guys dont kill me i know this has been beat into the ground. i know how to install it but how do you adapt the stock front lines to a splitter? would you put new ends on it? if so would compression fittings possibly work? the local napa doesnt have much in terms of fittings to choose from. pleeeease help this is all i need to be on my way to the track wed. night and its been over a year. thanks for any help ....aaron

Adaptor fittings are available but you have to search for them. When I finally got rid of the combination valve I also changed all my brake lines to standard lines with double flares instead of the metric bubble flares. I only needed to get adaptor fittings for the S10 master cylinder.

Here is how I did mine. I got a "good" flaring tool, not the one from pep boys, and re-used the master cylinder and proportioning valve fittings. I put them on new lines that I bent and flared and ran to the linelock. Don't worry about wiring in the light that comes with the kit, the brake light will come on as soon as you use it.

thanks guys stephen i think that will be my next move is to rid myself of the combination valve Im currently running a strange mc. how do your brakes work compared to with the valve in place?

lotec hey man that looks really clean too bad i dont still have the stock master cylinder and brake booster in place or else i would have to copy you looks good.

I use a Wilwood adjustable valve mounted beside the drivers seat.

Here's a pic of mine with a manual brake MC:

to eliminate the stock prop valve and connect the lines together:


cut then ends off of both front brake lines.
get some standard tube nuts (not metric)
slip the ends on.
with a METRIC flare tool, do a standard double flare. the reason this MUST be a metric tool, is that the tubing size will allow it to slip in a standard flare tool. the angle of the flare however, is identical.

now that you have a standard double flare end, you can use a easily obtainable double flare T fitting.

heres my line lock/prop valve