I got Santa's sleigh full this year with new chassis parts and engine parts going in. Here is what I got on the way to save some weight...

Flaming River Manual Kit (opposed to my old on with pump removed)
Lexan front and rear window glass with rear fiberglass trunk lid
Tubular K member to help with turbo clearance.
Sparcousa USA speed street seat

Now the engine...

Either 468 or 454 Dart small block (I can save about 2,000 going 454 instead of 468)
Holley stealth Ram ported and POLISHED (that's right Brian), 1300 cfm throttle body

I am running a turbo so the engine won't have enough vaccuum to run power brakes. I don't want nor need power brakes. My question is how did you convert you power to manual brakes. I tried to email you for info but it said you address no longer exists.

Also I was wondering if you could tell me any place that sells kits for me to convert from my power windows to manual windows. Any help would be great from you or anyone else would be much appreciated.

 

There isn't enough difference in wt between the manual and power window setups in the newer Camaro/Firebirds to bother with the hassle of switching over. You will gain more savings by taking the out the door beams.
As far as switching from power to manual brakes, there are a number of options. I used a master cylinder out of a S10 pickup. You will need to shorten the pushrod and it is advised to get the mounting block from Ed Quay to prevent the rod from dropping away if it should pull away from the piston. Delete the proportioning valve as well. This will give you better holding power when staging and if you are keeping the rear drums, switch to a wheel cylinder with a larger piston.
Hope this helps.

 

WHat does running a turbo have to do with the engine's ability to produce vacuum? Cam profile determines how much vacuum an engine produces. There is very little weight reduction in removing the power brake booster. If for some reason you don't produce enough vacuum to run the power brakes, you just need to install an electric vacuum pump from an early 80's GM (Monza, Cavalier etc) that used one for vacuum assist. I converted to manual brakes because I needed the room to work on the engine.

As I've previously stated in other posts, my mail server rejects a lot of mail because of spam. If your return address is @hotmail, @msn, @yahoo to name a few then your e-mail will never reach me. I also block many class A IP blocks from around the world which eliminates all spam from reaching me. I was also having problems replying to @AOL because AOL was rejecting my e-mail because of how my server is set up. I've had a network change recently so I don't know if this is still a problem.

I don't know of any place that sells a kit to convert from power to manual windows. I simply found some manual window doors in the junk yard. I've totally stripped them down now. My Lexan side windows are permanently fixed in the up posotion.

I use an S10 manual master cylinder and I did the similar modifications as mentioned above except I still use my factory 4 wheel disk proportioning valve however my rear brakes are now Ford drum. I have no braking problems. There are a couple of pictures on my web site showing how the master cylinder is mounted and modifications to the brake pedel.

 

The cam profile is so aggressive it won't carry much vaccuum. I think it was like what .714 lift so yeah. The turbo has nothing to do with it other than I need a large cam to take care of the much needed air.

I have rear 12 or 13 inch wilwoods (disc) with a ford 9 inch rearend. I would like to keep the proportioning valve being as I don't want to rebubble flare all my fittings to run my line lock.

Don't care for power brakes. I might do the support beams for doors. I already lightened up alot of weight but got alot more to go.

 

My original power option doors were 105 pounds. When I got the manual window doors I cut out the crash bar and most of the inner door panel. With a sheet of aluminum for an inner panel, the door weighed 70 pounds and still had the roll up windows.

Since then I've removed the glass and window regulator and replaced it with Lexan with a support. I haven't removed the doors to reweigh them but I'm sure there's at least another 10-20 pounds off them now. Fiberglass doors would be the best but they're a little expensive.

At least I don't have a "stocker" and can do those kind of changes

Mod313: I/SA has a 12.60 index. What do you normally run?

 

This season I only got the stocker combo out twice. We were way late getting the class motor ready so I only got it out in Sept and Oct. It ran a best of 11.85 (-.75) in Sept then after NHRA saw fit to hit us 4 hp (48 lbs) I tried a converter change and a couple tuning ideas to the motor and put up the same numbers again in Oct. Most of the season I had to run the bracket motor for seat time. We found a tranny issue at the last event which would explain why the car just won't leave anymore, bigtime drag in the tranny now. We're already starting on a whole new bullet with some new ideas and the tranny goes out tomorrow to get its issues addressed. I'm confident it'll hit -1.x under next year once everything is fixed. Of course we just got another 6 hp (75 lbs) this week which makes our total hits this year 14 hp (168 lbs bringing the new min wt to 3325). This added weight has me thinking of switching up a class to H/SA, 3190 lbs but a harder 12.45 index). It's not as easy as it looks to build a stocker, you need to pay attn to every area of the car most importantly looking at your 60' times. If it doesn't run hard in the first 330' the torque isn't there to pull it the rest of the way.

 

My old engine ran a best of 12.22 that was going up there on a oil smoking car and driving it home. I think my ex fiance sabeotaged it but oh well new one is in the works and she is gone.