Ordered heads and studs yesterday, Today, I hope I bought enough AN fittings to complete my fuel system.



EAR-581805ERL Fitting, Tube Nut, -5 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair $3.25 1 $3.25

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EAR-581806ERL Fitting, Tube Nut, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair $1.95 1 $1.95

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EAR-581905ERL Fitting, Adapter, Tube Sleeve -5 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair $1.75 1 $1.75

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EAR-581906ERL Fitting, Tube Sleeve, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair $1.75 1 $1.75

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EAR-809106ERL Fitting, Hose End, Swivel Seal, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each $16.95 1 $16.95

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EAR-809106ERL Fitting, Hose End, Swivel Seal, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each $16.95 1 $16.95

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EAR-961666ERL Fitting, Straight, -6 AN Male to 3/8 in. NPT Male, Steel, Zinc, Each $4.39 1 $4.39

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EAR-961666ERL Fitting, Straight, -6 AN Male to 3/8 in. NPT Male, Steel, Zinc, Each $4.39 1 $4.39

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EAR-991907ERL Fitting, Union Reducer, Male -6 AN to Male -5 AN, Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each $6.39 1 $6.39

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EAR-991912ERL Fitting, Union Reducer, Male -8 AN to Male -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each $5.25 1 $5.25

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EAR-991912ERL Fitting, Union Reducer, Male -8 AN to Male -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each $5.25 1 $5.25

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MAA-4305M Fuel Pressure Regulator, Black Anodized, 30-100 psi, Universal, Each $99.95 1 $99.95

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SUM-900311 Flare Tool, Single, 37 Degree Flare, Tube Sizes 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2 in., Kit

 

most interesting thread of the year

 

Don't be jealous. Your end is inevitably getting closer.

 

who's jelous, i know, im gettin sccarrred, that blown stroked FI motor of yours is shittin on my lil ol 4150 carbed small block on nuts. I'd be crazy to bet aaginst you, but you know what, i like the 1 in a million odds

 

Your advantage is suspension. I will just spin my tires everywhere, and probably into a wall.

 

um stock suspension, 10" tire...what advantage were you talking about?

might have me confused with your tubular front end and coil overs

 

So you are running aluminum 6AN (3/8") lines?

How is that any better than stock?

 

I am just cutting my stock lines and flaring them for AN fittings and then running the new line up to my fuel pressure regulator and whatnot.

 

Oh. So what fuel pump setup are you running? How are you going to configure your fuel rails and fuel pressure regulator?

 

I am running a stock style fuel pump, a 155gph however. I am running a 6AN fuel line up to my fuel pressure regulator, and from there is a return port under the regulator that runs back to the tank, and the sides fo the regulator each have a -6an line running to each fuel rail. the fuel rails do not have a return to the regulator.
make sense?

 

That sounds restrictive, at least the way I am imagining it.

Do you mean 155lph on the pump?

Here's what I would do if I were building a high horsepower supercharged engine...

Single large fuel line to Y-block with individual line to each fuel rail
Then a Y-block to regulator or two lines into regulator
Then return line to tank.

This way the fuel rails are in parallel and have full fuel volume at all times. If you look at a lot of high HP turbocharged or supercharged LT1s or Mustangs with a return fuel system, that is how they're set up.
----------
Fuel feed, into a Y, then single line to each rail:



Then the other ends of the rails into a regulator, and then back to the tank. In this pic you are seeing the regulator and the return line.



Just an idea. This is on Jordon Musser's old turbo LT1 car.. just all I could find in a pinch.

 

I did mean 155LPH, my bad.
How come mine looks restrictive? Both my fuel rails will be full at all times and excess pressure is just returned back to the tank from the regulator before it even reaches the engine.

In other words, I got my steel stock lines flared to accept AN fittings. look.

 

so you're using one -6 sized feed line from the tank to the radiator to fuel your motor correct?

 

radiator? what?

 

All I'm saying is that is the same as the stock configuration, so you aren't gaining anything by doing all of that... so I was just wondering what you were expecting this setup to do that your stock lines already wouldn't. Also a single 155lph pump alone will not be able to keep up with a supercharged small block. With that said, if you use dual pumps in parallel or an in-tank with a booster pump, stock sized lines are sufficient.

 

The main reason I am doing this was for a cleaner look having the lines cut back by the firewall instead of adapting up front of the engine bay. having the return line at the regulator instead of passing through the engine first lets cooler fuel return back to the engine. And you know what? I lied, its a 255lph. I had to go look. It's whatever the biggest pump you can buy that fits in the stock location in the tank. It is a walbro, bbk model.
is a 255lph sufficient?
Edit: I guess not, looks like recommended hp level is 550hp..
Oh well.. Just something else to upgrade soon, I can still get the car running at a lower psi level I suppose.

 

First, I told you so
Aeromotive makes a bitchin' pump that can be in tank, but that would probably be expensive. I might have an alternative. I used to run an accel pump rated to 725 horsepower forced intuction (p/n 74702) with bracket and a -8 billet filter with a replaceable element. It is loud as hell, but I have a stock cam l98 with quiet exhaust. Sorry I forgot to mention it while I was talking to you. One million dollars shipped, price negociable.

 

i ment regulator

 

Should've went with Racetronix Trav.

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-FL98-FPKG-2.html

I'm using their high pressure Walbro 255lph, but you can buy the Performance kit that includes a booster to run in conjunction with an MSD to support 700+hp.

I think you'll be fine with what you have though.
Don't recall how much boost you plan to run, but I don't think you need to worry about 500rwhp+ on the dyno just yet.

 

I've got a spare set of fuel rails so that I can start polishing 'em up before I add the A/N fittings. I hate the factory hard lines that cross in front of the intake and right over the thermostat housing bolt.

I was going to just bypass that short hardline mess, but your idea, Travis, of running back to the firewall area sounds much cleaner in theory. Have you already mapped out where the new lines are actually going to run? And were you going to have them coming off the front, like with the factory design or were you going straight from the back of the rail?

I was thinking of pulling out the 9th injector plug and running the fuel pressure guage by the firewall and restoring the factory pressure release valve that I tapped into to install my first AFPR.

I'm still twiddeling my thumbs waiting more than 6 months now for my engine builder/designer to finish my damn ZZ engine. I know he's good and in demand, but half a year is getting close to criminal.

At least my UMI Torque bar/steering brace/driveshaft safety loop is allegedly on it's way so that I can completely gut the old suspension and start laying in all the new heavy duty parts I've been aquiring all year long. This way I can get a tow truck to pull my IROC up to the top of Truckee and do down hill slaloms as practice.....
Nitro

 

That Accel pump, that the one laying around in your car I saw? You are saying I should run that in line with my current pump? I don't understand something, how can it say it supports 725hp but free flows at 70gph when my 255lph is the same as 97gph?

In that case, yes factory steel line at 3/8 into a -8an hose to regulator.

Looks fine and all, but to rely on 16+volts to support 700+hp? I would feel safer running a super-pump to take care of my fuel needs at a more normal 12-13volts.
I am setup to run 13-15lbs/boost with methanol but with the current fuel restriction I will be running the stock pulley it looks like for a little bit lol.

All my lines are done now. both the main and return line run vertical with the firewall about 1foot and right into my FPR. and from there, I have two lines running horizontal from the FPR, one, to each side of the engine.

 

I did my shopping, I really like the Aeromotive Eliminator. Supports plenty of power and it can go in tank!
Now thats something I want to do. Later...

 

why not for a change have somebody that nkows what he's doing give you a hand?

 

Yeah, those ratings don't make much sense. I do like the aeromotive pump and the fact that it is submersible elminates a lot of the pump logevity issues I encountered. I don't know how easy it would be to mount that pump. We might go find a stock junk tank and dissect it to see what to possible.

 

There are 3.78 liters in a gallon. So I think that makes your 255lph pump the equivalent of 66gph or so. Plus two pumps inline can give more fuel volume than one by itself.

Your current pump most likely won't support 700+ hp either without either a second pump inline, a second pump in parallel, or some other fuel source (meth, etc). There is one guy in the power adder forums running a single 255lph pump on a turbocharged small block making close to 700 crank hp but he has a Boost-A-Pump, like what Del was talking about.

A forced induction motor will need higher fuel volume at a given power output in comparison with a naturally aspirated motor.

Also, to be clear, I'm not trying to be a **** in any way, I just want to help. I can't imagine running a big blower like an F1 and expect to make 700-800 crank horsepower -- probably an easy amount to make with that big of a compressor -- with a single in-tank pump and 42lb/hr injectors. If it will do it there definitely won't be much margin for error.

 

I admit I don't know anything, but its a hobby and I'm having fun doing it and learning as I go. as for giving me a hand, I handle the assembly portion just fine if thats what you mean.

You are right, I am getting all my numbers all fuked up.
I am running #48 lb injectors, I think would be good, but what do you think of the aeromotive? I don't think your an *** or anything, I do appreciate it, really. Otherwise Iwould get the car running and learn the harder way why I am losing pressure and what not.

 

Where can I learn more about running inline fuel pumps? Can any external inline pump be used as a booster? I need to learn more about this now.

 

Check out Weldon Pumps. They make a pump that will do anything you need. They are expensive but top of the line.

 

700+ dollars is quite expensive heh..

 

This set up will not work. You will not create pressure in the fuel rail if you put the regulator before it. The set-up you're trying to do will work on carbureted engine but not FI. Sit down and think about for a few minutes.

 

I hope so, having it all bolt together isn't the difficult part. I wish you luck

 

The regulator I chose was one of the only ones that would allow me to do it this way. http://www.malloryracing.com/Product...minselection=7

The way I understand it works, fuel comes in the regulator, and in the body of the regulator the fuel runs straight into the outlet ports (to my engine) and once pressure reaches what you set it at, the excess fuel bleeds off in the regulator back to the tank.

Does this not sound like it will work?

Jes, do you see a problem with what I am doing? I know I wasn't born knowing this stuff, but I feel confident everything will come together here just fine. So what if my fuel system is not up to par for what I want? it can be fixed later, The engine can run less boost until then. and I will still run circles around you

 

like i said Trav, you had a lane since 2005...or 6 or whenever the last f*ckin time i saw you was

 

Okay, that regulator should work. That's the one with 4 ports and 1 return. That's what I had on my 74 Celica with the lower pressure rating of course. So your set-up will be: 1 on the those 4 ports will be used as supply/feed, 2 will go to each fuel rails and the last 1 can be used to hook up the fuel pressure gauge, nitrous feed line or even an extra external fuel pump with a switch to turn on when racing with high boost or nitrous. That regulator also acts as a distribution block. Okay... carry on.

 

Ahh see! I am not a complete idiot I just found a picture of a similiar setup on a miniram.. his is a paxton regulator however and is only a 2 port so he had to Y his after the line left the regulator. but you understand. for everyone else:

 

EASY....that's not a miniram. That's an LT1 intake. See that EGR valve?

 

oops.

 

Wow! I'd definitely like to copy that look. Do I have to pay $$$ for a copyright access????

Off hand, should I wait until I know there's an issue with my factory fuel pump before replacing it??? I know this question shows my naivety; but I'm so buried in some of the other project with my IROC that I hadn't bothered to explore yet if my current system is up to working with my 24#SVO's and then with my my new 365hp block that'll go in sometime/someday this calendar year?? Do we really need a tank pump?
I ask this in the middle of Travis's thread at this time because I noticed my fuel tank has been sagging down, making it difficult to put the gas station fuel pump into the filler neck..... Nitro

 

Just run the engine and injectors, you will know if you need a bigger pump when you cant hold pressure under the rpm's

 

One last picture of my fuel lines running to the regulator..

 

Now THIS has been a really Great Thread! Good Photo's, etc. It should work as a 'How To' and get sticky'ed someplace. Now I just gotta figure out why my fuel tank is dropping lower every month.....
Nitro

 

I'm willing to bet that this is a picture of the return side, not the feed side. Both lines go to the regulator and then one line goes back to the tank.