Awesome. This is going to be a big help in completing the wiring for my swap. Good job, impressive clarity really.

 

Can the Micro-Pack crimp tool be used on the Superseal 1.0?

TE wants $1250 for a crimp tool.
Suddenly $150 for a Micropack ratcheting tool sounds pretty good.

 

I use the Delphi "universal" tool and I have used it on the TE terminals. It works, it's not the "proper" tool though

I should give you my number so you can text me, heh

 

FYI - I did a very minor bit of thread cleanup in prep for this becoming part of a sticky, mostly deleting my own posts about graphics quality and conversations related to that. If you notice one of your own posts gone and want it back then just let me know and I'll restore it. Absolutely nothing was lost related to the technical conversation.

 

I keep reading through this to see new Updates...
And you just keep adding to this Thread and making it better and better!!!


Please delete any or all of my Posts that do not really add to your Threads.
I am perfectly fine with you doing so.


A few things that I meant to add for you:
-One of the Metri-Pack 280.1 Fuel Injector Connectors is incorrectly Posted as #12129440, it should be 12129140.
-There is one more Part Number for Injector Connectors (Grey Seal) #12129142, if you wish to use it... Red Seals are for the smallest Wires.
-If you wish to include any Bootable Connectors, let me know (Injector Connectors for example are available for use with Boots).
-EV6 Connectors also come as a Black Body Connector, #15497399, also the more common CPA used is Green, #15423276.
-Multec-II also use a more common Green CPA #15419346.
-Fuel Tank Bulk-Head Connector #12160482 (also used for Oxygen-Sensors... also in Grey with a different Key-way) originally used CPA #12077979
(just as you have Posted) but do NOT anymore. These Connectors changed over the Years to use the #12020833, #12092054, and the discontinued #15356932.
-The Oil PSI Switch (First in Post #9) is actually an Oil-Pressure Safety Switch and Oil-Pressure Sending-Unit, all in one...
or built as one or the other ONLY. There 6-Versions of the Connector with different Pin-outs... let me know if you want them...
I personally often use the Safety-Switch ONLY version to turn off Fuel-Pump and Ign. Coil Relays (If Oil Pressure goes too low).
I use between 2 to 4 of them per Build.
Examples:



-The #12033769 Connector Posted for the "Boost-A-Pump" is also available in 2 other Versions with different Cable-Seals...
Parts #12066681 (smallest Wire Size Grey Seal) and #12085030 (largest Wire Size Red Seal)... (for electric Fans also)...
Cable Seals for these Connectors, and the EV1 Connectors are available individually without the Connector.
-The Weather-Pack Knock-Sensor Connectors are also available in Grey and White, in case you would like the Part Numbers...
I like to use different Colors, when Two Identical Connectors are used...
Lets say a Black Connector for Knock-Sensor #1 and a White Connector for Knock-Sensor #2. This makes things easier to assemble for the Customer.
-Electronic Throttle-Body Connector #15355294 should be changed to Part #15355297.

I probably missed others... I make these mistakes too, ya know!


AMAZING Job!!!
Especially the Splice CMA Charts!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and the 4L60E Connector Information!!!

I look forward to more!

 

Thanks for double checking! Yes, I keep adding stuff as I see new info here and around the site.

Couple questions:

EV1 injector: What is cable OD range for seal in connector 12129142 (guessing it is comparable with 16-18 AWG)? Somehow I figured it out for the others a couple months ago and now I can't figure it out for the life of me!

Bootable seals: Yes, I'll add that content if you can provide it. Just the other day I saw a boot on one of my stock injector connectors. It looked a lot like that Amp Superseal 1.5 boot you talked about (880811-12)

Oil Pressure Switch: I have the TAXI drawing for the connector so I'm good there. I am only familiar with the 1-pin F-body pressure sensor though. Do you have an example part number of a combination sensor/switch? And the pinout designations?

W/P Knock Sensor: Yes, I'll add the Gray and White color if you have the part numbers.

I made the corrections to EV6, Multec, Fuel Pump, and Holley DBW. Thanks!

 

Just FYI for anybody that uses the APTIV website... it's being "upgraded" as we speak and there is less technical data than before. I'm coming up empty with information that I was able to find on my own a few months ago. All I can say is it's a darn good thing we're getting this info written down here because the data diving just got harder.

 

I am still working on your E-Mail and a response here.

The Combination Oil Pressure Sensor and Safety-Switch Part Number varies for different Vehicles/ OEM Gauges (Resistance Range being the variable) and does not work with Holley EFI for Fuel-Pressure (3-Terminal 5-Volt Sensor required).
I use the Combination Version (without using the Pressure Gauge reading) or just the Safety-Switch ONLY Version with Holley EFI.
I can look up a Part number for the Vehicle/ OEM Gauge (for use with an OEM PCM) that you have (for an Oil Pressure Gauge reading).

I will E-Mail you the Data Sheet for the Connectors used for these Sending-Units.
Terminals C and D are the 2-Contacts for using the Safety-Switch.
Terminal A is used for an Oil Pressure Gauge reading (for most Versions of this Sending-Unit... some Versions use Terminal A for a Low Oil pressure Warning Light).
Terminal B is some times used (Most Combination Sending-Units use Terminals A, C, and D. Without Terminal B)... when Terminal B is used, it is usually for a Low Oil pressure Warning Light.

The Sending-Unit that I usually use with Holley EFI (Safety Switch function ONLY) has 1/8-NPT Threads, GM Part Number: #19244515 (Terminals C and D... I will have to explain to you how to wire it with a 5sec Fuel Pump Prime).

I will get back to you regarding the Multi-Cable Seals for both the Injector and Fan Connectors.

 

The Multi Cable Seals for the Metri-Pack 630 Pull to Seat Connectors are as follows:

-Connector: #12066681/ Grey Seal: #12066680 =1.90mm - 2.64mm.
-Connector: #12033769/ Green Seal: #12040972 =2.89mm - 3.65mm.
-Connector: #12085030/ Orange Seal: #12085024 =3.72mm - 4.48mm.

I E-Mailed you the Data-Sheet for the Combination Oil Pressure Sending-Unit.
...and now I am E-Mailing you the Data-Sheet for the Weather-Pack Knock-Sensor Connectors.

I will work on the EV1 Injector Connectors/ Seals next.

 

25 Amp fuel tank bulkhead added (4th gen plastic fuel tank). Lots of information crammed on that slide, there are other terminals but I scratched those least likely to use in order to save space on the slide.

 

Nice!


Please note; when using the #13527865 (External Tank-Unit/ Pump Connector), there is no TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Lock used.
Delphi GT Connectors almost all use a PLR (Primary Locking Retainer) to secure the installed Terminals...
This makes using a TPA unnecessary/ optional.

The Standard Connector for this application, uses a TPA (no harm from additional protection).

 

Updated Cam Position Sensor and the T56 VSS slides. Found a couple things wrong after seeing the real parts in my hands.

 

Got a bit of a collection of parts now and updated graphics for anything that I bought for myself.

 

The Photos that you took of all the Connector Parts look Amazing!!!


The Thread is Amazing!!!


Here are some quick notes...
Please delete afterwards.


The 5-wire MAF section:
-15305555 fits some of the MAF Models
-15326389 fits the other models.
-Both of the above Connectors are nearly identical, but have slightly different Shroud cut-outs.
-Both use TPA (Grey) 15305557.
-TPA 15418547 is not for the Slim-Line 3.5 Centerline GT-150 Connectors; it is for the Original GT-150 Connectors.

The LS1 alternator:
-Instead of using 3 Red Cavity Plugs and the 12186568 Connector...
Use 12186566 and NO Red Cavity Plugs (ONLY 1 Wire connected to Terminal "L")...
Use 15305066 and 1 Red Cavity Plug (ONLY 1 Wire connected to Terminal "F").

OBDII Connector:
-In addition to the Pig-Tail that you included, a Connector Body for Male Terminals is available.
-12110252 (Red - UnSealed) OBDII Connector... uses UnSealed Metri-Pack 150 Terminals.

Oxygen Sensor (5-Way Body with 1 Cavity omitted):
-The 12092839 Connector is Black, not Grey.
-The Mating Connector is 12146047 (Black).
-The 12092840 Connector is the Grey Version.
-The Mating Connector is 12146046 (Grey).
-The Black and Grey Versions are Keyed differently from one another, and do not mix.

Oxygen Sensor (4-Way Body):
-12160825 has a Mating Connector 12160482 (Black).
-15326423 has a Mating Connector 12176897 (Grey).
-The Black and Grey Versions are Keyed differently from one another, and do not mix.
-2 TPAs are available for the Mating Connectors (Only Color differs between the 2)...
Blue = 12176368...
Grey = 12160480.

Oxygen Sensor (Holley Wide-Spectrum):
-In addition to TPA 12066304 (Grey)... 12047936 (Black) is also available.
-Mating Connector is 12047937.

I'll go through more of the Thread soon.
Again remove this post as you see fit.

 

Thanks for info. I'll try to take time to process it this weekend.

 

Looks like that F-terminal version is hard to find. I listed all 3 connectors in case somebody has trouble sourcing what they want and has to grab next best alternative.

 

I just checked the stock for a few Retailers.
(Not something that I normally do, as I buy Wholesale).

To no surprise, you are correct.


The Part Number is still Active (Not Discontinued).
Hopefully there will be more Stock soon...
Far less inventory has been available, for at least 2-Years now.

 

Great Updates as always!!!


I have been testing a New Bosch Product for the last 7-Months or so...
And I am now confident in it's Performance and Reliability:

Above shows a Combination Pressure and Temperature Sensor, sold by Bosch...
Including the corresponding Electrical Connector (Kostal 1.2 Series), Terminals and Seals (TE).

This is not an inexpensive piece of Data-Collection Hardware.
The least expensive Retailer that I have found, offers a Set (everything in the above Image) for $130.00.
Hyperlink below:
Click Me

Otherwise I see the Sensor sold on it's own, for $150.00+

 

Oh my gosh, that is so cool! I want one of those combination sensors! Looks like it seals same as a brake line metric bubble flare?

Edit: Uh oh, Bosch Motorsports says last time buy was March 2022. Did this just go obsolete?
https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/con...254184331.html

 

Wow!
I will have to make some phone-calls.

A higher pressure version of that Sensor exist.
I have never purchased one... but it is the:PST-F 2 Sensor.
The PST-F 2 is intended for low-pressure Fuel Systems (Carburetion, Port EFI) and higher-pressure Fuel Systems (Direct Injection) as well.

 

Here are a few Images of the Power-Pack 1000 Connectors.
They have a 125A Continuous Ampacity rating.

Connectors are shown next to a Metri-Pack 150 2-Way Connector for scale:

 

Below is one of My custom Mini-Fuse (ATM) Holders,with Metri-Pack 280 Components
(Not the Pull to Seat Metri-Pack 630 Components).

And to the right of the ATM Fuse Holder, is My custom Mini-Device Holder
(Use for a Resistor, Diode, Etc. Or use for a Bypass-Circuit, to prime a Fuel-Pump, or run a Cooling-Fan between Rounds, Etc).

 

Delete

 

Delete

 

Here are some Images of the Early/ "High-End" Multec-2 Fuel Injector Connector/ Parts.
Unfortunately, the TPA and CPA are discontinued...
They made for a nice Strain-Relief System, as the cheaper version of these Parts does not.

 

Did you happen to learn if the Bosch PST-F 1 sensor is discontinued? I already got one just in case. I learned my lesson a while ago to get stuff while you can because eventually all good things go away....

 

It does not seem to be discontinued...
or there is just a ton of stock still available.

I had no issue purchasing more.
As well as had multiple wholesalers tell me that, they have plenty, and can order more without issue.

 

Thanks.

Another box of parts arrived. More pictures being updated.

 

I have been loving all the Photo/ Image Updates that follow purchased Connector-Parts...
I hope you get some New Images up soon (of the Parts that you just purchased; in case I was not clear. LOL).

BTW, have you started looking into Aftermarket Mating-Connectors (because Delphi never produced any) for this:

 

I purchased the Delphi 12085271 (3187 CT) crimper but am having trouble finding any documentation of which positions are for what kind of terminals and wire size. Does anybody happen to know? Looks like there are different widths for different series of terminals.
Pos A:
Pos B:
Pos C:
Pos D:
Pos E:

I found documentation for the Delphi 12085270 (3186 CT) which I also have,
Pos 1: seals MP 150
Pos 2: crimp 18-20 AWG
Pos 3: seals MP 480 / 630
Pos 4: crimp 14-16 AWG
Pos 5: seals MP 280 / Weather-Pack

 

No, I haven't. Do you know who is the manufacturer for those booted connectors?

 

There is a Crimping Index...
But Honestly, none of us really ever used it.
Most of us would chose a Letter or Number designation that is the size of the un-crimped Terminal (or a little larger)...
then progress down in size until the Conductor is secured to the Terminal.

Also with the Ratcheting Crimpers, you will eventually gain a feel for how much force you are applying to make your Crimp.
Then, you will most often just go by feel.

 

Most of the Booted-Connectors that use the Female Terminals, are produced by Delphi...
Such as the 3-Way GT150 Connector that I posted above, for Pressure Transducers.

TE/ Amp has a good amount of Connectors that use the Male Terminals...
which Mate to the Delphi Connectors.

 

Delphi #15397275:

 

Seven or more years ago...
multiple aftermarket Connector Manufacturers produced Mating Connectors for the Connector in my last Post above.

Now I only know of Two.
Casper's Electronics produces one...
It is a good Connector, but uses the Pull-To-Seat Metri-Pack 150.2 Seals, instead of the more modern GT-150 Parts.





The other Connector available, is produced by a very common Chinese "Knock-Off" Connector Company: IIIB.
I like the IIIB Connector Design (Itself)... but less so the actual Connector.
The reason I feel this way, is because they chose to use Micro-064 sized Terminals instead of 150-Series sized Terminals.

The IIIB Connector is shown in the Image below with the older design Delphi Pull-To-Seat Metri-Pack 150.2 Connectors:



I was hoping that maybe you had come across another Company/ Product for this Male/ Mating Connector.

 

Alright, let's talk wire strippers! Most I've bought are pretty lousy and the pile of lousy keeps growing. What are some good strippers that won't break small wire, and preferably with adjustable length stops?

 

A friend bought me a set of self-adjusting wire strippers from radio shack years ago that I'm still using for most everything. Amazon has a few like it, though I've not personally used any of those brands. Once you get used to it, it's hard to use anything else. They claim to go down to 10 AWG and mine do. Here's what a self-adjusting wire stripper looks like (these are a ):

 

In forty years of stripping wire of all sizes the good old fashioned Klein manual strippers have never failed me. Very maneuverable and able to get into tight spaces (such as might be experienced when working in the confines on an engine bay).

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/c...per-and-cutter

Caveat: Forty years of experience has provided plenty of feedback on the "feel" needed to do it without failure. You can toss your "adjustable length stops" out the window. It's those features which will dispose of that style of stripper into the bin.



Argue otherwise at your peril.
Crimping tools on the other hand require a controlled cycle feature to a proper job.

 

I have the Radio Shack version of that Vice Grip and it makes a really rough tear of the insulation and pulls out strands of small wire. It doesn't cut at all, literally just pulls and tears by design.

I also have the guillotine cutter style IDEAL Stripmaster and it works a lot better but still sometimes cuts strands of wire. I want something that works flawless on 22 AWG wire.

Skinny, I do have one of those Klein Kurve. It is good, but I'm lazy and would like something with a depth stop and pulls the insulation off. Maybe I just need to get more skilled with it.

Then I got one of those Knipex mini wire strippers so I could do precision cuts and it does work but it's not a quick tool to use. It's also delicate and I'm a little worried wearing it out with common tasks that really don't need that kind of precision (it was not a cheap tool).

Still looking for a great tool that won't damage wire and is quick to use....

 

No doubt that's the truth. Lots of peril happening in my garage.

 

As mentioned, practice makes perfect.
The Klein stripper, when new, cuts like a razor. As for the depth stop, what I've learned is that it's good practice to remove an excess amount of insulation (+1/16th or so so), then it's very easy to use those sharp cutters to trim the copper back to a precise length.
FWIW, I worked in an OEM panel shop for the better part of a several decades. It's rare to see anything other than the simplest of stripping tools. This is the manual side of things obviously. Most of the do-all style of strippers end up exactly where your collection has.
Good luck in your quest. I'll be interested to see who recommends what.

 

You clearly have depth of experience and it's nice to know I own your favorite tool. That's a big plus.

 

Most of the Insulation that is used for GXL, TXL, Etc Wire can be stripped by most any Stripper that you are comfortable with.
I only mention that, as some of the insulation materials used in Motorsports Wiring (such as ETFE Tefzel) can be difficult to strip consistently without some stupidly expensive Wire Strippers...
It blows my mind at times... the expense sometimes is just ridiculous.

 

I use and love this one. When you're doing hundreds of wires this takes all the variables out of the equation. insert. squeeze, insert, squeeze. over and over and over again. It also prevents accidental knicks and cuts in stranded wire, especially fine strands. It doesn't break the bank and it has replaceable heads. I have noticed on some of the larger gauge wire, that winds up having a thicker insulation, I have to do a half squeeze then rotate the wire slightly to get a good strip off the end. It's fine on everythig below 12 gauge though.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/570/...ipper-Cutter-/

@vorteciroc I sent you a PM. Hope you're doing well

 

Hey now that's what I'm talking about! I might order one up if you say it doesn't break strands on 22 gauge.

 

I kept forgetting to Post a Data-Sheet for the Connector above:



The Delphi Part Number above is no longer in use...
But the Service/ Replacement Part Number is still "Active" as a Pigtail.

GM: #13505905/ ACDelco: #PT2504,shown below:


I always find it ridiculous when GM just slaps their own Part Number right over the Original Manufacturer.

 

UPDATE!

One of my Parts Suppliers has just informed me that they will now be Retailing the above Parts (and in small quantities/ individually).

The Sensor will be just under $55.00.
The Connector with loose Terminals and Seals, will be just under $5.00.

Fortunately these Prices are significantly lower than the $130.00 - $150.00 Retail Prices that I see all over the Net.
Unfortunately... International Shipping is required.

I have been receiving these shipments through DHL, (on average) in 3 Business-Days.
At this time, this seems to be their only International Shipping Option... for about $25.00.

So I would recommend waiting until you need multiple Sensors and Connectors (or something else/ other Connectors that they offer)...
To justify the Shipping Cost.

PM me for the Business Information.

 

I was recently asked for a solution for External Knock-Sensors (and corresponding Electrical Connectors)...
That can be "Booted" for a "Mil-Spec" Sub-Harness, or complete Harness.

If originally using Internal Knock-Sensors as shown below:


With these Connectors:



Aftermarket Stud-Adapters are available to change over to External Knock-Sensors:

 

These Aftermarket Stud-Adapters allow for the use of External Knock-Sensors... such as with the Chevrolet LSx Gen-IV SBC Engine.
Shown in the 2 Images below:




The Aftermarket Stud-Adapters also allow for External Knock-Sensors that use Connectors, which are Bootable (as done with Mil-Spec/ Race-Spec Wiring).
The Chevrolet 4.3L Vortec V6 Engine (Late-Model such as the 2001 Model-Year) uses this type of External Knock-Sensors.

The Image below shows both types of External Knock-Sensor:
-The LSx Gen-IV SBC External Knock-Sensor (on the Left).
-The 4.3L Vortec V6 External Knock-Sensor (on the Right).



The External Knock-Sensors for the Chevrolet 4.3L Vortec V6 Engine, are Bosch Parts and are produced by TE.
The Image below shows one of the External Knock-Sensors from the Chevrolet 4.3L Vortec V6 Engine:




The Chevrolet 4.3L Vortec V6 External Knock-Sensor, is GM Part-Number: #21024981, and ACDelco Part-Number: #213924.

The corresponding "Bootable" Electrical Connector is available as a Pigtail, or as Components to assemble the Connector.
The Image below shows the Pigtail:


The Pigtail Part-Numbers are ACDelco: #PT2580, and GM: #13577328.
The Components to assemble the Connector are available from Mouser.com.



The Part-Numbers are:
-Connector Body: TE: #347887-3
-Terminals: TE: #927863-1
-Cable Seals: TE: #828904-1

 

Quick Note:

For those of you using Holley EFI, Air-Temperature and Fluid-Temperature Sensors are available from TE with the same Bootable Connector as above.

Air:

Fluid:


In addition, Temp Sensors are available for use with Deutsch DTM Connectors (which can be Booted as well).