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Honestly with this being your high school car, id restore it to how you remember it in highschool
Eric's car is as stock as they come nowadays. Other than maybe the oil, it seems as if it is already the way he had it back in high school, which is why he contemplated getting rid of it in the first place, I'm sure. The upgrades he is making now are tasteful, however they are not permanent, it will not devalue the car in anyway, and the car can be put back to stock at any time. Hell, the upgrades will increase its' value, if anything, But then again, why would anyone want stock? Yearbooks and reunions are for high school memories, we don't need to relive them every single time we go for a ride. Only people who peaked in High School live like that, longing for yesteryear, kinda like Al Bundy, talking about his High School football days over and over again. Third gens are not meant for that. They're meant for individual expression and enjoyment...
Honestly with this being your high school car, id restore it...
Hi Blackbetty, and thanks for taking interest in my IROC. Street Lethal could not have described the state of my car any better than I, and thank you Rob for the kind words. I titled this thread as 'What to do with my 85 IROC?' to not only question keeping ownership, but ask the experts here what to do with it? Many have gone extreme with their builds, many have stayed original, and so on...and wanted to learn from others past/present builds. I have decided to keep the spirit alive, and build/restore what needs to be repaired/freshened up (which is not much other than basic maintenance with some interior and minor performance upgrades). The car is in great running order already, and is only going to get better the more I touch things. I'll post a video so you all can hear it growl.
And thank you again Rob for the kind words and your help...were gonna need bigger tires.
Last edited by 1985_IROC; May 4, 2021 at 10:03 AM.
Need some advice on installing new rear shocks. New ones came with smaller rubber washers compared to what is in the car. Should I reuse the originals?
New ones. What’s in the car now, fatter and wider.
You are just looking to isolate the metal to metal contact, I would say that the new smaller diameter ones would be fine, probably in better shape than the old dried out ones. IMHO
You are just looking to isolate the metal to metal contact, I would say that the new smaller diameter ones would be fine, probably in better shape than the old dried out ones. IMHO
Thanks @stuartswede this is my thinking too, but was hesitant if the wider ones did add some more stability. 🤷🏻♂️
I just looked up a few other rear shocks and most of them are the smaller sized, only the original Bilstein’s show this larger one.
Ask your boys to chime in over here 😁
Last edited by 1985_IROC; May 15, 2021 at 07:45 PM.
Rear shocks are in 😃 New vs. Original (Originals were pretty soft pushing them down by hand). Squashed them best I could without compromising the instructions below. (13 ft lbs was not achieved). Hard to use torque wrench without turning it. Picture instructions (so should be good).
Took a test drive with just the new rear shocks, think I just feel in love with the car again.
Amazing, feels so good and thought I may have a harder ride, but nope...feels so tight and smooth.
Can’t wait to get the struts in, will have them done at shop. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lb. Calls for 195 ft lb. I have no idea what my 20V Dewalt Impact gun does, settings are 1, 2, & 3. Maybe just blast it on #3 till it can’t go no more?
Last edited by 1985_IROC; May 16, 2021 at 09:12 PM.
Yes, the speedometer cable is pretty fresh, and well lubricated. I do have headers, thought it’s far enough not to be an issue, but will see if it can be moved or covered with some sort of heat shielding.
Got about an inch from that back header. Maybe wrap it with some fuel hose?
Okay, passenger side strut installed, have to finish up tomorrow since the pads are a bit warped on the back and the retention clip that goes into the piston won’t stay on.
Dewalt 1/2” impact ripped off those bolts 👍🏼 Hard to believe many mechanics said ‘no issues’ with your suspension. Original piston rod shaft doesn’t even return. Gonna enjoy a functional strut. 195 ft lbs is no joke to achieve.
Last edited by 1985_IROC; May 17, 2021 at 09:10 PM.
Okay, passenger side stet installed, have to finish up tomorrow since the pads are a bit warped on the back and the retention clip that goes into the piston won’t stay on.
Dewalt 1/2” impact ripped off those bolts 👍🏼 Hard to believe many mechanics said ‘no issues’ with your suspension. Original piston rod shaft doesn’t even return. Gonna enjoy a functional strut.
I remember setting the torque wrench to 125 ft. lbs for a Buick V6 harmonic balancer. Indeed, it is absolutely no joke to achieve. Was waiting to hear "snap" as I turned on hulk smash mode, cuz either the bolt or one of my joints felt like they were going to give lol...
Yeah man, had to lower the torque wrench to make sure it was working and wanted to know where I was at. Hit it with the impact to tighten little by little and check with torque wrench. Very nice that automotive parts stores loan tools these days. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs, loaner goes to 250 ft lbs. 👍🏼
I was starting to think I had to stand on that torque wrench, I used the loaner on one side and my torque wrench on the nut. Trying to get the leverage.
I was just looking at my picture again, and noticed the adjustable wrench I was using. It has always been one of my favorites, belonged to my grandfather. Just looked it up on the internet. Guess they just don’t make things like they used to. Thanks granddad!
Plomb 712 "Plombaloy" 12 Inch Adjustable Wrench, with Insets for Side View and Reverse Detail, 1946.
Fig. shows a Plomb 712 12 inch adjustable wrench with a broached hanging hole, marked with "Mfd. in U.S.A." and the PLVMB logo forged into the front, with "Forged Plombaloy Steel" forged into the reverse.
The shank also has a forged-in code "A-12-6" visible at the right, near the broached hole.
The overall length is 12.2 inches, and the finish is plain steel.
The "6" year digit in the Danielson forged-in code indicates production in 1946.
Last edited by 1985_IROC; May 18, 2021 at 09:30 AM.
Good luck with the alignment, I couldn't make heads or tails with the final output on mine but they used a top-of-the-line newer Hunter machine with lasers on each wheel. Drives like a race car now
Those front struts look dead, so your rear Bilsteins were soft compared to the Koni's? I see they are extended...
Those front struts look dead, so your rear Bilsteins were soft compared to the Koni's? I see they are extended...
Yeah, the rear Bilstein's were very soft compared to the Koni's, my son (age 8) pushed them down and they came up very slooow. Fronts were dead.
I went with the Koni 'on-car' adjustable (4th gen so they say) 8241-1140 Sport, I wanted to make adjustments easy on myself if/when needed.
Maybe it is just how I took the picture that they look extended because they fit fine and feel great.
I'll take a look at your page again for the alignment specs you did.
Last edited by 1985_IROC; May 24, 2021 at 11:20 AM.
Cool glad you like them, yeah I'm a Bilstein fan and hear awesome stuff about Koni for these cars too. You got me thinking about condition of my rear shocks too.
I’m installing rear springs, Moog CC635, want to see if this improves the ride or not. Assume that ‘indexing the coil’ means putting the end of the top coil properly on the insulator and this allows to seat evenly on the body of the car, correct?
Index in these cars is in the lower control arm. The end of the spring at the top is inconsequential, some people don't even run the isolator so they get more drop
Slapped the rear springs in yesterday (CC635), first impressions; ride height did rise about 1/2 inch (not a big deal), feels a bit more responsive and has reduced many harsh knocks/vibrations within the vehicle. Not sure if the responsiveness can be equated to a 'loose' feel, so I tightened up the front Koni dampers to see if this helps. With the original springs I felt a little more planted, but felt every imperfection of the road that carried throughout the vehicle. As for now, I will continue to ride on them and play with the damper settings a bit to see if I can dial in the suspension. Other than this, I think for NJ roads these will benefit the ride...
After alignment, was advised to replace my inner/outer tie-rods. Got them done along with new relay rod (hopefully I installed this correctly). Also had to have both wheels balanced. Starting to feel really good 😊
Cool, what was the rationale for replacing your rear springs? Did you replace the front ones too?
It started in my mind knowing that when I had the family in the car (even times without) the rear would bottom out hitting the bump stops. While shopping for the shocks/struts I spoke with Koni tech support, advised him of this, and they said this was a coil issue and shocks would not resolve. So that sat with me.
After the shocks/struts replacement, the car road much better, but still had a very harsh ride. I'm on another thread where a few members reported that these rear springs made a big difference. So for $50 and an afternoon I figured let me find out for myself.
As mentioned, I believe they do bring more benefits than the originals. Will drive with them for a while and continue to feel what the car is telling me. Will also adjust the Koni settings to see what feels best as well.
As far as the front springs, I cannot decide on the companion coils. Everyone says they are the 5662s, but there is another coil Moog 5276 (ACDELCO 45H0088) that comes up for my car specifically (IROC, w/AC, w/Auto.)
Looks like these are priced good right now at $50, but this job is much bigger and scarier than the rears. So no I have not done the front coils.
Any suggestions/inputs are welcome.
Last edited by 1985_IROC; May 30, 2021 at 11:15 AM.
Interesting I'm sitting on a box of new/old H&R sport springs that came with the car. The previous owner never installed them I wonder how harsh these springs would be?
Suspension is on the agenda at some point for my 85 too...
Have you done any other of the front or rear bushings like the control arms?
Have you done any other of the front or rear bushings like the control arms?
I have not done any bushings, most of them have been looked at by myself and a good mechanic that has been very good so far. None seem to show any real need to be replaced.
I'm nearing the completion of suspension repairs. One thing noted by mechanic during alignment, he suggests that the steering gear needs replacement. I have read not to get rid of the original, but which steering gear is correct to get? I will hold onto mine, and will not return for core.
Fixed the bezel on the passenger side door lock cylinder, and while I had the door apart...I put some KILMAT on, and sprayed interior of the lower part of the door with rubberized undercoating by Rust-Oleum. One biggest rattle came from the mirror (the motor), took that apart and put some 3M window-weld round rubber sealer (Butyl Rubber) on the mounting points. Took it for a drive, REALLY happy with how quiet it is. Don't hear any vibration. Sorry didn't take any pictures :-(
For now I've decided to continue with restoring my ride to OEM best I can. Just ordered the rear disk brake lines from SSTUBES, since the last mechanic broke the one hard line (https://https://www.sstubes.com/collections/...products/11765). Long story short, after I had to take it out of my parents garage, I sent it to a mechanic that was referred to me to give it a look over and repair for safe driving. Well unfortunately BIG mistake on my part, to say the least, got the car out of there before anymore shotty work could be performed. All good now, and as they say, "if you want something done right...you have to do it yourself."
Rob @@Street Lethal let me know when you guys are meeting up...
BOY! I heard that, I have gone through three paint jobs and one complete frame off restoration, ALL were problematic. Especially the last one. I had my wife's all original AZ 1977 Trans AM redone thought I was using trustworthy people, wow what a struggle for 4 years and nearly 40K in work for a rust free car. THEN to add insult to injury, I had to fix a bunch of screw-ups! Sad man. SO NOW, I am doing an LS swap drive-line / paint job on my 83 Z28 and guess who is doing virtually ALL the work yep, ME. I have realized you do the tear-down, send any specific "jobs" to specific 3rd parties with agreements on exactly what they are doing / price and ONLY what they are doing. Then pick up said portions check for satisfaction then put the car back together correctly, including ALL the details. Sorry, I will get off my soapbox now. Love your car, and man I wouldn't change it, just refresh the stock items and enjoy it. Car looks impeccable.
Unfortunately it hasn't. I live in the frozen wasteland of MI. My pole-barn is not heated, and everything came to a stop, God I hate winter. So I am whittling on the last few things as I can when we hit a day above freezing.
So looking forward to spring!
