Notes)
A Brn ALDL (pin C) / ECM (AIR control)
B* Pnk (Red) INJ1 TBI (TBI)
B* Pnk/Blk (Pink) INJ1 (V6)
B* Pnk/Blk (Black) INJ1 (TPI)
C* Brn/Wht ECM / CE Light
D* Brown (Tan/Wht ) Fan
E Wht/Blk ALDL (pin B) / ECM (test)
F Pnk/Blk IGN fuse / ECM
G* Pnk/Blk (White) INJ2 TBI (TBI)
G* Pnk/Blk (Pnk/Black) INJ2 / (V6)
G* Pnk/Blk (Black) INJ2 (TPI)
H Tan/Blk ALDL / TCC-ECM (auto)
H Tan/Blk ALDL / Upshift (stick)
J* Org ALDL (pin E) / ECM
K Brn/Yellow (brown) ECM / Buffer
L
M Blk/Wht VSS,P/N switch / Grd
N Org/Blk ECM / P/N switch
P
R Ppl/Wht Crank Fuse / Cold Start-ECM

 

Im not doing anything with the clutch position switch on the ls1 PCM. A bunch of guys have just left that circuit alone as well. That switch is basically a heads up to the ECM that you will be off the throttle with the clutch in. Supposed to prevent stalling but it's apparently not needed its initiated as soon as the clutch pedal starts its travel.
I'm not doing anything different for my starter wiring either, just lettin my stock clutch safety switch do its job.

 

Thanks for the help, guys.

I have 4th gen pedals so I think I'll just get a clutch position switch and use it since it will drop right in. It will bump up idle with AC on and that might be good because I have a fairly radical cam.