robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

I totally ripped off your strut tower brace, but I love it. thanks for the idea:

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

What rear springs are you using?

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Yup, your thread was the reason I went with these with confidence they'd fit.
I've been eyeballing these ones lately, tho without their y-pipe...
https://www.kooksheaders.com/1982-19...-3-header.html
Almost tempted to buy them and let them sit on my shelf until I rebuild the engine. So many third gen products come and go without warning and you're left regretting not getting it when it was still available.

How dare you! I copied mine fair and square from a thread by Twigger!

Rear springs are 200lbs 9” on the rear from Ground Control with custom adjusters (about the same height adjustment as the GC ones).

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Got around to do some more interior wiring on the Teal car, enough to fire it up. My simple security switch even fooled me. Key on... no fuel pump. Hmmm. Crank Crank Crank to prime oil anyways. Went to pull out my notes to see what fuse and relay to check, then remember I didn't turn on the hidden in plain sight security switch. Did that and it fired right up. The nice thing with the way the switch is wired is I only need to turn it on, with the ignition on, then turn it off and it will still start.



The engine had an odd noise and smell. This is the first time I've heard it with the exhaust on. Noise it hard to describe, and I didn't run it too long. There was some smoke I assume from oil/handprints burning off the headers. In the few seconds it did run, the idle started to climb, so I'll need to check for vacuum leaks as well. Before I do anything else, I need to finish off the gauge cluster wiring.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Wired up the gauge cluster. It looks pretty cool. More importantly, it showed the car does have oil pressure when running, which is a big relief.



Still sounds odd, tho it may just be the exhaust leak, so I tightened up the header bolts on the passenger side, as well as the flange to the Y-pipe.
Some other things that will have to be sorted. The power steering fluid is very aerated, which is probably right since I don't think I bled /turned the wheels back and forth after filling it. I hope that's the vacuum sound I'm hearing. I'll get the front end in the air to do that.

The other thing is I feel like I'm adding coolant to the overflow too much. The level keeps going down. I've not ran the car very long as it still increases the revs after 30 seconds and I don't know why. A bit bummed about it all.

One more thing the gauge cluster reminded me of is that I should have done something about the front side markers. I now remember reading a thread about people that replaced all their bulbs with LEDs and how the gauge cluster would illuminate the turn signals when the parking lights were on. I still have incandescent side markers. The rear license plate would also blink with the turn signals. I think I'll either have to run the side markers thru a relay or figure something else out. I was able to remove the passenger side side-marker easy enough and that seemed to fix all the issues for that side.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Me, too. I'm going to continue to wait for HDX custom - for Firebirds.


I like what they did for you!

STREETDEMON

What kind of tuning have you done to the ECU? Might need some run time to sort some stuff out like IAC(didn't go back and look, but I'm thinking you're DBC)? The power steering and coolant issues sound normal for a "new" build. Did you burp the coolant system?

WTR388

How well does the ranger lower hose fit for you?
I had the 7.3L hose on and it wasn't a snug enough fit on the rad and would leak... I'm just about to order a bunch of parts from rock auto, and would like to know if it was snug for you.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Sorry for the late reply, but the Ranger hose fits fine, tho I still haven't really gotten it up to temperature or pressure yet. Tuning was just a mail order to Frost with a list of what little modifications I have. Once it's street-worthy, I'll get it tuned again. Mine is DBC. I know it's going to be a slow-ish process with hurdles to verify all systems are working properly to be safe on the road. The little issues like a exhaust or vacuum or coolant leaks or a wire too close to something hot I expected. Really wasn't prepared to what I fear could be catastrophic, so I've been reluctant to do anything on the car the past few weeks since we had some other stuff going on with life.

Best thing to do is to get back into the garage and get some things marked off the checklist so it doesn't become a completely stagnant project. The dash needed to go back and I was a bit concerned I could get it back with all the screws and the harness in the proper spot.



It ended up not being a big deal. I forgot to take a picture, but I used the 3M 1755 friction tape for the interior harnesses. Dash went back in without much of a fight. Motivation building back up again...

My original plan was to use the 4th gen steering wheel and column. Since I ended up using the third gen column, my Astro steering shaft was now 90* out. I already had the end of the shaft swapped out with the 4th gen coupler to make it 100% plug and play, so I didn't want to start over. I sent the shaft back to WalterRacecraft and he hooked me up rotating it to align with the steering.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I took some time to decide how to handle the Dakota Digital modules. I wanted it to sit behind the cluster but there really wasn't room. Behind the dash is the HVAC ductwork, so it couldn't go there either. To compound that, the wiring for the cluster was a touch short to attach to the module. I really didn't want to lengthen those wires for just a few inches.

I ended up ordering a few molex connectors. This way I could easily put one connector end on the car harness and the other end would be free to have as much length wire I needed. The modules needed maybe 1/4" to safely fit behind the cluster, so I opened up the dash enough to put the mounting flanges behind it with the rest of the module sticking thru the hole I cut. The molex connectors allowed me to securely connect the wires to the module outside the car, put it in place and plug it in.



I couldn't find the ziploc bag for the screws to attach the cluster, but thankfully I have enough thirdgen spare nuts and bolts sitting around to find the correct ones.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Got the rest of the gauge surround in. The DD uses a 2-way momentary switch to get to the menu's. I replaced that with two momentary switches (U16A1 from Amazon) into the gauge surround. Also put a tiny red LED in the surround hooked up to the security light on the VATS.





I was again reminded I need to do something about the front side markers. For the time being, I replaced the side marker bulbs with amber Sylvania LEDs, so that it won't backfeed to the cluster. With the parking lights off, they blink with the turn signals. With the parking lights on, they don't do anything at all. I'll fix this later with another DRL module. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/...rkerflash.html

VIDEO
Click above for Video of the cluster in Demonstration Mode.

Very pleased with the looks. Right now, the cruise light comes on upon start up, and the fuel gauge takes a moment before it gets info from the PCM, so I get that error for the first few seconds. No big deal.

Put the car back up into the air for some rework. Pulled off the wheels and gave the steering a good back and forth to get some of the air out the system. I also pulled back off the brake master cylinder since the front reservoir had gone dry. Tightened a few fittings and found the one into the distribution block was the culprit. Rebled the master with some Motul 5.1, hooked it back up and had the wife stand on the brakes while I checked for leaks. I think we're good this time. I'll bleed them later once the seat gets installed.

Still sounds odd when I fire it up, and still idles high, then climbs even higher, so I'm hesitant to let it run for long as I don't want to trash the block. I know I'll have to address it sometime, but I can put it off another week.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I think that once the engine is warmed up and at idle the idle air control valve is fully seated to the throttle body. You could pull the IAC valve and tape off the passages. You might have to feather the throttle to keep it from dying at first but it should work. I'd also put a piece of tape over the pintle on the IAC to make sure nothing spins off. Or you could leave the IAC valve on and start the engine and as soon as it starts disconnect the IAC connector.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Some very good news today (and the reason I'm motivated to update this thread).

We put my mother-in-laws car up for sale the other week, and last weekend had a guy come check it out. He said he was happy with it but wanted to bring his mechanic over for his opinion. During the week, he returns with his brother-in-law, checks out the car, finds a few things I never noticed (broken motor mount) and we knocked off another $200. He had seen the teal car during the weekend and we chatted a bit since he owned the cam'd C5 they pulled up in. I requested that, since I knocked off that extra hundred bucks, would he mind smelling my car. He agreed, and after a few minutes of it running, they were convinced it was just paint burning off plus the new cats could be accounting for the smell, as the smoke seemed to come from the back of the engine. They listened to the bottom end, and thought that all the noises were not internal, maybe a belt or just coming from the air filter.

I was a bit relieved for this second opinion. So this weekend, in a moment of stupidity for not checking my notes, I decided to changed the transmission fluid as a precaution, thinking it was still the old stuff and could be low. As I was draining out 4 qts of bright red, fresh fluid, I thought, hmmm, maybe I did change it. I lifted up the 1 gallon jug of ATF that was sitting on the shelf to pour back into the T56, and my 2nd thoughts were confirmed as it only had less than 1/2qt in it. Shoulda checked my notes first. A quick run to Autozone for more fluid, a huge mess on the garage floor getting it filled back up, and I was back to square one for the day.

Started up the car again and let it run for a few minutes. The high idle, the smell, some smoke, then higher idle were all still there. Turned the wheel back and forth and I think the p/s is good now. The wooshing I really think is from the air filter. The odd smell started to go away, as well as the smoke. Disconnected the IAC and the TPS, no change. Check engine light popped on, so I turned the car off. Then, the distinct sound of fluid dripping on something hot was heard. At the collector on the passenger side, there was a puddle of green fluid dripping off if it. My first thought was it was coming from inside the header... no it was too green and not oily. Has to be either the coolant sender above or the heater core connection dripping down onto the exhaust. Okay, easy fix, but lets check the codes first.

First code was P0650, CEL circuit. Second code was idle being P0507, Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected. Yeah, no kidding. It's probably some massive vacuum leak. The wife asked about the throttle body, and I said it was ported. She asked by who. I replied Pots. She said other people had issues with ones done on the cheap, but a Pots throttle body should be okay. I doubted it was the Idle Air Valve, but her questions got me thinking that the one that was currently on the car was the one that came with the poorly ported throttle body that came with my LS6 intake. Before spending a bunch of time looking for what I knew was going to be a vacuum leak, I cleaned up the cruddy IAC that was original to the car and stuck it in just to verify it wasn't the issue. Didn't think it would be since there was no change when I unplugged the IAC earlier.

Lo-and-behold, the car fired up and idles around ~900rpm. No wooshing from the intake as it's not screaming along at nearly 2500rpm.

*edit* Tibo, where were you last week??

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

For the first time since around January 2016, the teal car runs and moves under it's own power once again. Adjusted the ride height a bit (up in the rear, down in the front) before dropping it to the ground, firing it up and engaging the clutch (and testing the brakes!)
Click the top picture for video.









Two running third gens again!

Took it for a trip around the block with no issues. Needs an alignment obviously. I let it idle a bit in the garage and the temp gauge starting climbing quite high and the fans were not kicking on. Something I'll have to look into.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I finally went through all the settings on the Dakota Digital VHX dash. Set the odometer to the 120,980 that the car has on it. Started to think about the fans and the high temps when I remembered Scooter's post about the artificially high readings. Sure enough, the DD sender reads about 20* higher than the PCM output, so I changed the dash to just read the PCM info. Low fans come on around 205. Thanks again Scooter!

One odd thing I've noticed is the RPM's are a bit delayed.

rurnt88

iTrader: (1)

Video does not work for me

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Hmm.. You're right. I had to open it in another tab. Try this.
CLICK FOR FIRST RUN VIDEO

rurnt88

iTrader: (1)

Now it says "Video can't be played because file is corrupt".

No matter, this has been an awesome project to follow.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

As long as you're aware it's off it doesn't really matter what it shows, just watch for it to climb

STREETDEMON

Awesome, way to get it going! What are your initial thoughts on muffler choice?

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I like it so far. My wife says it's "balanced", tho really haven't heard it more than at idle or reved under no load. A good bit quieter than the flowmaster on the LT1 in Kocker.

Will try to get some audio sometime soon.

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

What dimensions specifically are you looking for? I'll see what I can dig up.

As far as the spindles, Nick (Burro) was that one that keyed me onto the differences when he was upgrading his CMC car to 1le brakes.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...ndles-1le.html

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I cut the throttle cable a little shorter and tightened it back up in the Uni-Link end. Will need to drive it a bit to see if I want to bend the pedal to line up better for heel-toe.

I wired up the ALDL, really for the aig bag codes. Put in an amber LED for the air bag light, and also a red LED for the CEL light, hopefully to avoid a P0650 code. Just ground two of the pins and count the numbers for the airbag codes. It's tucked way under the passenger side near the trans tunnel. Currently has a code 26, which is an open in steering column circuit, probably from starting the car without the yellow connector at the bottom of the column plugged in.



Also finished up wiring the Axxess ASWC-1 module for the steering wheel controls and wiring for a few extra USB/12V outlets. That should be everything done on the interior wiring.

I think my trans sits up a bit higher than most because the lower shift boot didn't fit very nicely over the back of it. I read a lot of people just use the 4th gen one, but I think that's for people converting from auto's to T56's. I cut out the center and trimmed the back portion of the 3rd gen one, but it left a decent enough hole from interior to exterior at the back. I simply put the 4th gen lower boot on and screwed 2 screws at the back. Also threw on the 4th gen upper shifter book . Not very neat, but should keep the heat and sound out plus it's all hidden under the 3rd gen shifter boot.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

After who knows how long, the house is empty of third gen parts! Reinstalled the original carpet after a quick vacuum. The seats are just 4th gen Trans Am seats that I got off craigslist back in Feb 2016. They've been touring the office, dining room, and spare bedroom ever since then. I screwed in 4th gen convertible seat belt guides (p/n's 16717202 & 16717203) to the seats and tossed them in. Finally got to test out the new seat belt buttons. Rear seats are still the 3rd gen cloth since I didn't want that oh-so-tiny gap. I'll get everything recovered in black leather at some point.



Drivers's side A-pillar trim was also reinstalled with new clips (LilParts p/n's 20462090 & 363137). The radio and center console went back in with the exception of the bezel which I want to get 3D printed from 7thDarkAngel's files. Hush panel and knee panel on the drivers side still also need to go back in later so I can mess with the OBDII port a bit.





Not sure what shifter I have (SS Hurst or standard), but simply by rotating the stick 180*, it fits the console very nicely without being close to shiter plate in any gear.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I made a little plate from some ABS sheet I have to fit the ashtray. I tried to get something a bit more complex 3D printed, but didn't get very far. This will do for now. I wired in a lighted switch since I didn't want to blue to bleed out when the cover was closed and distract me driving. Button and ports are all just Chinese ones from eBay. There's the additional USB port just infront/under the parking brake handle (stole that idea from someone on TGO) that has a cover. The factory port is always hot, the one by the parking brake is hot with ignition on, and these two are hot with ignition on + switch.

STREETDEMON

Looks good!

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Thanks!

I had to tear down the column again to fix the "7 o'clock" issue. Ordered and installed oversized tilt pins from Unbalanced Engineering ( www.unbalancedengineering.com/GM/Pins/ ). The housing was only slightly wallowed out, so it took some force to get these pins in as they are .005 oversize. A .002 or .003 would have probably done the trick for me. Once it was all back together, there is absolutely zero slop in the wheel in the 7 o'clock direction. I'll take it.

Then we waited for the sun to go down and pulled the car out to aim the headlights against the garage. Hopefully the inspection place won't look too closely at them since they are E-Codes. The cut-off is fairly crisp. I'm very pleased with the LED front turn signals, rear brake lights, and licence plate lights. I still need to fix the front side markers before taking it for inspection.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

With nearly everything back in/on the car, the 3rd gen buzzer was starting to get on my nerves.

It buzzes with the ignition off/door open, which is a good reminder, but I have the option of pulling the key out slightly from the ignition switch stops that, unlike newer cars when you really have to remove the key completely from the ignition switch to make it stop.
It buzzes with ignition off/headlights on. I still want this reminder. Quite often it's dark when I leave for work, but light enough when I get there not to realize the headlights are still on.
It buzzes when you don't put on your seatbelt. Disclaimer: Always wear a seatbelt. I grew up always wearing a seatbelt so it feels weird for me not to wear one, so I don't need the reminder to put it on. As some others have mentioned, it's really annoying when working on a car or going the 100ft from my mailbox to the house. I want to be able to disable this 'feature'

I'm not sure why people are saying to cut the yellow wire, I guess it depends on the year. My '92 service manual says the black wire connects to the seatbelt switch "Open with LH Seat Belt Buckled". So I could either bend/break the "E" tab on the convenience center alarm module, cut that black wire or just disconnect the connector at the seat belt base. I tried to bend the tab back on the box, but it ended up breaking it off the circuit board inside. Oops. It still worked, but now I didn't have the option to revert back to stock.

So I started looking for an LT1 4th gen module, p/n 14101255, but they're out of stock too at most places. Looked at some cadillac ones, but they all wanted $50+ and I wasn't 100% sure they were pinned the same. I got lucky and found a fellow CMC racer still had one in his parts car which he gave to me. No breaking/bending the tab this time. The ding-ding isn't nearly as annoying, and if I get tired of the seatbelt reminder, I'll just unplug the connector at the seatbelt (circuit open when buckled).

Out with the old...


in with the new.


Also plugged in one of those cheapy OBDII scanner adapter things that works with the Torque app. It reads at a slow refresh rate. Not sure if it's the adapter or something else causing that.

STREETDEMON

My torque app works in real time, I'm guessing it's the adapter. One of the best $30 total I've ever spent...adapter/torque pro.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I think you're right. I ordered a replacement "enhanced" version to see if that makes any difference. I need to swap this one out for the one in Knocker and see if that makes a difference, and swap the Dakota Digital OBDII interface with the other OBDII port too since the RPM's in the dash also read a touch slow (tho nowhere near as badly delayed as the scanner). I'll come back to this after a few other things get crossed off the to-do list.

I've been trying to install my GenTex mirror for seemingly weeks now. The wiring I did earlier, but I have been fighting with getting the metal button to stick to the windshield. The car had the mirror nowhere close to center when I first bought it. I'm guessing the windshield has been replaced at some point. Everytime I'd glue the button on the windshield, wait at LEAST a day, it'd pop right off when tightening the mirror onto it, or plugging in the connector, or the slightest adjustment. I tried the permatex stuff from the parts store and ordered the loctite from Amazon. Finally, this last time with another package of permatex, I adjusted the mirror before tightening it (slide it off, adjust, slide it on, repeat), then oh-so-gently tighened the mirror on the button. So far it's staying up.

I really wanted two things, the built in homelink garage door opener, and map lights. GNTX-341 fit the bill. The autodimming is a bonus (if it bugs me, I can turn that bit off). A lot of the mirrors no longer have map lights. Loads of them have the compass/temp built into them, but that's not for me. If I want that later, I'll add it thru the VXH dash.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I've been starting and running the car in the garage quite a bit with only a few gallons (if that) in the tank. I could totally see it running dry and me spending time pulling my hair out trying to diagnose the problem thinking it was something else. So, I made a quick trip to the gas station to put $20 worth of gas in it (not filled just in case for whatever reason I need to drop the tank). Still trying to build confidence in the car and my work. Anyways, the CEL popped up on the way there. That Torque app really is invaluable and I highly recommend it to anyone with an OBDII vehicle. I checked the code which came back as a P0327, Knock Sensor (KS) Signal Circuit Front.

I already have a car named Knocker, so really don't want a repeat. That said, it is a 200k+ mile engine, so it's not entirely unreasonable that I may be rebuilding it sooner than later. Hopefully it's something in the wiring or, what my gut is telling me, noise from the headers sitting on the engine crossmember. When I first installed them, there was a little bit of clearance. Now, with the exhaust on and off a few times and a few startups, I think all the new bushings and mounts have settled. There was also a touch of play in the headers to the heads before you tighten the header bolts. The rear of the exhaust has a hanger, but the front only hangs off the headers. There is no hanger like stock off the trans. May need to rectify that. Cross one thing off the checklist, add a new one back on.

STREETDEMON

The joys of shakedown. Took me a year to find a random missfire. Was never strong enough to set the exact cylinder. Took a noid light set and a lot of patience!

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Drove the car down to the NTB that has the in ground lift/alignment rack. The mechanic said they could only set the toe as they don't have the tool to set the caster and camber. I was prepared for this as they tried the same BS last time I got Knocker aligned. That time I told the guy to get me a 1/2" socket and a rubber mallet and did it myself on the rack. This time I brought my own tools. It's a bit of a joke as a third gen is not difficult to adjust. I'm not really familiar with a lot of other cars, but these at least don't require shims or eccentric washers or whatnot.



They sell "warranty" alignments where you bring it back however many times in 6 month, 1, 3, or 5 years, and they set it again and again. I told the mechanic that the 'tool' was just a turnbuckle that acts as a third hand to hold the strut mount in place. I didn't want to waste his time, but if the caster/camber numbers were off and they refused to set them, I'd let him set toe, back it off the rack into the parking lot, adjust it myself, and make them do it again until it was right. I told him to show me the readout before he adjusted anything.

Turns out, I did a not-half-bad job of setting the caster/camber. I usually set Knocker at max equal caster, max camber, zero toe. This has a bit less camber, which will be fine for a streetcar. It could do with a little less caster on the left side for the road crown, but I'll leave it as is for now to see if it's even noticeable. The guy set the toe and corrected the slight off of center steering wheel.

Also good to see the rear is fairly straight.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

A few days ago, I made a visit to a FedEx Office store and ordered some stickers. I designed them simply in Excel to match my current fuse / relay box schematic. They printed them on matte laminated vinyl with adhesive backing and I picked them up. I got two sets for about $25, one color and one black & white in case the color fades later and becomes unreadable. I made a layout for each side of the lid so depending on where you lay the lid down, it will match the fuse box (the lid only goes on one way). Pretty pleased with how well these turned out even though it's something nobody will ever see or know it's even there but me.

I realize most swap harnesses really cut down on the number of fuses and relays. I like having it close to the stock LS1 schematics such as 3 relays for the fans and fuses split up. It will make diagnosing issues in the future easier to track down when it works just like or at least very close to what the service manual says it should.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

When I was looking for a solution to stop the turn signals in the dash from lighting up dimly when the parking lights are on since I have all LEDs, I came across this...
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/...rkerflash.html

Basically, by using a DRL module, I could make the side markers flash with the turn signals regardless of if the parking lights were on or off. Now, it does change them from stock in that now they always flash in-sync with the front turn signals. Fine by me. I bought the DRL-1 module from webelectricproducts.com, which I think is identical if not the exact same one used in the pictures. I know I could have done it cheaper with a few relays, but this is nice and self contained.
One deceiving thing was the size. A bit bigger than I imagined. Not a big deal as I mounted them to the battery tray on the drivers side using a 1-1/8" loop clamp.

mwfrels

Thanks for posting this up. I had wanted to do DRLs years ago but being electrically illiterate and I could not find anything easily adaptable at the time forgot about it. I can add another bullet to the project list..

M

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I drove the car (this time without a chase truck!) to the state inspection place we normally go to. It was threatening to rain so I hit the wipers as we were leaving the house. Nothing. The inspection place is fairly lax so we chanced it and went anyways. Since it only needs the safety inspection, the guy checked all the lights, and that was pretty much it. I had disconnected the battery to do the side marker wiring, so there was no CEL on at the inspection place, not that it would have mattered. He passed it with no issues. We then proceeded to drive to the tax assessor office to pay for and pick up my registration sticker. Woo-hoo! Street legal again!

The CEL came back on as we left the inspection place. P0327 and P0332, front and rear knock sensors. Also discovered the cruise and steering wheel radio controls are not working. Boo. Like Streetdemon said, the joys of a shakedown.

I checked the wiper fuse when we got home, and sure enough, it was blown. I did previously check the wipers/washer, so I know it worked. Replaced the fuse, and it blew again when I hit the switch. I unplugged the connector at the bottom of the column for what I thought was the wipers, replaced the fuse and to my surprise, the wipers... wiped. I unplugged the wrong connector. So basically no idea why it blew the fuse, but it's working now.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I unplugged the knock sensor harness and poked it with my multimeter. Best I could tell, they weren't reading anything. That points to pinched wires or bad (new) sensors. I may or may not have torqued them correctly either. Either way, it looks like the intake will have to come off, which I wasn't looking forward to since the airbox/tube isn't the easiest thing to remove. So instead I decided to tackle the headers that are touching the engine crossmember first. I pulled the headers back out, and dimpled in the two spots where they were touching. Going back in, it's always that bolt at the back that's hardest to get started. Still, overall, not too bad getting them out and in from the top. Even if the headers weren't what was causing the codes, it's something I still wanted to do.

Tooled around with the background for the radio. It now matches my keychain. May be a bit childish/cartoonish, but oh well.


Went ahead and verified the wiring for the cruise. One part of the diagnostics states to make sure there are no pending codes. So it may just not be working due to the stored codes, or the LED brake lights.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Well, today started off looking like a nice day with a low of 56* and a high of 72*. A perfect day to take Nessie to work since there's still no A/C and might not even have to run the heater.

Took it easy for the first 20 minutes. Turning onto Hwy 6, I goosed it a bit. No big deal, right? That was until we approached the back of the queue at the next light. There was a noise coming from the engine. Turned off the radio and it became a BAD noise. Knocking/ticking loudly. Light turned green, I got some momentum and turned right at the light turning off the ignition. Dash LCD screen was flashing 7psi oil pressure. We coasted into the regional airport and was able to muscle it with no p/s around a corner or two before coming to a stop perfectly in a parking spot.

Sister-in-law was kind enough to pick us on on her way to work and drop us off at ours.



This past Tuesday with a 'freeze' threat, we drove the truck to work. It cranked pretty slowly so yesterday I grabbed a new NAPA battery to change out this weekend.

My dad picked us from work and we began the long trip (due to traffic) to my house to jump into the truck, then to my parents place to grab my trailer, and then back to the airport to load the car. Truck of course now wouldn't start, so I had to swap in the new battery first. Loading the car actually went smoothly, and a worker stopped by and complimented the car. He said they wondered whose car it was and it looked pretty good.





Got to enjoy my LS1/T56 swap for a grand total of 58 miles. I had plans of rebuilding the engine and trans, but definitely not this soon. I'll drain the oil this weekend to see how bad it is. Don't think I'll do much more til I get some money saved. It didn't run long after I heard the knocking and wasn't really zero pressure so hopefully the block and crank survived. I will not put in a 5.3L. It'll be a 5.7L or alum 6.0L.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Sorry, that's a tough blow.

STREETDEMON

Definitely a bummer.

Halffast05

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Well I'm stumped. I didn't touch the car for a week or two out of disappointment. When I did have a free weekend, I pulled the valve covers to see if there was anything obvious. The rockers were fairly tight, so I don't think it's a bent pushrod. Springs all appeared not broken as best I could see. Oil up top looked clean. Spark plugs were undamaged and the engine turned over easily by hand. I looked up how to determine where a knock was coming from, and of course the test is with the car running. I hate the thought of possibly causing more damage to diagnose an issue, but buttoned it all back up anyways.

It started right up, low oil pressure for the first second or so, then stabilized around 40psi. What shocked me was the noise is now gone. What on earth would make such a racket and then fix itself? The only thing I can think of is maybe a lifter collapsed when I rev'd the engine? Would a lifter cause low oil pressure when it collapses?

I've started the car a few mores times with the same thing happening. I've got the gauge cluster displaying the oil pressure during start up. Initial start up it's a second or so before reading 40psi.

Today I removed the oil filter and cut it open. Some dark sludge-ish stuff in the pleats, and 3-4 very small shiny metallic (non-magnetic) bits I found, but not any significant amount (in my opinion) that could indicate it was a bearing. Granted it didn't run long after it started making noise, but still a good 30 seconds.

STREETDEMON

Where are you pulling oil pressure from, behind the intake on top or down by the oil filter housing?

I say send it...drive the holy living hell out of it until it goes!

Maybe it was a stuck lifter...I remember using a lot of CD2 upper valve train lube in old SBCs to cure a "lazy lifter".

I once drove a reman'd BBF 460 for a whole week without oil presure, just wouldn't die.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Oil pressure sender is in the factory location at the top back of the intake.

I think your right just to drive it. Maybe not to the point of blowing it up though. Just don't want it to take out parts that would add think the cost of a rebuild, like oil pan etc.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Have you checked the O ring on the oil pick up tube? Front of the engine, held in by one bolt. I've heard that they can wear and start sucking air in causing a lowered oil pressure.

Billgluckman

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Not yet. If I do end up dropping the pan, I'll replace the oil pump and put on the pickup girdle I have from BRP. ICT makes a nice one too.
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BRP&Product_Code=000-6000-00&Category_Code=CNV4

LS1 rear end. Front has 1.5" adapters I bought from someone on CL, I think they are ezaccessory. *edit to add* 1.5" adapter plus 1le hub (increased offset) plus 5th gen rotor hat thickness, so you can't necessarily just put a 1.5" adapter on a stock 3rd gen brake setup and expect it to work. You'll need 2-2.25"