Tighten up compression setting on the shocks.

 

Absolutely, shock setting are definitely on my list. And the QA1 shocks adjustable from pillow soft to rock hard.

however I always try to use a shocks as a final tuning tool. As you probably know, nothing can destroy the ride quality then really tight compression settings.

 

New bump stops installed.

Also, after installing the bump stops I realized that my sway-bar angle had gone wonky from lowering the ride height. I must have searched for two days on the interwebs for adjustable end links for our cars. But nothing...

Then it hit me. No one sells them because adjustments are made by changing the size of the spacer...

 

Pesky gremlin reared it’s ugly head again.

Here are the symptoms. All gauge cluster lights stopped working. The headlight warning buzzer stopped working. The light on the radio works until the headlight/foglight switch is turned on.

A search on this forum has led me to this. Do you think this should fix the problem, and do you have any idea where it’s located?

 

Yay! Gauge lights work again!

For anyone interested, the part is called (at least on Rock Auto) an instrument panel dimmer switch and it is located under the dash next to the OBD port.

 

For $hits and giggles I wanted to see if my track wheels would fit on Lethal Weapon. I am not sure 🤔 if teal is a good look?

Oh yeah, and my new personalized plate in anticipation of the April Radwood in Pennsylvania.

 

The issue with the torque arm is that you'll find that the car tends to unload the back wheels under braking. Shorten the torque arm and it will hook better on accelleration, but will further the braking issue. You'll see all the AI guys running stock brakes and pads in the rear because of this. Aftermarket pads tend to just lock the back wheels up. I had a buddy waste money on 4 corner Wilwoods only to put the stock brakes back on the rear. Check out this setup.
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

What setup are you running for LCA's? I used to run poly bushings and they would load up and cause horrible snap oversteer. They don't allow the rear axle to rotate. Switched to spherical joints and it was a night and day difference with the expense of NVH.

 

I used UMI's Roto-joint/poly version for that very reason on the rear control arms and panhard bar.
https://www.umiperformance.com/home/...t-combination/
What is "NVH"?

 

Noise, Vibration, Harshness.

 

That's why I went with the poly on one end and roto joint on the other.

 

As I don't have much familiarity with solid axle set ups can further explain what you mean by "unload the back wheels". Do you mean lift?

 

I'm Learning here too, how much worse was NVH?

 

What am I doing with my time…

 

So bodywork is tedious, even on a 1/24 scale...

 

what 1/24 model kit are you using?

 

The main problem I’m having is the model is molded in red plastic. Every time I try to paint it white, even after priming it, the red bleeds through.

 

I used to do models when I was a kid hated the way paint worked and didnt look good - then found 1/8 scale die cast - never went back
FWIW I still have a 1/8 scale 85 Vette new in box that I never wanted to assemble

 

I was about to finally get around to installing my SLP runners. Then I noticed that each of my currently installed runners had a bolt head snapped off and shelved that idea...

A couple days later it hit me that those "snapped bolt heads" are actually bolts that install from the inside out. Doh!

 

I had been so busy before all this corona-virus crap I never got around to responding to your post. I actually never had a problem with the rears locking up. When I put it into the wall it was 100% my fronts that locked (as proven by the flat spots I burnt into the front tires).

The issue I have been chasing started when I lowered the car and started constantly hitting my bump stops. Because I drive the car on the street I have been trying to find a spring rate that is the best compromise of comfortable ride and staying off the bump stops. My initial spring rate was 130 lbs and was way too soft. I swapped in 170 lbs but they were not much better.

For my next attempt I installed a set of progressive sprigs rated at 130 lbs/250 lbs (for anyone not familiar, these are springs wound with different spacing top and bottom to create what is in effect two different spring rates in a single spring). However, because there is so little suspension travel on my car I was never really getting out of the 130 lbs coils before hitting the bump stops. So out came the angle grinder and I cut off about 1 1/4 of a coil of the 130 lbs section. Installation in the coil-over required flipping the adjusting rings and inserting a ramped spring isolater so the spring would seat properly.

And what I can say now is that I am pretty damn close to having it exactly where I want it.

 

Went on a Sunday cruise with a 280Z and a Porsche Gayman. Damn...sorry about that. That’s auto spell I apologize Cayman

 

better have kept 6 feet between yas. I envy your weather down there. Sweeper went through today and knocked rest of the salt off the roads. Callin for possible snow tomorrow now.

 

Finally time to take care of that one wheel spin!

 

whats up? so the posi in your car was whipped? you will like this Torsen type the original Auburn types suck IMO

 

Yeah, you might say it was long past its operational usefulness.

 

So... I am a complete idiot who can’t count. I have a 9 bolt not a 10 bolt... So it looks like my options have been drastically reduced.

Need to return the Eaton. Brand new rebuild kit for sale in the classified section.

 

Maybe time to upgrade the whole thing then? 9 bolts seem descent other than lack of parts

 

Do any of you guys have experience with the torque Lock TLVL used in the Holden Commodore?

It seems some on this forum say it can work.

 

No problem, I haven't been on here very often myself. I actually just received the struts and springs for mine from Ground Control last week. I'm going to try some stiff-ish springs myself. I know they are going to be harsh on the street, but I don't drive the car often anyway. I went with 950 front, 205 rears. I know the AI guys are running way stiffer but they're jarring on the street. I'm surprised you didn't encounter any rear wheel lockup. I've had them lock on the stock setup with a couple panic stops on the street. I'll be interested to see what you settle with, I've been around a few track days but I know just enough to be dangerous, am pretty new to it myself and will be trying to dial mine in as well.

 

I think I'll do a little update to act as a shameless bump. I ordered the Torque Lock VL torsen differential used for the Holden Commodore in Australia (turns out the nine bolt is hugely popular in Australia and parts are plentiful). Shipping has been taking forever.

In the meantime I've been playing around with the vinyl cutter my wife purchased.



The character spacing needs to be tightened up a little and the outline needs to be slightly thicker IMHO...

 

It's not a "bump" if you are actually adding some legitimate information, which you have.... I like that decal. Is that the vinyl cutter they sell at Walmart?
DR.K.

 

It is a Cricut Air 2, it is a pretty neat unit but the biggest downsize is it can only handle graphics about the size of a standard legal pad. Anything longer would have to be pieced together.

but it did make this!

 

I was pretty excited when I purchased my set of SLP runners nearly a year ago. But I will admit that after doing more research I was starting to feel a little buyers remorse.

I think I’ve come to realize that the answer to every better flowing TPI question is pretty simple. Buy a First TPI.

i’ve already poured countless hours (and spent untold dollars in burrs, grinding stones, flap wheels, etc...) in porting the runners. But up to this point I haven’t pulled the trigger to do the install. Well, with my car on jack stands awaiting a differential to arrive from Australia I decided the time was right. Looks like there’s going to be more porting to do…

 

Porting is a grind... pun fully intended.

 

Looks like you are making good progress.

Keep chipping away at it!

 

I have declared the porting good enough for government work and started the install. This is one of those jobs that if I ever had to do again I could finish in about a quarter of the time. There are so many little tips and tricks to getting these things to fit. I know that most of these tips are somewhere on this forum but it would be nice if there was one definitive thread.

For example, when I went to install the driver side SLP runner it appeared there was no way in hell I was going to fit. Because of the size of the bolt heads on the base manifold it just seemed physically impossible for those to fit.

after cursing and spending a couple minutes looking at the problem I decided to loosen the fuel rails (in hindsight the SLP installation instructions would have provided me this information). But even with the bolts loose the amount of actual additional movement of the fuel rail seemed almost imperceptible.

but I thought the hell with it, and tried again to install the runners. And like magic they popped right in! Ok...

So I pressed on. Then my gasket ripped...

 

 

Pretty...big vacuum leak😩

 

Do you think it ripped another gasket on installation?

 

Not sure. But she is idling at about 4000 RPM.

I called it a day last night. Today I’m gonna go back and re-tighten everything I think there are a couple bolts that might be an issue.

 

OK. I noticed a couple loose bolts. Specifically, my motor uses a stud to hold the alternator bracket which doubles as the intake bolt.

and it turns out that the nut on the stud was not seating. At least my car now idles at 2500 RPM. This will make it easier to start checking for vacuum leaks with some starting fluid.

as I’m sure you can imagine, a 383 with long tube headers idling at 4000 RPM in my garage directly below the living room did not make the wife very happy.

 

OK, I blame you guys for this. I know I have a lot of views on this thread but I’m fairly new here. And the fact that I purchased SLP runners should’ve told you that I know nothing about SLP runners.

Someone could’ve chimed up and said you know that the design changed for later models with 9 th injector. And that you may need to block off the driver side ports.




In actuality, I had already blocked off the lower runner port. I just never thought about where the other side of that tube went...

so what is the preferred method of blocking off those ports?

 

Yes, that would make a difference!

Sorry I couldn't give you a heads-up on that....I'm a TBI guy.

 

 

The LSD I ordered from Australia finally arrived!




what did you think I was talking about?

 

don't matter it looks good

 

Wow, that was a pain in the butt. I must’ve taken that intake apart 20 times. Forgot how many sets the gaskets (both purchased and homemade) I went through. Half the battle was learning what not to do. Maybe I’ll make a separate thread on SLP runner installation to try and consolidate everything I learned in one place.

One little tip like placing a hand written sign on my windshield with the words “don’t forget to hook up the rear Plenum electrical connector!” Would’ve save me hours.

But she’s finally sealed up.

 

I think you will like Torsen diff in the 9 bolt no more cones! I have them in my 87 T/A and 05 Silverado also have one set back for my 69 Bird. Man you are getting this done!

 

What model diff is this and would it work in an 85 Trans Am 9 bolt?

 

it’s made by a company called torque lock from Australia. The particular model is the torque lock TLVL. It should fit any borg Warner nine bolt. And it’s cheap. Around 500 bucks.

I ordered mine from a company off eBay. Big mistake. It took more than a month to get. Use the company everyone else does called (and the spelling is correct) Supa F Spares in Australia.

 

thanks. I finally got the diff installed today. Hope to get the car off the jacks and back on the road tomorrow. It’s been off the road more than a month and killing me.