Cant hook on ET STREETS on my L98
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
Cant hook on ET STREETS on my L98
i was soo excited tonight.... finally some runs with my ET streets. they are used tires tho, but still plenty of tire tread left. rubber felt soft and looked great.
I even took off my front sway bar but left the wonderbar. i'm painting the swaybar to match the rest of the suspension
i did my usual car setup... dropped the front shock rate to softest settin
rears this time i set at 3/5 on the shocks with 5 being stiffest. street tires for me liked 4. i had 1.88 to 1.94 60's on a good day on street tires
tried the tires at 18psi... seemed to hook but i was rewarded with 1.92 60 foot.. there probly was some spin.
tried 16 psi, then 14, then 12 twice as the night got cooler. all started to hook then spin then hook. 60's were 1.91-1.93. not much better than my street tires
my topend as expected was killed off abit. runs for me were 13.94, 13.96 twice, 13.99 and 14.04. actually street tire times
my suspension is eibach prokit springs, with tokico adjustable shocks. panhard bar, lower control arms from spohn with brackets... set in bottom most hole. stock rear sway bar.
i stalled the car up on the line, as much as i could before it pushed out. one run i had the car stalled lower and just let it flash. most full stalled runs were about 2400-2500rpms or so. the flash was more like 2000rpm.
i think something is wrong with my suspension/chasis... its just not allowing the tires to hook
or could it be i have bad rubber on these et streets??
I even took off my front sway bar but left the wonderbar. i'm painting the swaybar to match the rest of the suspension
i did my usual car setup... dropped the front shock rate to softest settin
rears this time i set at 3/5 on the shocks with 5 being stiffest. street tires for me liked 4. i had 1.88 to 1.94 60's on a good day on street tires
tried the tires at 18psi... seemed to hook but i was rewarded with 1.92 60 foot.. there probly was some spin.
tried 16 psi, then 14, then 12 twice as the night got cooler. all started to hook then spin then hook. 60's were 1.91-1.93. not much better than my street tires
my topend as expected was killed off abit. runs for me were 13.94, 13.96 twice, 13.99 and 14.04. actually street tire times
my suspension is eibach prokit springs, with tokico adjustable shocks. panhard bar, lower control arms from spohn with brackets... set in bottom most hole. stock rear sway bar.
i stalled the car up on the line, as much as i could before it pushed out. one run i had the car stalled lower and just let it flash. most full stalled runs were about 2400-2500rpms or so. the flash was more like 2000rpm.
i think something is wrong with my suspension/chasis... its just not allowing the tires to hook
or could it be i have bad rubber on these et streets??
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
How much of a burnout did you do? I know if I don't get a good burnout, my 60 foots are even worse than they usually are. Plus the back end slides around.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
my burnouts were pretty good i think. i smoked them thru 2nd gear and tried to carry it out. but my car sometimes started gettin sideways on me and i had to get off it so the burnout wasnt as long as i wanted. even so, the burnouts i thought were decent hooked about the same as the ones i thought were not so decent.
should i really try a much longer burnout? i'm not sure how long to heat these things.
my car felt VERY stable tho down the track. even on the street with 18psi in the tires, it rides nice. no sloppy rear end. even with 12psi in the tires, they look pretty full and thick.
should i really try a much longer burnout? i'm not sure how long to heat these things.
my car felt VERY stable tho down the track. even on the street with 18psi in the tires, it rides nice. no sloppy rear end. even with 12psi in the tires, they look pretty full and thick.
My first time on ET Streets, was no better. I was getting slower 60s than I was used to with the BFG drag radials. I would recommend doing a GOOD burnout for the first out each time. Then the rest of the burnouts on that day, I would do a little better than a "light" burn out, just to put some heat in the tire, and to clean em off. Dont fret, the 60s will get better. Mine did. They started to really improve, the next two times at the track. BTW, keep playin with the pressure too.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 430
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
alright sounds good thanks. i think i'm gonna try and do a longer burnout. the weather was very hot and track prep sucks. i knew my et's werent gonna be the best the car could run, but i figured i would see some idea of what it could do. i figured i would be in the low 1.8's 60 foots.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
9 bolts are normally a bit stronger than the 10bolts, but i've been 1.649 to the 60'. 87 T/A said he's been 1.38!
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 430
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
9 bolts are normally a bit stronger than the 10bolts, but i've been 1.649 to the 60'. 87 T/A said he's been 1.38!
but these launches are not anywhere near violent enough to break a 9 bolt
Just takes time, track prep would of be nice as well.
It took me 2 runs to get my drag radials workin for me. And now I do a good burnout and run the tires pressure around 20-22. Also I have been goig around the water and backing into it. try to keep the front tires as dry as possible.

I think thats one of my 1.7 60 foots.
It took me 2 runs to get my drag radials workin for me. And now I do a good burnout and run the tires pressure around 20-22. Also I have been goig around the water and backing into it. try to keep the front tires as dry as possible.

I think thats one of my 1.7 60 foots.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Streamwood, IL
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: TPI 5.7 L
Transmission: 4L60 w/Vigilante 2,400 Stall
Axle/Gears: Girdled 10 bolt/3.23's
Track prep can be huge! My best 60ft. with the Vigilante and 315/35/17 Nitto DR's is a crappy 1.83. This is at a track where they think good prep means a push broom and a few sprays of VHT from one of those hand held pump pesticide sprayers every 3-4 rounds. I might actually run a decent time if I ever get my butt out to Norwalk. The down side is I'll probably only get to make one pass.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
This is at a track where they think good prep means a push broom and a few sprays of VHT from one of those hand held pump pesticide sprayers every 3-4 rounds.
alright guys you have me feelin alot better. i was gettin to the point after 5 runs that it wasnt ment for me to beable to launch hard. lol i'll try to change up a few things based on what everyone has been tellin me
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
Remember, your cutting these times in the middle of the summer, less dense air "doesn't give you as much power or torque"
I would suggest raising the pressure just a little bit. Most guys only run like 14-15 on slicks, a drag radial should be best around 24
I would suggest raising the pressure just a little bit. Most guys only run like 14-15 on slicks, a drag radial should be best around 24
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 430
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
my 60's been pretty consistant no matter the weather... mainly track prep difference. some nights have been better than others. weather starts showin up once i get on out past first gear... LOL
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
Well when the track is hot, tires are stick, but you don't mph as much.
When the track is cold, you don't hook as well, but you mph more. It's wierd. I think you should say screw it and run slicks. have you swapped back to the 2.77s?
When the track is cold, you don't hook as well, but you mph more. It's wierd. I think you should say screw it and run slicks. have you swapped back to the 2.77s?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
nope, i dont want 2.77s anymore. lol i want 3.42's that are in my 4th rear in the garage, and i want 17x11 grand sport Zr1's
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
put in a set of lca relocation brackets and go to town my friend! your not making enough power to hurt that rearend.
just fyi guys, the lca relocation brackets are designed as a suspension tuning tool, not the mircale mod. they just happen to work really really well in my application. there are a few people who hook up better with them in the stock setting. make a few passes once you've got them on the car and see which setting the car likes the best. you'll know by the consistancy (or lack thereof) in your 60' times and which produces the best 60' times consistantly.
just fyi guys, the lca relocation brackets are designed as a suspension tuning tool, not the mircale mod. they just happen to work really really well in my application. there are a few people who hook up better with them in the stock setting. make a few passes once you've got them on the car and see which setting the car likes the best. you'll know by the consistancy (or lack thereof) in your 60' times and which produces the best 60' times consistantly.
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
sounds like your rearend is bottoming out on the snubbers, if it hooks then spins..
Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
hey sounds sorta like my track... lol
alright guys you have me feelin alot better. i was gettin to the point after 5 runs that it wasnt ment for me to beable to launch hard. lol i'll try to change up a few things based on what everyone has been tellin me
alright guys you have me feelin alot better. i was gettin to the point after 5 runs that it wasnt ment for me to beable to launch hard. lol i'll try to change up a few things based on what everyone has been tellin me
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
Originally Posted by Tony Walch
sounds like your rearend is bottoming out on the snubbers, if it hooks then spins..
I have ordered all my suspension pieces from UMI and I have LCA's, LCA brackets, Adj.Panhard bar, Wonderbar and SFC's. Mix that with the Eibach sportlines and new shocks and struts (and bushings throughout) my suspension is almost complete. Would I be able to run the DR's with that?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 430
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
you should beable to run drag radials on that no problem
eibach prokit i guess isnt the best thing to drag race on, with 700+ lb front springs and progressive 108-170lb rears
as hard as i could get before the car started pushin thru. i'm gonna try alot lower and flash it more
could be with the shocks set so light on the rear... i am gonna try stiffenin them up abit. i have the LCA's on the bottom most hole. i might keep it that way or try next settin up to make it like factory--parrallel to the ground.
eibach prokit i guess isnt the best thing to drag race on, with 700+ lb front springs and progressive 108-170lb rears
How hard are you against the converter when you launch?
sounds like your rearend is bottoming out on the snubbers, if it hooks then spins
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
Originally Posted by Steve383
I have ordered all my suspension pieces from UMI and I have LCA's, LCA brackets, Adj.Panhard bar, Wonderbar and SFC's. Mix that with the Eibach sportlines and new shocks and struts (and bushings throughout) my suspension is almost complete. Would I be able to run the DR's with that?
the straightline performance will be compromised with the sportlines. if you could get away with some ws6 or iroc springs, that would probably the best as far as trying to get good handling and good launching at the track.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,644
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From: Long Island New York
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
what do you guys think is the best air pressure for BF Drag Radials. I'm running my car at the GMHTP Shootout on 8/1.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
18-20psi is what i've gotten the best results at with my m/t's...though the m/t drag radial is a superior tire. you'll probably just have to play with it some...though i'd start at 20psi. since your looking for the absolute fastest pass you can get, you'll want as much pressure in the tire as possible to keep rolling reistance down.
I'd have better launchs with my stock springs? Hmm...well I want a car thats both strip/street so the handling thing is a must. I'll just take whatever I get, not picky
You know my engine setup right? I'll be getting a 2800 stall along with the trans being beefed too, should help out alot. Still needs gears though...
You know my engine setup right? I'll be getting a 2800 stall along with the trans being beefed too, should help out alot. Still needs gears though...
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
yeah, i think that sticking with the stock springs would be the best bet...if you can sacrifice a little handling and put some stock v6 springs in it, that would be great for straighline performance...but would probably not do what you want for handling.
did you put your motor back together without replacing that one messed up piston?
did you put your motor back together without replacing that one messed up piston?
Last edited by mw66nova; Jun 24, 2006 at 04:16 PM.
I'm not keeping this motor and kinda wanted to frag it, lol! But I have the 350 on the stand-by if the 305 decides to die. It's not bad really, only a small portion is missing. I know it's not the best thing to do (build motor with bruck piston) but I don't really care
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
i just don't want to see it hurt those cylinder heads you just rebuilt...unless they don't matter either...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 430
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
What converter do you have? Im surprised no one has asked this yet.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 430
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
i have had no complaints on this converter. i love it. i just wonder if i should have stuck with my original idea to try and get 2600stall instead of 2800. hurt alittle less on the topend i suppose. but overall, i'm happy with it.
looks like rain this wednesday....scattered showers so i'll see how the weather goes. i plan to race it again.
looks like rain this wednesday....scattered showers so i'll see how the weather goes. i plan to race it again.
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Speaking of converters, I contacted Edge Racing about getting a converter from them. They recommended an STR of 2 or near 2? When I was looking up wtf STR ment, a page was saying that most stock converters are around the 1.9 to 1.95 range. So I would have thought that the number for my planned converter would be a little higher? I asked for a stall speed of 3500 to 3800.
edit, did some more reading and think I understand it now lol
edit, did some more reading and think I understand it now lol
Last edited by EvilCartman; Jun 27, 2006 at 01:21 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 430
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
yeah i'm not sure on all that stall stuff myself.
i do know i have some exhaust leaks around the header gasket as my bolts came loose again... so i tightened them all up again and it seemed to go away. more than likely they were loose when i went to the track last wednesday. so i might have lost abit of power there.
now i gotta grind abit off the header flange and or front a-arm since the two are touchin each other right now and it makes a awful noise.
i do know i have some exhaust leaks around the header gasket as my bolts came loose again... so i tightened them all up again and it seemed to go away. more than likely they were loose when i went to the track last wednesday. so i might have lost abit of power there.
now i gotta grind abit off the header flange and or front a-arm since the two are touchin each other right now and it makes a awful noise.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,327
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI - SLP Runners, AFPR, MSD Goodies
Transmission: 700R4 - Shift Kit, Corvette Servo
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt, 3.27s
I think it's time to invest in some locking header bolts. Have you done any induction mods? I bet some SLP runners and a port matched plenum would give you 2-3 more mph in the 1/4. The runners themselves in stock form picked up about 1 mph and .1 et, and when I port matched them with a gutted box and K&Ns, i picked up 2 more mph and another .1-.2 et. AFPR would help also, mine runs best around 44 psi, Most like it around 48. Once you get those D.R.'s to hook, take a look at those mods. keep us updated 89, or throw me a pm if you wanna talk, good luck.
Now, I'm confused! Are we talking ETstreet slicks, or ETstreet drag radials. I thought we were talking slicks. If we were not talking about the slick style, all of my posts were referring to the ETstreet slicks, and not the radials. I have never used the radials. Only BFG radials.
Maybe M/T should have given them (radials), a different name. Everytime someone mentions ET streets, I think of the origional ET street.
Maybe M/T should have given them (radials), a different name. Everytime someone mentions ET streets, I think of the origional ET street.
Last edited by brutalform; Jun 28, 2006 at 10:29 AM.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
he's running the original ET Streets. look at the pics of his car in his other thread about getting the tires...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 430
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
nope, not radials... DOT approved slick... the original ET street. car feels pretty strong today, even with the humidity and heat....i just finished making a home made ram air from the foglights, and i believe it really helps the car breath. i want to run it today but i dont think i'm gonna. we'll see.
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A bit different than radials, you will get used to the biased ply ET streets.

