What is the bore on your block?

Do you like the hedman shorties? I am considering purchasing the 68470 and y-pipe 17478.

 

.030" overbore 350 block.

I had the Hedman 68470 on my car before, with the matching y pipe. Very happy with them, so I got them again.

If I had more cash I would have gotten Dyno Dons for sure though.

 

That Y pipe will not work with 68470.

You need Y pipe 17470.

 

What is the purpose of welding the seams?

 

Increased chassis strength, in theory.

 

When replacing my head gasket, can the head bolts be reuse? I have heard yes and no. What are you doing on your build?

 

Depends on the engine. For a typical sbc yes.

I am using New Jegs Brand Head bolts.

 

These "JEGS Performance Products 83400 - JEGS Head Bolt Kits"?

 

Those are The ones.

 

so which to choose
Head gaskets : Fel Pro 1094 or Chevrolet Performance 10105117
Intake gaskets : Felpro 1204 or Chevrolet Performance 10159409

 

I like fel pro

 

NuffNuff has got me thinking hard about getting a set of the Race Star 17x9.5"s

They are about 14lbs lighter per wheel then may sterns. The 17" tires would be cheaper as well.

Of course that leasves me with a set of modified Stern wheels that I probably can't get much out of.

Anyone want some 18' sterns?

 

2nd set of wheels? I think those racestars will look great on your car. I'll probably order mine from him today.

 

Ordered 4 17"x9.5" race stars!

Gonna strip the gold paint off the sterns, clean them up and put them up for sale.
Anyone interested?

 

Can't wait to see the pictures!

 

Those wheels are gonna make me do a brake upgrade sooner! I have some c5 calipers sitting on the shelf.

 

Question, the 1094 is a thin gasket, are you getting the block and heads shaved?

If not, how much variance is allowed with that head gasket?

 

Heads have been milled flat, chambers cc out to 64cc.

Block was decked as well.

Will measure again when rotating assembley gets back from machine shop, though I expect the pistons to be in the hole a little, so that gasket should get me close to ideal quench.

 

New wheels came today!




fronts clear tie rod.

 

They look GREAT man. I'm glad you're happy with them!

 

Look awesome, mine will be here tomorrow.

 

Been practicing welding, getting back in the hang of it.
Welded my Founders bolt on lcab's.
Also welded the cowl plate for my edelbrock stb to the cowl. Probably pointless, but what the heck!
Also welded a patch in the floor where a po cut an "access hole" for the fuel pump. Will
post pics.
Been working on the slp runners. Shaving a lot of aluminum out of them as well.

 

Not much to update on the iroc, spent last two days working on the daily drivers brake.
Had to replace master cylinder, went to bleed brakes, pass rear bleeder rounded off. Drivers rear would loosen, but Jo fluid would come out, yet brake worked.
Drivers drum would not come off for anything. A lot of pb blaster, prying, beating and a torch finally removed it.
Swapped both wheel cylinders, did sone bleeding.
Drivers front bleeder, rounded off.
Picking up a new caliper tommorrow.
Gotta love working on a 42 year old on restored car!

 

Parts is parts!

Gotta love ordering parts!
Today I ordered,

poly bump stops for the rear.
Hawks HPS pads for the rear to match my fronts
long wheel studs for all four corners
a 3" single in single out Dyno Max Ultraflow muffler.
A3" maderal j bend to make my tailpipe.

I am not a fan of crossflow mufflers, so I went with a high flow single in and out and will tuna single tailpipe turned down behind the bumper like the mufflex system.

Also ordered 1205 intake gaskets to see if I can open the stock intake that much.

Off work the next 2 days, so hopefully I can get some work done.

Machine shop is dragging their feet with my assembly, but that's ok, I have plenty to keep me busy in the mean time.

Probably going to get done 275/40/17 BFG's this week as well.

Can't wait to see it as a roller again!

 

Dam those wheels look badass on you car!! What size tires are you going to run?

 

Thanks! Going with 275/40/17 in all 4 corners.

 

Awesome build i'm all caught up now. BTW im trying to build the same type of engine. I have my 350 torn apart. I am getting the block and stock heads machined real soon. Even with stock heads and a manifold would you recommend that same cam? Just want the same good economy and some pep

Thanks!!

 

I would probably go with the 500 cam with stock ports. That's actually the cam vomp suggested, I went one size bigger.

I am having trouble finding a timing tab.
I went with a jegs balancer, a 6 1/4" diameter, based in them listing it as the proper one for a late model block.

Anyone see any issues using a tab for a 6 3/4" one?

On another note, got the brakes working on my daily driver again!

 

Got some 1205 intake gaskets and have been working on matching the base to them.

 

Rear end, stripped, one coat of Por 15, two coats primer sealer, two coats gloss black, two coats clear.

New brake lines from inline tube.

Carrier caps machined for cover, bolts replaced with ARP studs.
Rear cover torqued to spec.
Got to install new longer wheel studs.

 

Rebuilt capliers installed!
Rear is ready for install, but the body is not ready for it.

Took the panhard bar, lca's, torque arm, strut plates, and other random parts and painted them semi gloss black.

Machine shop called today, block is preped, and rotating assembly is balanced.
Probably pick it up Monday.

Now I need to get moving on painting the underside.
I have pretty much all the parts to start assembling the engine and the rest of the car.

 

man, your car is coming along real nice. really like the rims alot! the rear looks tight! glad to see somebody taking they're time and doing a good job.

 

Just picked up thr block and rotating assembly from thr machine shop.

Ready to assemble!

Got this coming weekend off, should be able to make sone real progress!

Pics to come.

 

What wheels are those?!

 

Those are Stern Hypermesh II.

I just sold them for $300 plus shipping.

 

Got the Block painted last night.

Should have short block assembled by the weekend.

 

Mock up.

As you can tell they had to remove a lot of material from the rear of the crank.


some pistons needed a good bit removed too.

 

Subscribed! Sweeet car bro!

 

Looks great! I am jealous! Can't wait to hear about your results/MPGs !

 

I can't wait either!


So, here's the details.


The Block had been bored when I got it. So, I had the Machine shop hot tank it again, ad Brass Freeze plugs and Dura Bond Cam Bearings.

The Did a light hone to the cylinders due to it sitting so long. Also honed the Lifter Bores.


The Rods were new, but had no name bolts, so I had ARP Wave Lock bolts installed, and had the rods resized. The Also pressed on the New Speed Pro pistions.

The Crank is a New Eagle cast, and as you can see, they took a lot out of it to balance it.

The rotating assembly was fully balanced.

I cleaned the block and chased all the bolt holes.

Wiped it down with wax and grease remover (just the surfaces to be painted)
Masked the block off, put 3 coats of VHT Eangine Paint Primer on it, followed by 3 coats of VHT Gloss Black, and last 2 coats of VHT Clear.

As you can see, studs are installed for the oil pan and timing cover.

New ARP Main bolts are being used as well.

Going to mock it up to check clearances, and should have the shortblock buttoned up by the weekend.

 

Just picked up my Camshaft from the MAchine shop. Due to some recent issues with Comp Cams, I had them Polish the journals on it to make surre it doesn't wipe out my bearings.

Should get the shortblock assembled this weekend, and hopefull get the under hood and floor painted as well.

 

Shortblock blueprinted and assembled!



rear axle ready to roll under body!




Progress!!

 

what did you torque your heads and intake too ?
Did you go with the 68 lb ft on the jeg bolts ?

 

Quench is gonna be a little tight, .035". Compression cones out to 10.29:1
Guess I'll be running 92 octane!
It's that or thicker headgaskets, which would drop the compression to 9.73:1 and quench at a poor .059"!

 

Heads are not yet installed.

 

So turns out the timing cover would not work. Would not allow oil pan to sit flat.
I have seen many timing covers are listed for up to '86 engines. I could not find any that listed for later models.
So I saw Canton Racing had a cover, but it did not list years, so I emailed them. Withen an hour I had a reply stating it fit the 1 piece rear main blocks!
A click later and I have a cover coming. It's steel, and gold, like their pans, and just as nice, I'm sure. I'd like to run one of their pans, but can't really justify it for my dd at the moment.

Also, curious on the cam. I plugged it into desktop dyno, and it showed good gains 4*retarded.

Of course DD seems optimistic for my build, 369hp@4500rpm??

 

New canton timing cover painted and installed.

Spent a good bit of yesterday under the car with a wire wheel on a grinder cleaning the underside.

Then went to the local track to watch the outlaw steet cars race.

Getting ready to head back out to the garage to hopefully finish prepping the undercarriage. I hope to get paint sprayed on in tomorrow.

Things will start moving fast then.

 

Sweet build! Would have liked to see those other wheels mounted. What was the offset and what did you have to do to get them to fit?

 

Not much too update, got distracted by a couple other paint jobs. Should be down with them after next weekend and then I'll be back on the iroc.

 

Haven't worked on the iroc in thr last week,
decided to paint my daily driver.

Warning, not third gen safe!