1/4 mile tips?
1/4 mile tips?
I was wondering if somone could help me with some ideas to get a faster 1/4 mile time. I know that the only true way to find out is to do several runs and figure out which works best, but I'd like to know what do u think should work out better for me. I have some minor mods, like headers, hollowed cat, flowmaster muffler, burned chip, taylor 8mm wires with bosch platinum +4s, and I'm getting the Ram Air 2 hood and open element put on my 305 TBI automatic in the next few days. I've never run the 1/4 mile before and want to know any suggestions that you guys may do that might be able to help me out. Thanks for the help guys.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Before you can get a "faster" time, you need a "time". 
Standard tips apply: keep weight down, hook-up off the line, reduce resistance to moving forward.
Put more air in the front tires than you normally run on the road, less in the rear. That's trial & error to find out what's best.
A little more base timing advance usually helps. Have the engine cooled off, and warmed back up enough just to have the oil thinned out (vs. stone cold) and the ECM in closed-loop.
Don't do a smokey burn-out. Stay out of the water with street tires - just do a quick spin to the side of the water box to clean crud off the tread. Stall the converter up at the starting line a little under the absolute stall speed. Don't rev the engine past the power band before you shift (5000 if stock cam & heads). Whether you shift manually or let it shift automatically depends upon where it shifts on its own (if right at 5000, let it shift itself).
Those types of things will get it going as fast as possible as it is now. You want to go faster than that? Gears, traction, cam, heads, converter ---- $'s.

Standard tips apply: keep weight down, hook-up off the line, reduce resistance to moving forward.
Put more air in the front tires than you normally run on the road, less in the rear. That's trial & error to find out what's best.
A little more base timing advance usually helps. Have the engine cooled off, and warmed back up enough just to have the oil thinned out (vs. stone cold) and the ECM in closed-loop.
Don't do a smokey burn-out. Stay out of the water with street tires - just do a quick spin to the side of the water box to clean crud off the tread. Stall the converter up at the starting line a little under the absolute stall speed. Don't rev the engine past the power band before you shift (5000 if stock cam & heads). Whether you shift manually or let it shift automatically depends upon where it shifts on its own (if right at 5000, let it shift itself).
Those types of things will get it going as fast as possible as it is now. You want to go faster than that? Gears, traction, cam, heads, converter ---- $'s.
basicly what he said, but i disagree with the tire thing. Fill the rear tires with as much as you would and maybe more. The sidewall on a radial is not ment to do the things a drag tire does. Also, thoes tires are ment to grip with normal air pressure, not less... If you want, you can remove the front sway bar for better weight transfer, and if your gunna let the auto do it, put it in D... Pat, when do you plan to run your car? Im going friday night.. let me know if your gunna be there.
Ok thanks for the help guys. Would it really be wise to keep it in D rather that OD?? Where u gonna head to? Atco? I've actually never been there before with any of my cars, but I used to watch my friend race his Grand National there. I can go on Friday if you are heading up there.
im actualy going to etown, if you want to drive up here it would be cool to hang out. I think there are a lot of people going tomorrow that i know, and i might get my friend do race his truck!. It would be a good idea to race in D cause you build up more line pressure that way... great shifting.
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