Help launching with new Drag Radials
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Help launching with new Drag Radials
Hey guys, I just got a set of NItto Drag Radials, 245/50/16 for my formula 5.7L and am going to the strip tomorrow to try them. You cannot drive around the water box at this strip so with the old Goodyear GSC tires I was doing a bit of a burnout to get the water and any dirt off. The best 60' time I had til now was 2.09 but most were 2.12 to 2.2. Im hoping to see a big improvement in this just based on what I have felt tonight driving home from the tire store. I jumped on it a little at couple of stop lights and no spinning at all where I would have noticed some before.
What is the best launch procedure. Bigger burnout than before? I guess just jump on it til I see where its going to spin eh? I usually use the brake and bring it up to around 1000rpm, then go. Always before I have had to feather the gas til I get going to avoid spin, then nail it. Any help would be appreciated
What is the best launch procedure. Bigger burnout than before? I guess just jump on it til I see where its going to spin eh? I usually use the brake and bring it up to around 1000rpm, then go. Always before I have had to feather the gas til I get going to avoid spin, then nail it. Any help would be appreciated
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Doing a proper burnout is only part of the procedure. Figuring out the best tire pressure is the other.
Try to do the same amount of burnout each time. Start around 24-28 psi in the tires. Keep dropping the tire pressure until the best 60' is obtained. To do it properly you should be dropping the pressure 1/2 pound at a time.
The race track and the street are 2 different surfaces. Trying to launch off a concrete pad that has rubber buildup on it and no traction compound can be like trying to launch off wet pavement.
If you can't launch without feathering it then you have some serious traction problems and should address that before trying to get a good run. I launch very hard off the line and usually only have traction problems when I shift. Only when the track is real slippery do I ever have to lift and then it's only to straighten the car out then I stab it again.
Try to do the same amount of burnout each time. Start around 24-28 psi in the tires. Keep dropping the tire pressure until the best 60' is obtained. To do it properly you should be dropping the pressure 1/2 pound at a time.
The race track and the street are 2 different surfaces. Trying to launch off a concrete pad that has rubber buildup on it and no traction compound can be like trying to launch off wet pavement.
If you can't launch without feathering it then you have some serious traction problems and should address that before trying to get a good run. I launch very hard off the line and usually only have traction problems when I shift. Only when the track is real slippery do I ever have to lift and then it's only to straighten the car out then I stab it again.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Thanks Stephen, I was hoping you'd see this and answer. What kind of tire pressure guage do you use? The cheapo ones you see at Walmart don't look like they are capable of accurately measuring 1/2 psi. As for feathering, I assume your car is totally set up for drag racing with slicks, special supension mods, etc. My car is completely stock in suspension part, it is a WS6 model though which I guess helps. When I launched on street tires I had to do some serious feathering until a got moving then nailed it. Its got the stock 3.23 gears but the 700r tranny does have a very low first gear from what I understand. I am going to try today with the Nittos and see what I get. If I don't have to feather it at all, Ill be shocked, but should see fantastic decrease in 60' times and I would guess some decrease in ET. I don't know about MPH.
What suspension mods would you suggest for an occassional weekend racer (once per month lets say), assuming I still have spinning problems?
My plan is to do complete exaust from headers, cats, catback. Then intake, runners, Throttle body, runners, intake, then a mild cam and heads. Depending on where Im at then, I might need slicks for the track (I know this is what you usually recommend, but its easier to convince my wife to let me buy Drag Radials when my old tires wore out, than a set of slick when I have a perfectly good set of tires on the back of the car already, haha), and I might need 3.73 gears. What do you think?
Kind of long but thanks for reading
What suspension mods would you suggest for an occassional weekend racer (once per month lets say), assuming I still have spinning problems?
My plan is to do complete exaust from headers, cats, catback. Then intake, runners, Throttle body, runners, intake, then a mild cam and heads. Depending on where Im at then, I might need slicks for the track (I know this is what you usually recommend, but its easier to convince my wife to let me buy Drag Radials when my old tires wore out, than a set of slick when I have a perfectly good set of tires on the back of the car already, haha), and I might need 3.73 gears. What do you think?
Kind of long but thanks for reading
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From: Ocean State, lil Rhody, the biggest littlest state in the union, Rhode Island
Car: 1988 GTA Black/Gray
Engine: Blown 355
Transmission: 700R4
Larry,
If you don't mind me asking, what's a pair of those tires sell for?
If you don't mind me asking, what's a pair of those tires sell for?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
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From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
150 something at Discount Tires here in Houston. Mounted balanced, etc, I think it was $330 or so. Not too bad, but remember they only last for 5000 to 10000 miles from what I hear. My car is not a daily driver, I only take it out to cruise or race on the weekends. If you put these on a daily driver your going to have to buy tires every couple of months which would get expensive. They way I drive this car they should last one or 2 years I think.
By the way, nice icon, or whatever you call those thingies. How did you do that/
By the way, nice icon, or whatever you call those thingies. How did you do that/
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 0
From: Katy, Texas
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 built
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Jesus, I was just reading your car mods, that thing must be a screamer. It's set up just like I am planning to do mine. If you don't mind me asking, what is and estimate of how much $ youve put into that thing?
Hey just a thought, since you got the Supercharger are you going to sell the Accel superram? I am interested if you are
Hey just a thought, since you got the Supercharger are you going to sell the Accel superram? I am interested if you are
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,268
Likes: 170
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
I use 2 different pressure gauges. The most accurate is a digital one. It measures to .5 psi and goes as high as 99 psi. The main one I use at the track is a low pressure gauge. It's quick and easy to use. It has a maximum reading of 15 psi with 1/4 psi increments.
I usually run 10 psi in my Hoosiers.
The "drag radial" type of tires do not have the soft sidewalls like a slick because of the steel belts in them. There's only so much you can drop the pressure down to before the center of the tread starts to lift off the ground.
Suspension mods to do:
Adjustable torque arm.
Aftermarket LCA and panhard bar
Air bags in the rear springs.
LCA relocation brackets.
That's what should be done first. I ran for many years with stock springs and shocks, front and rear. Stay away from heim joints on a daily driver unless you like to hear and feel road noise. Poly bushings will be a better choice.
Get rid of or disconnect the front sway bar if equiped. Get a rear sway bar installed.
I usually run 10 psi in my Hoosiers.
The "drag radial" type of tires do not have the soft sidewalls like a slick because of the steel belts in them. There's only so much you can drop the pressure down to before the center of the tread starts to lift off the ground.
Suspension mods to do:
Adjustable torque arm.
Aftermarket LCA and panhard bar
Air bags in the rear springs.
LCA relocation brackets.
That's what should be done first. I ran for many years with stock springs and shocks, front and rear. Stay away from heim joints on a daily driver unless you like to hear and feel road noise. Poly bushings will be a better choice.
Get rid of or disconnect the front sway bar if equiped. Get a rear sway bar installed.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 416
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From: Ocean State, lil Rhody, the biggest littlest state in the union, Rhode Island
Car: 1988 GTA Black/Gray
Engine: Blown 355
Transmission: 700R4
Larry,
Probably about 10 large plus the 8 I paid for the car. I am keeping the superram, sorry. Got a good deal from Cruzin performance. E-mail Rich over there, he'll hook you up.
I just started it for the first time tonight. Got some gremlins. I need to get some header plugs, burnt a spark plug wire boot. Couple of other don't look happy. Belt for blower is hitting upper hose. I spent all day finding the right belt for the blower because ATI sent the wrong one. I got three to return. Pulled the vacuum line off of regulater to adjust fuel pressure and the frigin' thing broke, BBK, Going to buy a Holley. I also have to find a new place for the horns and secure the battery. I got cam broken in today and timing set ,so it wasn't a total let down. The MAC muffler sounds awesome! I am glad I went with something different. I'm sure it will get louder too!
I'll have to see if I can get a deal through work on those Nittos. We deal with Town Fair tire. I don't know if they carry them. My car is definately not a daily driver, so I don't care about warranty. I just want some traction!
Probably about 10 large plus the 8 I paid for the car. I am keeping the superram, sorry. Got a good deal from Cruzin performance. E-mail Rich over there, he'll hook you up.
I just started it for the first time tonight. Got some gremlins. I need to get some header plugs, burnt a spark plug wire boot. Couple of other don't look happy. Belt for blower is hitting upper hose. I spent all day finding the right belt for the blower because ATI sent the wrong one. I got three to return. Pulled the vacuum line off of regulater to adjust fuel pressure and the frigin' thing broke, BBK, Going to buy a Holley. I also have to find a new place for the horns and secure the battery. I got cam broken in today and timing set ,so it wasn't a total let down. The MAC muffler sounds awesome! I am glad I went with something different. I'm sure it will get louder too!
I'll have to see if I can get a deal through work on those Nittos. We deal with Town Fair tire. I don't know if they carry them. My car is definately not a daily driver, so I don't care about warranty. I just want some traction!
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