KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Okay guys, Mr. Budget is back again.

I bought an 88 IROC-Z off of Craigslist last year, presumably to use it for parts for my 89 Firebird project. The Camaro has a good 700R4 transmission, and my Firebird needed one. The car was cheaper than a rebuilt trans, plus think of all the extra parts!

Well, I was overseas at the time so I had a local friend go and check the car and bring it home. He messaged me back that it was a good deal and took it to his house to keep it for me until I got back. The next message I got from him was that he absolutely refused to pull it apart to fix my Firebird and he went ahead and just rebuilt the trans in my bird for me (of course I paid hahahha.) He picked up a set of 1990 Formula 16" wheels from a swap meet and stuck them on there to roll it around since it came with no wheels.

Long story short, the IROC is a bucket of bolts with LOTS of cut wires and missing parts, but its really too rust free and straight to cut it up. Its a T-Top car and its got the glass tops. Like I said, its a pile, but we can fix 'er up. And we will.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

The engine was not running when I got it (of course) and the owner did not know why. My friend Mike verified the engine by pulling off the MAF and using a spray bottle of gasoline at the throttle body. Not my preferred method but he heard it run and sealed the deal.

Of course the problem was the fuel pump. Of course someone in the past had hacked the trunk area apart to change the pump from the top and cut the sending unit too.

I pulled everything apart the right way, cleaned the tank (after I removed the burned fuel pump parts from inside) and installed a new AC Delco EP381 pump. I fixed the fuel gauge while I was at it. The previous guys really did a number on this thing.

The sheet metal under the hatchback is waiting for me to MIG weld it back together. It will happen soon.

I changed the fuel filter, then found the fuse near the battery pregnant, bloated and blown (someone stuck a 30A fuse in there!) so I replaced that with a new 20. Someone already put a new fuel pump relay under the hood, along with pulling all the wires out of the loom and hanging it off the brake booster.

Anyhow, we got er fired up! She runs pretty well, all abuse considered. I then tried to move the car and after one application of the brakes, both front wheels were frozen.

I popped both bleeders and couldn't get anything to move out. Master Cylinder was full. I massaged everything and got the calipers off, neither one would let the piston move back in the bore with a C-Clamp on the bench! After a trip to the parts store, I came back with new calipers and had the same problem! BOTH front rubber lines were so deteriorated that the fluid couldn't return to the master cylinder. One MORE trip to the auto parts store, and a little bleeding, and we were driving! Hoo-RAH!

Someone played monkey with the exhaust, and it screwed me big time when I was doing the fuel pump. They removed all the clamps and flanges, and welded the whole thing solid from the manifolds back. There is one piece of clamped flex pipe in the middle of the y-pipe. Not sure why, and its also crushed, so that piece is going away soon.

My MIG welder is really gonna get some miles put on it.

So, I ordered a 3" high flow cat from eBay, a new O2 sensor and bung, and I replaced one tailpipe hanger on the passenger side which I had to take for my 88 Firebird because the new Flowmaster system required the V8 hanger, and its a V6 car.

It made its first long test drive today and its as good as can be expected. It will get completely gone through, so no worries. Budget yes, skimping and skipping no. Oh, there's no sway bar links on it so the bars just flop around, but the posi works great!

And the AC condenser is gone.

And the air dam for the radiator is missing.

And there's lamp cord running to ONE of the electric fans and its hooked at the other end to the fuse box. The temp gauge and oil pressure gauge don't work. There's a hole where the stereo goes with wires hanging out. There's holes in the interior panels where the speakers go. The dash lights don't work.

Did I mention we're going to fix that?

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I picked up the wheels a while back, they are the 15" star wheels (correct for 1988) and I will paint them the proper gold color. I have some Pirelli 235/60/15 tires for it too. I wish I had the 16" wheels, but hey, you can't win them all.

Remember the budget!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I am using aircraft stripper to clean them up before I prime and paint them. I'm trying to make them as nice as I can.

I might spring for powder-coating, but probably not. 15s are just not worth the cash outlay.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Does anybody know what color the caps on the lug nuts should be? Are they supposed to be black with black center caps to be period correct? I'm shopping and I've seen black and white center caps.

Just curious.

jhainer

that looks alot like my iroc when i picked it up mine had just about the same dents and was in just about the same shape.

88Fan

Reading your post.
I have never herd of an IROC coming factory with a V/6??????

.......88Fan

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

It may have been yours; got any spare parts for it?

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

My Firebird has the V6; this car has the VIN F 305 TPI V8

Pro-mo

Cool to see you are saving it. Good luck with it and keep us posted.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

At this point the only 3rd gens that I'm not saving are hard wrecks. These cars mean something to me, and I want as many back on the road as I can get!

All three of my 3rd gens here were saved from a horrible fate, so I'm feeling good about it.

88Fan

Sweet,went back in and reread that line of your post.
......88Fan

LHernandezJr

...

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

No worries all, progress will be documented and the car will be saved.

The next BIG project is the under-hood wiring. Its terrible. Did I mention one of the fans has lamp cord hooked to it?

Anyway, the fans will be sorted out, the temp gauge and oil gauge don't work, and neither does the tach. I have a feeling the sending units are either bad or not used. There is a mechanical temp gauge screwed to the bottom of the dashboard so I can only assume that either the fan switch or the gauge sender is missing now. We'll know soon enough.

I had to tape up a ton of wires, including some spark plug wires, just to get it from Plant City to Lakeland, and its really squirrely driving around with no sway bars.

FryeDaddy

iTrader: (1)

So where you getting all the information to fix the gauges? I'm also restoring my Camaro but only the fuel and battery gauge and Speedo works

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Experience and a GM service manual.

Go to ebay and bite the bullet; just buy one.

On a happy note, the IROC is now registered and back on the road. Next I'll tackle the fans.

2007xl50

Gald you have saving another one. A lamp cord really? some people should never work on cars.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

A lamp cord. No kidding. The one end of the lamp cord got tied into some #10 yellow wire which is then run to the fusebox (via the fender and door) and plugged straight into the panel (which is hanging by the wires)

I will post pictures probably tomorrow when I start tearing it all apart. The wiring is an unbelievable mess.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Lamp cord has so many uses. Not only can you use it to run the primary fan, but you can use extra to tie up loose wires, sort of like a reusable zip tie.



Anyhow, does anyone recognize the 6 pin connector in the picture? It only has one wire now since one pin was a blank and the other four got clipped for whatever reason. I'm just curious what it was for.

There were no relays for the fans anywhere, only a few old wires mingled with some "new" ones to really rig up the fans to get them going. The nightmare is all gone now, with two generic 4 pin relays doing fan duty now and forever more. I'll put the pics up after I have them zip tied and covered. Its in test mode right now to make sure its right.

So far, the ECM turns the primary fan on anytime the engine is running. I am suspecting the CTS, but I don't know yet. The secondary fan is running off of a temp switch above the starter, but its relay has its own wire running from the relay to the switch to work it. I can't find the factory wire so I'm not using it.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

The long yellow wire is a one piece unit that ran from a wad of wires next to the battery all the way around the back of the engine, over the LH front fender, and the through the door gap where it was shoved into the fuse box in an accessory slot.

After I got the wiring for the fans sorted, I noticed the alternator plug had been hacked and replaced badly, so it got repaired too. Some grounds that I think were supposed to go to the back of the LH cylinder head as well. Fuel pump relay and ESC wiring too, and the blower fan for the AC.

I think that's enough for one day hahahha.

EjBaL

Make sure you replace the air dam, they can overheat without those. A friend of mine had an 86 ta with a 305 tpi and he replaced the radiator and put in a 160* thermostat and couldn't figure out why the car was still running hot, turns out after he found an air dam for it and put it back on it ran cool as ever. Just made me worry a little because your lack of a temp guage at the moment. Anyways good luck and I look forward to the progress!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I'm hunting an air dam now, I learned that lesson on Firebirds first a while back. I do have a temperature gauge, it's a cheapie mechanical unit and I'll keep it up until the OEM unit is fixed.

As far as progress goes, the car was so dirty that I pressure washed it today. Inside and out. It's still drying.

Last night while I was repairing the underhood wiring I also found that the main ignition power is a mysterious red wire plugged into the front of the fuse panel in the IGN terminal. That will be the next big hurdle.

88Fan

these cars have a lot of wiring from the factory.
Add the mess some body can make who does not understand it or thinks they know better it can make for some real Headaches.
this picture tells me some body did not have a clue about what they where doing



I picked up a vehicle cheap one time because it would not start correctly for the P.O.
All I did was replace the JUNK baterry termanal with the correct lenth/gage molded end wire and the starting problems where solved.
One of the reason I picked up my 86 Z28 at a good price was the P.O. had the remote fan wired backwards.Some body removed the factory plug and replaced it with a pair of female spades.It kicked on when it should have but was pushing instead of pulling.
causing the car to over heat quick.

......88Fan

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Got a few parts together, so I figured I'd update.

Got all the sway bar links on tonight. Some new parts and some used, but all good. It really drives better now!

Got the nasty flamed cheapo seat covers off of it and found the seat damage. I guess I'll figure something out. I DID however, get my used seat belt hoops in the mail from an 85 IROC, along with the Z28 dash emblem and the lower air dam under the radiator. I fiddled with some connections and now I have dash lights again! Yeah for the home team!

Once I get the temp, oil, and tach gauges running I will put into daily driver status to work the additional bugs out.

I thought I was done with the underhood wiring but then I found the main power wire to the coil hacked in half and taped together. Fixed that, and went ahead and fixed the hood light too. Why not, right?

I'm gonna have to source another coolant bottle, since mine has a hole the size of Texas in it.

That's all for now!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Today is wheel cleaning and prep day for the 15" Camaro star wheels. To make this bucket into a daily driver I need the good tires I have to go on these wheels ASAP. It needed to be done, anyway.

Hopefully I'll have some pictures later on of at least one that is done!

bluegrassz

iTrader: (3)

Good luck with the rebuild. I know cut wires can be a mess.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!

I got most of the cut wires under the hood sorted out and repaired. I'm now running down specific problems, like what the problem is for the oil sender, the temp sender, and the tach. The cut wires for the radio are a mess, but that was expected. It seems everyone likes to hack those off instead of getting the nice little adapter harness.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I had some time today and got the wheels out of primer and into paint. I should have some pictures tomorrow in the daylight with the tires on.

I also decided to fiddle with the tail lights since they didn't seem right to me. I found the RH license plate light lens broken and shoved into the mount hole badly at an angle. I took it all apart and fixed it up nicely. When I tested the brake lights, only one at the far RH side of the third brake light came on. The big ones work, but I HATE when tail lights don't work, so I took it apart. WOW! what a convoluted design! Then I noticed that its made in Italy so I just put that out of my mind and set to fixing it.

What the hell weird little euro light bulbs are in that lens? It looked like a smaller 194 with pegs coming out of the bottom. I'm guessing the genius that cut all the wires under the hood probably just threw away all of the missing bulbs (except the one that works) because he couldn't find the replacements, either. I went to the store and got some number 24 bulbs since they fit through the hole. I bent the metal tangs down off the bulb and made them into pegs and twisted them a bit to make them fit the sockets. Works great! The little gaskets were all gone except 3/4 of one gasket around one hole and it fell apart upon disassembly. Its now gasketed with black RTV to keep the rain out.

Mounted it back in and it works great. Now I just have one back up light and the lights will be done.

I had a fairly productive trip to the wrecking yard today and got the plastic cover panel for the LH side of the interior that covers the fuse box under the steering column, the proper mounts for the coolant reservoir, and the bolts for the air dam that goes directly under the radiator.

I got home, mounted the air dam with my new bolts, put some new bolts in the front of the IROC air scoop that goes behind the fog lights and screws to the front fascia (half were missing), verified my repair for the Z28 badge on the dashboard that I now have along with my new to me seat belt hoops and installed my new dome light cover. I am thinking I'll go back tomorrow and look for sun visors (I forgot today) and maybe grab the coolant bottle and headlight trim rings. Maybe a license plate light lens too. Who knows?

Once the tires go on, it'll be a daily driver. Then the REAL fun begins!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Ok, I got some pics of my tires that are mounted up now. Its looking like a proper Camaro now that the Formula wheels are off of it.

Today was more wiring fun. I couldn't figure out how come if you bumped the fuse panel (which is hanging by the harness) the car might shut off. Well, I took a look behind it and found two of the big fat pink wires cut with one wire nutted back together and the other just twisted together without even being taped!

I also found the purple start wire had been hacked in half, then had an orange wire inserted to lengthen it (why?) and then both ends of that abortion were taped very badly.

Anyhow, its all fixed now and it starts and runs properly, finally.

I've got two DTCs and I'm working on fixing them. One is 24, the VSS, which makes sense since the speedometer is not working. I had a broken speedo adapter in the side of the trans initially and I thought I had it fixed by replacing the housing, but it stopped working about a week ago and it appears I have a slight leak of trans fluid at the cable attachment point. Not sure what happened inside there?

My other DTC is a 43, ESC code. I'll have to research that more and find out exactly what is going on. It may have something to do with the reason that the tach doesn't work?

My GM service manuals are in the mail right now, so until then, I am just guessing.

I tested my temp gauge and oil pressure gauge today and found that my oil pressure gauge does work when I use a potentiometer under the hood in lieu of the sending unit. I actually saw the gauge work! Woo hoo! New sending unit is in the mail from eBay now, so it will be working next week sometime.

My temp gauge does not respond at all. I don't want to take the gauge cluster out, but that's where I'm headed. I'll wait for the service manual before I go nuts.

I fixed the dome light and ACC wiring. My research says that my used AC condenser from an old Buick will work on this Camaro, so I will test fit it this weekend, maybe. If it does, I will have the system flushed out by a friend with a new machine and then I'll fill it and dye it so that we can find the leaks.

I have the stereo and harness to install too. So much to do!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

And my last wheel below:

The tires are Pirelli P600s that are really decent. The front two are new and the rears are about 50%. They are take offs from a Jag, not sure what year.

As soon as I bolted them on I had a guy ask me how much I wanted for it hahahahha. I guess the Formula wheels really detract from the mind's eye what a Camaro is supposed to look like!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I removed the steering wheel, straightened it some, and reinstalled it properly along with a used S10 center cap. I couldn't stand driving it with the wheel off by 90 degrees anymore! I have another, better wheel coming from California via this forum's classifieds with a proper Camaro center cap. I'll repair that wheel and make it as nice as possible before I put it on. I'll also fix the horn, :P

I got my used Z28 emblem for the dashboard that was missing and my lower missing air deflector installed too. The car is coming back to life!

Once the stereo is in I'll start driving it!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I got some gauge stuff sorted out today.

I bought a couple of potentiometers from Radio Shack and some clip test leads to start doing some tests. The ohm readings in my service manuals make the gauges do what they are supposed to do. So there's one good thing.

The oil pressure gauge just needed a sender, so it now works.

The temp gauge had the far end of the needle bent so that during bulb test and crank it would 9 out of 10 times stick past the normal sweep of the gauge by hanging up on the housing. I trimmed the needle down and it now matches pretty close to the mechanical gauge as we are going down the road.

My ECM now NEVER turns the number one fan on. The secondary one works as it should off of the new temp switch I installed in the block, but the primary is dead. Previously the ECM had been holding that one on 100% of the time it was running. Investigation is pending...

I removed the tach/oil pressure gauge and wired it up on the RH inner fender well. It does the exact same thing that it does in the dash when its mounted up, so I'll take that as a good wiring harness check. With the battery, ground and coil hooked up with my jumpers, as soon as the engine is running the tach pegs over to beyond 7000 and lays on the limit. It never comes back unless you flick it by hand. It can go back all the way to beyond zero or fully pegged, but nothing in between.

Guess I need another one!

The mechanical speedometer stopped working and I am suspecting the drive in the trans tail housing since it didn't seem right when we had it out during the fuel pump swap.

I think the engine will blow up soon, because it has WAY too much power for what it is. It drives pretty darn good! LOTS of smoke from the rear tires whenever you want it.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Its been a long break, due to many circumstances, not the least of which is the terrible result of the election. I am just sickened.

Anyhow, I got another tach/oil pressure gauge combo off of here from a guy parting out an IROC. I cleaned it and installed it and now the IROC has a working tach (pretty accurate) and the oil pressure gauge works better too. I still have not fixed the primary fan or the speedometer but I should be working those issues tomorrow.

I white primed the hood and spent a long time cleaning spray paint over-spray off of all the windows from the previous owner's foolishness. I can actually see while driving now. Yippee!

I removed the driver's side door panel and replaced the broken door release lever so now I can open the door from the inside. That's a big deal when its raining! :P

I still have not installed the stereo. I'll get to it. While the door panel is off I want to install the new window sweeps and fix my manual remote stick that is missing.

I drove the car to college tonight and on the way back it was COLD inside. I just remembered that there is NO heater valve under the hood. There is just a tee with all the heater hoses hooked together. Add that to the list hahaah.

Oh yeah, I have to put an AC condenser in also.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Well, I got the heater valve underhood installed, and I really had to fish to find the SUPPOSED vacuum line that runs the heater valve. Its hooked up now, and of course I am onto other related problems and have taken two (or more) steps backwards with my small step forward.

Once I hooked up the heater valve, I eagerly got into the car, started it up, and flipped the temp lever over to hot. What I got was a loud sucking sound from behind the dash.

I took apart the dash, and now I have a ton of broken parts to contend with. the little vacuum switch that runs off of the temp lever is leaking badly, and so is my spare one.

My shifter plate has a fat, ribbed, ribbon that is broken in several places. Not sure where I'm gonna get that piece, or how I can make one.

Here we go!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Ok, updates!

I've got Hawks sending me some repop IROC wheel center caps for my 15x7 wheels. They also are sending me a used HVAC control with the vacuum valves so I will have that fixed soon.

I also took a road trip to Deland and saw 386kustoms, who hooked me up with my missing AC condenser. Now I just have to run down a used shifter top plate and I'll be doing great!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

The NEXT update:

I got underneath the car to finally fix the speedometer drive. For some reason, the gear keeps falling of the shaft (not sure how it is supposed to be retained) and then it just lays inside the extension housing which results in no speedometer.

Well, I replaced the drive housing, installed my seal and shaft, then I set the gear depth where I thought it should be and put some epoxy there to hold it on. It has held for over a week now, so I am calling it good for now. Its nice to have a speedo again.

Now the bad. The speedometer is definitely off by a lot. I'm not sure what gear set is in the rear, but its not stock for sure. I'm thinking that someone may have slipped some 3.73s in there at some point because the engine is revving too high at highway speeds. According to my GPS on the dash, when I'm doing 40 on the speedometer I'm really doing 50. 50 is 62, 60 is 74, 70 is 86 and 80 is 98. Oh well, at least I know what is going on. My tach says 2500 rpm at 65. Not sure if the tach is perfect, but it sounds right to me compared to my other cars.

I got my wheel center caps and they look great. Those old 15 inch star wheels look great with the right center caps. I'm still wrestling with the vacuum controls on the heater control panel, I've got the heat working but as soon as you pull the lever off of cold towards hot it starts hissing angrily. I also cannot get the vents to switch at all, they are always coming out of the defrost only. Oh well, at least I can melt the ice when the windshield freezes and not freeze my butt off on the way to work.

I also went around the car and found some marker lights out, so I fixed them all and while I was at it I fixed the little courtesy light inside the trunk on the back wall too. Its rather convenient when you are getting groceries out of the hatch at night!

Last but not least, I fixed the cruise control too. I had to replace all the vacuum lines from the engine to the cruise pieces, but now it works perfect. The only problem I had was that i couldn't figure out where the vacuum source came from since there was nothing plugged off that I could see on the engine. I ended up just tee-ing into the vacuum source that powers the interior dash stuff and since it works great I guess I'll leave it like that!

gdwrnch

I am from Auburndale & have just about the same issues as you have with the 87 iroc I bought last month, the person I got mine from apparently wanted just a basic hot rod. He removed the cruise, the electric fan (installed aftermarket fan & radiator) & wired it up almost as bad as yours. I got a used harness for the fan but I have to wait until the service manual comes in to see what it will take for me to either use the after market or replace with oem equipment. I also need to find out how to reinstal the cruise control I purchased one from a guy in north lakeland but I don't have a clue where the vacum lines go since there are none there. I also need to find out how the temp gage is wired as well since he installed an aftermarket one as well.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

The GM service manual will help you a ton getting that stuff figured out.

On a quick note (since I am not sure to what extent things were removed) I can tell you where my stuff is hooked up.

The temp gauge uses a black wire going to the sending unit on the LH cylinder head. The sender screws into the head in between the front two exhaust ports. It will make sense when you look at the engine because there will be SOMETHING screwed into that port. Either the OEM sender will still be there, the aftermarket hookup could be there, or it might just be a pipe plug.

As for the cruise, I have two parts on the LH front side behind the headlights. under the battery tray there is a plastic ball with only one hookup (a vacuum reservoir) and that is tee-ed in to the line coming from the engine that goes to the cruise actuator. I could not find the proper OEM routing for the hookup from the engine so I just t'd it into the vacuum source that feeds the dashboard controls.

Hope that helps.

gdwrnch

Thanks for your help I will check it out. Good luck with your Iroc.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Update

I lent the IROC to a friend yesterday and he called me as the sun was going down that he had lost the brakes. He got it back home using the e-brake and driving slowly.

I pulled it in the garage and checked the master cylinder - EMPTY. I got down and looked at all the wheels from under the car and the left rear was wet. Tore it down and we found a blown wheel cylinder. I'm not fully understanding why that dumped the entire master cylinder of brake fluid unless the seals in there allowed the disk fluid side to be drawn past and into the drum side where it got dumped all over the road.

Anyhow, I took apart a used rear axle here and those wheel cylinders are seized up, so we went down to AutoZone and got a new one. Man, that retainer clip was a real bear to get off and on! I never remembered having one fight me that hard. Got everything cleaned up and re-assembled and today we'll bleed them out when my buddy gets over here later on.

I also had some people approach us about buying the car yesterday. What they are planning to do to it does not make me too happy, but if someone offers me too much money for it, it is going away hahahha. Then I can go save another one.

gdwrnch

your luck is like mine, we were working on it this weekend & found that the heater was not hooked up, in doing so we found that were the hoses come from the radiator wall the fire wall is rusted thru all along the seam from the a/c to the mater cylinder. I am begining to wonder if this car is worth it.

Sidethumper

iTrader: (1)

Nice to see another one getting fixed and put back into service !!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Well, we got the brakes bled and its back up to spec.

Don't scrap your old IROC, gdwrnch. Get it back to reliable and put it back in circulation. The number of these cars is decreasing, and people still like them! Clean up that rust and seal it back up. Don't give up!

gdwrnch

your right, it's just frustrating. the rest of the car is solid, just needs seats & door panels redone along with some minor motor work it does run ok

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Updates!

I finally got the heater controls fixed and working properly. Come to find out, the hacked up vacuum lines under hood going to the interior of the car were hooked up backwards. I also fixed my leaking selector valve with the tips off of this forum which included some simple hardware parts to replace the broken lock pin. Everything switches, ducts and routes properly now.

Since I got all that stuff fixed, I figured its time to get the AC working right. I acquired a condenser from an 84 Trans Am and got it to fit with a little difficulty. I'm not sure why, but it seems that the Trans Am condenser is thicker than the original IROC piece. At first it didn't want to fit all the way down in the rubber mount behind the radiator, so I pulled the rubber mounts out and looked them over. I was surprised to see that the cut outs for the condenser mount were only half the thickness needed. The mounts were marked where they could be cut out to fit the fatter condenser, so I just cut the groove along the factory marks and now the Trans Am piece is snugly and securely mounted. I made the top mount pieces (which were missing, along with the condenser) out of some Ford rubber fuel filler neck hose.

While I had the radiator top mount out, I noticed that the RH radiator fan upper mount had been sawed off and then remounted with a combination of a shoe lace and mechanic's wire. I got some steel angle brackets and remounted the upper fan mount to the radiator mount as a one piece unit again, and painted it black so that it wouldn't jump out at me as a repair every time I look under the hood.

I ordered a used coolant reservoir from third gen ranch, so I'll change that when it gets here.

I cut out the lower areas of my dual air filter box for better air flow and put two new air filters in. I also installed an extra stereo I had lying around and found that both back speakers still work! Yippee!

I went to the junkyard and got a 4th gen driver's side 4 way manual adjust bracket and swapped it in, in place of the factory flat mechanical front to back slider. That's always a nice upgrade.

So the future holds now a few more mods. I will take the car to get the AC system flushed out since its been open, and then a quick charge up with the dye so that I can find out where all the leaks are and fix them. I'll be getting the windows tinted soon since I just razor scraped all the paint off of them from before. I ordered some used but good door panels for my mom's 89 Firebird so that I can take her gray door panels and put them on this IROC. Someone cut out huge speaker holes in the bottoms of each side. Great.

While the door panels are off, I am going to install the new outer window rubbers and repair the passenger side door latch so that you can open the door from the inside.

I still have to fix the fog lights too.

I also need to finish the exhaust. Its gonna be good soon!

gdwrnch

Sounds like our car is coming along with all the issues you had to deal with. It's a shame when people hack stuff up when they don't know what their doing. I finally just about have my cooling system almost back to normal. Installed the dual fans I picked up in Plan City along with the new radiator. Still need to install the new temperature gage & heater core which is going to be a pain. I am also going to fix the rust on the fire wall since it will all be apart & I will be able to get to it easier. Then all I need to do is get the door panels re-done along with the new carpet, sun visors, seats cleaned & covers & outer window seals then I should be almost ready to put this (black demon) on the road.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

There seems to be something going on in Auburndale hahahahhha!

That's where my IROC got hacked to pieces. If it wasn't for TGO, I wouldn't have been able to put this bucket back together. Good luck on yours, too.

Update; someone stopped by and offered me a reasonable sum for the IROC. I'll take it if he actually comes up with the money soon. If not, it will continue in daily driver status until I completely fix it.

gdwrnch

My car was "hacked up on the east coast" I am just trying to get it like the one I owned brand new. Hope he made a decent offer for all the aggravation you have been through.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I just removed the smog pump and re-routed the new, longer belt according to the tech article from our forum here. I'm testing it now, but so far, so good. I'll put some pictures up after I finish testing.

I'm also now fixing the power door locks.

LHernandezJr

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