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On the passenger side bezel I tried a different method and was able to get good clearance with only sanding and grinding the shroud (you still will need to cut and level the lip).
OK, spoiler is here. Looks like this is going to be an involved process. Thought for a second about fabricating a way to include the third brake light but quickly shelved that idea.
Hawks is closed for the night so I will have to call tomorrow. Have one question about the factory mounting tabs and directions are not 100% clear. It appears that I need to remove the factory tabs? Any thoughts?
Hey Hawks, you may want to clarify your instructions a little bit about the factory spot welded tabs.
When I got the wing It seemed like it was going to be impossible to make it fit. And your instructions are a little bit “vague”. I think the confusion comes when you say remove factory clips if that means the plastic parts that inserted into the spoiler or the actual metal tabs.
Well I went ahead and took a Dremel tool and removed the factory metal tabs. And now a apparently poor fitting wing fits almost perfect!.
You may try moving it back to see if you can get the tips more even , course its like having 2 restored wheels on one side and not the other - who'll notice?
The passenger side tip is skewed up a little bit (or maybe the drivers side is skewed down...I still need to do a little more fitting).
Although, as it sitting now the passenger side tip can be gently flexed down to meet the window and it should be flush when I put the clip in.
Although, you have no idea how relieved I was test fitting it after cutting those clips off. Trying to fit it before I thought there was no way in hell that spoiler would ever look right.
I have been experimenting with trying to get the front wheel spacing just right. I think this is a tad too much and I am getting some rubbing. Although I could dial in a little camber.
Again, sounds super mean. You are just plugging away at this car.
Front rotors (because my hubs were shot) and more aggressive rear pads (trying to shift the bias a little rear) go on today.
Having a racer buddy of mine teaching me how to align it tomorrow. I am hoping to finally get some negative camber in the front of the car (probably +/- -1.5 degrees).
I am still getting quotes on getting the bumpers painted. Although every shop seems to have an aversion to filling the holes in the trunk.
As I mentioned in my last post, all the places I have got estimates for painting seem to be really concerned about filling the holes in the trunk. The only proper way to do it is to weld them and that leaves the potential for warping the metal.
Currently, my trunk has three approximately 1/2 inch holes for the brake light and two 1/4 inch holes for the old spoiler mounting bolts.
So I find myself in an operational pause on the bodywork. I have a Mig welder and I am decent but I’m a little hesitant to try and fill the holes myself without any practice on similar sheet metal.
Then on Monday I decided to take a look on craigslist and found this just literally 8 miles from my office.
30 bucks later it was loaded into my Excursion. This was from a base Firebird and it has four really small holes that should be very easy to weld up. So now what are my plans? AmI going to just replace the hatch? Am I going to swap just the sheet metal piece? Am I going to just try and fill the holes on the current trunk?
I am actually not sure right now but at least I have a spare...
Good find on the hatch and I will be watching along when you install it I am very interested where the factory installed sealer from glass to hatch when my bodyman did my 87 with the 91-92 trunk and spoiler its leaked ever since so since it needs to come off - actually I'll be swapping from my 87- to my 90 and 90 to 87 I will have to buy another spoiler for my 87.
I was thinking about you couple weeks ago when I was at Pick N Pull they had a 91 and thought about pulling the lights for you but someone grabbed the motors and the fog lights I was after (they were there 24 hrs earlier when I was in area w/o tools so I stopped by to see what was left) did get few items like kick panels and the park lights. Anyway please post up the trunk sealer when you take it apart for me please, I had searched and searched here and got nuthin
Good find on the hatch and I will be watching along when you install it I am very interested where the factory installed sealer from glass to hatch when my bodyman did my 87 with the 91-92 trunk and spoiler its leaked ever since so since it needs to come off - actually I'll be swapping from my 87- to my 90 and 90 to 87 I will have to buy another spoiler for my 87.
I was thinking about you couple weeks ago when I was at Pick N Pull they had a 91 and thought about pulling the lights for you but someone grabbed the motors and the fog lights I was after (they were there 24 hrs earlier when I was in area w/o tools so I stopped by to see what was left) did get few items like kick panels and the park lights. Anyway please post up the trunk sealer when you take it apart for me please, I had searched and searched here and got nuthin
Funny, I was looking at the sealer yesterday and trying to figure out what I should use as a replacement. My initial thought was to use a high end window glass adhesive that I discovered when replacing a driver window in my old Civic (it turns out Honda Civic windows are actually held in place with glue). That stuff held tight after 3 other two part epoxies failed after a couple days.
However, my current game plan is to just pull out the welder and try to fill the holes on my current hatch.
I'm planning using some 3M dum dum that wont harden.
Thinking back about the headlight bezel mods you did I cant see why GM didnt cut that corner too - whole new mechanisms and bulbs and bezels for a 2 year run? what was GM thinking!
If anyone has are used a mig welder before you know that besides cleanliness machine set up is the most important factor for getting a good weld.
It’s a fine balance between voltage, wire speed, and duration of weld. To further complicate things these variables change as you weld. As the metal heats up it affectively increases the voltage into the weld.
My welder is a little 140 that runs a standard household voltage. The good thing is that on most welds I can just crank the power to 10 and fire away.
However, on sheet metal not so much. Too much power or too long and I’ll simply blow hole in the metal. Two little power or too much wire speed and I’ll build an ugly pile of metal that needs extensive grinding and has no structural integrity.
The trick is doing test welds until you get the settings perfect. And to reduce variables further Test on the same piece you will be welding on. In this case it means using a Dremel tool to purposely cut slits into the underside of the hatch and practice welding on that. I am also using the holes I cut for the new spoiler bolts for testing.
and then, even when you get the Settings perfect. If you weld too fast you’ll put too much heat in the metal. That creates warps which will require additional bodywork to correct.
Too much! I know it’s ugly… But better here on the underside. I would be in tears if I did that to the exterior of the hatch. And I will go back and do a little grinding to clean things up. Getting closer...
I am nowhere near there yet, but once I feel comfortable with the settings I’ll transplant some metal from the new hatch I Purchased and make some blanks to weld into the holes on the trunk.
One thing that has been helpful is that I have access to the bottom of the hole. That means I can start by tack welding the backside first. Then I can go back over the top.
Of course the voltage that would blow holes in my test runs barely seems to penetrate on my final welds. That’s why my top welds are so ropey (but better to err on the side less heat). Then it’s the trusty angle grinder with a flap wheel for finishing.
She will be going to the paint shop on Monday! And don’t worry, that oversize decal on the hood will be coming off (replaced with proper sized “6.3 LITER H.O.” decals in outline font as close to the original as I could find).
Always that that was a good idea for a 383 or LSx swap in a formula. To use stock style font decals on the hood and doors with the cubes will look cool. Will be one of those second look things.
Always that that was a good idea for a 383 or LSx swap in a formula. To use stock style font decals on the hood and doors with the cubes will look cool. Will be one of those second look things.
I thought about doing the FORMULA 383 decals on the doors but I am torn. First issue is that I have not found a font that truly matches the Pontiac font. So my options would be finding a similar font and doing the whole decal or just replacing the 383. I think the first option would be too obvious (unlike the small 1/2 inch hood decals) and look clumsy/cheap because of the size of the decal. The second option of just replacing the 383 has the same problems with the addition of trying to match the factory decal color.
Then there is the historical issue...
This brings me to the question (some would call it a trick question) I love to ask so called classic car experts.
What was the last year Pontiac created a Formula 350?
Of course the answer is 1990 (no need to explain the rational on this forum).
So regardless of what engine is in my car it is still rolled off the factory floor as a Formula 350. Right?
Also, Punzak. Assuming I don't screw up twice installing my hood decals I will have 2 extras that are yours if you want them?
I would think that a local sign/graphic shop could match the old style font pretty easily if thats something you’d want to do. Would just have to make sure that they can make an application for the exterior of a car.
I could see keeping the 350 badges because that’s what it was and if you were trying to completely stock look wise. The 383 would be almost like a restmod look. Same font, different engine.
Thanks for the offer! I’ll have to see if you have them in awhile. My build is slow going still. I told the shop to take their time because I wasnt in a rush and I think they took advantage of that. As of a few weeks ago he was supposably putting a parts list together for the bottom end. I also haven’t called because again, im really not in a rush.
If you’re not familiar , in amateur racing circles grassroots motorsports magazine is our Bible. I was a little surprised, but happy, to see this months cover!
