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When I finally get to those tilt steering bolts my inclination is to use a high strength (you will never get this loose again) type locktite. But before I do that is there any reason this might not be advised? Should I foresee a situation when I will need to get those bolts loose in the future and be cursing my self?
Good to hear you like it!
Its always nice to go back to the previous owner for questions and actually get a response from them!
I’ll keep following along for more updates!
Originally Posted by ResIpsa
I feel like I’m in a better place to answer that question since pulling the distributor. If you have been following the thread you know that I purchased the car with the system already installed. So I was actually a little clueless about set up. And I had zero previous experience with any aftermarket EFI systems.
One thing I learned is that with the system if you want it to control timing you need have either a Fast dual sync distributor or an MSD efi distributor with an adjustable rotor. Or you can use a traditional distributor but the unit will not control timing (and seemingly defeat some of the purpose of having the Fast efi).
You can imagine my confusion when I pulled the distributor and realized it was a traditional distributor. But my system controls timing. Wait… What? How?
After about two weeks of internet research to even figure out the question that I needed to ask I finally reached out to the prior owner (I really consider myself lucky, Not only with getting the car, but having a prior owner who was an former editor for Pontiac high-performance magazine, car craft, hot rod, GMHTP and who is happy to take my questions). He told me that the Pertronics distributor had been “locked out” and the igniter II module had been replaced with a Fast dual sync module effectively turning it into a fast EFI distributor.
that’s when I discovered the concept of “rotor phasing”. Although, the fast EFI distributor (and module) are factory phased at 20°. But I won’t go down that rabbit hole here.
But I do like it and it’s nice to have the ability to adjust timing, idle, and air fuel ratio at the touch of a button.
When I started the reassembly process I noticed a couple ball bearings on the floor of the car. Uh Oh…
it turned out that some of the bearings have fallen out of the inside bearing race. This required pulling off the front part of the steering shaft. This required pulling the shaft as far as possible towards you and then hard to the right until the plastic ball joint holding the unit disassembled.
and for good measure, a couple ball bearings fell out of the front race while I was disassembling everything.
I ended up misplacing a ball bearing. As I sat they’re cursing myself I noticed the plastic socket holder next to my magnetic dish. Guess what? That ball bearing is the same size!
Couple things. The upper steering shaft is keyed so make sure you install it the right side up. Otherwise, your steering wheel will be 180 degrees off center (aka upside down). In hindsight, there’s a little notch on the end of the shaft for which side to put up. But hindsight is not 20/20 and I had to take everything apart to remove the shaft to flip it.
And of course, all the ball bearings fell out again.
As I was figuring that out I noticed another problem. When I removed the steering wheel nut the shaft threads were damaged pretty badly. I’m still not sure if I did this somehow or if it had been done previously. And with the top half of the threads completely damaged it became apparent that getting the U-shaped tool to the press the horn plate was going to be pretty much impossible.
Rather than mess with it anymore I decided to order another one off eBay. ETA is July 26th.
With so much metal gone from the end of the shaft and the amount of damage on the nut (although the nut was the least of my problems because could I always find a replacement) using a tap and die was out of the question.
Couple things. The upper steering shaft is keyed so make sure you install it the right side up. Otherwise, your steering wheel will be 180 degrees off center (aka upside down). In hindsight, there’s a little notch on the end of the shaft for which side to put up. But hindsight is not 20/20 and I had to take everything apart to remove the shaft to flip it.
And of course, all the ball bearings fell out again.
As I was figuring that out I noticed another problem. When I removed the steering wheel nut the shaft threads were damaged pretty badly. I’m still not sure if I did this somehow or if it had been done previously. And with the top half of the threads completely damaged it became apparent that getting the U-shaped tool to the press the horn plate was going to be pretty much impossible.
Rather than mess with it anymore I decided to order another one off eBay. ETA is July 26th.
With so much metal gone from the end of the shaft and the amount of damage on the nut (although the nut was the least of my problems because could I always find a replacement) using a tap and die was out of the question.
I have a parts column out of my 90 if you need it! mine was easier to swap than fix all the dumb sheet a previous owner did trying drill lock cylinder and all. I did happen to find fresh meat at pick n pull that column was good and was only $45 without air bag (it turned into a ordeal like yours just for cruise control)
here’s a close-up for the process of attaching the upper steering shaft ball joint. However, if you look at the last picture you may be wondering how is it possible to get the column lock plate and column cover over that shaft. The answer is you can’t.
everything Hass to be done at once. That means The lock plate, column plate, little metal key switch, upper steering shaft, and ball bearings all need to be inserted as a single unit.
So I am torn on this...If I never have to do this job again that will be too soon.
However, the effect that this repair has had on the feel of the steering is profound. Literally night and day.
In comparison, the strut tower brace and Astro steering shaft had no discernable effect on the steering feel of the car.
In my case I had to go in and tighten the bolts because it was was getting dangerous. But knowing what I know now I would have done this last year.
I have seen these when I worked in shops that got so loose you could wiggle the column around and it would shut ignition off - imagine that on a busy highway at speed
yes can get to be safety issue when I ever started noticing it I have always done mine early so to speak - so do you need the shaft or are you done?
Mine had gotten really bad. In fact the video I posted was from the morning on my way to work and it had gotten markedly worse on my drive home.
I am good and don't need the shaft. Although pm me with what you would want for the LT1 bellhousing. I am going to try and take a look at the repair and see if the crack has reformed. I am looking at some of the low price phone endoscopes on Amazon to peek up in there.
ResIpsa,
Forgive what may be a stupid question, (and yes there really are stupid questions) but which were the tilt steering fasteners that needed tightening? I really enjoyed your trip up and down the summit. Thanks
Last edited by stuartswede; Jul 25, 2021 at 07:35 PM.
ResIpsa,
Forgive what may be a stupid question, (and yes there really are stupid questions) but which were the tilt steering fasteners that needed tightening? I really enjoyed your trip up and down the summit. Thanks
Just a quick heads up to everybody. Because my Excursion suffered a minor catastrophe in late December (just maybe the transfer case and drive shaft decided to detach while on the highway) the Formula has been pulling daily duty all winter. But she has done me proud starting right up on the coldest of Northern Virginia mornings (nothing compared to what some of you experience up north) and proving that she is not above a little rain and residual road salt!
Just a quick heads up to everybody. Because my Excursion suffered a minor catastrophe in late December (just maybe the transfer case and drive shaft decided to detach while on the highway) the Formula has been pulling daily duty all winter. But she has done me proud starting right up on the coldest of Northern Virginia mornings (nothing compared to what some of you experience up north) and proving that she is not above a little rain and residual road salt!
Always nice to have a stylish backup, hope the Excursion isn't out for "Too long"!
It has been a while since I checked in so I thought I would post.
Lethal Weapon has been running great and is still sharing double duty with the Excursion. She is a little worse for wear in the paint but at least it’s from being used as God intended.
I needed some rear tires so I took the opportunity to clean up the wheels and add some seriously sticky rubber. And when I discovered that R888R’s were available in 16’s I could not resist.
It has been a while since I checked in so I thought I would post.
Lethal Weapon has been running great and is still sharing double duty with the Excursion. She is a little worse for wear in the paint but at least it’s from being used as God intended.
I needed some rear tires so I took the opportunity to clean up the wheels and add some seriously sticky rubber. And when I discovered that R888R’s were available in 16’s I could not resist.
well ? we're waiting! (Ted Knight from Caddyshack)
