on these slips a perfect reaction is .000

first run


R/t......... .341
60.......... 2.261
330........ 6.462
1/8 ....... 9.885
mph....... 71.75
1000...... 12.8
1/4........ 15.334
mph........ 89.3


Second run

R/t......... .072
60.......... 2.138
330........ 6.233
1/8 ....... 9.673
mph....... 72.00
1000...... 12.576
1/4........ 15.100
mph........ 88.71

 

Second run had less wheel spin resulting in the quicker ET.

It also made more HP in the first 1/8 mile but dropped off in the last 1/8 mile based on the MPH.

 

For a first time racer I must say you got a pretty good R/T on that second run. It has been my experience though that on runs where I stick my MPH is slower, and on the runs that I spin, my MPH is faster. That would mean to me that it isn't HP that is making the difference on the MPH, it is how well you stick. Obviously the better you stick, the faster you will reach the finish line, however your MPH will be slightly lower. The more you spin the slower the E.T., but faster MPH. If you look at some sigs on on this site, you will see a best E.T., and a best MPH. You'll notice that the MPH is always on a slower E.T. run with a worse 60ft. And the best E.T. run has better 60ft. and a little lower MPH. Correct me if I'm wrong in this assumption.

 

Chances are when you stick you're bogging down the engine which will decrease the HP. With a higher stall converter, the engine will spool up faster to it's better rpm range and you'll be able to use more HP.

 

Well said, thanks for the clarification Stephen. I know what you mean now.

 

Good. After writing that it just didn't seem right although the meaning was clear.

As a comparison my converter stalls at 5700 on the transbrake. I launch at 4500. Watching the playback tach I can see the converter flash to about 5500 then drop back a couple of hundred rpm as the engine loads up. Theoretically the rpm shouldn't drop below the stall point unless something is wrong. I'm thinking my converter may need to go in for a rebuild. We'll see what happens this season.

 

sorry to barge in here guys. Hey steven, I tried your e-mail and pm but it doesn't seem to be working...... I had a few questions I was wanting to ask you. If you have time can u send me a pm. I hope to see you at the track soon.

 

I don't PM and my e-mail works fine depending on where your's originates from. Don't use web based e-mail to reach me.

 

my car has a manual transmission.. i was worried that i was going to spin the tires too much so i was barely revving it up before i launched. it was also quite cold 40 degrees and cloudy.

i think my second day at the track my times will improve.

any other pointers you have?

 

"Get a gun, shoot yourself in the foot, go home."

No, wait, that's "Memphis Belle" advice...

Gears, traction control, practice. Not necessarily in that order.

 

If his car is an original l69 car then it should have 3.73 gears, and there is a good chance it is posi. Alot of people that ordered the H.O. went all out and got the posi repo of G80

 

Car had 3.73's..did not have posi but i pulled a stock gm unit out of the boneyard..so now it has posi..

i have a hurst short shifter, edelbrock TES headers custom test pipe with built in cutout (instead of cat). and a hooker cat back. aside from all that its stock..

i made one pass with the cutout closed..it was high 15.8...i also launched with much less rpm and spun the tires a lot more.

im going to figure out a way to make the cutout open right after i start (its electric)...

going from nearly bald 235/60/r15 Radial t/a's to 275/50/r15 should help..