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Go get em. You may regret not pulling that trigger!
I’m definitely thinking about it. It’s hard to tell what kind of shape they’re in though. Plus now days chrome irocs are on everything so they weren’t what I had in mind...but damn they are a good looking wheel. Lol
I actually only have three factory irocs with no good rubber so I’ve gotta spend money one way or another. I’ve had zero luck finding a factory Iroc wheel local
Last edited by Billgluckman; 11-13-2018 at 07:14 PM.
Spent more time on the wiring and loom. Obd2 port wired up and working, alternator is charging, shortened several wires, all gauges working except tach and speedo.
Also filled it up with coolant and ran it for a while. All seems good. First test drive coming soon just need brakes.
Last edited by Billgluckman; 11-29-2018 at 07:37 PM.
I’ve got brake parts coming. Realized yesterday that my booster had surface rust and looked pretty rough.
For all you rattle can guys, if you have a compressor, even a tiny one, you can run a mini hvlp. This paint is cheap and holds up way better. I’ve used this on my engine block, crossmember, and anything else you see that I’ve painted black.
It would be perfect for that. The only draw back I’ve found is that it takes more maintenance to keep a gloss if it’s exposed to the sun, but I’ve also never waxed it.
Yeah there’s a whole thread dedicated to it in the body section. It works well for the price, I think you can get a gal and all parts for under $70. I’m not sure what cheap single stage paint sells for at the parts stores though but I’m betting it’s double at least
Pulled the worn out factory 9 bolt and replaced it with a 4th gen rear from a 97 formula that had 111k miles on the odometer. Installed new rotors/pads and used the lt1 brake set up. Used all new brake hoses all around and new hard line from master cyl to rear end.
FYI: the 9 bolt is a much heavier rear end. I did not expect how much heavier it is than the 10 bolt. If I knew everything I know now I probably would’ve bit the bullet rebuilt the 9 bolt. The biggest reason I went with the swap is because I got the 10 bolt for $75.
The other issue with the 4th gen swap is the different width. Everyone knows the 4th gen rear is wider but I thought I would be ok with it. After mocking up my factory 3rd gen wheels...It looks horrible.
So the car has brakes, and obviously it’s not in the shop anymore. I finally got to drive it.
I’ve still got to go in and change the tune.i purchased Hptuners mpvi2 a while back and it has been a nightmare, but that’s a long story. Basically I’ve had nothing but problems with it and I’m now going to have to purchase credits to tune a pcm that I’ve already purchased credits for. Right now the pcm is tuned for a stock 5.3 but my engine is a 4.8 with ls1 intake and injectors. It’s running a little rich, I think mostly due to the different injectors.
Even with the tune being off it runs great. Feels strong for what it is. Also the newer rear end made a huge difference. There was a lot of slop and noise in the 9 bolt.
Since I needed 4th gen wheels to compensate for the wider rear end I picked up a set of c6’s. I never thought I’d put wheels this big on the car but as with everything else with this car I got a good deal. Lol
Yeah, a buck and a half on those Vette wheels is a great deal.
The funny thing is the guy was asking $400. I sent him a message asking if he still had them and his reply was “yeah I’ll take $150 if you come get them”
done. Lol
Originally Posted by dmccain
Nice score on those wheels! Almost bought a set of black vette wheels myself when I was in the market
The guy I bought these from was selling them because he bought the exact same wheels in black. I think I would’ve just scuffed and sprayed but it worked out for me so whatever.
Made a bracket to mount the overflow tank out of sight. It sits directly in front of one of the air ducts to radiator but I don’t think it will be a problem. If it is I’ll make changes.
I tried out a new gun I’d just bought on this area and I definitely won’t use it again to spray primer. I knew better but I wanted to try it. It was a mini hvlp with a 0.8 nozzle. You can see “tiger striping” on the area that above the windshield. It just wasn’t spraying the product well and the fan was way too small. My technique kinda went to **** trying compensate but it’ll be sanded and covered with surfacer later anyway.
My phone took a dump and I lost a few pics but nothing important. I got the doors stripped and primed. Moved on to fenders. More rust spots, all the small specs were under the paint.
I tried to find a good bumper but no luck. I had this laying around, had about 10 layers of paint on it.
This bumper wasn’t perfect either but in way better shape so I’ll go with it. I circled that white spot to show that the pic is of the same area. Bumper cracks will go away if you keep sanding.
lots of work into this thing. More work than I should have, but I was afraid to order a used one online and once inspected in person it be just as bad as the one I already have. I had to sand though all the cracking and I used 2 products to fill it back up...
I see a lot of people who are scared and confused about repairing these bumpers and I was one of these people. I used the 2 part epoxy to fill the low spots then the polyflex to smooth it all out. Everything I read online said that a polyurethane bumper requires adhesion promoter. According to Barry at spi this is incorrect, it doesn’t need it. I already had the adhesion promoter but followed his advice and started with 2 light coats of epoxy primer then 2 coats of surfacer. I guess time will tell but as of now everything is adhered just fine. There are two low spots in the bumper I wasn’t able to see before i primed it but overall I’m happy with it. I’ll address those spots before paint.
So I stripped and primed this hood a couple years ago. All the work was done outside before I moved to my new house with the shop. When I moved I leaned this thing up against the wall on the back side of the shop and it has sat outside in the weather with the nose in the dirt since.
Besides sitting out in the weather for a couple years I decided it was best to redo everything because 1: I stripped/primed this outside the first time and 2: I really had no idea what I was doing at the time and I trust my work more now that I have a little experience. I laid the epoxy on way too heavy when I did this and it was obvious when I started stripping it. Plus I still have a lot of work to do on this thing
I considered going aftermarket replacement by OER but everything I read says it fits horrible.
Last edited by Billgluckman; 09-06-2020 at 10:47 PM.
^^^this is the worst dent. I think I’m gonna have to get it out as good as I can and then bolt the fenders to the car and make sure the front corner isn’t tweaked upward.
^^^this damage isn’t easy to see but the area in front of the passenger louver has multiple dents.
I just remembered I had this hood on the car for a bit. Goin off this picture it doesn’t appear that the hood is bent on that front corner. I think it just needs the dent removed.
Also looking back over this thread reminds me, I never planned to do all this to this car. Lol
That engine bay looks good man!! How much paint did it take you?
I really wanted to paint my engine bay before a drop the motor back in, but I can't decide on a color for the car.
What size air compressor you using for the sand blaster? I have a few spots on my car I would like to blast..
i basically have 2 30 gallon compressors linked together. I think one is actually a 26/29 gallon. Everybody assumes I have problems using a sandblasted because they say you need a big compressor to sandblast. I’m sure you do if you’re sandblasting an entire car but if you’re just hitting small sections at a time it doesn’t really matter.
Originally Posted by Destro Camaro
That engine bay looks good man!! How much paint did it take you?
I really wanted to paint my engine bay before a drop the motor back in, but I can't decide on a color for the car.
Im not too sure on how much paint but it’s epoxy/surfacer/base/clear. I bought a quart of base and clear and still have a good bit left.
Single stage black is pretty universal when it comes to engine bays. I had a hard time deciding color and every time I see a nice blue Iroc I regret my decision. But, I always wanted a red Iroc z, I can’t have a real Iroc so this will have to do.
Last edited by Billgluckman; 10-06-2019 at 06:17 PM.
Pretty close. Accidentally burned a hole in one spot(far right). Luckily it’s one of the few places I can actually get to the back side and seal up once it’s welded shut.
^^ I need to get the hood on the car to be 100% sure it isn’t tweaked. I bought these replacement hinges a while back and so far I gotta say they’re not great. There’s slack in rear rivet on both sides and the passenger side twists as it opens. I’m not sure if I’ll try to exchange them or try to make them work. $150+ in them it’s kind of disappointing. I have a feeling if I exchange them I’ll have the same problem.
Last edited by Billgluckman; 10-14-2019 at 12:45 PM.
Hopping from forum to forum...this is the first thread I saw here today...sorta forgot where I was for a moment...I thought you'd bought an Oldsmobile (88).
I haven’t bought a delta 88 yet but don’t put it past me.
I think i can work with the hinges. I set the hood on in the short time I had this evening and they work better than I expected. For whatever reason when you close the hood the passenger wants to not lower fully, but if you give it a little push it does. This is the side that twists and has a catch. I think it needs to be bent a little. Problems like this is why I didn’t buy a factory replacement hood.
In shocking news though...it’s looking like the alternator will clear this hood. That’s big for me because I’m sick of spending money lol
Think this is the first time I’m running across this thread unless I just forgot. Enjoyed reading and seeing your progress. I’m very similar in that I have a hard time passing up good deals! Lol. Some great work you’ve done so far, consider yourself an inspiration to us all!
I didn’t polish them but I noticed they have a nice finish as soon as I pulled them out of the package. I was planning on leaving them how they are but I talked to a guy yesterday that has these hinges (he had same issue with loose rivets) and he said they actually rusted on him so I guess I’ll end up painting them.
Think this is the first time I’m running across this thread unless I just forgot. Enjoyed reading and seeing your progress. I’m very similar in that I have a hard time passing up good deals! Lol. Some great work you’ve done so far, consider yourself an inspiration to us all!
Cory
This thread has a tendency to fall to the bottom of the page due to slow updates. Hopefully I can keep it at the top for a little while and make some progress. There’s several “good deals” I bought, fixed, and sold that I never posted in this thread lol. I get distracted easily. Lol
Very nice work, you're doing a lot of things I plan to do to my car in the next two years(hopefully)
But you did help me solve a strange mystery on my car. I've had it for 13 years now and its always been completely rust free, but my paint started bubbling with rust spots underneath out of no where. I'm slowly fixing the spots as a temporary repair, but it never made sense why it was happening. After seeing you taking the car down to bare metal it makes sense, I think in the long run bare metal before paint is going to be the best option for me too.
Any thoughts on how that happens? I imagine that moisture trapped under the original primer wouldn't take so many years to show, that it would show in the first maybe 5 years or less.
Very nice work, you're doing a lot of things I plan to do to my car in the next two years(hopefully)
But you did help me solve a strange mystery on my car. I've had it for 13 years now and its always been completely rust free, but my paint started bubbling with rust spots underneath out of no where. I'm slowly fixing the spots as a temporary repair, but it never made sense why it was happening. After seeing you taking the car down to bare metal it makes sense, I think in the long run bare metal before paint is going to be the best option for me too.
Any thoughts on how that happens? I imagine that moisture trapped under the original primer wouldn't take so many years to show, that it would show in the first maybe 5 years or less.
I really don’t know, maybe there’s microscopic paint chipping/failure that can’t be seen with the naked eye and lets in moisture. All I know is the entire car was covered in tiny rust specks. I never planned to go down to metal all over but I couldn’t just prime over it.
My project has been on hold over a damn fender. These cars are so much harder to find on my area now days. Every time I find one they’re always completely screwed or picked clean. Today I drove out of town because a junk yard had one 3rd gen camaro...
WOW! Heat treated steel! I picked up 2 good used fenders for my 1989 IROC Z Vert, about 5 years ago. Are they reproduced? Any good?
I bough a brand new fender a couple weeks ago. I had to enlarge the holes to get it to move around enough to get it even close to lining up and it’s far from perfect. I may end up having to use it though.
Same here with 3rd gens at the JY. Been looking for weeks for an early auto shifter for a project.Never one around when you need them.
Nope they’re either crushed or sitting in someone’s yard rotting and they refuse to sell. When I started looking for a 3rd gen I had remembered where there was an early z28 that had been sitting in someone’s yard since I was a kid, I’m 33 now. I stopped to check on it but the old guy said he was gonna have it restored. No joke, this car was sitting in the exact same spot it was sitting when I was 12. Lol
Ive gotta move on from this fender. I had to make a relief cut on the back side where the skin is spot welded to the inner structure and bend and beat on that area where the body filler is. Before doing that, that upper corner was just nowhere near where it should be. Also enlarged all the “through” holes for more adjustment. Be prepared to work if you ever order one of these. The brand is ”CK”.
Next step is to get the hood and bumper cover on and make sure there’s no issues on that end. I’m afraid it’ll be just as much of a problem but maybe I’ll get lucky. Hopefully I’ll have some help later to get that big *** hood on.
So that fender just isn’t working. The gap between fender and hood was too wide and I could never center the hood where the gap was equal on each side. If this was a one off show car type build you could add metal down the length of the hood and it would be un noticeable but then if something happens in the future and you need to replace the fender you’ll be modding it all again. I’m not doing that.
Ive been watching all the local yards for thirdgens and one actually popped up in the inventory Friday.
Definitely not a real Iroc. Check out the speaker they had screwed into the dash. I actually need a dash so that was a bummer. It was busted and cracked where they ran the screw through
11-13-2018, 07:10 PM
