It was a Pain In The A--. I took all the measurements down and double checked before I tore the dash apart. The only part I used of the original dash was the inner skeleton for regitity. My idea was to keep a factory feel but make it race car ish on the inside, I didnt keep the measurements it was basically just every length possible. I got pretty thin aluminum and even it was a pain to bend so as some probably noticed the corners are squared and not as round BUT I think it came out nice. Thanks for the complements.

The sheet of aluminum was around 200$, and it took about 6 solid 12hr days to build. On the longer bends I used 2 - 1x2s in a vise with C clamps on the end ( to do the top section bend ). Youll need left,center and right metal sheers. And if you can get a sheet of aluminum with plastic on it, I found it easy to wright on and take down measurements on the metal... measure twice cut once. Pre drill your rivet holes with a small bit first so you dont dimple the metal. Leave the plastic on until youre 100% done.

Thanks for the comment about the wheels. I actually sold that set and bought the C6 black chrome wheels, 15" tires were hard to find here and the 17s and 18s seem to fill the wheel well a little better. Yours look better than mine use to lol

 

I'm loving that picture of those back tires tucked in there, that looks killer! I may have missed this earlier, but are you leaving the vette wheels in the front and the black ones in the back?

 

My original plan was to keep the front vette wheels at all times, use the rear vette wheels to just cruise with and use the black aero wheels when im racing. Further into the build I started a C5 brake upgrade on the front and planned using the large calipers all the way around. The rotors alone are close to 13" and one day fiddling around in the garage it smacked me... I cant run a 13" caliper with a 15" wheel. SO...lol... I plan to find some larger rears with the same offset as the vette wheels that I can put drag radials on. I do plan on selling the areos with the extra set of slicks I have for them.

Its a shame too cause I REALLY like the look the areos give it... but im more for the stopping power.

 

Damn man you put some heart in to that dash. Looks amazing though. Idk if I personally will stick that close to detail because mine will be basically a full race car but it deff puts some ideas into my head and thanks for the heads up about the protective plastic. I would have just ripped it off not even thinking about it.

 

Yea ive really put alot of time and heart into the whole build, im just gonna take my time and when it gets done its done. The inner skeleton of the dash is quite a bit smaller, id say anywhere from a inch to a inch and a half all the way around. The aluminum I used was soda can thin, the complete dash only weighs about 3-5lbs with no gauges. With all the questions I should have taken pictures of me tearing it apart but I didnt, it serves as a good support. I will say you cant sand blast the inner foam off I had to use aircraft stripper or paint stripper to get that stuff off and the hard outside I just cut into sections and peeled it off. My dash was old and brittle tho, I dont know the condition yours is in.

 

Mine is pretty bad as well

 

I gotta give a shout out to Bruce out at Hawks Thirdgen for hooking me up with a sweet Moser 9" Posi







I got it installed and then started my work on the subframes, i worked on it solid sun up till sun down for over a week. Ive done quite a few upgrades since my last post thats why i havnt been posting.

 

Ive gotta say thanks to FueledSoul, he got the ball rolling in my head awhile back about custom building SFCs. I got alot of information from his build and as they resemble one another they are two totally different builds, if you plan to do this be prepared to have some time on your hands because it took me working day and night for about a week to finish.

I started in the same area he did at the front LCA mount, for the same reasons. It makes a great spot to take it on and off as youre building them and it adds a great deal of support mounting to something that sturdy.



I then made my runner from it to the front frame, i tried not to get one side ahead of the other and tried to be working on the same piece for each side. This really helps in making them the same weight/length. I measured both sides the same and tacked them in place.

 

This is how i made all the angles i cut all the pieces 1/2" longer than measured then once i cut the angle the excess hangs off but the piece youre welding and bend the tab inside. Once you weld it up solid and smooth it down it almost appears made that way, youll notice on a few pieces i worked on for the inner SFC where the hump is on the passenger side.

 

Next i boxed in the end of the frame behind the trans crossmember, i wanted to make a nice flat platform for the SFCs to lay. I welded both up solid because this wasnt going to be coming out in the final weld.

 

I also built platforms on the rear frame and the back of the front seat floor pans. I used the same 1/4" x 2" flatstrap to make these with.





Now im going to jump ahead a few pictures for just a second to show you that on the passenger side front seat platform ( on the righ hand side of the picture ) i had to build a brace to come down and meet the platform this is because the drive shaft tunnel is leaned more on the passenger side than it is on the drivers side. They are both measured the same distance on each side, the tunnel is what throws your eye off.

 

When i built the inner SFCs the passenger side has the large dip in the floor pan, FueledSoul id an amazing job at keeping the contour of the car and keeping things up close. I felt for what i was building the car to be and the fact i wouldnt be running my exhaust back i wouldnt need to do this, i also felt keeping the SFCs in one single straight piece from one end to the other would also add a little more strength. Heres what i came up with.



The inner SFC lays flat across the floor to keep clearance the same as the transmission mount and 2"x1" works perfect for this, whats amazing is after i built the 1/4" platforms the inner SFC on the passengerside was exactly 2" from the platform i built right behind the trans cross member.



So i mimic'd the outer SFC idea and just made a simple drop.



And centered it up

 

Welded up solid

Drivers Side Inner SFC

Passenger Side Inner SFC

 

I then just ran a single joiner straight from the inner SFC to the outer SFC.



I Measured and copied it to the passenger side, the 2" drop piece came in handy, i tied the two straight across practically from the brace itself.

 

Once i tacked everything in place i dropped them down and set them out for a final weld, here they are out of the car.

 

After i welded them up i measured and marked the areas i would be welding. I then bedlinered the tops of the bars that would be up against the floor of the car before putting them in, i coated the spots i would be welding with weld thru primer. After welding them in solid i recoated everything with bedliner and also finished coating the floor. Waited for it to dry and reinstalled all the goodies. Heres how it came out.

 

I installed my driveshaft that i had made at Larrys Driveshaft in Ft.Smith Ar. They did an amazing job, i told them it would be used in a dragcar and they made sure even at a higher RPM range that there wasnt any vibration. I also installed some LoTek 2" drop lowering springs. Later on i plan to get tubular LCAs and Panhard Bar, and a Custom Panhard Bar Brace will be fabricated.

 

I rolled her out side and gave her a bath once again

 

Next will be installing the brakes and brake lines, transmission lines and fuel lines. I still need to buy a fuel cell and install it and then work on wiring the lights and that sort of stuff.

Its coming along great, im getting anxious to drive it. Id love to have it streetable for Thirdgen Fest 15'

 

I know its been a while since ive last posted some update pictures but ive just been busy, ill have to skip past a couple things but ill update you with whats new.

Ive finished the brake lines and fuel line, i used 1/2" aluminium line for the whole system, in fact i ran one solid line from the filter to the carb. I finished wiring the dash and the new 7AL box i got, after getting things so close and having it ready to run my alternator wouldnt charge. I tried repairing it to keep the painted red alternator and was unsucessful so i ended up buying a new alternator till i could get the 200amp red one fixed. Fuel cell is installed and i used a Holley Blue fuel pump, its loud but supplies more than enough fuel, i then run it through a Canton fuel filter, i know a few people using them and theyve all had great luck.

After installing the aluminum dash i built i bought an autometer gauge set, i went with the Ultra Lite II gauges and they turned out amazing.

I cant begin to tell you the transmission problems ive had... it went from bad to worse and back, i ended up changing torque converters twice, i took it to a shop and had a guy there work on it and after being rebuilt twice... it Still didnt work. I came to the conclusion that it must be something with the case since thats the only thing that didnt change. I ended up just buying a driver to get it to roll around and thats where its at.

Ive had it up and running since Nov 14' total ive probably driven it 20 miles and its been running good. Ive also driven it around town a couple of times and the stares and compliments have been awesome lol.

Heres some recent pictures...

 

 

 

 

So theres all the new pictures i have, i will try to take some of the fuel cell and setup and the line i ran. The center console is just to cover the shifter until i make an all aluminum console to match the stock style.

Still working on making it streetable for ThirdGen Fest!

 

New Headlights.

 

NEW TOYS!

After 3 TH350s... ha... yeah, 3.

I decided to contact the guys at TCI to find out just what it is i havnt figured out. I gave them engine specs and told them what i was doing with the car and they hooked me up with a build simular to the SuperStreet build, i also got a 3000 rpm converter and to keep the warranty i even bought their cooler.

I'll keep you guys updated on how everything works out