The LS engine I am using came out of a 2002 GMC Sierra Denali and it was DBW. So instead of trying to swap over to the cable system I decided I wanted to stick with every thing as stock as possible in regards to the engine. Get the swap done, upgrades and more mods later. What I came up with I was able to knock out in just a few hours with some scrap metal, a welder, and a grinder. Yes I know you can buy brackets and pedal assemblies on line but why spend the money when you don't have to. I first removed the stock pedal and figured out that the best location for the new pedal would be to get the pivot point of the pedal arm in the same spot (or as close as possible). Then the arm length and angle could be modified and you would end up with something that would drive similar to the original pedal.
The truck assembly has 3 return springs, two coil springs on the pivot, and a third little spring on the top of the arm. This third spring is over redundant and it was in the way so it went first. Then I cut the top of the bracket off just above the top mounting hole.

 

The assembly fits neatly into the relatively same space as the original, using the top left stud in the top hole that we left on the truck bracket. This top stud was eventually cut at least half way off (was way to long) and also bent up and to the right in order to straighten it. Next step was to build a bracket to orient the assembly in the correct location and provide a good sturdy mounting surface. I took a piece of flat stock and drilled a hole so the bottom hole of the pedal assy could be bolted to it. Once I held it in place I could determine the length of the first piece to where it would hit the floor on the right side. I also added a leg of flat stock going towards the front until it hit the floor in that direction. These two pieces were welded together to form a simple L bracket. With the assembly bolted with the top stud/nut it could be positioned and adjusted to line up the pedal arm for the best rotation (basically make the arm go straight front to back so it swings in a parallel plane to the brake pedal). Clean off the paint and weld the ends of the L bracket to the floor on both sides. BE CAREFUL with this as the sheet metal is not as thick as you might think. I ended up cleaning the paint off the engine side of the firewall and adding some small metal pads one the engine side to give some thickness for the welding (to eliminate the welds blowing through). Note that the bottom mount hole in the L bracket also has a nut welded on the back side so you don't have to chase that nut around, just stick the bolt in and tighten it. You will notice that the welds look pretty bad, this is due to the amount of paint and contaminants that were still on the surface of the metal, very hard to get all the paint off and that creates issues with the welding. It's plenty strong, and a little black paint and some carpet will cover it up no problem.

 

Next comes the modification to the arm itself. In comparing the old/new I decided to make the initial cuts on the arm as shown with the white paint marker. After cutting the section out and comparing again, I made some slight adjustments prior to tack welding the pieces together. Once the new assembly was in the car I knew that I would need to make at least one more slight adjustment. The current location allows the arm to hit the floor just before the pedal travel bottoms out in the assy. Take into consideration the carpet and padding, it will need to be higher up to allow full travel of the pedal. Since I don't have the seats in tonight I will leave this alone and make final adjustments later. The hard part is done, getting the pedal assy mounted to the floor. This seemed like a simple solution for re-using the pedal I already had, so I wanted to pass this along for anyone that might be thinking of trying something similar.