This is my current setup (without engine)

3.42 Posi in a 10-bolt, 275/50/15 Nittos, boxed rear suspension with poly bushings.
Pro-Built Street-Strip 700R4 w/Corvette Converter
Alston SFC's.
Car weight is ~3500 with me in it.

New engine.....
6" Rod 383 w/9.5-10-1 Compression
AFR 190's
Comp Cams XE276HR or 282HR with Magnum 1.6RR's and AFR Rev Kit
Holley Stealth Ram w/30lb injectors
1 5/8 shorties (I know, I need bigger) and 3" Flowmaster.

 

get a bigger cam. loose some weight, and for the love of jesus, get some 1-3/4" headers.
If it hooks, I'll guess LOW 12's. Do the above and you should be a solid 11.50 car. What's the stall on your verter.

 

I dont want to go too massive on the cam. The car WILL be on the street afterall.

Lose weight? What are you trying to say?

Converter will probably be leaving to something with a higher stall speed.

 

that cam will be fine... should make power to near 6K rpms and make over 375rwhp if tuned right. pretty much the cam and intake i want to run

corvette converter is like 2200rpms... go with a 3000.

 

What should I do to put it over 400whp?

 

1 3/4 headers would help.

 

I said what I meant. 3500# is heavy. I drive my car on the street all the time w/ less cubes and a bigger cam. You'll have no problem w/ drivability once its tuned. And I stand by MHO about the 282 cam (230\236). It is a good cam. For a 350. For a 383, I think you can go faster w/ something else. And since a different cam is same friggin price, why not go faster? Furthermore, the HSR likes to peak higher than 6k.

 

3500 with ALL 200LBS OF ME IN IT.

I'm also going to put 1 3/4" longtubes with dual electric cutouts on it.

 

a bigger cam will peak near 6K rpms on that 383. i'm not sure what rotating assembly he has in there, but i wouldnt want to run near 500hp at above 6K rpms on a motor with cast internals.

 

Fully Forged.

 

The car doesn't drive itself. So a 3500# race weight is still heavy. There are a number of ways to get weight out of a car and have it still look stock, but from the sound of it, I think a bigger cam will give you more of what your looking for. Also 3000 or higher stall. That number isn't as scary as it sounds. I've driven a 4000 stall on the street before, autos are easy.

 

An LS1


I would seriously consider a larger converter with that setup, Like a street fighter of such. Mine is very tight on the street. And if you just lock soon as you get in second, there is no slip at all.

My experience, Go bigger than you think you need! Unless you are positive about your goals... As I have bought many parts 3 times as my goals increased.
For instance, don't buy a 52mm TB, I would go straight for the 58..

As now I have bought both, and want a mono blade. If you have bigger goals in the future, go with afr 220s. That would actually make a killer street machine, Great MPH, and killing some low end... And if you want more in the future, its just a cam swap. But if you are sure of what you want, the 190/195 will be and are great - as mine got me in the 10s. But now I wish I had gotten more.

Another for instance, if you are buying new rods, pistons, and cam, Why not go 4" with a 396 for about the same price. Well actually 383s are so common, it may be a good bit cheaper - but I would shop around.

I have a mustang friend who I thought way over headed his 331, with some 195s I think (which are big for small cube ford heads) that flow 320s. Car runs and drives great with his milder cam and trapped 122, Now he is ready for a cam swap.

My point you may raise your peak TQ and make the car more peaky - but it will have more, make great numbers for the dyno

You seem to like dart heads, I have a pocket ported set that could be sold.


Also on that note, AFR is comming out with redesigned heads in a few months. That are supposed to be much better.

I feel pretty good, I asked the AFR tech what he thinks my combo should run, he said mid to lower 11's.. I told him what I do and he asked for a testimonial for the website and some pics.
That was pretty flattering, now I am scared to change it.

 

*Looks at a set of AFR 190's sitting next to the computer in the box*

Dart heads arent needed.

 

Ohh cool!
A new computer?

 

lol.

 

yank 2800

 

 

Turns out, the heads are CNC-Ported 195's.